I colored my page with my Staedler Noris Club colored pencils. I have found these to be a great inexpensive pencil for coloring. I also really like the Anti-Breaking System these pencils have. I can get super sharp points without losing chunks of the lead.
All My Love Heart Motif Pattern
This little heart is a great way to add some love to your crochet projects, or work a bunch up in a variety of colors to decorate handmade cards. Needing only a little over 8 yards of worsted weight yarn to make, they are a prefect way to use up those bits of yarn scraps.
Yarn & Hook: Worsted Weight yarn with Size H (5 mm) Hook. Samples in photo are made with Berroco Ultra Wool worsted weight yarn in a variety of colors from my stash with a size H / 5 mm hook.
Heart is 2 1/8 inches across widest point and 2” tall from top of bumps to bottom point.
Notions
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Special Stitches
Chain 2 Picot: Ch 2, slip st in top of previous stitch working under the front loop and top side loop. If you need help with this technique visit my blog post: Don’t Fear the Picot.
Pattern Notes:
This heart motif begins with an Adjustable slip knot. If you need help with this technique check out my YouTube video.
Instructions
Rnd 1: Starting with an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center, slip st to top of first sc. [7 sc]
Rnd 2: Skip first st, 5 dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st, slip st to to of first sc of Rnd 1. [14 dc]
Rnd 3: Sc in first st, 2 sc in each of next 4 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, ch-2 picot in previous sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 4 sts, (sc, slip st) in last st. [24 sc]
Fasten off and pull ending tail thru slip st and tighten. Weave in all ends.
Have a great time crocheting hearts and showing your love. Tag me on Instragram: @andee.graves so I can see how your hearts turned out and how you used them.
I have my annual afghan square pattern for you all to enjoy in celebration of my birthday. It is also Square #21 of the 2021 Moogly Afghan CAL. This is the “Touch of Love Afghan Square” and I’ve shown it in the above photo in 3 different color styles. The pattern does not include instructions on changing colors, I’ve left that decision to you. I have included information on how much yarn of each color I needed for the 3 samples I made.
Sample 1 is a single color that lets the texture of the stitches be the star.
Sample 2 uses accent color changes with the hearts in a solid color.
Sample 3 uses color changes on each bobble stitch round to create additional texture and really makes the hearts pop out. When I worked with the 2 colors in the center heart square I didn’t cut my yarn between color changes. Instead I pulled a loop of the next color up through the slip stitch that joined the previous color. I tightened the slip stitch, then pulled up a long loop of the previous color and put a locking stitch marker in it to keep the loop from being lost. After working the new color round I used the same method to switch back to my previous color. There is a little “holding your mouth just right” with this method, but it is well worth saving yourself having to weave in a bunch of ends when you finish the square.
Tamara’s version of my square is shown in the photo above. She chose to change colors at the same points I did for my Sample 2 of the square. You can read about how she worked the square and see the other wonderful squares in this year’s CAL by visiting the Moogly Blog.
Typically when working bobble textures on a project I design it in a graph with single crochets as the background. I wanted a softer fabric for this afghan square, so I used a linen stitch as the background. This took a little experimenting to get the balance for the fabric to have drape and the bobbles to “pop”. I hope you’ll be as happy with the result as I am.
Pattern is available here in text form and also available for purchase as an Ad-free PDF that includes stitch charts for the entire block in my Ravelry Shop.
Touch of Love Afghan Square
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 12” square
Materials:
Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love”, 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m)
(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
(PM) Place Marker
(3dcCL) 3 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.
(4dcCL) 4 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 4 times, YO pull thru remaining 5 loops on hook.
(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. (Video tutorial)
Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. Overall counts of stitches along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count.
In Round 19 and 20 the V-stitches are started with a chainless single crochet and 3 chains as the first double crochet and ch-1 of the V-stitch. The rounds are joined with a slip stitch to the 2nd chain of that first ch-3.
Instructions
Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (sc, ch 2) 4 times in 2nd chain from hook, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd. PM in each ch-2 sp. [4 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn [(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [8 sc, 4 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 3 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd. [12 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {5 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 4 (WS):Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [4 4dcCL, 16 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {7 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [20 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {9 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 6 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp,* ch 1, skip 1 next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, Rep from * to * once, 3dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 4 3dcCL, 24 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {11 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, {sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [28 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {13 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 8 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 8 3dcCL, 32 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {15 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [52 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {17 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next 2 sts/sps, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, ch 1, skip 1 next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 8 3dcCL, 48 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {19 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [60 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {21 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 12 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 4dcCL in next st, {sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 2 times, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 12 3dcCL, 48 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp] {23 sts btwn ch-2 sps}
Rnds 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 6 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st/sp} 5 times, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [52 sc, 48 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {25 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 14 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*{sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st} 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st,* {sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 next st} 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, 4dcCL in next st, Rep from * to * once] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [12 4dcCL, 16 3dcCL, 56 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {27 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 15 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [76 sc, 40 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {29 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 16 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*sc in next 2 st/sp, {4dcCL in next st, sc in next st} 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp,* {ch 1, skip 1 next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, Rep from * to * once, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [16 4dcCL, 72 sc, 36 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {31 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 17 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 8 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st/sp} 7 times, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [68 sc, 64 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {33 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 18 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st/sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [140 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {35 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 19 (RS): Turn, (sc, ch 3, dc) in first st {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in next st*, Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts remain un-worked, skip last 2 sts, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch-3. [52 V-sts, 4 ch-2 sp {13 V- sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 20 (WS): Ch 1, turn, skip next st, (sc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-1 sp {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in next st,* Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts remain un-worked, skip last 2 sts, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch-3. [52 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {13 V- sts & 2 dc btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 21 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [172 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {43 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Well it might not look like it at my house, but Spring has sprung. Soon the warmer weather will find us, even up here on the mountain, and when it does I’ll be looking for cool projects to work on. So my thoughts turn to lace! Lace to make – challenging stitches, airy patterns, gorgeous lightweight yarns – and lace to wear – the perfect items to get me from Spring to Summer or Summer to Fall.
In honor of Spring I joined 34 of my crochet designer colleagues and created the Crochet for Me Lace Bundle. It’s chock full of 46 individual patterns, never before offered in a bundle or for free, that will give you a wide range of patterns that will suit your lacy fancy.
All sorts of patterns are included from hats and headbands, to tees and shawls, to a dress and jewelry, and even a lacy pillow for your lounging pleasure.
I’ve contributed 2 never before released patterns to this gorgeous lace collection: Arrows Lace Wrap and Lace is the Point Cowl.
For the Arrows Lace Wrap I wanted to explore this fun 4 Row lace repeat. I used a central foundation with the wrap worked off each side and ending with an elaborate pointed border. The beginning and end of each row finishes the edge as you go, so once you are done all you have to do is block and weave in a few ends. This pattern is also available in my Ravelry Shop for $5.99.
For the Lace is the Point Cowl I was having some fun with the gorgeous “Folio” yarn from Berroco. The drape and soft fluffy feel of this yarn make it perfect for a cozy lacy layer for a cowl that can see you into the cooler weather. It takes less than 1 ball of yarn, so it’s a great project to splurge on yourself with. This pattern is also available in my Ravelry Shop for $4.99.
You get all 46 patterns featured in this bundle for only $25. That’s less than 55 cents per pattern! But the offer is only available through April 21, 2021, 11:59 PM Eastern, and it absolutely will not be extended nor repeated.
If you purchased these patterns individually they would cost you well over $200. And by buying from a coalition of designers like this instead of a huge publisher, you know that your money is going where it’s needed – into the pockets of your favorite designers so they can keep on creating the patterns you love to make.
If all of that is not enough to convince you you need this bundle here’s one more great thing. Once you gain access to the patterns you ALSO get a file with extra discount codes for additional products offered by some of our amazing designer friends. And there’s a 15 day money back guarantee so you have absolutely nothing to lose.
Knit For Me Lace Bundle Pattern
For those of my readers that also love to knit there is a Knit for Me Lace Bundle too! The Knit for Me Lace Bundle has 33 patterns for only $17. That’s less than 52 cents per pattern. If you purchased these patterns individually they would cost you well over $170. But the offer is only available through April 21, 2021, 11:59 PM Eastern, and it absolutely will not be extended nor repeated.
If you purchase both bundles together you get an even better discount.
So support the community that you love, rejoice in the fact that you are a clever bargain hunter, then put your feet up and crochet (or knit) something light and lacy as you watch the flowers bloom! Enjoy all of these things – and the lovely Spring weather – while they last.
2020 has been a year of loss for so many of us. In my life this year I have lost 4 loved ones; my friend Cyndy in July, my friend Bonnie in September, my mother in October and just last week my friend Amy. Cancer took my 3 friends and Covid19 my mother. So this holiday season I am really focusing on making it about slowing down and connecting with loved ones as well as appreciating the things that are a comfort to me.
I decided I wanted to add some ornaments to our tree this year to remember not only the 4 loved ones I lost in 2020, but so many others that have gone before. I created an angel ornament design that I want to share with you today it is available for free here on the blog, or if you prefer an Ad free Stitch chart version you can purchase it in my Ravelry Shop. This is an easy intermediate crochet project that doesn’t take a lot of time or yarn to crochet.
It does take some attention to the work to follow, and that is the Peace part of this post. Crochet can be a wonderful way to meditate or even pray. The focus you need for this project means that you take a little break from what ever stresses are on your shoulders. Carving out that small space for peace in your life can be a total sanity saver, something I think we can all use after the intensity of 2020.
Gauge First 2 rounds of Body = 2.5” across diameter.
Special Stitches or Abbreviations:
(ExDc)Extended Double Crochet: YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, (YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times.
(RS) Right Side
(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
Pattern Notes:
Angel is worked in 2 parts. The body and head are worked in one piece, the wings are worked separately and sewn onto the back of the body.
Instructions:
Body & Head
Rnd 1 (RS): Start with an adjustable slip knot, Ch 4 {counts as center and first dc of Rnd}, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, slip st to top of beginning ch. [12 dc]
Rnd 2: Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, turn, 2 dc in next 11 sts, dc in same st as join from Rnd 1, slip st to top of beginning ch. [24 dc]
Rnd 3 (RS): Ch 3, turn, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) 2 times, 2 dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next 7 sts, (1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) 2 times, (sl st, *ch 2, dc, 3 ExDc, dc, ch 2, sl st) in top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off with 10 inch long tail.
Instructions for head begin at * to make head in different color change color at *.Pull up loop of new color thru sl st before *, use body color for long tail at *.
Weave in beginning tail of body. Use ending tail of body to sew the indicated 7 stitches of body on either side of head together with a whip stitch, secure end of tail and fasten off excess.
Wings
Row 1: Start with an adjustable slip knot leaving an 8 inch long tail, ch 4, {counts as ceter and first dc of Row} 6 dc in 4th ch from hook. [7 dc]
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc of Row}, turn, dc in first st, 2 dc in next 6 sts. [14 dc]
Row 3: Ch 4 {counts as first Tr of Row}, turn, Tr in first st, 2 Tr in next 2 sts, Tr in next st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next 2 sts, Tr in next st, 2 Tr in next 3 sts. [14 Tr, 10 dc]
Row 4 – Border (RS): Ch 1, turn, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, ch 1, working along ends of rows, sc in end of sc border, 3 sc in end of Tr row, 2 sc in end of each dc row, 3 sc in end of Tr row, sc in beginning of border row. Fasten off with 10 inch tail. [48 sc]
Weaving ending tail 2nd time thru base of last 16 border sts.
Weave ending tail of wing thru wrong side of base of last 16 sc of border in both directions to stiffen top edge of wing, or crochet over a piece of floral wire when making the last 16 sc of border to make wings posable.
Weave beginning tail of wing to secure opening at base of Row 1, Do Not cut off tail .
Assembly
Place wings RS down on back of Body just below head and using remainder of wings beginning tail to sew down center of wing to secure to body piece.
Hanger options: Use nylon monofilament or ribbon thru center st of head as hanger for ornament, or weave remaining tails after sewing on wings up thru center stitch of head and tie for hanger.
Optional: Use a loop of yarn to hang a crystal or charm inside the lower opening of the body like a clapper on a bell.
You can open up the body of your angel and fold the wings back to create a more 3D style angel, or flatten the body and wings for a more 2D style angel.
Every Christmas morning when I was a child my whole family always received hand-knitted slippers from my mom. We wore them until they were nearly tattered or we had outgrown them. In honor of that memory I designed the “One Skein Joy Slippers” in crochet. The first pair I made were a gift for my mom for Christmas 2017.
You only need one skein of Berocco Worsted Weight Ultra Wool to make a pair of slippers that fit a US Women’s size 7.5/8. They were originally published in the December 2018 issue of the online magazine “I Like Crochet”, the pattern is now available for sell in my Ravelry Shop. The PDF version of the pattern includes stitch charts and photo tutorials to help you successfully crochet up some slippers for yourself.
I will also be teaching this project as a Zoom class thru the Longmont Yarn Shoppe in late October. I’ll provide the link to class registration here as soon as it is available. The class will be taught in two 1.5 hour segments to give students time to complete work between classes and will be called “Crochet Slippers 101”. I will also be teaching a follow-up class, “Crochet Slippers 102” later in November that will expand on this pattern so you can work the slippers for various sizes of feet.
Happy Thanksgiving to all my U.S. readers. I’m so thankful to all of you coming to visit my blog.
I’m sharing this latest free pattern with you. I’m having fun with spirals again this time around. To keep things even more interesting I’ve added some Join-as-You-Go edgings for making the spiral grid that is the centerpiece for this square.
For those that prefer to have a PDF with stitch charts for each element and no ads, you can purchase the pattern for less than $4 thru my Ravelry Shop by clicking here.
Spirals and Lace Afghan Square
Designed
by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size:
12”
square
Materials:
Yarn Worsted wt (Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yd/338 m)
Color A: #1704 Bubble Gum
Color B: #1308 Tan
Color C: #1538 Lilac
Color D: #1969 Wintergreen
Color E: #1101 Eggshell
This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.
Hook J / 6 mm
Notions 8 locking st markers (2 in one color, 6 in another color), Yarn/tapestry needle for weaving in ends
My favorite locking stitch markers are from the Clover company, like the ones above. If you can’t find them locally click on the photo above to find them on Amazon.
This handy 6 inch ruler is great for checking your gauge, especially with the center finding measure on one side it’s perfect for measuring center out motifs, whether squares or rounds. If you can’t find one locally click on the photograph above to find it on Amazon.
Gauge 1 Spiral Square = 3 inches square
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
Loose slip stitch (sl st loosely):
Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook
keeping loose like making a chain st.
Joining slip st (sl st): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru
place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop
is tight.
Standing
Double Crochet (Standing dc): make
slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook
into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook) twice.
If substituting for a chain start of a round, do not work the first 3 chains of
the round instructions.
V-stitch
(V-st): (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated
st or sp.
Join-As-You-Go
(JAY-Go)
Pattern Notes:
Overall square starts with 9 2-armed spiral rounds, then spirals are joined together in a grid with Join-as-you-Go round to square edging creating a 9.5 inch square. Bordering Rounds are worked along outside edge of this grid to finish.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets.
Instructions
Spirals – Make 9
In Sample: 4 corner spirals used Colors A & B, 4 side spirals used Colors A & C, and center spiral used Colors C & B.
Note: Round 3 of Spirals specifies “sl st loosely”, this means work the indicated slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten it as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches in the edging rounds.
Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with first Color and adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (2 sc, 2 hdc) in second ch from hook, pull up long loop of first Color and remove hook, insert hook in same ch as previous work, pull up a loop of second Color on shaft of hook, ch 1, working over beginning tail (2 sc, 2 hdc) in same ch st, pull beginning tail of first Color to close center tightly. [2 sc, 2 hdc, in each color {8 sts total}]
Place
st markers in each st using a different color marker to indicate the last st of
each color section.
Rnd 2: Begin with first Color, *(2 hdc in marked st, move st
marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of first Color, switch to
second Color, Repeat from * to *. [8 hdc,
in each color {16 sts total}]
Rnd 3: Begin with first Color, *(hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, remove st marker) 4 times*, pull up loop of first Color, switch to second Color, Repeat from * to *, [12 hdc in each color],
Switch back to first Color, **hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st loosely in next st, sl st in back loop of next st, fasten off and pull tail thru final sl st and snug**, switch to second Color, Repeat from ** to ** once. [10 hdc, 1 sc, 1 loose slip st, in each color of open sts]
Joining Spirals
Note: When working the sl st joins into the ch-sps of previous edgings it works better to lay the work on a flat surface and bring the working loop for the loose sl st over the top of the ch-sp and pull the working yarn thru from behind. This will give you a flat and tidy join.
Corner Spiral Squares Edging
Rnd 1:
Insert hook in any open stitch along edge of spiral round, pull up a loop of Color D, ch 1, working over beginning tail sc in same st as join, (*ch 1, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st, ch 2, dc & hdc in next st, ch 1, skip next st,* sc in next 2 sts) 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd, fasten off and pull tail thru final st. [8 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp, 8 hdc, 8 dc]
Center Spiral Square JAY-Go Edging
Rnd 1: Insert hook in any open stitch along edge of spiral round, pull up a loop of Color D, ch 1, working over beginning tail sc in same st as join, (*ch 1, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st, ch 1, sl st tightly to adjacent ch-2 sp of a Corner Spiral edging, ch 1, return to center spiral, dc & hdc in next st, ch 1, skip next st,* sc in next 2 sts) 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd, fasten off and pull tail thru final st. [8 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 JAY-Go corner sp, 8 hdc, 8 dc]
Side Spiral Squares #1-3 JAY-Go Edging
Rnd 1: Insert hook in any open stitch along edge of spiral round that will be outside edge of square, pull up a loop of Color D, ch 1, working over beginning tail sc in same st as join, ch 1, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st, *ch 1, sl st tightly to adjacent ch-2 sp of a Corner Spiral edging, ch 1, return to side spiral, dc & hdc in next st,*
sl st loosely in nearest ch-1 sp of adjacent spiral edging, return to side spiral, skip next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st loosely in nearest ch-1 sp of adjacent spiral edging, return to side spiral, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st,
(ch 1, sl st tightly to adjacent corner join, ch 1, return to side spiral, dc & hdc in next st, sl st loosely in nearest ch-1 sp of adjacent spiral edging, return to side spiral, skip next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st loosely in nearest ch-1 sp of adjacent spiral edging, return to side spiral, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st) 2 times,
Repeat from * to * once, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd, fasten off and pull tail thru final st. [8 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 6 sl st JAY-Go sp, 4 ch-2 JAY-Go corner sp, 8 hdc, 8 dc]
Side Spiral Square #4 JAY-Go Edging
Work same as Side Spiral Squares #1-3 JAY-Go Edging but do NOT fasten off at end. [8 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 6 sl st JAY-Go sp, 4 ch-2 JAY-Go corner sp, 8 hdc, 8 dc]
Border
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 13 sts, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-2 sp, PM in ch-2 sp just made,* sc in next 28 sts] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next 14 sts, sl st to first sc of rnd. Fasten off. [120 sc, 4 ch-2 corner sps]
Rnd 2: Attach Color E with Standing dc in 14th st from any left ch-2 corner sp, *skip 2 sts, V-st in next st*, Repeat from * to * 3 times, skip next st, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 just made, skip 1 st, V-st in next st, Repeat from * to * 9 times, skip 1 st] 3 times, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 just made, skip 1 st, V-st in next st, Repeat from * to * 4 times, skip 2 sts, dc in same st as standing dc, ch 1, sl st to first dc {counts as final V-st of round}. Fasten off. [40 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 3: Attach Color C with a Standing dc in any ch-1 sp of any V-st, [V-st in each ch-1 sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in ch-2 sp, move marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, V-st in each ch-1 sp until reach beginning, dc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sl st to first dc of rnd {makes last V-st of Rnd}. Fasten off. [48 V-sts, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 4: Insert hook in any dc along a side, pull up a loop of Color E, ch 1, working over beginning tail sc in same st as join, [sc in each st and ch-1 sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st and ch-1 sp until reach end of Rnd, sl st to first sc. [152 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]
Finishing
Block gently, weave in loose ends.
This square is block #24 of the 2019 Moogly Afghan CAL. You can find Tamara’s version of my square and links to the other 23 squares by clicking here: MooglyBlog.
The weather has cooled off significantly up here on my mountain. We have already had a couple of super snowy days and the snow is hanging around with the temperatures barely getting above freezing.
Last week was all about making costumes for my kiddos at the last minute. I didn’t get photos the day of, I was doing finishing touches 2 minutes before they ran out the door to their party. We took these this past Saturday after a bit of repair work. My oldest was The Grim Reaper, all I had to make was the black cloak. Everything else was created by J, including the creative white patterns on mask, scythe and tabbard.
My youngest was Spectre Knight from a video game. We did a lot of searching of images to decide on the appearance and what we could realistically get done in the short time we had. The cloak with it’s skull embellished cowl came out the best, the armour was a bit sad. He was happy with it.
Casual Crochet Group modeling their Paulette Ponchos
The last 3 summers I have created a design for my Casual Crochet Group at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe. We call this our Testing Pool project. the crocheters that want to, join in work the pattern and give me feedback on changes or mistakes they find.
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This year our project was a simple top down poncho worked in rounds using a cotton blend yarn with long color changes: Katia’s “Funny Rainbow Star”. Some of the crocheters picked the version of the yarn that doesn’t have sparkles. I, of course, went for the sparkly yarn.
This project is a great one for travel crochet and TV crochet. It’s a simple stitch pattern that is perfect for showcasing yarns with long color changes or even busier variegated colors. I use stitch markers to make it easy to keep track of when to increase and where to join at the end of each round.
For the lighter weight yarns I found myself preferring to use my Clover Quick Locking Stitch Markers. If you can’t find them in your local shops you can purchase them on Amazon by clicking on the image above.
Cotton blend yarns are great for making a summer weight garment, but if you are looking for more warmth, switch to a warmer fiber like wool or alpaca. It could be lovely in a fluffy yarn like a silk/mohair too.
The pattern has both written and charted instructions, as well as information on how to add more rounds to the poncho length. The original pattern was written for using a fingering or sock weight yarn. If you want to make it with a worsted weight or thicker yarn you will need to check if you want the neckline foundation to be shorter. The pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry shop as the “Paulette Poncho”.
This past weekend was my birthday and this year I am doing something a little different. Instead of a blanket square as my birthday pattern I am sharing this fun pattern for a women’s beanie.
I designed this hat almost 10 years ago when I had just one cake of Noro Kureyon yarn leftover from another project. With only 109 yards in the 50 gram cake I knew I needed an openwork stitch that would give me enough fabric to reach my ears. But I wanted the crown of the hat to have some solid stitch work to help with warmth.
The finished hat has been one of my favorites to stuff in a coat pocket. It’s a light layer of warmth when the weather is chilly and also works as a great cover for “bad-hair” days. I’ve been wearing it again as our mornings up here on the mountain have been chilly for the past month.
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Premier “Everyday Soft Worsted”
I decided it was time to write up the pattern and share it with my readers. In the process of writing the pattern I worked 2 new samples in different worsted weight yarns. Premier “Every Day Soft Worsted” and Berroco “Ultra Wool”. Because these yarns come in 100 gram skeins I also added some more rounds for better coverage of the ears. I used approximately 118 yards for each sample.
V-st (V stitch)– (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated stitch or space.
PM – Place Stitch Marker
Pattern Notes:
Hat is worked Crown down and started with an adjustable slip
knot. If you prefer to use a magic circle work only 1 chain at start of
instructions and use your circle as the “2nd ch from hook”.
Each round is joined with a tight slip stitch to make the join as invisible as possible. At start of single crochet rounds make the chain stitch a little smaller than usual to keep joins less noticeable. PM in first stitch of single crochet rounds to make it easier to find at end of round.
Instructions
Crown
Rnd 1: Starting with Adjustable Slip Knot, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch
from hook, sl st to first sc of Rnd. Gently tighten center of circle. [6 sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [12 sc]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times, sl st to
first sc of Rnd. [18 sc]
Rnd 4: Ch 4, dc in same st as join {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, (skip 1 st, V-st in next st) 8
times, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. [9
V-st]
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, (2 sc in next ch-1 sp, sc next
2 sts) 8 times, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [36 sc]
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times, sl st to
first sc of Rnd. [42 sc]
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times, sl st to
first sc of Rnd. [48 sc]
Rnd 8: Ch 4, dc in same st as join {counts as first V-st} (sk 1 st, V-st next st) 23 times, sl st to
3rd ch of beginning ch-4. [24 V-sts]
Sides
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, (sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next
2 sts) 22 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [72 sc]
Rnd 10: Ch 4, dc
in same st as join {counts as first V-st},
(sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 22 times, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. [24 V-sts]
Rnds 11 – 24: Alternate repeating Rnd 9 and Rnd 10, ending with a Rnd 10. {For a smaller beanie like my original Kureyon sample end at Round 20, then work Rnd 25 (Edging).}
Rnd 25 (Edging): Ch 1, turn, (2 sc, hdc, 2 sc) in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off [96 sc, 24 hdc]
New Crochet Lace Cowl Design and a Free Coloring Page
I keep thinking our mountain summertime has really started, then the weather proves me wrong. This past week included 3 inches of hail, 45F temperatures and snowflakes in the air Sunday morning. Fortunately our mob of hummingbirds at the feeders every evening reassures me that they think it is summer. The bear has been visiting us too, so he definitely thinks it is summertime.
I haven’t been blogging as much because I have been a crazy busy woman getting ready for the CGOA conference (ChainLink) in Manchester, New Hampshire. Being on the Board of Directors means I am involved in a lot of behind the scenes planning of events. This is especially so as a couple of my chairs for committees have had to cancel coming to the conference.
With ChainLink only 2 weeks away I’m also figuring out what to pack. I always over pack on crochet projects, but I hate to not have something to work on, especially on my travel days. Getting to Manchester and back home is a pretty full day of travel from Colorado. Long lay-overs are much better when one has crochet to play with.
What is your favorite go-to project to work on when traveling? I like smaller projects like hats, cowls, slippers or mittens. They don’t require a lot of yarn, so it’s not too big a project bag. Speaking of cowls….
My latest published pattern is a lovely lacy cowl. I was given the gorgeous Suri Alpaca blend sock yarn above to design with at TNNA by the LGF Suris folks a couple years ago. Life happened (like it does) and it took me a little time to complete, but I am really happy with how it came out.
This is my Rhythm of Shells Cowl, published in my M2H Designs pattern line and available for purchase in my Ravelry shop. It is an interesting 4 row stitch pattern that is easy to memorize, but not so dull that it will put you to sleep. It starts with one of my Stacked Rows Foundations and ends with a pretty pointed border. The pattern instructions include a stitch chart. My sample took only 1 hank of the LGF Suris yarn to make and worked up light and warm.
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I also have a new coloring page for you to enjoy. Hopefully where you live it is actually feeling like summertime. Mandalas are very relaxing to color as well as draw. You can even have fun adding your own doodles to this mandala to add to your coloring relaxation.
My current favorite pens for drawing my coloring pages with are my Staedtler Pigment Liners. This set of 8 different line widths is perfect for carrying with me whenever I want to draw. I tend to use the 0.3 size the most, so I’ve purchased extra pens in that size to add to my drawing supplies. If you can’t find them in your local shops click on the photo above to find them on Amazon.
For coloring this page today I used both Staedler Triplus fineliner markers and Staedler Noris Club Colored pencils. I like using fineliner markers for the small details when coloring to ensure that I get the intensity of color that I want. Where the colored pencils are good for laying out larger sections of color in a softer tone.
The Noris Club pencils are great for traveling with, the white layer around the core makes the colored leads more durable. They also seem to hold up better to being sharpened. The more durable leads do draw a little lighter, so I find I want to layer my colors more than with some of my softer pencils. You can click on the photo above to look at the variety of Staedtler Noris Club pencil sets available at Amazon. My set has 36 colors, which gives me a number of options when I am coloring and drawing on the go.
I’ve shared about the Staedtler Triplus Fineliners before, but it bears repeating. These are wonderful markers for both drawing, coloring and journaling. The colors are intense and I can use them for hours without the marker drying up. They are labeled “Dry Safe: can be left uncapped for days without drying up”. I haven’t tested that personally, since I live in a very dry environment. I have had other markers dry up on me while I am working, and that has never been an issue with these.
Whether you are crocheting or coloring I hope you are having a wonderful summer. I’ll try to get another blog post up before I leave for ChainLink, but no guarantees.
Just last Thursday I released my latest design in my Ravelry Shop: Cliffhouse Cowl. This is a fun textured cowl worked using 2 colors. It’s name is a tribute to Mesa Verde National Park. Some of my readers may remember my family and I made a trip there in 2017.
I wanted to design a cowl that reminded me of the alcoves where the various cliff dwellings were built. To get the feel of the buildings in the alcove I used X-stitches. I also used X-stitches as the mesh for the main body of the cowl, for a stretchy and breathable fabric in the final project.
I’ve shared often about my favorite stitch the “V-stitch” on my blog regularly. It is a fairly simple stitch that offers a lot of choices in how it is worked.
The X-stitch is my favorite “trickier” stitch. There are still a lot of options in the fabric that can be made using the X-stitch, but the instructions can be a bit challenging to understand, especially if you are newer to crochet. In this project it is worked in turned rounds and the Xs are “stacked” on top of each other.
I am currently working on a photo tutorial for working the X-stitch both as a “stacked” stitch and as a “staggered” stitch, so if you are having a hard time with this stitch help is coming soon.
Mamas2Hands 