Crochet Design – Page 2

Skinny Post Stitch Ribbing

July 16, 2021July 16, 2021Crochet, Crochet Design, Crochet How-Tos, How Tos, Online, PatternLeave a Comment

It has been super hot even here in Colorado, so I am looking for small projects to work on and hats are one of my favorites. I’m teaching a class next week “Spiraling Stripes Hat” that is a great way to add stripes to your hats without any seams. You can still register for this class until 8 a.m. Central time this Sunday, July 18, 2021.

**Click here to Register for this Class**

I like the look of ribbed brims in knit hats, but since I crochet much faster than I knit, I wanted a version for when I was wielding my hook. After a lot of experimenting over the past 15 years I have settled on using “skinny” half double crochet post stitches as my all time favorite method. You will see this ribbing in a lot of my hat patterns (like the Spiraling Stripes Hat).

For those of you that have never worked post stitches, their name comes from the fact that they are worked around the “post” of a stitch instead of under the top 2 strands of a stitch. This gives them much more of a textured look and changes how the fabric behaves.

With a taller stitch like the double crochet it is quite easy to see the “post” of the stitch and to work around the center of this post when working post stitches. For a stitch like the Half Double or Single crochet that becomes a bit more fiddly to find.

The first time I tried using post stitches for my ribbing I decided to do what I call “skinny” post stitches. Instead of working down into the stitch, I use the very top of the post just under the “v” that makes the top of the stitch (the bit of brown yarn the arrow is pointing to in the photograph above). This creates a slimmer looking stitch because the base of the post stitch isn’t stretched around the thickest part of the other stitch.

By the way this tutorial is showing the post stitches and finished work for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed and crochet with your hook in the left-hand, then reverse what I’m doing here.

For the ribbing affect I alternate my post stitches, so I needed an even number of stitches. I generally start with a FPhdc, and end the round with a BPhdc. The first round of ribbing is the trickiest.

Once you have finished that round it just becomes a matter of working FP stitches into FP stitches and BP into BP. In the photo above you can see both the appearance of the ribbing from the front and back.

For a Front Post half double crochet (FPhdc): Insert the hook from front to back to the right of the post you want to work around, then bring the hook from the back to the front under the top of the stitch to the left of the post (indicated by arrow in photo above). Yarn over and pull up a loop thru all the stitches, yarn over and complete your hdc. The post of this new stitch will be sitting on the front of your fabric.

For a Back Post half double crochet (BPhdc): Insert the hook from back to front to the right of the post you want to work around, then bring the hook from the front to the back under the top of the stitch for the left of the post (indicated by arrow in photo above).

Yarn over and pull up a loop thru all the stitches, yarn over and complete your hdc. The post of this new stitch will be sitting on the back of your fabric.

This is how I make my “skinny” front post and back post half double crochet stitches. You can modify this technique with any crochet stitch, but the half double crochet is my favorite. Practice working your skinny post stitches with this quick and easy headband pattern.

Summer Stretch Headband

Skill level: Intermediate

Special Stitches

Materials:

Yarn – Berroco “Ultra Wool” worsted weight, 100% superwash wool, 219 yds/200 m, 3.5 oz/100 g

Color A – #3346, Color B – #3312, Color C – #3315

Hook – H (5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions – yarn/tapestry needle

Gauge: 8 FSC = 2”

Special Stitches/Abbreviations:

fsc (Foundation Single Crochet)

FPhdc (Skinny Front Post Half Double Crochet) – The post stitch is worked under the top 2 strands of the stitch. YO, insert hook into top of previous st from front to back, then bring hook from back to front thru top of next st (this is working around post of st), YO, pull up a loop thru both st tops, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

BPhdc (Back Post Half Double Crochet) – The post stitch is worked under the top 2 strands of the stitch. YO, insert hook into top of previous st from back to front, then bring hook from front to back thru top of next st (this is working around post of st), YO, pull up a loop thru both st tops, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.

Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.

Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.

PM (Place Marker)

Pattern Notes:

Headband is worked in a 1×1 rib using skinny front and back post half double crochet stitches, then flower is worked in 2 parts and sewn to headband.

Instructions

Headband

Rnd 1: With Color A, crochet 96 fsc, without twisting join with a sl st in first fsc.(96 fsc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, FPhdc around post of first st, [BPhdc around post of next st, FPhdc around post of next st] 47 times, BPhdc around post of last st and base of beginning ch-2, sl st to top of first FPhdc. (48 FPhdc, 48 BPhdc)

Rnds 3 & 4: Repeat Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 96 sts around, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. (96 sc)

Use beginning tail to close gap at beginning of Rnd 1, weave in all loose ends.

Flower 1

Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.

Flower 2

Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 2, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 2, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, dc, Exdc, picot, Exdc, dc, sc) in ch-2 sp, skip next st, sl st in ch-1 sp, skip to next ch-2 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning sc of Rnd. Fasten off

Finishing

Weave in tails on flowers, then use remaining tails to sew Flower 1 to Flower 2, then both flowers on headband. Best spot to sew them is over joining seam. When weaving in ends follow the “columns” of your post stitches so you don’t lose the stretchiness of your ribbing.

LaJolla Swoncho

June 25, 2021June 24, 2021"I Like Crochet", Crochet Design, Magazine2 Comments

For those of you that haven’t seen it yet, my latest design for the online crochet magazine “I Like Crochet” is available in their June 2021 issue. In fact it is the design on the cover of this issue. This is the “La Jolla Swoncho” made with King Cole Yarns “Finesse” a lovely blend of cotton and silk for the perfect summer layer.

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

I loved designing this swoncho, the lace work is interesting yet simple enough that you’ll have the repeats memorized quickly. The shaping is a more classic poncho with the sleeves worked off the bottom edge. This makes for a flowing fit that works for many body types.

You can find the pattern at the “I Like Crochet” website here.

Ready for Summer Crocheting?

April 27, 2021May 7, 2021Crochet Design, Crochet World, Magazine7 Comments

I know I’m really ready for the warmer season to be here. But what does that mean for crocheting?

Definitely isn’t the time for crocheting big afghans, fortunately the June 2021 issue of Crochet World Magazine has some great ideas for summer crocheting.

Included in this issue is my “Shells by the Sea Wrap” design. This design uses solid and lacy shell stitches to create a fun wrap that can be tied around your hips as a swimsuit cover-up, or wrapped around your shoulders when the air-conditioning is a little too chilly.

I love Universal Yarns “Bamboo Pop” for this wrap. It is a great weight yarn that combines bamboo rayon and cotton for terrific stitch definition and breathable drape. The contrast between the 2 fibers gives a lovely subtle light play between the matte and shiny.

Update May 7, 2021: I discovered there was a misprint in the magazine in Row 1 of the Body of the Wrap. The instructions for the row say: “Row 1: Turn to back of work along flat side of Foundation Strip,”
It should say: “Row 1: Turn to work back along flat side of Foundation Strip,”

What’s in the Crochet for Me Lace Bundle?

April 19, 2021April 18, 2021Crochet Design, Indie publication, Special OffersLeave a Comment

Many folks have asked me what patterns are in the Crochet for Me Lace Bundle? So I decided to make a blog post showing you photos of all the other designs. Remember this offer goes away at 11:59 PM Eastern time on Wednesday, April 21.

This is a limited time offer and the clock is counting down to 11:59 PM Eastern time on April 21, so act now and welcome the new season with a gorgeous, lacy project!

Buy Your Crochet for Me Lace Bundle NOW!

For those of you wondering how to purchase the Knit for Me Lace Bundle as well. When you click on the link above and put the Crochet for Me Lace Bundle in your cart, you will see the option to add the Knit Bundle for a discounted price. If you are only interested in purchasing the Knit for Me Lace Bundle use the link below.

Buy Your Knit for Me Lace Bundle NOW!

Springtime Crocheting!

April 16, 2021April 17, 2021Crochet Design, M2H Designs Ravelry Shop, Paid Pattern Links, Special OffersLeave a Comment

Well it might not look like it at my house, but Spring has sprung. Soon the warmer weather will find us, even up here on the mountain, and when it does I’ll be looking for cool projects to work on. So my thoughts turn to lace! Lace to make – challenging stitches, airy patterns, gorgeous lightweight yarns – and lace to wear – the perfect items to get me from Spring to Summer or Summer to Fall.

In honor of Spring I joined 34 of my crochet designer colleagues and created the Crochet for Me Lace Bundle. It’s chock full of 46 individual patterns, never before offered in a bundle or for free, that will give you a wide range of patterns that will suit your lacy fancy.

All sorts of patterns are included from hats and headbands, to tees and shawls, to a dress and jewelry, and even a lacy pillow for your lounging pleasure.

I’ve contributed 2 never before released patterns to this gorgeous lace collection: Arrows Lace Wrap and Lace is the Point Cowl.

For the Arrows Lace Wrap I wanted to explore this fun 4 Row lace repeat. I used a central foundation with the wrap worked off each side and ending with an elaborate pointed border. The beginning and end of each row finishes the edge as you go, so once you are done all you have to do is block and weave in a few ends. This pattern is also available in my Ravelry Shop for $5.99.

For the Lace is the Point Cowl I was having some fun with the gorgeous “Folio” yarn from Berroco. The drape and soft fluffy feel of this yarn make it perfect for a cozy lacy layer for a cowl that can see you into the cooler weather. It takes less than 1 ball of yarn, so it’s a great project to splurge on yourself with. This pattern is also available in my Ravelry Shop for $4.99.

You get all 46 patterns featured in this bundle for only $25. That’s less than 55 cents per pattern! But the offer is only available through April 21, 2021, 11:59 PM Eastern, and it absolutely will not be extended nor repeated.

Click here to purchase your Bundle before time runs out!

If you purchased these patterns individually they would cost you well over $200. And by buying from a coalition of designers like this instead of a huge publisher, you know that your money is going where it’s needed – into the pockets of your favorite designers so they can keep on creating the patterns you love to make.

BUY NOW

If all of that is not enough to convince you you need this bundle here’s one more great thing. Once you gain access to the patterns you ALSO get a file with extra discount codes for additional products offered by some of our amazing designer friends. And there’s a 15 day money back guarantee so you have absolutely nothing to lose.

For those of my readers that also love to knit there is a Knit for Me Lace Bundle too! The Knit for Me Lace Bundle has 33 patterns for only $17. That’s less than 52 cents per pattern. If you purchased these patterns individually they would cost you well over $170. But the offer is only available through April 21, 2021, 11:59 PM Eastern, and it absolutely will not be extended nor repeated.

If you purchase both bundles together you get an even better discount.

Purchase your Crochet for Me Lace Bundle by clicking here: BUY Crochet for Me NOW .
Purchase your Knit for Me Lace Bundle by clicking her: BUY Knit for Me NOW.

So support the community that you love, rejoice in the fact that you are a clever bargain hunter, then put your feet up and crochet (or knit) something light and lacy as you watch the flowers bloom! Enjoy all of these things – and the lovely Spring weather – while they last.

Finding Peace with Crochet

December 18, 2020December 18, 2020Crochet, Crochet Design, M2H Designs Ravelry Shop, Pattern11 Comments

2020 has been a year of loss for so many of us. In my life this year I have lost 4 loved ones; my friend Cyndy in July, my friend Bonnie in September, my mother in October and just last week my friend Amy. Cancer took my 3 friends and Covid19 my mother. So this holiday season I am really focusing on making it about slowing down and connecting with loved ones as well as appreciating the things that are a comfort to me.

I decided I wanted to add some ornaments to our tree this year to remember not only the 4 loved ones I lost in 2020, but so many others that have gone before. I created an angel ornament design that I want to share with you today it is available for free here on the blog, or if you prefer an Ad free Stitch chart version you can purchase it in my Ravelry Shop. This is an easy intermediate crochet project that doesn’t take a lot of time or yarn to crochet.

It does take some attention to the work to follow, and that is the Peace part of this post. Crochet can be a wonderful way to meditate or even pray. The focus you need for this project means that you take a little break from what ever stresses are on your shoulders. Carving out that small space for peace in your life can be a total sanity saver, something I think we can all use after the intensity of 2020.

Memory Angel Ornament

Skill level: Intermediate [Stitches Used: Chain (ch), Slip Stitch (sl st), Single Crochet (sc), Double Crochet (dc), Extended Double Crochet (ExDc), Treble Crochet (Tr)]

Finished Size: 4.5” tall and wide

Materials:

Yarn

Approximately 19 yards / 10g worsted weight yarn.

Pictured sample used Red Heart “With Love” worsted weight, 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yd/338 m)

Hook H / 5 mm or size to get firm fabric with your yarn.

Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, 8 pound nylon monofilament,

Gauge First 2 rounds of Body = 2.5” across diameter.

Special Stitches or Abbreviations:

(ExDc)Extended Double Crochet: YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, (YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times.

(RS) Right Side

(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

Pattern Notes:

Angel is worked in 2 parts. The body and head are worked in one piece, the wings are worked separately and sewn onto the back of the body.

Instructions:

Body & Head

Rnd 1 (RS): Start with an adjustable slip knot, Ch 4 {counts as center and first dc of Rnd}, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, slip st to top of beginning ch. [12 dc]

Rnd 2: Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, turn, 2 dc in next 11 sts, dc in same st as join from Rnd 1, slip st to top of beginning ch. [24 dc]

Rnd 3 (RS): Ch 3, turn, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) 2 times, 2 dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next 7 sts, (1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) 2 times, (sl st, *ch 2, dc, 3 ExDc, dc, ch 2, sl st) in top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off with 10 inch long tail.

Instructions for head begin at * to make head in different color change color at *. Pull up loop of new color thru sl st before *, use body color for long tail at *.

Weave in beginning tail of body. Use ending tail of body to sew the indicated 7 stitches of body on either side of head together with a whip stitch, secure end of tail and fasten off excess.

Wings

Row 1: Start with an adjustable slip knot leaving an 8 inch long tail, ch 4, {counts as ceter and first dc of Row} 6 dc in 4th ch from hook. [7 dc]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc of Row}, turn, dc in first st, 2 dc in next 6 sts. [14 dc]

Row 3: Ch 4 {counts as first Tr of Row}, turn, Tr in first st, 2 Tr in next 2 sts, Tr in next st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next 2 sts, Tr in next st, 2 Tr in next 3 sts. [14 Tr, 10 dc]

Row 4 – Border (RS): Ch 1, turn, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, ch 1, working along ends of rows, sc in end of sc border, 3 sc in end of Tr row, 2 sc in end of each dc row, 3 sc in end of Tr row, sc in beginning of border row. Fasten off with 10 inch tail. [48 sc]

Weaving ending tail 2nd time thru base of last 16 border sts.

Weave ending tail of wing thru wrong side of base of last 16 sc of border in both directions to stiffen top edge of wing, or crochet over a piece of floral wire when making the last 16 sc of border to make wings posable.

Weave beginning tail of wing to secure opening at base of Row 1, Do Not cut off tail .

Assembly

Place wings RS down on back of Body just below head and using remainder of wings beginning tail to sew down center of wing to secure to body piece.

Hanger options: Use nylon monofilament or ribbon thru center st of head as hanger for ornament, or weave remaining tails after sewing on wings up thru center stitch of head and tie for hanger.

Optional: Use a loop of yarn to hang a crystal or charm inside the lower opening of the body like a clapper on a bell.

You can open up the body of your angel and fold the wings back to create a more 3D style angel, or flatten the body and wings for a more 2D style angel.

Pebbled Star Afghan Square

October 13, 2020October 15, 2020Crochet, Crochet Design, Pattern3 Comments

Oh wow! The past couple of weeks have been really crazy for me, I’ll share more about that later. The question right now is how did we get to October and my birthday again?! That means it is time for a fun pattern as a gift to all my dear readers to celebrate. This pattern is available free to all of you here on my blog, but if you would prefer a PDF version with stitch charts, is available for purchase in my Ravelry Shop.

I’m really happy with this afghan square, I had a lot of fun changing directions with the center square becoming a diamond shape, as well as the fun textures of the little clusters and surface single crochet. This square is #21 in the Moogly 2020 Afghan CAL, you can find the other gorgeous squares designed by lots of my other crochet blogging friends.

Tamara’s version of my square crocheted in gorgeous purples.

Pebbled Star Afghan Square

Skill level: Intermediate

Finished Size: 12” square

Materials:

Yarn – Worsted weight yarn in 4 colors : Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

Color A: #1401 Pewter
Color B: #1805 Bluebell
Color C: #1969 Wintergreen
Color D: #1101 Eggshell

Hook – J / 6mm

Notions – Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge: First 7 rounds of pattern = 4” across square

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
(PM) Place Marker
(Cl) 3 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.
(Fan) Fan Stitch: [(dc, ch 1) 3 times, dc] in indicated place.
(sl st loosely) Loose slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.
(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
(sc2tog) Single Crochet 2 together: Insert hook in first st, YO, pull up a loop, insert hook in second st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
(FPsc) Front Post Single Crochet: These are the surface single crochets worked around the post of the single crochets in Rnds 11 and 15.

Pattern Notes:

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.
First 2 rounds are worked without turning, then Rounds 3-8 are worked in turned rounds. Round 9 will be joined and worked in same direction as Round 8. Rounds 10 – 15 are worked in turned rounds. Rounds 16-19 are worked without turning. It is important that Cluster stitch rounds are worked as wrong side rounds to be sure that they “pop” to the right side of the square.
Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
Stitch counts at the end of each round and row are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round or row.
When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches.
Surface crochet embellishment will be worked after square is finished. When working surface crochet stitches be sure to keep tension loose so that stitches sit squarely on the surface.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with Color A. Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd chain from hook, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [8 sc]

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. PM in each ch-2 sp to mark corners. [12 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 3 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, Cl in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [16 sc, 4 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 4 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made,* sc in next 5 sts] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next 2 sts, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [28 sc {7 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 5 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, [*Cl in next st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc next st, Cl next st,* sc next 3 sts] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in last 2 sts, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [28 sc, 8 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 6 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in sts to end of Rnd, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [44 sc {11 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 7 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next 3 st, Cl in next st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, Cl in next st, sc next 3 sts, Cl next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [40 sc, 12 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 8 (RS): Repeat Rnd 6. [60 sc {15 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 9 (RS): Change to Color B. With RS facing attach yarn at first sc on left corner. Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, Fan in next st, skip 2 sts, (sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) 2 times*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [32 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 Fan, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, sc next st, ch 1, skip next 3 sts/sps, (V-st next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st) 2 times, V-st next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next 3 sts/sps, sc next st, sc next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc next st, ch 1 skip next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [32 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 12 V-st, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts/sps, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next 4 sts/sps, sc2tog next st and sp, sc in next 5 sts/sps, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 5 sts/sps, sc2tog next sp and st,* sc in next 4 sts/sps] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next st, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [88 sc, 8 sc2tog, 8 ch-2 sp]

Round 12 in progress, moving corner stitch markers.

Rnd 12 (WS): Change to Color C. With WS facing, attach new yarn in first sc at right corner, ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*ch 1, skip 1 st, sc next st, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc next st, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc next st, ch 1 , slip st in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp at point of star, ch 1,* sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [ 16 V-st, 16 dc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Round 12 finished and new corners marked.

Rnd 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in same st as join, [*loose slip st in next ch-1 sp, skip slip st, loose slip st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st, hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next 2 sts, (V-st next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts) 2 times, V-st next ch-1 sp, Fan in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to middle ch-1 sp of Fan, V-st in next ch-1 sp, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp) 2 times, ch 1, skip 2 sts, hdc in next ch-1 sp*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [8 ch-1 sp, 8 sc, 8 hdc, 8 loose slip st, 24 V-st, 4 Fan]

Rnd 14 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc and hdc in next st, skip next 2 sts/sps, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-1 sp, move stitch marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, dc next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts/sps, hdc and sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 2 loose slip sts, sc in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [ 24 ch-1 sp, 16 sc, 32 hdc, 24 dc, 8 V-st, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 15 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st and sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [136 sc {34 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 16 – 19 (RS): Change to Color D. Ch 1, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off at end of Rnd 19.

Rnd 16 count [144 sc {36 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 17 count [152 sc {38 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 18 count [160 sc {40 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 19 count [168 sc {42 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Surface Crochet Outlines

If you are not familiar with working surface single crochet you may find it easier to work the surface crochet first on Rnd 15. If you want to work the surface crochet before finishing the square, complete Rnd 12 before doing the surface crochet on Rnd 11, and complete Rnd 16 before doing the surface crochet on Rnd 15.

Surface single crochet around stitches of Rnd 11:

With Color D attach yarn with a standing sc around the post of any of the sc along a straight edge before a side point, [continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the side point ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the slip st from Rnd 12 as the “post”, continue with FPsc around the post of each Rnd 11 sc until reach the corner point ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the inside strands of the 2 dc from Rnd 12 as the “post”] 4 times, continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the beginning of your surface crochet round, slip st to join to first FPsc of round. [112 FPsc {14 between each point counting 1 point]

Surface crochet/FP sc around posts of Rnd 15:

Inserting hook using inside strands of the 2 corner sc from Round 16.

With Color A attach yarn with a standing sc around the post of any of the sc along a straight edge before a corner ch-2 sp, [continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the inside strands of the 2 sc from Rnd 16 as the “post”] 4 times, continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the beginning of your surface crochet round, slip st to join to first FPsc of round. [144 FPsc {36 each side counting 1 corner}]

Finishing

Weave in tails and block.

Josephine Cloche Crochet Pattern

September 25, 2020September 26, 2020Blog Hop, Crochet, Crochet Design, Crochet How-Tos, Free Pattern Links, Online, Pattern11 Comments

I’m so excited to be part of the 4th Annual Stitch & Hustle Blog Hop: The Perfect Picot. Links to visit the other participating designers patterns are after this pattern, as well as a link to the “Win All You Need to Make This” Giveaway information. A big Thank You to WeCrochet.com for providing the yarn for all these designs.

Picots are a stitch that I love for edgings because they add a visual texture that creates a finished look. For this pattern I have incorporated the picot stitch for the edging on the brim of the hat and each flower has picots for additional texture and shaping of the petals. If you have a hard time working picots you can check out my blog post: Don’t Fear the Picot with photo tutorials to help you see how I work them. I have also included a mini photo tutorial in the instructions for Flower 1 to help you with the picots worked into the cluster stitches.

I hope you enjoy my pattern for this fun Cloche Hat. I named it after my Great Aunt Josephine, who was quite the style maven in the 1920s. I’ve always loved looking at old photos of her from those years and she was my inspiration.

I have been wanting to design a winter hat that shaded my eyes a bit during the winter as our Colorado winters can be very sunny. I have lots of summer hats that provide plenty of shade from the sun, but most of my winter hats are beanie styles. The drunken brim on this hat is has just enough extension to give a little protection, while the wool yarn makes for a lovely warm hat perfect for the colder weather.

Josephine Cloche

Pattern Details

Skill Level: Intermediate

Stitches used – Chain (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Half Double Crochet (hdc), Double Crochet (dc), Cluster (Cl), Extended Double Crochet (Exdc), Picot (picot)

Size: Finished size 23 inches head circumference at beginning of brim.

Materials:

Yarn – We Crochet “Swish Worsted”, 100% Fine Superwash Merino Wool (50 g; 110yds), #4 weight category

Color A – #25630 Rainforest Heather (Dark Teal)

Color B – #26067 Wonderland Heather (Pale Aqua)

Color C – #25147 Amethyst Heather (Deep Purple)

Color D – #26068 Conch (Bright Peach)

Hook – H (5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions –

yarn/tapestry needle,

16 stitch markers in 2 colors: 8 in first color, 8 in second color

Gauge: Diameter of first 6 Rnds of Crown, also 9 rows and 16 sts of double crochet worked in the Rnd, both = 4 inches (10 cm)

Special Stitches/Abbreviations:

Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.

Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.

Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.

PM (Place Marker)

Pattern Notes:

This hat is worked crown down with standard increases in continuous rounds for the first 13 rounds, then worked is turned so that the front of the previous rounds’ stitches become the wrong side of fabric.

The band of the hat is worked in joined rounds with short rows worked to create an asymmetrical shaping. All band rounds and short rows are worked in the same direction. I have included a photo of how I used stitch markers to help me keep track of where the stitch heights change. I used a different color marker for the regular band rounds from the markers for the short rows.

After band is finished work is turned again. Next a flared “drunken” brim is worked in joined rounds, without turning. Then work is turned to crochet the edging. If a more structured brim is desired the edging can be crocheted over millinery wire to stiffen.

Flowers are worked separately and can be sewn to the hat band or sewn to a pin backing to attach to hat.

Instructions

Crown

Rnd 1: Start with Color A using an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (1 sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd ch from hook. PM in last hdc with first color st marker. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st, PM in 2nd hdc made using second color st markers 7 times, move last st marker to last st made. [16 hdc]

Rnds 3-10: Hdc in each unmarked st, 2 hdc in each marked st moving st marker to 2nd st made. At end of Rnd 10 remove all markers except last st marker. [Count at end of Rnd 10 – 80 hdc]

Rnds 11 – 13: Hdc in each st to last st, move st marker up to last st of Rnd.

Step down at end of Rnd 13: Sc in next st, loosely sl st in next st, sl st in next st. Fasten off Color A, change to Color B.

Band

Rnd 1: Continue with Color B, ch 1, turn, sc in loose sl st from step down, sc next 6 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]

Short Row 1: With Color C. Attach new yarn with sl st at 10th st from beginning of previous Rnd, sc next 10 sts, hdc next 10 sts, dc next 20 sts, hdc next 10 sts, sc next 10 sts, sl st next st, fasten off yarn. [20 sc, 20 hdc, 20 dc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc next 7 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]

Short Row 2: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 3: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 4: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 4: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 5: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off Color B, change to Color A.

Brim

Rnd 1: Continue with Color A, ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st around, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [80 hdc]

Rnd 2: Using 8 st markers PM in 3rd st then in every 10th st around, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in marked sts moving st marker to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [88 hdc]

Rnd 3: Add a st marker in 5th st past current st markers, total of 16 markers, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [104 hdc]

Rnd 4 & 5: Ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [end of Rnd 5 – 136 hdc]

Rnd 6 (Picot edging): Ch 1, turn, sc next 2 sts, picot in sc just made, (sc next 4 sts, picot in last sc just made) 33 times, sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [136 sc, 34 picot]

All flowers start with an adjustable slip knot, if substituting magic circle ch 1 at start instead of ch 2.

Flower 1

Rnd 1: Color D, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.

Flower 2

Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, dc, 3 Exdc, dc, hdc, sc) in ch-3 sp, skip to next ch-3 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 of Rnd.

Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, sc next st, (sc, picot in sc just made, sc) in next st, sc in next st, ch 2, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc] 5 times. Fasten off

Flower 3

Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, [(sc, ch 5, sc) in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 5 times, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-5 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, 2 dc, Exdc, ch 1, Exdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-5 sp] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 sp.

Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, {(sc, picot in sc just made) in next st/ch sp} 3 times, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc,] 5 times. Fasten off

Finishing

Weave in tails for hat.

Stack Flowers sandwiching flower 2 between 1 and 3. Use tails to sew them together referencing photo for staggering of petals.

Finish by sewing flowers to hat band where the pink X is shown in photo, or sew to a pin backing to make removable.

A PDF version of this pattern is available in my Ravelry Shop and includes stich charts for the flowers and crown. You can purchase it by clicking here: BUY NOW.

You can visit all the other designers in the Perfect Picot Blog Hop using the links below:

Be sure to enter the drawing for the fantastic giveaway “Win All You Need to Make This”. There will be 5 lucky winners for 5 different groups of designs. The drawing is open Worldwide and ends October 9th. Visit the Stitch & Hustle blog hop main post for all the details.

One Skein Joy Slippers

August 8, 2020"I Like Crochet", Crochet, Crochet Design, M2H Designs Ravelry Shop, Magazine, TeachingLeave a Comment

Image of finished slippers with pom pom decoration.

Every Christmas morning when I was a child my whole family always received hand-knitted slippers from my mom. We wore them until they were nearly tattered or we had outgrown them. In honor of that memory I designed the “One Skein Joy Slippers” in crochet. The first pair I made were a gift for my mom for Christmas 2017.

You only need one skein of Berocco Worsted Weight Ultra Wool to make a pair of slippers that fit a US Women’s size 7.5/8. They were originally published in the December 2018 issue of the online magazine “I Like Crochet”, the pattern is now available for sell in my Ravelry Shop. The PDF version of the pattern includes stitch charts and photo tutorials to help you successfully crochet up some slippers for yourself.

I will also be teaching this project as a Zoom class thru the Longmont Yarn Shoppe in late October. I’ll provide the link to class registration here as soon as it is available. The class will be taught in two 1.5 hour segments to give students time to complete work between classes and will be called “Crochet Slippers 101”. I will also be teaching a follow-up class, “Crochet Slippers 102” later in November that will expand on this pattern so you can work the slippers for various sizes of feet.

Strawberry Fields Shawlette

August 1, 2020Crochet, Crochet Design, Indie publication1 Comment

Well there has certainly been a lot keeping me busy the past 3 months. One of the things I have been spending a lot of time on has been writing up patterns for designs that I had created over the past year.

I finished crocheting this shawlette back in November, but never got around to blocking it until now. I used some gorgeous superwash merino that I purchased at my local yarn shop, Longmont Yarn Shoppe. The yarn is from Farmers Daughter Fibers, they create gorgeous hand dyed colors that make me drool. This yarn is called “Squish Worsted” and it truly is very squishy and snuggly.

My plan for this shawlette is for a warm layer to wrap around my neck with my burgundy winter coat. I love the dramatic border for those days that are warm enough to leave my coat open.

I used almost all of the skein of variegated yarn for the body of the shawl, then all but a quarter of the solid color for the border. The pattern is available in my Ravelry shop and includes stitch charts for both the simple mesh of the body and the lace border.

This shawlette works up fairly quickly, so if you are thinking about crafting for Christmas this would be a great gift for someone special on your gift list (or something special to spoil yourself with).