Remembering Mom

I didn’t want to share sad news on my birthday pattern post, but for those of you that like to keep up with what is happening, there has been a milestone in my life. My 80 year old mother passed away the morning of the 12th of October. She died from complications from Covid19. But even before this sad event, we had lost our mother a piece at a time over the past 15 years. My mom had Alzheimers, and was often confused about who we were the past couple years.

She is the one that first placed a crochet hook in my hand, and was an amazing knitter, though she never taught me to knit. In the last year or so she could no longer remember how to crochet or knit. She could still wind a ball of yarn and the folks at the facility where she lived would often give her yarn to wind, she would even teach other residents how to wind the yarn.

Now, you would assume that with Mom teaching me to crochet that she would have been excited about my career choice of the past 10 years. Sadly that is not the case, my mother and I had what one might call a “difficult” relationship. I could never figure out if it was because we were too similar or too different.

Our similarity is striking for those that know both of us. I look a great deal like her and have the exact same voice. When I visited her 20 years ago in the town she had moved to in Northwest Kansas, I would walk into a local shop on my own and the people there would say, “You must be Wilha’s daughter.” She would jokingly say, “You poor thing,” when people would say I looked like her. She didn’t like the way she looked, but I’ve always thought my mom was beautiful and was happy people saw her in me.

One of our biggest differences is my habit of saying “What If”. I always annoyed my mom because I would change patterns all the time, whether it was crocheting or sewing. I always saw a different way I wanted to do things. I think that meant I was destined to be a designer. Once I did started getting my crochet designs published, mom would offer criticisms no matter what I created. It wasn’t until years later that I found out she was always showing her neighbors and friends my published work and bragging about me.

Mom on the left laughing with her friend Isla.

Mom and I had some great times together though. She could make me laugh so hard. When we would get to laughing it would go on for 30 minutes or more. Sometimes it would be the silliest things that would get us going and then we couldn’t look at each other or we would start up again.

We went on a trip to Tucson, Arizona together when I was 5 months pregnant with my first child. She was running a T-shirt booth at a music festival and I went with her to help. One evening I lay down on the bed in our hotel room and couldn’t get up because of my baby bump. We both were laughing so hard she couldn’t help me get up.

When I moved to my home in the mountains we stayed in touch with monthly 3 – 4 hour phone calls. We both loved the Fire Mountain catalog and “Bead & Button” magazine, when the newest version came in the mail we would call each other and page thru it together. In her 50s she had taken up bead weaving, something I used to tease her about because threading those fine needles was a complete pain. We had many a chuckle about how you had to hold your mouth just right to thread a needle. I often laugh to myself when trying to thread a needle myself these days, because I hear her voice.

She grew up on farms and ranches in Kansas and Texas. Sometimes she would joke that she learned to ride a horse before she learned to walk. She loved horses right up to the end. I had sent her a pop-up birthday card with a herd of horses in it for her birthday this year. She also adored dogs. The photo above is Mom with her Sarah Dog at my wedding. I had the startling realization this week that I am now the same age as my mother was on my wedding day.

I designed my “One Skein Joy Slippers” because I wanted to make her some warm slippers for Christmas a couple years ago. When I was growing up, every Christmas morning there would be new slippers under the tree for each family member. Mom was an amazing knitter, but I wanted to relive that Christmas feeling with a crocheted version of the slippers.

It has been a big adjustment to know my mother is no longer in this world, but I comfort myself that she is now free of pain and confusion. Someone said to me a day after Mom was gone that she is watching over me, if that is the case I’m sure she is trying to get my attention to give me “constructive criticism” on my latest designs. Rest in Peace Mom, you were definitely one-of-a-kind.

Note: I’ve been a bit delayed getting this post up. This past weekend 2 wildfires took off very near where I live and my family and I had to evacuate to stay with my sister-in-law. We are currently waiting out the fires and hoping for a quick resolution. Things are a bit hairy, but I took a lot of yarn and my computers with me. I don’t have my usual arsenal of props and so forth, but I hope to continue with my design and blogging work while we weather this latest surprise 2020 has thrown at us.

Pebbled Star Afghan Square

Oh wow! The past couple of weeks have been really crazy for me, I’ll share more about that later. The question right now is how did we get to October and my birthday again?! That means it is time for a fun pattern as a gift to all my dear readers to celebrate. This pattern is available free to all of you here on my blog, but if you would prefer a PDF version with stitch charts, is available for purchase in my Ravelry Shop.

I’m really happy with this afghan square, I had a lot of fun changing directions with the center square becoming a diamond shape, as well as the fun textures of the little clusters and surface single crochet. This square is #21 in the Moogly 2020 Afghan CAL, you can find the other gorgeous squares designed by lots of my other crochet blogging friends.

Tamara’s version of my square crocheted in gorgeous purples.

Pebbled Star Afghan Square

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size: 12” square

Materials:

Yarn – Worsted weight yarn in 4 colors : Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

  • Color A: #1401 Pewter
  • Color B: #1805 Bluebell
  • Color C: #1969 Wintergreen
  • Color D: #1101 Eggshell

Hook – J / 6mm

Notions – Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge: First 7 rounds of pattern = 4” across square


Abbreviations/Special Stitches

  • (RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
  • (WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
  • (PM) Place Marker
  • (Cl) 3 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.
  • (Fan) Fan Stitch: [(dc, ch 1) 3 times, dc] in indicated place.
  • (sl st loosely) Loose slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.
  • (sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
  • (V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
  • (sc2tog) Single Crochet 2 together: Insert hook in first st, YO, pull up a loop, insert hook in second st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
  • (FPsc) Front Post Single Crochet: These are the surface single crochets worked around the post of the single crochets in Rnds 11 and 15.

Pattern Notes:

  • Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.
  • First 2 rounds are worked without turning, then Rounds 3-8 are worked in turned rounds. Round 9 will be joined and worked in same direction as Round 8. Rounds 10 – 15 are worked in turned rounds. Rounds 16-19 are worked without turning. It is important that Cluster stitch rounds are worked as wrong side rounds to be sure that they “pop” to the right side of the square.
  • Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
  • Stitch counts at the end of each round and row are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round or row.
  • When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches.
  • Surface crochet embellishment will be worked after square is finished. When working surface crochet stitches be sure to keep tension loose so that stitches sit squarely on the surface.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with Color A. Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd chain from hook, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [8 sc]

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd.  PM in each ch-2 sp to mark corners. [12 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 3 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, Cl in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [16 sc, 4 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 4 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made,* sc in next 5 sts] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next 2 sts, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [28 sc {7 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 5 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, [*Cl in next st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc next st, Cl next st,* sc next 3 sts] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in last 2 sts, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd.   [28 sc, 8 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 6 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in sts to end of Rnd, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [44 sc {11 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 7 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next 3 st, Cl in next st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, Cl in next st, sc next 3 sts, Cl next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd.  [40 sc, 12 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 8 (RS): Repeat Rnd 6. [60 sc {15 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 9 (RS): Change to Color B. With RS facing attach yarn at first sc on left corner.  Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, Fan in next st, skip 2 sts, (sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) 2 times*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [32 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 Fan, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, sc next st, ch 1, skip next 3 sts/sps, (V-st next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st) 2 times, V-st next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next 3 sts/sps, sc next st, sc next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc next st, ch 1 skip next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [32 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 12 V-st, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts/sps, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next 4 sts/sps, sc2tog next st and sp, sc in next 5 sts/sps, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-1 sp,  sc in next 5 sts/sps, sc2tog next sp and st,* sc in next 4 sts/sps] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next st, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [88 sc, 8 sc2tog, 8 ch-2 sp]

Round 12 in progress, moving corner stitch markers.

Rnd 12 (WS): Change to Color C. With WS facing, attach new yarn in first sc at right corner, ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*ch 1, skip 1 st, sc next st, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc next st, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc next st, ch 1 , slip st in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp at point of star, ch 1,* sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [ 16 V-st, 16 dc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Round 12 finished and new corners marked.

Rnd 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in same st as join, [*loose slip st in next ch-1 sp, skip slip st, loose slip st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st, hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next 2 sts, (V-st next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts) 2 times, V-st next ch-1 sp, Fan in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to middle ch-1 sp of Fan, V-st in next ch-1 sp, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp) 2 times, ch 1, skip 2 sts, hdc in next ch-1 sp*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd.  [8 ch-1 sp, 8 sc, 8 hdc, 8 loose slip st, 24 V-st, 4 Fan]

Rnd 14 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc and hdc in next st, skip next 2 sts/sps, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-1 sp, move stitch marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, dc next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts/sps, hdc and sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 2 loose slip sts, sc in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [ 24 ch-1 sp, 16 sc, 32 hdc, 24 dc, 8 V-st, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 15 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st and sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [136 sc {34 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 16 – 19 (RS): Change to Color D.  Ch 1, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off at end of Rnd 19.

  • Rnd 16 count [144 sc {36 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
  • Rnd 17 count [152 sc {38 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
  • Rnd 18 count [160 sc {40 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
  • Rnd 19 count [168 sc {42 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
Completed thru Round 19.

Surface Crochet Outlines

If you are not familiar with working surface single crochet you may find it easier to work the surface crochet first on Rnd 15. If you want to work the surface crochet before finishing the square, complete Rnd 12 before doing the surface crochet on Rnd 11, and complete Rnd 16 before doing the surface crochet on Rnd 15.

Surface single crochet around stitches of Rnd 11:

With Color D attach yarn with a standing sc around the post of any of the sc along a straight edge before a side point, [continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the side point ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the slip st from Rnd 12 as the “post”, continue with FPsc around the post of each Rnd 11 sc until reach the corner point ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the inside strands of the 2 dc from Rnd 12 as the “post”] 4 times, continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the beginning of your surface crochet round, slip st to join to first FPsc of round. [112 FPsc {14 between each point counting 1 point]

Surface crochet/FP sc around posts of Rnd 15:

Inserting hook using inside strands of the 2 corner sc from Round 16.

With Color A attach yarn with a standing sc around the post of any of the sc along a straight edge before a corner ch-2 sp, [continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the inside strands of the 2 sc from Rnd 16 as the “post”] 4 times, continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the beginning of your surface crochet round, slip st to join to first FPsc of round. [144 FPsc {36 each side counting 1 corner}]

Finishing

Weave in tails and block.

Josephine Cloche Crochet Pattern

I’m so excited to be part of the 4th Annual Stitch & Hustle Blog Hop: The Perfect Picot. Links to visit the other participating designers patterns are after this pattern, as well as a link to the “Win All You Need to Make This” Giveaway information. A big Thank You to WeCrochet.com for providing the yarn for all these designs.

Picots are a stitch that I love for edgings because they add a visual texture that creates a finished look. For this pattern I have incorporated the picot stitch for the edging on the brim of the hat and each flower has picots for additional texture and shaping of the petals. If you have a hard time working picots you can check out my blog post: Don’t Fear the Picot with photo tutorials to help you see how I work them. I have also included a mini photo tutorial in the instructions for Flower 1 to help you with the picots worked into the cluster stitches.

I hope you enjoy my pattern for this fun Cloche Hat. I named it after my Great Aunt Josephine, who was quite the style maven in the 1920s. I’ve always loved looking at old photos of her from those years and she was my inspiration.

I have been wanting to design a winter hat that shaded my eyes a bit during the winter as our Colorado winters can be very sunny. I have lots of summer hats that provide plenty of shade from the sun, but most of my winter hats are beanie styles. The drunken brim on this hat is has just enough extension to give a little protection, while the wool yarn makes for a lovely warm hat perfect for the colder weather.

Josephine Cloche

designed by Andee Graves

Pattern Details

Skill Level: Intermediate

Stitches used – Chain (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Half Double Crochet (hdc), Double Crochet (dc), Cluster (Cl), Extended Double Crochet (Exdc), Picot (picot)

Size: Finished size 23 inches head circumference at beginning of brim.

Materials:

Yarn – We Crochet “Swish Worsted”, 100% Fine Superwash Merino Wool (50 g; 110yds), #4 weight category

Color A – #25630 Rainforest Heather (Dark Teal)

Color B – #26067 Wonderland Heather (Pale Aqua)

Color C – #25147 Amethyst Heather (Deep Purple)

Color D – #26068 Conch (Bright Peach)

Hook – H (5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

yarn/tapestry needle,

16 stitch markers in 2 colors: 8 in first color, 8 in second color

Gauge:  Diameter of first 6 Rnds of Crown, also 9 rows and 16 sts of double crochet worked in the Rnd, both = 4 inches (10 cm)

Special Stitches/Abbreviations:

Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.

Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.

Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.

PM (Place Marker)

Pattern Notes:

This hat is worked crown down with standard increases in continuous rounds for the first 13 rounds, then worked is turned so that the front of the previous rounds’ stitches become the wrong side of fabric.

The band of the hat is worked in joined rounds with short rows worked to create an asymmetrical shaping. All band rounds and short rows are worked in the same direction.  I have included a photo of how I used stitch markers to help me keep track of where the stitch heights change. I used a different color marker for the regular band rounds from the markers for the short rows.

After band is finished work is turned again. Next a flared “drunken” brim is worked in joined rounds, without turning. Then work is turned to crochet the edging. If a more structured brim is desired the edging can be crocheted over millinery wire to stiffen.

Flowers are worked separately and can be sewn to the hat band or sewn to a pin backing to attach to hat.

Instructions

Crown

Rnd 1: Start with Color A using an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (1 sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd ch from hook. PM in last hdc with first color st marker. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st, PM in 2nd hdc made using second color st markers 7 times, move last st marker to last st made. [16 hdc]

Rnds 3-10: Hdc in each unmarked st, 2 hdc in each marked st moving st marker to 2nd st made. At end of Rnd 10 remove all markers except last st marker. [Count at end of Rnd 10 – 80 hdc]

Rnds 11 – 13: Hdc in each st to last st, move st marker up to last st of Rnd.

Step down at end of Rnd 13: Sc in next st, loosely sl st in next st, sl st in next st. Fasten off Color A, change to Color B.

Band

Rnd 1: Continue with Color B, ch 1, turn, sc in loose sl st from step down, sc next 6 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]

Short Row 1: With Color C. Attach new yarn with sl st at 10th st from beginning of previous Rnd, sc next 10 sts, hdc next 10 sts, dc next 20 sts, hdc next 10 sts, sc next 10 sts, sl st next st, fasten off yarn. [20 sc, 20 hdc, 20 dc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc next 7 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]

Short Row 2: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 3: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 4: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 4: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 5: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off Color B, change to Color A.

Brim

Rnd 1: Continue with Color A, ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st around, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [80 hdc]

Rnd 2: Using 8 st markers PM in 3rd st then in every 10th st around, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in marked sts moving st marker to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [88 hdc]

Rnd 3: Add a st marker in 5th st past current st markers, total of 16 markers, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [104 hdc]

Rnd 4 & 5: Ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [end of Rnd 5 – 136 hdc]

Rnd 6 (Picot edging): Ch 1, turn, sc next 2 sts, picot in sc just made, (sc next 4 sts, picot in last sc just made) 33 times, sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [136 sc, 34 picot]

All flowers start with an adjustable slip knot, if substituting magic circle ch 1 at start instead of ch 2.

Flower 1

Rnd 1: Color D, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.


Flower 2

Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, dc, 3 Exdc, dc, hdc, sc) in ch-3 sp, skip to next ch-3 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 of Rnd.

Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, sc next st, (sc, picot in sc just made, sc) in next st, sc in next st, ch 2, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc] 5 times. Fasten off

Flower 3 

Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, [(sc, ch 5, sc) in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 5 times, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-5 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, 2 dc, Exdc, ch 1, Exdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-5 sp] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 sp.

Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, {(sc, picot in sc just made) in next st/ch sp} 3 times, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc,] 5 times. Fasten off

Finishing

Weave in tails for hat.

Stack Flowers sandwiching flower 2 between 1 and 3. Use tails to sew them together referencing photo for staggering of petals.

Finish by sewing flowers to hat band where the pink X is shown in photo, or sew to a pin backing to make removable.

A PDF version of this pattern is available in my Ravelry Shop and includes stich charts for the flowers and crown. You can purchase it by clicking here: BUY NOW.

You can visit all the other designers in the Perfect Picot Blog Hop using the links below:

Be sure to enter the drawing for the fantastic giveaway “Win All You Need to Make This”. There will be 5 lucky winners for 5 different groups of designs. The drawing is open Worldwide and ends October 9th. Visit the Stitch & Hustle blog hop main post for all the details.

2 Needles instead of 1 Hook

The last month or so I’ve had a “hobby” project I have been playing with. I actually can’t recall exactly when I started this project. I had a smallish ball of bright blue yarn that I decided would be good for practicing knitting. I’m really not all that great at knitting, though I can knit a pretty decent garter stitch scarf. I cast on 15 stitches with the idea being to knit a few rows whenever I felt I had a little time and wanted a little knitting practice.

Sometimes the project got stuck in the bottom of my project bag for weeks at a time. Then I would take it out and knit a few rows. About a month ago I decided to finally finish up the blue yarn. My tension wasn’t always great, but I made fairly quick progress towards finishing it and I began to think about what I wanted to do with it next. I knew it wasn’t going to be very long, so wouldn’t really work as a skinny scarf.

Instead I decided to use some colorful variegated yarn to pick up stitches along the length of the blue piece. I had in mind the idea of creating a cuddly garter stitch wrap for wearing when the cooler weather arrives here on my mountain. It would also give me a chance to practice decreasing in knitting.

I really like the way the picked up stitches created a ridge on the side of the blue piece that reminds me of crocheted “crab stitch” or reverse single crochet

I had a lot of fun knitting this section of the wrap. The colorful changes as each row was completed kept me quite entertained. I decided to decrease on just one edge every 4th row. After a few times of missing my decrease row I added some of my locking stitch markers to help me keep track better.

Now I’m trying to decide if I want to add more to this wrap and play with another knitting technique like short rows, or maybe I will decrease every other row to make a sharper angle? Or I could just call it finished. This has been a great practice piece so far. I am actually happier with my weaving in of tails where I added a new ball of yarn. I always feel like I ruin my knitting when I weave in my tails, so it’s nice to be happy with that aspect finally.

Now I just need to work on my skills doing the purl stitch and increasing in knitting. In the meantime there are lots of crochet designs on my work table that I am hoping to share with you the next couple of months.

Learning Some New Stuff

I’m excited to announce that I will be teaching 3 crochet classes and 1 Needle-felting class via Zoom for the Longmont Yarn Shoppe this fall. I’ve been learning about teaching on Zoom and am really looking forward to this opportunity. Especially as this gives my readers that aren’t local a chance to take a class with me from the comfort of their own home. Keep in mind that I am in Colorado so the times listed below are Mountain time zone.

The 3 Crochet Classes are:

Strawberry Fields Crochet Shawlette: Class will be held in two sessions, the first will be Friday, October 2nd from 9 – 10 a.m., the second will be Friday, October 16th from 10 a.m. – 12 p.m.  In the first session of class, you will learn how to work the mesh body of the shawl, then the 2nd session of class will be adding the lace border. This will include tips and tricks on how to keep track of your lace repeats, using wet blocking to really “open” the fabric of your shawlette, and tips on how to make a larger shawl if desired.You can register for this class on the Longmont Yarn Shoppe website here.

Crochet Slippers 101: Class will be held in two 1.5 hour sessions on Friday, October 23rd & 30th from 9:30 – 11 a.m. This class is project centered and uses my One Skein Joy Slippers pattern to introduce students to making crocheted slippers. In class you’ll learn the tricks for completing your slippers without tears, crocheting 2 at a time, a handy elastic crochet ribbing, and some fun tips for personalizing your slippers as well.You can register for this class on the Longmont Yarn Shoppe website here.

Crochet Slippers 102: Class will be held in two 1.5 hour sessions on Friday, November 13th & 20th from 9:30 – 11 a.m. In this class students will learn how to modify One Skeins Joy Slipper pattern to use it with any weight of yarn with an appropriate hook to make slippers that will fit every time. You can register for this class on the Longmont Yarn Shoppe website here.

Needle Felting Class

Itty Bitty Angel: Class will be held in one session on Sunday, November 15th from 10a – Noon. Come learn how to create these adorable compact angels that can be jewelry, toys or little ornaments. They are perfect for using up bits of wool yarn and loose fiber from other needle felting projects. You can register for this class on the Longmont Yarn Shoppe website here.

Happy Handy Half Double Crochet

The half double crochet stitch (UK terminology = Half Treble Crochet HTC) is one of the most versatile stitches in your crochet toolbox. Whether worked in rows or in the round the fabric you create has the solidness of single crochet stitches with the stretch of double crochet stitches. It is my preferred stitch to use for hats and slippers because of the stretch and cushioning quality of the finished fabric.

How to make the Half Double Crochet stitch

To make a half double crochet you wrap the yarn over once, then insert you hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over again,

pull up a loop thru the stitch you are working into, you now have 3 loops on your hook,

yarn over and pull thru all 3 loops on the hook.

Sometimes it can be a little difficult to get thru all 3 loops, one trick I use is to gently hold the loops between my thumb and forefinger of the yarn-holding hand. This allows me to ease thru the loops as I pull the final loop thru.

The completed half double crochet stitch from the front is pictured above. The yellow loop is the top of your stitch, the orange loop is the first yarn-over, the red loop is the second yarn-over, the loop on the hook is the final yarn-over.

The completed half double crochet from the back is pictured above. This is the way the stitches look to you when you are working turned rows. That first yarn over creates a floating “back bar” on the back of each stitch. Because of this back bar there are many different ways to work securely into the hdc to create subtle textures, and to take advantage of the shaping options in fabric worked with hdc.

When worked in the round the back of the fabric with have an almost flat smooth texture making it very comfortable to wear next to the skin. It is also great to use as the “right-side” of your fabric for a less textured appearance.

HDC Textures Swatch Patterns

  • The following patterns will help you experiment with the ways you can work into the hdc. These little swatches make handy coasters for your cold drinks while the weather is so hot here in the states.
  • For the swatches worked in rows do NOT work into the turning chain, instead let the turning chains “float” along the side of your work.
  • All swatches were worked using worsted weight yarn with a size I-9 (5.5mm) hook. Play with different yarn weights and hook sizes to see what kind of fabric you can create.
Swatch 1 Front View (RS)
Swatch 1 Back View (WS)

Swatch 1 – Standard HDC rows

Row 1: Ch 16, hdc in back bump of 3rd ch from hook, hdc in back bump of each ch to end of row. [14 hdc]

Row 2: Ch 2, turn, hdc in top of each st to end of row.

Rows 3 – 11: Repeat Row 2.

Swatch 2 Front View (RS)
Swatch 2 Back View (WS)

Swatch 2 – Alternate regular rows with back bar & front loop rows

Row 1: Ch 16, hdc in back bump of 3rd ch from hook, hdc in back bump of each ch to end of row. [14 hdc]

Working into back bar and front loop of stitches

Row 2: Ch 2, turn, hdc in back bar and front loop of each st to end of row.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn, hdc in top of each st to end of row.

Rows 4 – 11: Repeat Row 2 and 3, ending with a Row 3.

Swatch 3 Front View (RS)
Swatch 3 Back View (WS)

Swatch 3 – Alternate using top of st and back bar & front loop of st

Row 1: Ch 16, hdc in back bump of 3rd ch from hook, hdc in back bump of each ch to end of row. [14 hdc]

Row 2: Ch 2, turn,* hdc in top of next st, hdc using back bar and front loop next st*; repeat from * to * til reach end of row.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn,* hdc using back bar and front loop next st, hdc in top of next st*; repeat from * to * til reach end of row.

Rows 4 – 10: Repeat Row 2 and 3, ending with a Row 2.

Row 11: Ch 2, turn, hdc in top of each st to end of row.

Swatch 4 Front View (RS)
Swatch 4 Back View (WS)

Swatch 4 – Rows worked in front loop

Row 1: Ch 16, hdc in back bump of 3rd ch from hook, hdc in back bump of each ch to end of row. [14 hdc]

Working into Front Loop only

Row 2: Ch 2, turn, hdc in front loop of each st across row.

Rows 3 – 11: Repeat Row 2.

Swatch 5 Front View (RS)
Swatch 5 Back View (WS)

Swatch 5 – Continuous rounds with standard increase

Rnd 1: Ch 2, sc and 7 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in next 8 sts. [16 hdc]

Rnd 3: *hdc in next st, 2 hdc next st*; repeat from * to * 7 times. [24 hdc]

Rnd 4: *hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc next st*; repeat from * to * 7 times. [32 hdc]

Rnd 5: *hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc next st*; repeat from * to * 7 times. [40 hdc]

Rnd 6: *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc next st*; repeat from * to * 7 times. [48 hdc]

Step down: Hdc next st, sc next st, loosely slip st next st, slip st next st. Fasten off.

Swatch 6 Front View (RS)
Swatch 6 Back View (WS)

Swatch 6 – Continuous rounds worked in back loop and back bar with standard increase

Rnd 1: Ch 2, sc and 7 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in first st, 2 hdc using back loop and back bar in next 7 sts. [16 hdc]

Rnd 3: *hdc using back loop and back bar in next st, 2 hdc using back loop and back bar next st*; repeat from * to * 7 times. [24 hdc]

Rnd 4: *hdc using back loop and back bar in next 2 sts, 2 hdc using back loop and back bar next st*; repeat from * to * 7 times. [32 hdc]

Rnd 5: *hdc using back loop and back bar in next 3 sts, 2 hdc using back loop and back bar next st*; repeat from * to * 7 times. [40 hdc]

Rnd 6: *hdc using back loop and back bar in next 4 sts, 2 hdc using back loop and back bar next st*; repeat from * to * 7 times. [48 hdc]

Step down: Working in back loop and back bar, hdc next st, sc next st, loosely slip st next st, slip st next st. Fasten off.

When using the same size yarn and hook for both Swatch 5 and 6 you can compare the sizes of the 2 swatches. Working into the back loop and back bar creates a smaller circle, and a slightly denser fabric.

If you are interested in trying more of my designs that use the half double crochet stitch check these out…

Spiraling Stripes Hat – M2H Designs Ravelry Shop

One Skein Joy Slippers

Image of finished slippers with pom pom decoration.

Every Christmas morning when I was a child my whole family always received hand-knitted slippers from my mom. We wore them until they were nearly tattered or we had outgrown them. In honor of that memory I designed the “One Skein Joy Slippers” in crochet. The first pair I made were a gift for my mom for Christmas 2017.

Green un-decorated slippers.

You only need one skein of Berocco Worsted Weight Ultra Wool to make a pair of slippers that fit a US Women’s size 7.5/8. They were originally published in the December 2018 issue of the online magazine “I Like Crochet”, the pattern is now available for sell in my Ravelry Shop. The PDF version of the pattern includes stitch charts and photo tutorials to help you successfully crochet up some slippers for yourself.

I will also be teaching this project as a Zoom class thru the Longmont Yarn Shoppe in late October. I’ll provide the link to class registration here as soon as it is available. The class will be taught in two 1.5 hour segments to give students time to complete work between classes and will be called “Crochet Slippers 101”. I will also be teaching a follow-up class, “Crochet Slippers 102” later in November that will expand on this pattern so you can work the slippers for various sizes of feet.

Strawberry Fields Shawlette

Well there has certainly been a lot keeping me busy the past 3 months. One of the things I have been spending a lot of time on has been writing up patterns for designs that I had created over the past year.

I finished crocheting this shawlette back in November, but never got around to blocking it until now. I used some gorgeous superwash merino that I purchased at my local yarn shop, Longmont Yarn Shoppe. The yarn is from Farmers Daughter Fibers, they create gorgeous hand dyed colors that make me drool. This yarn is called “Squish Worsted” and it truly is very squishy and snuggly.

My plan for this shawlette is for a warm layer to wrap around my neck with my burgundy winter coat. I love the dramatic border for those days that are warm enough to leave my coat open.

I used almost all of the skein of variegated yarn for the body of the shawl, then all but a quarter of the solid color for the border. The pattern is available in my Ravelry shop and includes stitch charts for both the simple mesh of the body and the lace border.

This shawlette works up fairly quickly, so if you are thinking about crafting for Christmas this would be a great gift for someone special on your gift list (or something special to spoil yourself with).

Christmas is in the Bag

Last Christmas I was frustrated by the amount of wrapping paper waste in my house after all the gifts were opened. I try to use sturdy gift bags as much as possible so they can be re-used from year to year, eventually they start to fall apart. Then I had a thought, “What if I made fabric gift bags that could be re-used and even washed.”

I visited the January fabric sale at my local JoAnns and stocked up on some great Christmas quilting cotton with this goal in mind. Once I got all the fabrics home I ran them all thru the washer and dryer at high temperatures to pre-shrink them.

Since then I have played about with a couple of design ideas for bags. Today’s pattern is super simple. It can work as a gift wrap bag, but it can also work great as a shopping or project bag (for a crochet, knitting or embroidery project). Sew it up in a fun fabric for a great stocking stuffer gift. You can even slide a gift card inside the folded bag before flipping the flap closed.

This bag is a good project to develop your sewing skills. It is made in cotton quilting fabric and all raw edges are finished to prolong the life of the bag. All seams are straight. Side and box bottom seams are “french seams”.  

The pocket construction and placement are the most challenging part of the project. I wanted to be able to store the bag in it’s own pocket. The bag folds up and then flips inside the pocket, with the flap flipping over to secure the bag as a simple package to store neatly until you need it. If you just want a drawstring bag you can skip the pocket.

For ease of construction the drawstring channel and pocket are sewn in place on the single layer of the bag body before the bag side seams are sewn. Top hem of bag opening is sewn last.

Handy as a Pocket Bag Sewing Pattern

designed by Andee Graves

Finished size:

Small bag – 11 inches  x 12 inches  

Large bag – 18 inches  x 19 inches

Measurements going forward are given for small bag and measurements for large bag are in square brackets [ ].

Materials

Quilting Cotton woven fabric: 3/4 yard [1 ¼ yard]

Ribbon or Cord for drawstring: 52” [72”]

Sewing thread

Instructions

Each bag uses 4 rectangular pieces of fabric; width measurement is the across the grain of fabric, length is with the grain of fabric (parallel to selvage).

Piece A, Body of Bag: Cut 1 – 12” [17”] wide  x 30” [40”] long or 2 – 12” [17”] wide x 15 ½” [20 ½”] long

Piece B, Drawstring Channel: Cut 2 – 9 ½” [13 ½”] wide x 2” [2”] long

Piece C, Pocket: Cut 1 – 5” [6”] wide x 15 ½” [17 ½”] long (flap on pocket uses 3” [4”] of length, if you don’t want the flap to secure the bag when folded, take that amount off length)

Drawstring Channels (B):

Fold over ¼” to wrong-side of fabric along short ends and press. Fold over ¼” to wrong-side of fabric along long edges and press.

Clip corners to reduce bulk. Fold over short ends an additional ¼”. Top stitch at short ends to secure hem.

Pin in place centered wrong-side on right-side of Piece A 2” below and running parallel with top edge of bag. Top stitch 1/8” in from edge of each long side leaving short ends open.

Tip: Easy centering of drawstring channel and pocket. Fold Piece A in half lengthwise and mark center of short edges. Fold channel pieces in half widthwise and mark center of long side, fold finished pocket in half lengthwise and mark center of short ends. Align all center marking correct distance apart and pin in place.

Pocket (C): Fold pocket piece in half lengthwise with wrong-sides together, press at fold.

Fold down another 1 ½” [2”] and press. Bring the long length from the bottom over the so the right-sides are together and wrong-sides are facing out. Press at fold.

Piece of fabric will look like a tall capital M. Folded edge is top of pocket.

Pin along sides and bottom.

Sew ¼ inch seam along all raw edges leaving a 1 ½” opening in center at bottom edge.

Clip bottom corners being careful not to cut seam.

Tip: When leaving opening leave long threads.

Then pull threads to one side of seam and tie in square knot. This will keep bottom seam from coming un-done while turning pocket right-side out.

Turn right-side out, being sure to get all corners fully turned and squared up. Fold in a ¼” seam at opening. Press flat.

Pin in place flap side down centered on right-side of Piece A, 1 ½” below bottom of drawstring channel. Top stitch 1/8” in from edge of pocket down from fold, along bottom (securing turning opening) and up other side.

Body of Bag:

Fold Piece A widthwise with wrong-sides together and all edges squarely matched. Press along fold to make a crease for later reference.

French side seams: Sew slightly less than ¼” seams from fold to top edge of each side.

Turn wrong-side out and gently pull seams so stitching is right at side edges when folded with right-sides together.

Sew slightly more than ¼” seams along each side again, seam doesn’t need to go all the way to the fold.

Press enclosed seams to one side of seam so they are opposite of each other.

Turn bag right side out. You may need to trim some stray threads if your raw edges were super frayed.

Box Bottom: Shape box bottom corners by laying second side seam stitching line along bottom crease line.

Decide how wide a box bottom you want and mark line on right-side of fabric. (In sample I choose a 4” box bottom, so my line was 3 ½” wide). These will be french seams.

Sew along the marked line. Then trim off corner within ¼” of sewn line.

Turn inside out and flatten out box bottom seams. Sew slightly more than ¼” seam to finish seam.

Finished Box Bottom seam on Right-side

Opening Hem: Turn right-side out and flatten bag to check that top edge is even, if it isn’t trim it even.

Fold over ¼” to wrong-side all around opening. Then fold over an additional ½”. Press and pin in place.

Sew top stitching to secure hem (or if you prefer blind stitch the hem). This can also be a fun place to use a decorative stitch.

Drawstrings:

Cut ribbon (or cord) length in half, thread thru channels in both directions and

knot end of each ribbon together.

Storing Bag in Pocket

Folding up the bag into its pocket is easy. Lay bag with pocket facing down. Fold down top edge of bag to cover pocket,

repeat with bottom,

then each side.

Flip pocket to outside so all folded parts of bag are inside the pocket. You can now see the flap of the pocket,

flip the flap over the open end of the pocket and your handy bag is ready to be stored for later use.

As I was working on this project I made a number of mistakes and missteps, partially due to not being used to my new sewing machine and because my time for this blog post got a little squeezed. I left in the less than perfect images though because I think the imperfections are what makes us human. So be human and have fun making some colorful bags for your Christmas or just for the fun of making a special bag.

This project is part of the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. Come join the fun! 31 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, sewing, and crafting projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week will have a theme.

Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens
Week 2 (July 8-14): Women
Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone
Week 4 (July 22-28): Home
Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets

We’ve also partnered with some of our favorite companies to get some great prizes for you. Find out more information about participating designers, the schedule, and how to enter to win the prizes on Underground Crafter. The deadline for entering the giveaway is Tuesday, August 4, 2020 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.

How To Join the 2020 Christmas in July Make Along

  • You can join in by crocheting, knitting, sewing, or making the projects as you have time.
  • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CIJMakeAlong2020 on all social media.
  • If you’d like to chat with other crafters, join the Underground Crafters Facebook group
  • By the end of the Make Along, you’ll have up to 31 awesome projects. Get ready for the handmade holiday season while having fun with us!

Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along post as it is released.

Crochet Really Round Circles

Have you ever noticed how working a flat circle in larger sizes with regular increases you end up with a polygon shape. The stitches between the increase points make a flat edge. These can be fun shapes, but what if you want the pleasing curve of a really rounded edge for your circle?

Today I’m posting a pattern for a 10 round flat circle that comes out really round, as well as the tips and tricks to make even larger flat rounds that will be really round.

The simple formula to remember for working flat circles is:

Number of stitches in Round 1 = Number of increases in each following round.

You can learn more about the number of stitches recommended for the first round for different stitch heights in my post: Another Pi Day Celebration. For my example today I’m using the half double crochet stitch which needs 8 stitches in the first round.

There are 2 methods of crocheting in the round: Continuous Spiral or Concentric Rounds. For today’s pattern I am using the continuous spiral method. It eliminates the noticeable joins and chains to get to taller stitch heights each round. It does mean you need to keep track of the final stitch in each round. I use a stitch marker that is a different color than my increase stitch markers. If you prefer to work concentric rounds you can apply these same tips for getting a really round circle.

When working circles you want your increases to be evenly spaced each round. My favorite way to keep track of my increases is to use stitch markers. In the case of our half double crochet circle, I place a stitch marker in each stitch at the end of Round 1. I also add my end of round stitch marker in the last stitch.

For all the following rounds I work 2 stitches in the marked stitch then move the stitch marker to the second stitch made. When I work the next round of the circle I crochet 2 stitches in the newly marked stitch and move it up the same way. The photo above shows the end of Round 2 with 8 increase markers (orange) and the last stitch marked with a larger yellow stitch marker.

If I continue increasing in this same style after about 5 rounds it becomes noticeable how the increases line up like the spokes of a wheel. The stitches on the last round will begin to flatten out along the edge giving an octagonal shape instead of a circle. The more rounds worked the more this becomes exaggerated. The photo above shows a completed 10 round circle worked this way.

The trick to creating a really round circle is to break up those “spokes” of increases. The easiest way to do that is to move your increase points before starting the next round. The stitch markers are still really handy, especially as you work larger rounds.

When working circles, whether really round style or the traditional spoke style of increases, the number of stitches in each increase section of your circle will be the same as the Round number you are working. Example (photo above) in Round 4 you will have 3 unmarked stitches and 1 marked stitch for 4 stitches in each section. This holds true no matter what height and number of stitches you begin with in Round 1.

End of Rnd 4 before starting Rnd 5: green arrows indicate where to move Increase St Markers

To break up the spokes of increases you will need to move your increases to the approximate center of each of these sections. Example: after completing Round 4 there are 3 unmarked stitches between each marked stitch. You will shift your stitch markers over to the middle of the unmarked stitches.

Let’s get you started crocheting your first Really Round Circle. For this pattern I have included suggested hook size and the gauge I got, but you can play with hook size and even yarn size to get a fabric that appeals to you. I worked my circles with a worsted weight acrylic yarn, if you used 100% cotton these rounds make great hot pads for your table top.

Really Round Circle

By Andee Graves

Finished Size: 10 Rounds 7.25 inches/18.5 cm diameter (across center),

Gauge: 5 Rounds = 4 inches/10 cm.

Yarn: Worsted Weight Acrylic Yarn, approximately 42 yards/38.4 meters, .67 oz/19 grams for one circle.

Hook: US Size I/9 (5.5.mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: 8 stitch markers in one color (Increase stitch markers), 1 stitch marker in different color (End-of-Round stitch marker), yarn needle for weaving in ends.

Pattern Notes: Stitch counts for each round are shown in italicized square brackets at end. Once you are sure of you count at end of Round 2 or 3, you may find it helpful to weave in the beginning tail to get it out of your way. Always move End-of-Round stitch marker to last stitch of each round as completed.

Instructions

Rnd 1: Start with an adjustable slip knot (YouTube Video here), Ch 2, (sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd chain from hook. Pull gently on beginning tail to tighten center. With increase stitch markers place 1 in each stitch, place End-of-Round stitch marker in last stitch. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each marked st, moving increase stitch markers to second st made in each stitch. [16 hdc]

End of Rnd 2, ready for Rnd 3.

Rnd 3: (Hdc in unmarked st, 2 hdc in marked st, move stitch marker to first st made) 8 times. [24 hdc]

End of Rnd 3, ready for Rnd 4.

Rnd 4: [Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move stitch marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [32 hdc]

Rnd 5: Move each Increase st marker back 2 sts from original marked st. [2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 3 sts] 8 times. [40 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 6.

Rnd 6: Move each Increase st marker forward 2 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [48 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 7.

Rnd 7: Move each Increase st marker back 3 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 4 sts] 8 times. [56 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 8.

Rnd 8: Move each Increase st marker forward 3 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [64 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 9.

Rnd 9: Move each Increase st marker back 4 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 5 sts] 8 times. [72 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 10.

Rnd 10: Move each Increase st marker forward 4 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [80 hdc]

Step Down to finish Circle: Hdc in next st, 2 hdc next st, hdc next 2 sts, sc next st, slip st next 2 sts. Fasten off and weave in ending tail.

Note: If you are wanting to crochet larger circles you may need to experiment with the length of the step-down in for your final round.