It’s beginning to warm up more days on my mountain and the bunnies are venturing out to see if they can find any fresh greens to nibble. We will still get some snow storms before our real warm weather arrives, but I am enjoying every hour of warmth we get. Easter is coming up this weekend and I have a fun little crochet pattern for you. The written version is below, for those of you that prefer a stitch chart or PDF version you can purchase it in my Ravelry Shop by clicking here.
Spring Bunny
designed by Andee Graves
This fun little bunny can be worked flat facing either left or right. Add your bunny as an embellishment to hats, mittens, sweaters or blankets. Or make the stuffy version for a fun little toy to add to Easter baskets or as a gift for a bunny lover in your life.
Finished Size: Finished bunny is approximately 4.25” tall
Materials
Yarn: Worsted Weight yarn, #4 weight category,
1 Flat Bunny uses approximately 7-10 yards of yarn. Stuffy Bunny uses approximately 15 – 20 yards of yarn
Sample was made with Premier “Every Day Worsted Anti-Pilling”, 180 yds/165 m, 3.5 oz/100 g,
Hook: H / 5mm or size needed to obtain gauge.
Notions: Yarn/tapestry needle, Poly fiber fill if making stuffy
Gauge: First 2 dc rounds = 2 3/8” (6 cm) diameter
Special Stitches:
Chain 4 Picot (ch-4 Picot) Chain 4, slip stitch in previous stitch made using front loop and top side loop.
Pattern Notes
Round 1 of stitches is worked into an adjustable slip knot, if you prefer the magic circle start, make 1 less chain stitch at the start of Round 1.
For Stuffy version use the scraps left from weaving in the beginning tails and Side 1 ending tail to stuff the bunny’s head.
Instructions for Flat Bunny
Right Facing Bunny
Rnd 1: Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 3 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in third chain from hook, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (12 dc) Tighten center and weave in beginning tail.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 {counts as first dc}, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 4 sts, (dc, ch-4 Picot, dc) in next st, 2 dc in each of next 6 sts, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc, 1 ch-4 Picot)
Row 3 (Bunny head): Ch 3 {counts as first Tr}, Tr in same st as join, 3 Tr in next st, *ch 7, working in back bumps of chs just made, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip st thru front loop and top side loop of previous Tr, * {first ear made}, Rep from * to * once, {second ear made}, (dc, ch 2, slip st) in next st. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 6 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc)
Left Facing Bunny
Rnd 1: Work same as Right Facing Bunny.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 {counts as first dc}, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 7 sts, ch-4 Picot, 2 dc in each of next 4 sts, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc, 1 ch-4 Picot)
Row 3 (Bunny head): Ch 2, dc in same st as join, *ch 7, working in back bumps of chs just made, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip st thru front loop and top side loop of previous dc, *{first ear made}, Rep from * to * once, {second ear made}, 3 Tr in next st, (Tr, ch 3, slip st) in next st. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 6 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc)
Finishing
Weave in ending tail or use to sew bunny to project.
Instructions for Bunny Stuffy
Side 1 Bunny
Rnds 1 – 2: Work same as Right Facing Flat Bunny. Save beginning tail scrap.
Row 3 (Bunny head): Work same as Right Facing Flat Bunny but work only first Ear. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 4 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc) Weave in ending tail, saving ending tail scrap.
Side 2 Bunny
Rnds 1 – 2: Work same as Left Facing Flat Bunny. Save beginning tail scrap.
Row 3 (Bunny head): Work same as Left Facing Flat Bunny but work only first Ear. Fasten off leaving 20” long tail. (5 Tr, 4 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc)
Finishing
Holding Side 1 and 2 with WS together, using a whip stitch sew around Rnd 2 of body of bunny from 1 side of head to other, place a bit of fiber fill stuffing inside circle of bunny body. Sew along base of bunny head to close circle.
Sew around head, using a whipstitch and leaving bunny ears free, use beginning tail and ending tail scraps to lightly stuff head before sewing nose. Weave in last tail and trim excess.
In the image above you can see how I squished my bunny stuffy to make him sit on a flat bottom. I didn’t stuff the body very firmly so that I had some squishability when the bunny was finished.
I hope you are having a wonderful return to spring and enjoy crocheting some bunnies of your own.
I love March. It is National Crochet Month, National Crafting Month and it has my favorite geeky day…Pi Day.
March 14 is written as 3/14 for most of us here in the US and 3.14 is the short form for Pi. For those of you uncertain what Pi is…it is a mathematical constant that is the ratio of a circle’s circumference to its diameter, approximately equal to 3.14159. It also appears in many formulae across mathematics and physics.
For my crochet design work I tend to use the short form of 3.14. That is more than enough accuracy for creating circles for hats, bags and rugs.
This month I’ve been busy with fun crochet projects at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe. We yarn bombed the tree in front of the shop. My friend Margie in the Casual Crochet group also has us all participating in “Random Acts of Crochet Kindness”. My favorites are the ones made using Googly Eye Finger Puppets.
Like this snuggly “Pocket Hug”. If you would like to make your own Pocket Hug I’ve included the pattern here today. I had fun coming up with the basic circle that I used for this pattern. I had to get a little creative with how I worked the center of the circle, since it is worked around the ring of the Googly Eye Finger Puppet.
Yarn – Premier “Every Day Worsted Anti-Pilling” 180 yds/165 m, 3.5 oz/100 g, #4 weight category
Hook – H (5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions – yarn/tapestry needle, 5 stitch markers
Gauge: 3 rounds off puppet ring = 2.5” diameter
Special Stitches/Abbreviations:
CL (2 double crochet Cluster Stitch) – (yo, insert hook in indicated place, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.
Pattern Notes:
Round 1 of stitches is worked into the finger ring of the googly eye puppet.
Instructions
Circle with Arms
Rnd 1: With googly eyes of puppet facing, attach yarn with a slip st in the puppet finger ring, ch 1, 10 sc in ring, ch 2, bring hook behind googly eyes, sl st to join to first sc worked in ring. (10 sc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 2: (Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc) in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 9 sts, 4 dc in ch-2 sp, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2 {counts as first hdc}, hdc in next st, 2 hdc next st, hdc in next st, ^ ch 6, CL in 3rd st from hook, sc in back bar of each of next 3 chs, sl st thru front loop and side loop of previous hdc,^ hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, *(hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st)3 times,* Rep from ^ to ^ once, Rep from * to * once, sl st to join to top of beginning ch-2. (32 hdc, 6 sc, 2 CL)
Heart
This is my Simple Sweetheart pattern from February 2012
Rnd 1: Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. (7 sc)
Rnd 2: Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, (dc, picot, dc) in next st, dc in next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd 1. Fasten off. (14 dc, 1 picot)
Finishing
Use tails for sewing pieces together. Sew Heart to front of Circle below eyes. Fold arms of circle so they are hugging the heart, sew in place. Weave in any remaining tails.
I hope you are all enjoying the festive season. It seems like December gets here faster every year. But to start off my December I have a fun little pattern to share with you, this little bear can be an ornament on your tree or stocking stuffer. They have a pouch to hold a standard gift card on their back.
This pattern is part of the 2022 Holiday Stashdown CAL you can find all the details on following along or catching up by clicking on the Stashdown link above. The Holiday Stashdown CAL is the fifth and final crochet along of 2022 hosted in the CAL Central Facebook and Ravelry groups. This call includes 22 free crochet patterns for winter holiday gifts, decorations, gift wrap, and more! Join us to make wonderful projects, chat with other crocheters, and enter for your chance to win a prize!
I chose this little bear gift card holder because you can make them with bits of yarn left over in your stash from other projects. The entire project takes less than 65 yards to crochet.
A Very Beary Christmas (Gift Card holder)
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill Level: Intermediate
Description: Slide a gift card into the pouch of this sweet little teddy bear as a fun way to celebrate the holidays with your family or friends. Make them for stocking stuffers or add a hanging loop to add to your holiday tree.
Notions: Safety Eyes (9-10 mm) or buttons for Bears eyes (if making for a child under 5 years embroider eyes with black yarn), black pearl cotton for embroidering mouth, appropriate yarn and embroidery needles for finishing, a handful of polyfill for stuffing.
Hooks H-8/5mm
Gauge: 4 rounds for Head Back = 2”/5 cm diameter in “With Love”; 1 7/8”/4.7 cm diameter in “Ultra Wool”.
Pattern notes: All rounds for bear are worked in spirals unless otherwise noted. Use an adjustable slip knot to make tightening center of rounds easier. Weave in beginning tails as you finish each piece or when instructed in pattern. Leave long tails at ends of pieces to use to sew bear together. Pouch is made in joined rounds without turning. You may find it helpful to use a stitch marker in the last stitch of the round to help you keep track of rounds.
The RS of fabric for all the bear pieces is the back side of your fabric, the WS is the front of stitches.
Instructions:
Head (Back) Bear Color
Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st) 6 times. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times.(18 sc)
Rnd 4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times, fasten off with 6 inch tail. (24 sc)
Head (Front) Bear Color with Nose Color
Rnd 1: With main color, ch 2, (3 sc, {switch to nose color} 3dcCL {switch back to main color}, 3 sc) in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc, 1 CL)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in CL, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts. (13 sc)
Rnd 3: (*sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*) 3 times, sc in each of next 3 sts, Rep from * to * 2 times. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around, fasten off with a 10 inch long tail.
Ears (make 2) Bear Color
Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in next 3 sts, sl st next 2 sts, fasten off with 8 inch long tail.
Arms (make 2) Bear Color
Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, weave in beginning tail.
Rnd 3: (1 sc in next st, sc2tog next st) 3 times.
Rnd 4 – 7: sc in each st around, fasten off with an 8 inch long tail.
After Rnd 4 lightly stuff hand end with poly fill.
Legs (make 2) Bear Color
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, weave in beginning tail.
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 4: (1 sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts) 3 times.
Rnd 5 – 8: Sc in each st around, fasten off with an 8 inch long tail.
After Rnd 5 lightly stuff foot end with poly fill.
Body (make 1) Bear Color
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in back bar of 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in sam place as first 3 sc. (7 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, 4 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. (15 sc)
Rnd 3: *(Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 3 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (21 sc)
Rnd 4: *(Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 4 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (27 sc)
Rnd 5: *(Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 5 sts, 3 st in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (33 sc)
Rnd 6: *Sc in each of next 16 sts*, 3 st in next st, Repeat from * to * once, sl st in next 2 sts, fasten off with a 10 inch long tail. (35 sc)
Card Pouch (make 1) Pouch color
Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 11, sc in back bar of 2nd ch from hook, sc in back bar of each rem ch to end, turn to work along the opposite side of chain, sc in each 10 sts, sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)
Rnds 3 – 16: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off.
Bowtie (make 1) Bow Color
Ch 15, sl st tightly in 10th ch from hook, ch 9, sl st tightly in 10th ch from hook, ch 5, fasten off. Pull on beginning and ending tails to tighten knots. Trim short.
Cut an additional 10 inch length of same color, wrap around center of bow 2 or 3 times and tie in back, use loose ends to sew in place on bear following finishing directions.
Finishing
Embroider mouth on RS of Front Head. Sew buttons or place safety eyes on Front of Head.
Sew front and back of head together using a whip stitch joining last rounds. Leave a small opening and stuff with fiberfill, after stuffing sew opening closed.
Sew body of bear to front layer of card pouch using photo for reference as to placement. It is helpful to have a card in pouch while sewing. Sew to front layer of pouch using a whip stitch, leaving a small opening and stuff with fiberfill, after stuffing sew opening closed.
Sew ears, with tops pointed outward and WS facing forward, to either side of top half of bear’s head.
Sew Head to top of body and front layer of pouch
Using long ending tail sew Arms and Legs to body spaced as in photo.
Place bow in front under head on body, sew in place.
Weave in any remaining tails. Add your favorite method for ornament hanging to top of Bear’s head.
Happy Birthday to me! Again! That means it is time for an Afghan Block pattern in celebration of another trip around the sun! My block is #21 in the 2022 Moogly Afghan CAL too. You can find out more about the CAL and the links to the other blocks over on Mooglyblog.com. Check out what Tamara did with my block on her post about Block #21.
I had a lot of fun creating this block, especially since I was doing my favorite style of design where I go from 1 shape to another. In this block that is Round to Square. I’ve labeled the different parts of the pattern to help you stay on track when working your square.
I’ll have this pattern as an ad-free PDF with stitch charts available for sell on Ravelry.com at the end of November if you prefer that format.
Floating Star Afghan Block
designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 12” square
Materials:
Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),
Color A: #1304 Santorini – Rnds 1-3, 13-14 (used 18.1 g / 34 yds)
Color B: #1502 Iced Aqua – Rnds 4-5, 8-12 (used 29.4 g / 55 yds)
Color C: #1101 Eggshell – Rnds 6 -7 (used 9.9 g / 18 yds)
Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge
Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers
Gauge First 3.5 rounds of pattern = 4” across diameter
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
(PM) Place Marker
(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
(Ch 3 picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop and top side loop of previous stitch, slip stitch tightly.
(Fan) Pointed Fan Stitch: (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp.
(Standing dc) Standing double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] 2 times.
(Standing hdc) Standing half double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
(Standing BPdc) Standing Back Post double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double stitch.
(BPTr) Back Post Treble: YO twice, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard treble stitch.
(BPdc) Back Post double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double crochet stitch.
(BPhdc) Back Post half double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard half double crochet stitch.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.
Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
All rounds are joined with a tight slip stitch to the indicated stitch or chain.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. After Rnd 8, stitch counts along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count and do not include corner chain spaces.
Instructions
Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in 4th chain from hook, join {see pattern notes} to top of beg ch. [12 dc]
Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 4 {counts as first dc and ch-1 sp}, [dc in next st, ch 1] 11 times, join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. [12 dc, 12 ch-1 sp]
Rnd 3 (RS): (sl st, ch 3 {counts as first dc}, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 11 times, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color A. [36 dc]
Rnd 4 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing dc in 2nd dc of a 3 dc group, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [ch 1, skip 2 sts, V-st in next st] 11 times, ch 1, join to first dc of rnd. [12 V-st, 12 ch-1 sp]
Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in first dc of next V-st, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st] 11 times, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color B [60 dc]
Rnd 6 (RS): Attach Color C with Standing dc in center dc that was worked in a ch-1 sp of Rnd 4 V-st, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in sp before next dc, skip 2 sts,* V-st in next dc] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first dc of rnd. [24 V-sts]
Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp of first V-st, [*skip 2 sts, Fan in ch-1 sp of next V-st, skip 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next V-st] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first sc of rnd. Fasten off Color C. [12 Fans, 12 sc]
Round to Square
Rnd 8 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing BPdc around post of first dc of a Fan, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,
[ch 1, *skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc next st, BPTr next st, skip next sc, BPTr next st, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,* ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, BPdc each of next 2 sts, BPhdc next st] 3 times, ch 1, Rep * to * once, ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, join to first BPdc of rnd. PM in ch-3 sps to mark 4 corners. [16 BPTr, 32 BPdc, 24 BPhdc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 sp]
Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-3 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, join to first sc of rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 48 sc, 8 loose sl st, 8 hdc, 32 dc] {24 sts per side}
Rnd 10 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in next st of Rnd 9, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made,
dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in each of next 3 sts of Rnd 9] 4 times, join to first sc of Rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 40 sc, 16 hdc, 56 dc] {28 sts per side}
Square Rounds to 12”
Rnd 11 (WS): Turn, (sc, ch 1) in first st {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in marked ch sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join to first hdc. [120 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {30 sts per side}
Rnd 12 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in marked ch sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. [128 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {32 sts per side}
Rnd 13 (WS): With WS facing attach Color A with Standing hdc to any st on side, Rep Rnd 11. [136 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {34 sts per side}
Weave in tails and block. When pinning out to block it is helpful to pin points of star to lay flat and then gently steam to make them lay down on the surface of the block.
For those of you that may be wondering why the blog has been so quiet, I have been a busy little bee working on lots of freelance designs for various publications. I’ll share more about those designs once they are published. I’ve also been working away on developing more classes to teach at local shops, fiber festivals and hopefully online soon.
I have my annual afghan square pattern for you all to enjoy in celebration of my birthday. It is also Square #21 of the 2021 Moogly Afghan CAL. This is the “Touch of Love Afghan Square” and I’ve shown it in the above photo in 3 different color styles. The pattern does not include instructions on changing colors, I’ve left that decision to you. I have included information on how much yarn of each color I needed for the 3 samples I made.
Sample 1 is a single color that lets the texture of the stitches be the star.
Sample 2 uses accent color changes with the hearts in a solid color.
Sample 3 uses color changes on each bobble stitch round to create additional texture and really makes the hearts pop out. When I worked with the 2 colors in the center heart square I didn’t cut my yarn between color changes. Instead I pulled a loop of the next color up through the slip stitch that joined the previous color. I tightened the slip stitch, then pulled up a long loop of the previous color and put a locking stitch marker in it to keep the loop from being lost. After working the new color round I used the same method to switch back to my previous color. There is a little “holding your mouth just right” with this method, but it is well worth saving yourself having to weave in a bunch of ends when you finish the square.
Tamara’s version of my square is shown in the photo above. She chose to change colors at the same points I did for my Sample 2 of the square. You can read about how she worked the square and see the other wonderful squares in this year’s CAL by visiting the Moogly Blog.
Typically when working bobble textures on a project I design it in a graph with single crochets as the background. I wanted a softer fabric for this afghan square, so I used a linen stitch as the background. This took a little experimenting to get the balance for the fabric to have drape and the bobbles to “pop”. I hope you’ll be as happy with the result as I am.
Pattern is available here in text form and also available for purchase as an Ad-free PDF that includes stitch charts for the entire block in my Ravelry Shop.
Touch of Love Afghan Square
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 12” square
Materials:
Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love”, 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m)
(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
(PM) Place Marker
(3dcCL) 3 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.
(4dcCL) 4 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 4 times, YO pull thru remaining 5 loops on hook.
(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. (Video tutorial)
Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. Overall counts of stitches along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count.
In Round 19 and 20 the V-stitches are started with a chainless single crochet and 3 chains as the first double crochet and ch-1 of the V-stitch. The rounds are joined with a slip stitch to the 2nd chain of that first ch-3.
Instructions
Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (sc, ch 2) 4 times in 2nd chain from hook, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd. PM in each ch-2 sp. [4 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn [(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [8 sc, 4 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 3 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd. [12 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {5 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 4 (WS):Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [4 4dcCL, 16 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {7 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [20 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {9 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 6 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp,* ch 1, skip 1 next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, Rep from * to * once, 3dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 4 3dcCL, 24 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {11 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, {sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [28 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {13 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 8 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 8 3dcCL, 32 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {15 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [52 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {17 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next 2 sts/sps, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, ch 1, skip 1 next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 8 3dcCL, 48 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {19 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [60 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {21 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 12 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 4dcCL in next st, {sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 2 times, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 12 3dcCL, 48 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp] {23 sts btwn ch-2 sps}
Rnds 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 6 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st/sp} 5 times, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [52 sc, 48 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {25 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 14 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*{sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st} 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st,* {sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 next st} 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, 4dcCL in next st, Rep from * to * once] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [12 4dcCL, 16 3dcCL, 56 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {27 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 15 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [76 sc, 40 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {29 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 16 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*sc in next 2 st/sp, {4dcCL in next st, sc in next st} 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp,* {ch 1, skip 1 next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, Rep from * to * once, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [16 4dcCL, 72 sc, 36 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {31 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 17 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 8 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st/sp} 7 times, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [68 sc, 64 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {33 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 18 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st/sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [140 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {35 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 19 (RS): Turn, (sc, ch 3, dc) in first st {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in next st*, Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts remain un-worked, skip last 2 sts, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch-3. [52 V-sts, 4 ch-2 sp {13 V- sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 20 (WS): Ch 1, turn, skip next st, (sc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-1 sp {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in next st,* Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts remain un-worked, skip last 2 sts, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch-3. [52 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {13 V- sts & 2 dc btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 21 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [172 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {43 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
I’m excited to share with you that I’m participating in the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. Be sure to join the fun! 28 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, sewing, and crafting projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week will have a theme.
Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens Week 2 (July 8-14): Women Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone Week 4 (July 22-28): Home Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets
My Braided Ribs Neck Cozy pattern is a fun to crochet and quick gift for anyone on your gift making list. Just use an appropriate color for the person you are giving it to. As a neck cozy it uses approximately 200 yards of worsted weight yarn. Or add another skein of yarn to make it longer, leave off the button holes and you have a warm scarf.
Buttoned along front edge
You can style your finished cozy 2 different ways. 1) Bring the button end over the left shoulder and button along opposite end, or…
Overlapped ends and buttoned
2) Bring the button end over right shoulder and overlap ends to button.
Braided Ribs Neck Cozy by Andee Graves
Skill Level: Intermediate
Finished size: 6.75 inches (16.8 cm) wide x 30 inches (75 cm) long
Stitches used: Foundation Single Crochet (fsc), Chain (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Double Crochet (dc)
Materials:
Yarn – Berroco “Ultra Wool” worsted weight, 100% superwash wool, 219 yds/200 m, 3.5 oz/100 g
1 skein Color #3318
Hook – I-9 (5.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions – yarn/tapestry needle, 5 – 1/2” Buttons
Gauge: In X-stitch pattern 15 stitches and 8.25 rows = 4” Gauge is not critical, you want a soft fabric.
Special Stitches/Abbreviations:
X-st – Cross Stitch: Skip 1 st, dc in next st, working around the first dc made dc in the previous skipped st. if you need help making this stitch I have a tutorial on my blog post: The Secrets to Crocheting the X-stitch.
Pattern Notes:
All double crochet rows start with a modified turning chain. Turn and work a single crochet in first stitch, chain 2. Counts as first double crochet of the row.
Instructions
Row 1 (RS): Work 26 fsc.
Row 2: Turn, (sc, ch 2) in first st {counts as first dc here and thru-out pattern}, [X-st using next 2 sts] 12 times, dc in last st. (12 X-sts, 2 dc)
Row 3: Turn, (sc, ch 2) in first st, dc in next st, [X-st using next 2 sts] 11 times, dc in last 2 sts. (11 X-sts, 4 dc)
Rows 4 – 63: Alternate repeating Rows 2 and 3.
Row 64: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, [ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Buttonholes created in Row 64 and 65.
Row 65: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, [2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in last 2 sts. Fasten off. (26 sc)
Finishing
Button placement.
Gently Block and weave in ends. Sew buttons on Right side of fabric at beginning of neck cozy along righthand edge of fabric to align with buttonholes from Row 64.
I hope you enjoy this pattern, feel free to tag me @andee.graves on Instagram with photos of your finished projects. Make sure you check out all the other fun designs from the 28 other crafty bloggers thru the rest of July. We’ve also partnered with some of our favorite companies to get some great prizes for you, scroll on down for more information.
Learn more about participating designers, the schedule, and how to enter to win the prizes on Underground Crafter. The deadline for entering the giveaway is Wednesday, August 4, 2021 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.
How To Join the 2021 Christmas in July Make Along
You can join in by crocheting, knitting, sewing, or making the projects as you have time.
Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CIJMakeAlong2021 on all social media.
If you’d like to chat with other crafters, join the Underground Crafters Facebook group
By the end of the Make Along, you’ll have up to 31 awesome projects. Get ready for the handmade holiday season while having fun with us!
Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along post as it is released.
It has been super hot even here in Colorado, so I am looking for small projects to work on and hats are one of my favorites. I’m teaching a class next week “Spiraling Stripes Hat” that is a great way to add stripes to your hats without any seams. You can still register for this class until 8 a.m. Central time this Sunday, July 18, 2021.
I like the look of ribbed brims in knit hats, but since I crochet much faster than I knit, I wanted a version for when I was wielding my hook. After a lot of experimenting over the past 15 years I have settled on using “skinny” half double crochet post stitches as my all time favorite method. You will see this ribbing in a lot of my hat patterns (like the Spiraling Stripes Hat).
For those of you that have never worked post stitches, their name comes from the fact that they are worked around the “post” of a stitch instead of under the top 2 strands of a stitch. This gives them much more of a textured look and changes how the fabric behaves.
With a taller stitch like the double crochet it is quite easy to see the “post” of the stitch and to work around the center of this post when working post stitches. For a stitch like the Half Double or Single crochet that becomes a bit more fiddly to find.
The first time I tried using post stitches for my ribbing I decided to do what I call “skinny” post stitches. Instead of working down into the stitch, I use the very top of the post just under the “v” that makes the top of the stitch (the bit of brown yarn the arrow is pointing to in the photograph above). This creates a slimmer looking stitch because the base of the post stitch isn’t stretched around the thickest part of the other stitch.
By the way this tutorial is showing the post stitches and finished work for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed and crochet with your hook in the left-hand, then reverse what I’m doing here.
For the ribbing affect I alternate my post stitches, so I needed an even number of stitches. I generally start with a FPhdc, and end the round with a BPhdc. The first round of ribbing is the trickiest.
Once you have finished that round it just becomes a matter of working FP stitches into FP stitches and BP into BP. In the photo above you can see both the appearance of the ribbing from the front and back.
For a Front Post half double crochet (FPhdc): Insert the hook from front to back to the right of the post you want to work around, then bring the hook from the back to the front under the top of the stitch to the left of the post (indicated by arrow in photo above). Yarn over and pull up a loop thru all the stitches, yarn over and complete your hdc. The post of this new stitch will be sitting on the front of your fabric.
For a Back Post half double crochet (BPhdc): Insert the hook from back to front to the right of the post you want to work around, then bring the hook from the front to the back under the top of the stitch for the left of the post (indicated by arrow in photo above).
Yarn over and pull up a loop thru all the stitches, yarn over and complete your hdc. The post of this new stitch will be sitting on the back of your fabric.
Finished Back Post Half Double Crochet
This is how I make my “skinny” front post and back post half double crochet stitches. You can modify this technique with any crochet stitch, but the half double crochet is my favorite. Practice working your skinny post stitches with this quick and easy headband pattern.
Summer Stretch Headband
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Special Stitches
Materials:
Yarn – Berroco “Ultra Wool” worsted weight, 100% superwash wool, 219 yds/200 m, 3.5 oz/100 g
Color A – #3346, Color B – #3312, Color C – #3315
Hook – H (5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions – yarn/tapestry needle
Gauge: 8 FSC = 2”
Special Stitches/Abbreviations:
fsc (Foundation Single Crochet)
FPhdc (Skinny Front Post Half Double Crochet) – The post stitch is worked under the top 2 strands of the stitch. YO, insert hook into top of previous st from front to back, then bring hook from back to front thru top of next st (this is working around post of st), YO, pull up a loop thru both st tops, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
BPhdc (Back Post Half Double Crochet) – The post stitch is worked under the top 2 strands of the stitch. YO, insert hook into top of previous st from back to front, then bring hook from front to back thru top of next st (this is working around post of st), YO, pull up a loop thru both st tops, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.
Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.
Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.
PM (Place Marker)
Pattern Notes:
Headband is worked in a 1×1 rib using skinny front and back post half double crochet stitches, then flower is worked in 2 parts and sewn to headband.
Instructions
Headband
Rnd 1: With Color A, crochet 96 fsc, without twisting join with a sl st in first fsc.(96 fsc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, FPhdc around post of first st, [BPhdc around post of next st, FPhdc around post of next st] 47 times, BPhdc around post of last st and base of beginning ch-2, sl st to top of first FPhdc. (48 FPhdc, 48 BPhdc)
Rnds 3 & 4: Repeat Rnd 2.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 96 sts around, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. (96 sc)
Use beginning tail to close gap at beginning of Rnd 1, weave in all loose ends.
Flower 1
Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.
Flower 2
Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 2, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 2, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, dc, Exdc, picot, Exdc, dc, sc) in ch-2 sp, skip next st, sl st in ch-1 sp, skip to next ch-2 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning sc of Rnd. Fasten off
Finishing
Weave in tails on flowers, then use remaining tails to sew Flower 1 to Flower 2, then both flowers on headband. Best spot to sew them is over joining seam. When weaving in ends follow the “columns” of your post stitches so you don’t lose the stretchiness of your ribbing.
I’m so excited to be part of the 4th Annual Stitch & Hustle Blog Hop: The Perfect Picot. Links to visit the other participating designers patterns are after this pattern, as well as a link to the “Win All You Need to Make This” Giveaway information. A big Thank You to WeCrochet.com for providing the yarn for all these designs.
Picots are a stitch that I love for edgings because they add a visual texture that creates a finished look. For this pattern I have incorporated the picot stitch for the edging on the brim of the hat and each flower has picots for additional texture and shaping of the petals. If you have a hard time working picots you can check out my blog post: Don’t Fear the Picot with photo tutorials to help you see how I work them. I have also included a mini photo tutorial in the instructions for Flower 1 to help you with the picots worked into the cluster stitches.
I hope you enjoy my pattern for this fun Cloche Hat. I named it after my Great Aunt Josephine, who was quite the style maven in the 1920s. I’ve always loved looking at old photos of her from those years and she was my inspiration.
I have been wanting to design a winter hat that shaded my eyes a bit during the winter as our Colorado winters can be very sunny. I have lots of summer hats that provide plenty of shade from the sun, but most of my winter hats are beanie styles. The drunken brim on this hat is has just enough extension to give a little protection, while the wool yarn makes for a lovely warm hat perfect for the colder weather.
Size: Finished size 23 inches head circumference at beginning of brim.
Materials:
Yarn – We Crochet “Swish Worsted”, 100% Fine Superwash Merino Wool (50 g; 110yds), #4 weight category
Color A – #25630 Rainforest Heather (Dark Teal)
Color B – #26067 Wonderland Heather (Pale Aqua)
Color C – #25147 Amethyst Heather (Deep Purple)
Color D – #26068 Conch (Bright Peach)
Hook – H (5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.
Notions –
yarn/tapestry needle,
16 stitch markers in 2 colors: 8 in first color, 8 in second color
Gauge: Diameter of first 6 Rnds of Crown, also 9 rows and 16 sts of double crochet worked in the Rnd, both = 4 inches (10 cm)
Special Stitches/Abbreviations:
Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.
Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.
Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.
PM (Place Marker)
Pattern Notes:
This hat is worked crown down with standard increases in continuous rounds for the first 13 rounds, then worked is turned so that the front of the previous rounds’ stitches become the wrong side of fabric.
The band of the hat is worked in joined rounds with short rows worked to create an asymmetrical shaping. All band rounds and short rows are worked in the same direction. I have included a photo of how I used stitch markers to help me keep track of where the stitch heights change. I used a different color marker for the regular band rounds from the markers for the short rows.
After band is finished work is turned again. Next a flared “drunken” brim is worked in joined rounds, without turning. Then work is turned to crochet the edging. If a more structured brim is desired the edging can be crocheted over millinery wire to stiffen.
Flowers are worked separately and can be sewn to the hat band or sewn to a pin backing to attach to hat.
Instructions
Crown
Rnd 1: Start with Color A using an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (1 sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd ch from hook. PM in last hdc with first color st marker. [1 sc, 7 hdc]
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st, PM in 2nd hdc made using second color st markers 7 times, move last st marker to last st made. [16 hdc]
Rnds 3-10: Hdc in each unmarked st, 2 hdc in each marked st moving st marker to 2nd st made. At end of Rnd 10 remove all markers except last st marker. [Count at end of Rnd 10 – 80 hdc]
Rnds 11 – 13: Hdc in each st to last st, move st marker up to last st of Rnd.
Step down at end of Rnd 13: Sc in next st, loosely sl st in next st, sl st in next st. Fasten off Color A, change to Color B.
Band
Rnd 1: Continue with Color B, ch 1, turn, sc in loose sl st from step down, sc next 6 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]
Short Row 1: With Color C. Attach new yarn with sl st at 10th st from beginning of previous Rnd, sc next 10 sts, hdc next 10 sts, dc next 20 sts, hdc next 10 sts, sc next 10 sts, sl st next st, fasten off yarn. [20 sc, 20 hdc, 20 dc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc next 7 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]
Short Row 2: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.
Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2.
Short Row 3: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.
Rnd 4: Repeat Rnd 2.
Short Row 4: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.
Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 2.
Short Row 5: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.
Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off Color B, change to Color A.
Brim
Rnd 1: Continue with Color A, ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st around, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [80 hdc]
Rnd 2: Using 8 st markers PM in 3rd st then in every 10th st around, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in marked sts moving st marker to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [88 hdc]
Rnd 3: Add a st marker in 5th st past current st markers, total of 16 markers, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [104 hdc]
Rnd 4 & 5: Ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [end of Rnd 5 – 136 hdc]
Rnd 6 (Picot edging): Ch 1, turn, sc next 2 sts, picot in sc just made, (sc next 4 sts, picot in last sc just made) 33 times, sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [136 sc, 34 picot]
All flowers start with an adjustable slip knot, if substituting magic circle ch 1 at start instead of ch 2.
Flower 1
Rnd 1: Color D, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.
Flower 2
Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, dc, 3 Exdc, dc, hdc, sc) in ch-3 sp, skip to next ch-3 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 of Rnd.
Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, sc next st, (sc, picot in sc just made, sc) in next st, sc in next st, ch 2, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc] 5 times. Fasten off
Flower 3
Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, [(sc, ch 5, sc) in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 5 times, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-5 sp]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, 2 dc, Exdc, ch 1, Exdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-5 sp] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 sp.
Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, {(sc, picot in sc just made) in next st/ch sp} 3 times, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc,] 5 times. Fasten off
Finishing
Weave in tails for hat.
Stack Flowers sandwiching flower 2 between 1 and 3. Use tails to sew them together referencing photo for staggering of petals.
Finish by sewing flowers to hat band where the pink X is shown in photo, or sew to a pin backing to make removable.
A PDF version of this pattern is available in my Ravelry Shop and includes stich charts for the flowers and crown. You can purchase it by clicking here: BUY NOW.
You can visit all the other designers in the Perfect Picot Blog Hop using the links below:
Be sure to enter the drawing for the fantastic giveaway “Win All You Need to Make This”. There will be 5 lucky winners for 5 different groups of designs. The drawing is open Worldwide and ends October 9th. Visit the Stitch & Hustle blog hop main post for all the details.
Have you ever noticed how working a flat circle in larger sizes with regular increases you end up with a polygon shape. The stitches between the increase points make a flat edge. These can be fun shapes, but what if you want the pleasing curve of a really rounded edge for your circle?
Today I’m posting a pattern for a 10 round flat circle that comes out really round, as well as the tips and tricks to make even larger flat rounds that will be really round.
The simple formula to remember for working flat circles is:
Number of stitches in Round 1 = Number of increases in each following round.
You can learn more about the number of stitches recommended for the first round for different stitch heights in my post: Another Pi Day Celebration. For my example today I’m using the half double crochet stitch which needs 8 stitches in the first round.
There are 2 methods of crocheting in the round: Continuous Spiral or Concentric Rounds. For today’s pattern I am using the continuous spiral method. It eliminates the noticeable joins and chains to get to taller stitch heights each round. It does mean you need to keep track of the final stitch in each round. I use a stitch marker that is a different color than my increase stitch markers. If you prefer to work concentric rounds you can apply these same tips for getting a really round circle.
When working circles you want your increases to be evenly spaced each round. My favorite way to keep track of my increases is to use stitch markers. In the case of our half double crochet circle, I place a stitch marker in each stitch at the end of Round 1. I also add my end of round stitch marker in the last stitch.
For all the following rounds I work 2 stitches in the marked stitch then move the stitch marker to the second stitch made. When I work the next round of the circle I crochet 2 stitches in the newly marked stitch and move it up the same way. The photo above shows the end of Round 2 with 8 increase markers (orange) and the last stitch marked with a larger yellow stitch marker.
If I continue increasing in this same style after about 5 rounds it becomes noticeable how the increases line up like the spokes of a wheel. The stitches on the last round will begin to flatten out along the edge giving an octagonal shape instead of a circle. The more rounds worked the more this becomes exaggerated. The photo above shows a completed 10 round circle worked this way.
The trick to creating a really round circle is to break up those “spokes” of increases. The easiest way to do that is to move your increase points before starting the next round. The stitch markers are still really handy, especially as you work larger rounds.
When working circles, whether really round style or the traditional spoke style of increases, the number of stitches in each increase section of your circle will be the same as the Round number you are working. Example (photo above) in Round 4 you will have 3 unmarked stitches and 1 marked stitch for 4 stitches in each section. This holds true no matter what height and number of stitches you begin with in Round 1.
End of Rnd 4 before starting Rnd 5: green arrows indicate where to move Increase St Markers
To break up the spokes of increases you will need to move your increases to the approximate center of each of these sections. Example: after completing Round 4 there are 3 unmarked stitches between each marked stitch. You will shift your stitch markers over to the middle of the unmarked stitches.
Let’s get you started crocheting your first Really Round Circle. For this pattern I have included suggested hook size and the gauge I got, but you can play with hook size and even yarn size to get a fabric that appeals to you. I worked my circles with a worsted weight acrylic yarn, if you used 100% cotton these rounds make great hot pads for your table top.
Really Round Circle
By Andee Graves
Finished Size: 10 Rounds 7.25 inches/18.5 cm diameter (across center),
Gauge: 5 Rounds = 4 inches/10 cm.
Yarn: Worsted Weight Acrylic Yarn, approximately 42 yards/38.4 meters, .67 oz/19 grams for one circle.
Hook: US Size I/9 (5.5.mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions: 8 stitch markers in one color (Increase stitch markers), 1 stitch marker in different color (End-of-Round stitch marker), yarn needle for weaving in ends.
Pattern Notes: Stitch counts for each round are shown in italicized square brackets at end. Once you are sure of you count at end of Round 2 or 3, you may find it helpful to weave in the beginning tail to get it out of your way. Always move End-of-Round stitch marker to last stitch of each round as completed.
Instructions
Rnd 1: Start with an adjustable slip knot (YouTube Video here), Ch 2, (sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd chain from hook. Pull gently on beginning tail to tighten center. With increase stitch markers place 1 in each stitch, place End-of-Round stitch marker in last stitch. [1 sc, 7 hdc]
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each marked st, moving increase stitch markers to second st made in each stitch. [16 hdc]
End of Rnd 2, ready for Rnd 3.
Rnd 3: (Hdc in unmarked st, 2 hdc in marked st, move stitch marker to first st made) 8 times. [24 hdc]
End of Rnd 3, ready for Rnd 4.
Rnd 4: [Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move stitch marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [32 hdc]
Rnd 5: Move each Increase st marker back 2 sts from original marked st. [2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 3 sts] 8 times. [40 hdc]
Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 6.
Rnd 6: Move each Increase st marker forward 2 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [48 hdc]
Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 7.
Rnd 7: Move each Increase st marker back 3 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 4 sts] 8 times. [56 hdc]
Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 8.
Rnd 8: Move each Increase st marker forward 3 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [64 hdc]
Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 9.
Rnd 9: Move each Increase st marker back 4 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 5 sts] 8 times. [72 hdc]
Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 10.
Rnd 10: Move each Increase st marker forward 4 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [80 hdc]
Step Down to finish Circle: Hdc in next st, 2 hdc next st, hdc next 2 sts, sc next st, slip st next 2 sts. Fasten off and weave in ending tail.
Note: If you are wanting to crochet larger circles you may need to experiment with the length of the step-down in for your final round.
Christmas is just 3 days away, not counting today, and you may need to make some last minute gifts. Check out the December issue of “I Like Crochet” online for some fun quick gift projects to crochet up.
I love earwarmers. Especially when I had long hair I would wear wide to narrow ones. I would have the wide part in front and my hair pulled thru the opening with the narrow part on the back of my neck. Was really great when I was skiing for keeping my hair out of my face and ears warm at the same time.
Earwarmers are also great when a hat would be too warm as well as fitting in your coat pocket easier than a hat.
The pictured sample took approximately 52 grams of Anzula’s “It Could Be Worsted” merino/silk blend and used 68 beads. If you are really in a time crunch or a little short on yarn you can eliminate 1 repeat (2 rounds) of the rounds for a slightly narrower band.
The pattern used both the stringing method and “hoist-on” method of adding beads. If you need help with those beading techniques you can see my tutorials here in these posts: Stringing method – “Celebrating Crochet by Teaching” , and Hoist-on Method – “Making a Pendant”.
If you are looking for some really super quick gift projects, check out my blog post from this summer about snowflakes and my little wreath pin. These projects also are a great way to decorate your holiday packages.
Mamas2Hands 