Spring Bunny Crochet Pattern

It’s beginning to warm up more days on my mountain and the bunnies are venturing out to see if they can find any fresh greens to nibble. We will still get some snow storms before our real warm weather arrives, but I am enjoying every hour of warmth we get. Easter is coming up this weekend and I have a fun little crochet pattern for you. The written version is below, for those of you that prefer a stitch chart or PDF version you can purchase it in my Ravelry Shop by clicking here.

2 off white flat versions of bunny. Right facing and Left facing on a multi-color circle background.

Spring Bunny

designed by Andee Graves

This fun little bunny can be worked flat facing either left or right. Add your bunny as an embellishment to hats, mittens, sweaters or blankets. Or make the stuffy version for a fun little toy to add to Easter baskets or as a gift for a bunny lover in your life.

Stuffy version of bunny worked in off white yarn laying across a palm to show size. Background is multi-colored crocheted circle.

 Pattern Details

Skill level:  Intermediate

Stitches used: Chain (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Half Double Crochet (hdc), Double Crochet (dc), Treble Crochet (Tr), Ch-4 Picot

 Finished Size: Finished bunny is approximately 4.25” tall

Materials

Yarn: Worsted Weight yarn, #4 weight category,

1 Flat Bunny uses approximately 7-10 yards of yarn. Stuffy Bunny uses approximately 15 – 20 yards of yarn

Sample was made with Premier “Every Day Worsted Anti-Pilling”, 180 yds/165 m, 3.5 oz/100 g,

Hook: H / 5mm or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Yarn/tapestry needle, Poly fiber fill if making stuffy

Gauge: First 2 dc rounds = 2 3/8” (6 cm) diameter

Special Stitches:

Chain 4 Picot (ch-4 Picot) Chain 4, slip stitch in previous stitch made using front loop and top side loop.

Pattern Notes

Round 1 of stitches is worked into an adjustable slip knot, if you prefer the magic circle start, make 1 less chain stitch at the start of Round 1.

For Stuffy version use the scraps left from weaving in the beginning tails and Side 1 ending tail to stuff the bunny’s head.

Instructions for Flat Bunny

Right Facing Bunny

Rnd 1: Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 3 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in third chain from hook, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (12 dc)  Tighten center and weave in beginning tail.  

Rnd 2: Ch 2 {counts as first dc}, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 4 sts, (dc, ch-4 Picot, dc) in next st, 2 dc in each of next 6 sts, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc, 1 ch-4 Picot)

Row 3 (Bunny head): Ch 3 {counts as first Tr}, Tr in same st as join, 3 Tr in next st, *ch 7, working in back bumps of chs just made, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip st thru front loop and top side loop of previous Tr, * {first ear made}, Rep from * to * once, {second ear made}, (dc, ch 2, slip st) in next st. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 6 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc)

Left Facing Bunny

Rnd 1:  Work same as Right Facing Bunny.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 {counts as first dc}, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 7 sts, ch-4 Picot, 2 dc in each of next 4 sts, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc, 1 ch-4 Picot)

Row 3 (Bunny head): Ch 2, dc in same st as join,  *ch 7, working in back bumps of chs just made, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip st thru front loop and top side loop of previous dc, *{first ear made}, Rep from * to * once, {second ear made}, 3 Tr in next st, (Tr, ch 3, slip st) in next st. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 6 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc)

Finishing

Weave in ending tail or use to sew bunny to project.

Instructions for Bunny Stuffy

Side 1 Bunny

Rnds 1 – 2: Work same as Right Facing Flat Bunny. Save beginning tail scrap.

Row 3 (Bunny head): Work same as Right Facing Flat Bunny but work only first Ear. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 4 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc)  Weave in ending tail, saving ending tail scrap.

Side 2 Bunny

Rnds 1 – 2: Work same as Left Facing Flat Bunny. Save beginning tail scrap.

Row 3 (Bunny head): Work same as Left Facing Flat Bunny but work only first Ear. Fasten off leaving 20” long tail. (5 Tr, 4 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc)

Finishing

Holding Side 1 and 2 with WS together, using a whip stitch sew around Rnd 2 of body of bunny from 1 side of head to other, place a bit of fiber fill stuffing inside circle of bunny body. Sew along base of bunny head to close circle.

Sew around head, using a whipstitch and leaving bunny ears free, use beginning tail and ending tail scraps to lightly stuff head before sewing nose.  Weave in last tail and trim excess.

Stuffy version of bunny worked in off white yarn and squished so it sits flat. Bunny is sitting in front of a multi-colored background.

In the image above you can see how I squished my bunny stuffy to make him sit on a flat bottom. I didn’t stuff the body very firmly so that I had some squishability when the bunny was finished.

I hope you are having a wonderful return to spring and enjoy crocheting some bunnies of your own.

Pi Day is Here!

I love March. It is National Crochet Month, National Crafting Month and it has my favorite geeky day…Pi Day.

March 14 is written as 3/14 for most of us here in the US and 3.14 is the short form for Pi. For those of you uncertain what Pi is…it is a mathematical constant that is the ratio of a circle’s circumference to its diameter, approximately equal to 3.14159. It also appears in many formulae across mathematics and physics.

For my crochet design work I tend to use the short form of 3.14. That is more than enough accuracy for creating circles for hats, bags and rugs.

This month I’ve been busy with fun crochet projects at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe. We yarn bombed the tree in front of the shop. My friend Margie in the Casual Crochet group also has us all participating in “Random Acts of Crochet Kindness”. My favorites are the ones made using Googly Eye Finger Puppets.

Like this snuggly “Pocket Hug”. If you would like to make your own Pocket Hug I’ve included the pattern here today. I had fun coming up with the basic circle that I used for this pattern. I had to get a little creative with how I worked the center of the circle, since it is worked around the ring of the Googly Eye Finger Puppet.

Pocket Hug Pattern

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill Level: Intermediate

Stitches used:  Chain (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Half Double Crochet (hdc), Double Crochet (dc), 2 Double Crochet Cluster (2dcCL),

Materials:

Yarn – Premier “Every Day Worsted Anti-Pilling” 180 yds/165 m, 3.5 oz/100 g, #4 weight category

Hook – H  (5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions – yarn/tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers

Gauge:  3 rounds off puppet ring = 2.5” diameter

Special Stitches/Abbreviations:

CL (2 double crochet Cluster Stitch) –  (yo, insert hook in indicated place, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull thru remaining 4 loops on  hook.

Pattern Notes:

Round 1 of stitches is worked into the finger ring of the googly eye puppet.

Instructions

Circle with Arms

Rnd 1: With googly eyes of puppet facing, attach yarn with a slip st in the puppet finger ring, ch 1, 10 sc in ring, ch 2, bring hook behind googly eyes, sl st to join to first sc worked in ring. (10 sc, 1 ch-2 sp)

Rnd 2: (Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc) in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 9 sts, 4 dc in ch-2 sp, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.  (24 dc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2 {counts as first hdc}, hdc in next st, 2 hdc next st, hdc in next st, ^ ch 6, CL in 3rd st from hook, sc in back bar of each of next 3 chs,  sl st thru front loop and side loop of previous hdc,^ hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, *(hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st)3 times,* Rep from ^ to ^ once, Rep from * to * once, sl st to join to top of beginning ch-2.  (32 hdc, 6 sc, 2 CL)

Heart

This is my Simple Sweetheart pattern from February 2012

Simple Sweetheart
(c)2012 Andee Graves/M2H Designs

Rnd 1: Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. (7 sc)

Rnd 2: Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, (dc, picot, dc) in next st, dc in next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd 1. Fasten off. (14 dc, 1 picot)

Finishing

Use tails for sewing pieces together. Sew Heart to front of Circle below eyes. Fold arms of circle so they are hugging the heart, sew in place. Weave in any remaining tails.

Join me at the 2023 Interweave YarnFest!

I’ve been busy crocheting away on some designs I can’t share yet, but I wanted to be sure to let you know some other fun things coming up this Spring. I’m one of the Instructors for Interweave YarnFest in Loveland, Colorado this year!

Currently workshops are available at the Early Bird pricing through this Friday, February 10th. So hurry on over and pick your workshops now.

I’ll be teaching 4 workshops.

Collage of Various Stitch Charts overlaid with a photo of a snowflake worked in a medium blue thread on a wooden background.

Stitch Chart Bootcamp – Crochet: Workshop is Thursday, April 13th, 9:00 a.m. – Noon.

Have you ever wondered exactly where the next stitch is supposed to go? You know that the stitch chart probably holds the answer to this question. You may have even referred to a chart in a crochet pattern that uses both text and chart, but are you ready to work from only the chart? A whole world of international patterns opens to you when you can decipher stitch charts, even if you don’t understand the written language that accompanies the chart. In this class, you will learn how to work solely from a stitch chart to crochet a lovely motif. You’ll learn what the symbols in the charts stand for, how they may change depending on the country of origin, and the skill to get results that please you when working from the charts alone. The class handout includes over 5 stitch chart patterns for you to practice with.

Different Needle felted angels and animals in front of a medium gray fabric background. 3 angels are displayed on a gold wire hanger, a curly coated sheep is to the left and a dark gray bunny is to the right. A variety of plain roving shapes are in the foreground.

Needle Felting in 3D: Workshop is Thursday, April 13th, 1:30 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.

This is the workshop for you if you have ever wanted to learn how to create something three-dimensional out of wool! Needle felting is a great fiber art for creating sculptural pieces. It is a wonderful medium for making everything from toys to jewelry to art. The possibilities are endless. This session will be all about creating fun and engaging 3D characters and critters with confidence. Learn everything you need to use your felting needle safely and ergonomically. This class also covers the following: creating different shapes from loose fiber and joining them together to make an object that can stand up; using a “frame” to create the base of your three-dimensional pieces; making both “hard” and “soft” felt; and embellishing your sculpture with yarn, beads, and fabric. You will leave class with a full-color booklet of how-tos, your own felting needle, and a bag full of fiber. The class kit will have everything you need to practice in class. I’ll provide work surfaces for students to use during class as well.

Little Needle Felted ball shaped sheep with curly white fleece and brown ears, nose and feet.

Rollie Pollie Sheep – Needlefelting: Workshop is Friday, April 14th, 9:00 a.m. – Noon.

Don’t be Baaaashful! Ewe know you want to learn how to create this adorable cuddly round sheep. This little sheep is a perfect soft toy or decoration for a fiber loving friend. I originally designed my first rollie pollie sheep for a friend’s grandchild. In this workshop, you will be confident with using a variety of needle felting sculptural techniques to create your own lovable little sheep. This project will introduce creating a sphere base form, creating three-dimensional shapes on a base form, and embellishing your sculpture with curly mohair locks. We will also discuss modifications for making your sheep more toddler or baby friendly. Class kit contains everything you need to make one cuddly sheep. I’ll provide work surfaces to use during the class.

3 Hearts, 2 below and 1 above. Top heart is a plum red color, lower 2 are an orange red color. Hearts have cream colored crochet edges. Hearts are on a medium gray fabric background.

Heart Full of Love Pin – Needlefelting: Workshop is Friday, April 14th, 1:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Have you always wanted to try needle felting but you’ve been intimidated by the needles? This class is a great introduction to needle felting! You will learn how to add sculptural needle felting to a simple crocheted base, how to work safely on small projects and create dense durable felt. At the end of the class, you will have at least one little heart pin completed. You can wear your heart on your sleeve or your jacket collar, or give it away to someone you love. The class kit comes with enough supplies to make two heart pins, including a crocheted heart and the yarn to crochet your own little heart. Class handout will include instructions to crochet your own heart. I will also cover how to crochet the heart for students who are interested.

I hope you can join me for one or more of these fun workshops in beautiful Loveland.

Time to Crochet for Yourself!

If your Autumn was anything like mine you have been crazy busy finishing up gifts for everyone for the holidays. Unfortunately in all that rush it is easy to forget about doing anything for yourself. Which is what the “Crochet for Me Pattern Bundle is all about.

This bundle includes 35 crochet patterns by 22 designers for just $19 (89% off the price of buying each pattern individually and just 55¢ each). The Bundle is available for only 5 days, December 26th – 31st, so be sure to grab yours quickly before the bundle is gone with the old year.

This post contains affiliate links, if you make a purchase using my link I will be compensated at no additional cost to you.

Get your Crochet for Me pattern bundle by clicking on this link.

I have 2 patterns in the bundle. My “Rhytmn of Shells cowl” and “September Shawl”. Both of these designs are fabulously wearable because of their shapes.

The cowl is a perfect pattern for using up that gorgeous hank of fingering or sock weight yarn you picked up at your local fiber festival and haven’t known what to make with it. Worked in a tube off a stacked rows foundation the lace pattern is just fancy enough to really dress up your cold weather wardrobe.

The shawl is worked using 2 hanks of similar weight yarn. For my sample the L-shaped body is worked in a simple stitch pattern using a variegated yarn then the elaborate 1920s lace border is worked in a semi-solid complimentary yarn color to really pop. The L-shape sits well on the shoulders no matter how it is styled.

My favorite way to wear my shawls is the classic bandana drape over or under my coat.

Here are some images of all the patterns in the bundle in collages of each section.

Garments.

Neckwear

Headwear

Ponchos and Shawls

Miscellaneous (some great fingerless mitts)

Click here to buy your Bundle now.

A Beary Little Christmas Pattern

2 versions of "Beary Christmas Giftcard Holder". 1 bear is brown with brown eyes, black nose and red bow with a green pouch, other bear is gray with black button eyes, blue nose, pink bow and light blue pouch. Both are laying on a wooden background with Mamas2hands.com and logo at bottom of image.

I hope you are all enjoying the festive season. It seems like December gets here faster every year. But to start off my December I have a fun little pattern to share with you, this little bear can be an ornament on your tree or stocking stuffer. They have a pouch to hold a standard gift card on their back.

8th Annual Holiday Stashdown promo image.

This pattern is part of the 2022 Holiday Stashdown CAL you can find all the details on following along or catching up by clicking on the Stashdown link above. The Holiday Stashdown CAL is the fifth and final crochet along of 2022 hosted in the CAL Central Facebook and Ravelry groups. This call includes 22 free crochet patterns for winter holiday gifts, decorations, gift wrap, and more! Join us to make wonderful projects, chat with other crocheters, and enter for your chance to win a prize!

I chose this little bear gift card holder because you can make them with bits of yarn left over in your stash from other projects. The entire project takes less than 65 yards to crochet.

A Very Beary Christmas (Gift Card holder)

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill Level: Intermediate

Description: Slide a gift card into the pouch of this sweet little teddy bear as a fun way to celebrate the holidays with your family or friends. Make them for stocking stuffers or add a hanging loop to add to your holiday tree.

Finished Size: 6.25” (15.6 cm) –  5.5” (13.75 cm) inches tall

Materials:

Yarn Worsted Weight Acrylic yarn: Pouch takes about 15 yards, Bear takes less than 50 yards, nose 1 yard and bowtie 2 yards.

Sample 1: Red Heart “With Love”, #4 medium , 100% Acrylic, 7 oz/198 g, 370yards/338 m.

Sample 2: Berroco “Ultra Wool”, #4 Medium, 100% superwash wool, 3.5 oz/100 g, 219 yds/200 m.

Notions: Safety Eyes (9-10 mm) or buttons for Bears eyes (if making for a child under 5 years embroider eyes with black yarn), black pearl cotton for embroidering mouth, appropriate yarn and embroidery needles for finishing, a handful of polyfill for stuffing.

Hooks H-8/5mm

Gauge: 4 rounds for Head Back = 2”/5 cm diameter in “With Love”;  1 7/8”/4.7 cm diameter in “Ultra Wool”.

Pattern notes: All rounds for bear are worked in spirals unless otherwise noted. Use an adjustable slip knot to make tightening center of rounds easier. Weave in beginning tails as you finish each piece or when instructed in pattern. Leave long tails at ends of pieces to use to sew bear together. Pouch is made in joined rounds without turning.  You may find it helpful to use a stitch marker in the last stitch of the round to help you keep track of rounds.

The RS of fabric for all the bear pieces is the back side of your fabric, the WS is the front of stitches.

Instructions:

Head (Back) Bear Color

Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st) 6 times. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times.(18 sc)

Rnd 4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times, fasten off with 6 inch tail. (24 sc)

Head (Front) Bear Color with Nose Color

Rnd 1: With main color, ch 2, (3 sc, {switch to nose color} 3dcCL {switch back to main color}, 3 sc) in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc, 1 CL)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in CL, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts. (13 sc)

Rnd 3: (*sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*) 3 times, sc in each of next 3 sts, Rep from * to * 2 times. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: Sc in each st around, fasten off with a 10 inch long tail.

Ears (make 2) Bear Color

Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in next 3 sts, sl st next 2 sts, fasten off with 8 inch long tail.

Arms (make 2) Bear Color

Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, weave in beginning tail.

Rnd 3: (1 sc in next st, sc2tog next st) 3 times.

Rnd 4 – 7: sc in each st around, fasten off with an 8 inch long tail.

After Rnd 4 lightly stuff hand end with poly fill.

Legs (make 2) Bear Color

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, weave in beginning tail.

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 4: (1 sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts) 3 times.

Rnd 5 – 8: Sc in each st around, fasten off with an 8 inch long tail.

After Rnd 5 lightly stuff foot end with poly fill.

Body (make 1) Bear Color

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in back bar of 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in sam place as first 3 sc. (7 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, 4 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. (15 sc)

Rnd 3: *(Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 3 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (21 sc)

Rnd 4: *(Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 4 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (27 sc)

Rnd 5: *(Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 5 sts, 3 st in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (33 sc)

Rnd 6: *Sc in each of next 16 sts*, 3 st in next st, Repeat from * to * once, sl st in next 2 sts, fasten off with a 10 inch long tail. (35 sc)

Card Pouch (make 1) Pouch color

Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 11, sc in back bar of 2nd ch from hook, sc in back bar of each rem ch to end, turn to work along the opposite side of chain, sc in each 10 sts, sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)

Rnds 3 – 16: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off.

Bowtie (make 1) Bow Color

Ch 15, sl st tightly in 10th ch from hook, ch 9, sl st tightly in 10th ch from hook, ch 5, fasten off. Pull on beginning and ending tails to tighten knots. Trim short.

Crocheted bow without sewing wrap.

Cut an additional 10 inch length of same color, wrap around center of bow 2 or 3 times and tie in back, use loose ends to sew in place on bear following finishing directions.

Bowtie with sewing wrap in place.

Finishing

Brown bear without bowtie.

Embroider mouth on RS of Front Head. Sew buttons or place safety eyes on Front of Head.

Sew front and back of head together using a whip stitch joining last rounds. Leave a small opening and stuff with fiberfill, after stuffing sew opening closed.

Sew body of bear to front layer of card pouch using photo for reference as to placement. It is helpful to have a card in pouch while sewing. Sew to front layer of pouch using a whip stitch, leaving a small opening and stuff with fiberfill, after stuffing sew opening closed.

Sew ears, with tops pointed outward and WS facing forward, to either side of top half of bear’s head.

Sew Head to top of body and front layer of pouch

Using long ending tail sew Arms and Legs to body spaced as in photo.

Place bow in front under head on body, sew in place.

Weave in any remaining tails. Add your favorite method for ornament hanging to top of Bear’s head.

Floating Star Afghan Block Pattern

Happy Birthday to me! Again! That means it is time for an Afghan Block pattern in celebration of another trip around the sun! My block is #21 in the 2022 Moogly Afghan CAL too. You can find out more about the CAL and the links to the other blocks over on Mooglyblog.com. Check out what Tamara did with my block on her post about Block #21.

I had a lot of fun creating this block, especially since I was doing my favorite style of design where I go from 1 shape to another. In this block that is Round to Square. I’ve labeled the different parts of the pattern to help you stay on track when working your square.

I’ll have this pattern as an ad-free PDF with stitch charts available for sell on Ravelry.com at the end of November if you prefer that format.

Floating Star Afghan Block

designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size:  12” square

Materials:

Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

Color A: #1304 Santorini – Rnds 1-3, 13-14 (used 18.1 g / 34 yds)

Color B: #1502 Iced Aqua – Rnds 4-5, 8-12 (used 29.4 g / 55 yds)

Color C: #1101 Eggshell – Rnds 6 -7 (used 9.9 g / 18 yds)

Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge

Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge First 3.5 rounds of pattern = 4” across diameter

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.

(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.

(PM) Place Marker

(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Ch 3 picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop and top side loop of previous stitch, slip stitch tightly.

(Fan) Pointed Fan Stitch: (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Standing dc) Standing double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] 2 times.

(Standing hdc) Standing half double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

(Standing BPdc) Standing Back Post double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double stitch.

(BPTr) Back Post Treble: YO twice, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard treble stitch.

(BPdc) Back Post double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double crochet stitch.

(BPhdc) Back Post half double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard half double crochet stitch.

Pattern Notes:

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.

Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.

All rounds are joined with a tight slip stitch to the indicated stitch or chain.

Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. After Rnd 8, stitch counts along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count and do not include corner chain spaces.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in 4th chain from hook, join {see pattern notes} to top of beg ch. [12 dc]

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 4 {counts as first dc and ch-1 sp}, [dc in next st, ch 1] 11 times, join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4.  [12 dc, 12 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 3 (RS): (sl st, ch 3 {counts as first dc}, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 11 times, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color A. [36 dc]

Rnd 4 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing dc in 2nd dc of a 3 dc group, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st},  [ch 1, skip 2 sts, V-st in next st] 11 times, ch 1, join to first dc of rnd. [12 V-st, 12 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in first dc of next V-st, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st] 11 times, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color B [60 dc]

Rnd 6 (RS): Attach Color C with Standing dc in center dc that was worked in a ch-1 sp of Rnd 4 V-st, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in sp before next dc, skip 2 sts,* V-st in next dc] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first dc of rnd. [24 V-sts]

Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp of first V-st, [*skip 2 sts, Fan in ch-1 sp of next V-st, skip 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next V-st] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first sc of rnd. Fasten off Color C. [12 Fans, 12 sc]

Round to Square

Rnd 8 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing BPdc around post of first dc of a Fan, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,

[ch 1, *skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc next st, BPTr next st, skip next sc, BPTr next st, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,* ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, BPdc each of next 2 sts, BPhdc next st] 3 times, ch 1, Rep * to * once, ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, join to first BPdc of rnd.  PM in ch-3 sps to mark 4 corners. [16 BPTr, 32 BPdc, 24 BPhdc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-3 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, join to first sc of rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 48 sc, 8 loose sl st, 8 hdc, 32 dc] {24 sts per side}

Rnd 10 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in next st of Rnd 9, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made,

dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in each of next 3 sts of Rnd 9] 4 times, join to first sc of Rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 40 sc, 16 hdc, 56 dc]  {28 sts per side}

Square Rounds to 12”

Rnd 11 (WS): Turn, (sc, ch 1) in first st {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in marked ch sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join to first hdc.  [120 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {30 sts per side}

Rnd 12 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in marked ch sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. [128 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {32 sts per side}

Rnd 13 (WS): With WS facing attach Color A with Standing hdc to any st on side, Rep Rnd 11. [136 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {34 sts per side}

Rnd 14 (RS): Rep Rnd 12. Fasten off.  [144 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {36 sts per side}

Finishing

Weave in tails and block. When pinning out to block it is helpful to pin points of star to lay flat and then gently steam to make them lay down on the surface of the block.

For those of you that may be wondering why the blog has been so quiet, I have been a busy little bee working on lots of freelance designs for various publications. I’ll share more about those designs once they are published. I’ve also been working away on developing more classes to teach at local shops, fiber festivals and hopefully online soon.

Thanks for stopping by.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

I’m participating in the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. Come join the fun! 28 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, and sewing projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week will have a theme.

Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens
Week 2 (July 8-14): Women
Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone
Week 4 (July 22-28): Home
Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets

We’ve also partnered with some of our favorite companies to get some great prizes for you. Find out more information about participating designers, the schedule, and how to enter to win the prizes on Underground Crafter. The deadline for entering the giveaway is Thursday, August 4, 2022 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.

How To Join the 2022 Christmas in July Make Along

  • You can join in by crocheting, knitting, sewing, or making the projects as you have time.
  • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CIJMakeAlong2022 on all social media.
  • If you’d like to chat with other crafters, join the Underground Crafters Facebook group
  • By the end of the Make Along, you’ll have up to 31 awesome projects. Get ready for the handmade holiday season while having fun with us!

Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along post as it is released.

Today I am sharing with you my pattern for making the “Cuddlebug Pet Bed”. As many of you know my old dog Kenna left us for her journey over the Rainbow Bridge back in early February. We found a very young dog (10 months old) at the Humane Society of Boulder in late February.

This is Daisy Mae, she has completely stolen our hearts. She is a super sweet doggie, but she can be pretty destructive with her chewing overnight. So she stays in her kennel while we are all sleeping. I decided to make a new bed pad for her kennel to spoil her. Yes it may get chewed on, though she has been pretty good with her kennel bedding so far.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

This project is also about using up scrap yarn and re-use of other materials I had around the house. You can use any scraps of worsted weight yarn you have on hand to make your own pet bed. I recommend using acrylic yarns as they can be machine washed with ease. You’ll be using 4 strands of yarn together, so you won’t have to worry about weaving in tails except at the beginning and end of the project.

I cut up a piece of foam padding that was part of an old folding futon we had in my youngest kiddo’s room. The cover of the futon had been destroyed in one section, but the foam was still in decent shape. I measured the kennel and then used an old bread knife to saw the foam to the size I needed.

You can adjust the size of the pet bed pattern for your pet. You just need to know the size of the rectangle you want the final bed to be.

Draw out your rectangle on the foam you are using, if not using foam then draw your rectangle size on an appropriate size sheet of paper. Find the center of the rectangle along the length. See photo above.

Then draw 45 degree lines from the corners intersecting the center line.

The length between the intersections is the length you need your foundation to be (see photo above). Crochet the stacked rows foundation to that length. You need an even number of stitches for the foundation, so add 1 row to foundation if needed to get an even number.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

Designed by Andee Graves

SKILL LEVEL: Easy

FINISHED SIZE:  31 x 19 x 4 inches (77.5 x 47.5 x 10 cm)

YARN:

Caron “One Pound” (100% Acrylic; 812 yds / 16 oz, 742 m / 453.6 g)

Project used approximately 2850 yards of yarn.

CROCHET HOOK: US N/P (10 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS:

Yarn needle, Stitch markers, 4 – 1 inch buttons

GAUGE:  In Up & Down Stitch pattern:  7.5 stitches 7 rows = 4″ (10 cm)

SPECIAL STITCHES

Up & Down Stitch: Alternates single crochet stitches worked into double crochet stitches, and double crochet stitches worked into single crochet stitches.

PATTERN NOTES

This project is crocheted holding 4 strands of yarn together the whole time. It is is a great way to use up scraps, when one strand gets close to running out, overlap the new strand about 8 – 10 inches and continue crocheting. Both the ending strand and new strand will be caught up in the body of the stitches. No weaving in ends except at the end and beginning of your project.

The bed is worked center out in the round from a long stacked rows foundation as a large rectangle in up & down stitch (also known as Grit or Griddle stitch). The first round of the sides is work as front post single crochet to make a sharp turn along the top edge. Then rounds are worked in single crochet to get to the height of the foam being used to stuff the bed.

A second rectangle is worked for the bottom of the bed, then sewn to the last round of the sides, leaving one end open. Buttons are sewn along the bottom piece at the opening and chain loops are attached to the side to close the open end.

Tip: Mark the beginning stitch of the round to help you find it at the end of round. Every round should start with single crochet.

INSTRUCTIONS

Bed Top

Stacked Rows Foundation

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in previous row sc.

Row 3 – 20: Rep Row 2.

Turn to work into the sides of the Stacked Rows Foundation stitches.

Rnd 1:  Ch 1,  sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from * to * until reaching end of foundation, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work in end of foundation, sc & dc in end, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work along opposite side of stacked rows foundation, Repeat from * to * beginning in first st until reaching end of foundation, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work in end of row, sc & dc in end of row, ch 1, turn 90 degrees, join with slip st to first st of Rnd PM in corner ch-1 sps.  (22 dc, 22 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made,  sc in dc, dc in sc until reach next marked ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (26 dc, 26 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, [*sc in dc, dc in sc* until reach marked ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, sc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, join with sl st to first st of round. (30 dc, 30 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 4: : Ch 1, turn, [*sc in dc, dc in sc* until reach marked ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, dc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, join with sl st to first st of round. (34 dc, 34 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnds 5 – 16: Alternate repeating Rnd 3 and Rnd 4.  (Rnd 16: 82 dc, 82 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 17: Ch 1, turn, [FPsc in each st until reach marked ch-1 sp, skip marked sp, remove st marker] 4 times, FPsc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (164 FPsc)

Rnd 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (164 sc)

Rnds 19 – 23: Rep Rnd 18. Fasten off at end of Rnd 23.

Bed Bottom

Repeat Foundation and Rnds 1 – 15 from Bed Top. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends.

Sew Bed Bottom Round 15 stitches to top of Bed Top Rnd 24 stitches using a whip stitch. Leave one short end of bed open. Chain 15 with 1 strand of yarn and H (5mm) hook to make button loops. Attach button loops to last round of Bed Top along opening.  Sew buttons on Bed bottom aligning with button loops.

Warm up your Hands

Cold fingers might not be your biggest concern right now, it is summer time here in the US currently. But fingerless mitts are a fun project to crochet in the summer as they are a quick and small. I love to crochet fingerless mitts as they don’t take a lot of fuss or yarn. You can get as fancy as you want or use a show stopping yarn and let it be the star of your project.

c2009 Red Heart

The first design I had published was a fingerless mitt project for Red Heart Yarn in sock weight yarn that was published in October 2009. You can still find that pattern on the Yarnspirations website.

This July I’ll be teaching my “Warm up your Hands (Crocheting Fingerless Mitts)” class at the CGOA Chain Link Conference in New Orleans. This class will get introduce you to the tricks for making fingerless mitts that will be a stretchy fun layer to wear alone or over commercial gloves.

In class you will make a cuff with a thumb opening worked in DK/light worsted yarn that allows for practicing the techniques needed for making fingerless mitts of any size. You will leave with patterns for full size mitts in sock weight yarn and dk/light worsted yarn.

You’ll learn working in the round with and without turning (and why those make a difference in your fabric). Simple shaping in a tube. How to crochet ribbing that has great elasticity. Modifications to the pattern for making the mitts larger or smaller.  Working 2 at a time when crocheting a pair of anything. Finishing tips and tricks for a polished appearance to your completed project.

You can register for this class at the CGOA website by clicking here.

Slippers that Fit!

Human beings come in a lot of sizes and shapes and our feet even more so. That leaves the question of getting slippers and other foot coverings to fit properly. Historically foot wear was made to fit the individual and out of materials that were somewhat malleable. Leather and wool being two of the most commonly used.

This summer you can take a class with me at the CGOA Chain Link conference and learn all the tips and tricks you need to crochet slippers that will always fit. You don’t even need to be a wizard at math to get great fitting results.

As part of the class you will create a paper pattern to use for sizing your slipper and you will get the full pattern for my “One Skein Joy Slippers”, along with all the information you need for modifying the size of the slipper. You will also learn how to adjust the pattern to work with different weights of yarn so you can “stash bust” when making slippers.

You can register for this class at the CGOA website by clicking here.

Wrapped in Crochet

Summer is just around the corner and it’s time to make something special to wrap around your shoulders when you need a bit of warmth in the air conditioning or to ward off the chilly breeze when walking on the beach.

My latest design the “Pavona Wrap” for “I Like Crochet” is an ideal pretty layer to make for yourself or as a gift. Crocheted in Universal Yarns “Bamboo Pop” the combination of cotton and bamboo rayon is cool against your skin when temperatures start to climb, but provides just a touch of warmth when needed.

The wrap used a semi-solid lace pattern in the main body with open lace stripes on the ends to add a strong graphic finish. It is crocheted in 2 pieces off of a central foundation.

You can find the pattern on at ILikeCrochet.com in the June 2022 issue of their online magazine.