Josephine Cloche Crochet Pattern

I’m so excited to be part of the 4th Annual Stitch & Hustle Blog Hop: The Perfect Picot. Links to visit the other participating designers patterns are after this pattern, as well as a link to the “Win All You Need to Make This” Giveaway information. A big Thank You to WeCrochet.com for providing the yarn for all these designs.

Picots are a stitch that I love for edgings because they add a visual texture that creates a finished look. For this pattern I have incorporated the picot stitch for the edging on the brim of the hat and each flower has picots for additional texture and shaping of the petals. If you have a hard time working picots you can check out my blog post: Don’t Fear the Picot with photo tutorials to help you see how I work them. I have also included a mini photo tutorial in the instructions for Flower 1 to help you with the picots worked into the cluster stitches.

I hope you enjoy my pattern for this fun Cloche Hat. I named it after my Great Aunt Josephine, who was quite the style maven in the 1920s. I’ve always loved looking at old photos of her from those years and she was my inspiration.

I have been wanting to design a winter hat that shaded my eyes a bit during the winter as our Colorado winters can be very sunny. I have lots of summer hats that provide plenty of shade from the sun, but most of my winter hats are beanie styles. The drunken brim on this hat is has just enough extension to give a little protection, while the wool yarn makes for a lovely warm hat perfect for the colder weather.

Josephine Cloche

designed by Andee Graves

Pattern Details

Skill Level: Intermediate

Stitches used – Chain (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Half Double Crochet (hdc), Double Crochet (dc), Cluster (Cl), Extended Double Crochet (Exdc), Picot (picot)

Size: Finished size 23 inches head circumference at beginning of brim.

Materials:

Yarn – We Crochet “Swish Worsted”, 100% Fine Superwash Merino Wool (50 g; 110yds), #4 weight category

Color A – #25630 Rainforest Heather (Dark Teal)

Color B – #26067 Wonderland Heather (Pale Aqua)

Color C – #25147 Amethyst Heather (Deep Purple)

Color D – #26068 Conch (Bright Peach)

Hook – H (5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

yarn/tapestry needle,

16 stitch markers in 2 colors: 8 in first color, 8 in second color

Gauge:  Diameter of first 6 Rnds of Crown, also 9 rows and 16 sts of double crochet worked in the Rnd, both = 4 inches (10 cm)

Special Stitches/Abbreviations:

Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.

Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.

Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.

PM (Place Marker)

Pattern Notes:

This hat is worked crown down with standard increases in continuous rounds for the first 13 rounds, then worked is turned so that the front of the previous rounds’ stitches become the wrong side of fabric.

The band of the hat is worked in joined rounds with short rows worked to create an asymmetrical shaping. All band rounds and short rows are worked in the same direction.  I have included a photo of how I used stitch markers to help me keep track of where the stitch heights change. I used a different color marker for the regular band rounds from the markers for the short rows.

After band is finished work is turned again. Next a flared “drunken” brim is worked in joined rounds, without turning. Then work is turned to crochet the edging. If a more structured brim is desired the edging can be crocheted over millinery wire to stiffen.

Flowers are worked separately and can be sewn to the hat band or sewn to a pin backing to attach to hat.

Instructions

Crown

Rnd 1: Start with Color A using an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (1 sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd ch from hook. PM in last hdc with first color st marker. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st, PM in 2nd hdc made using second color st markers 7 times, move last st marker to last st made. [16 hdc]

Rnds 3-10: Hdc in each unmarked st, 2 hdc in each marked st moving st marker to 2nd st made. At end of Rnd 10 remove all markers except last st marker. [Count at end of Rnd 10 – 80 hdc]

Rnds 11 – 13: Hdc in each st to last st, move st marker up to last st of Rnd.

Step down at end of Rnd 13: Sc in next st, loosely sl st in next st, sl st in next st. Fasten off Color A, change to Color B.

Band

Rnd 1: Continue with Color B, ch 1, turn, sc in loose sl st from step down, sc next 6 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]

Short Row 1: With Color C. Attach new yarn with sl st at 10th st from beginning of previous Rnd, sc next 10 sts, hdc next 10 sts, dc next 20 sts, hdc next 10 sts, sc next 10 sts, sl st next st, fasten off yarn. [20 sc, 20 hdc, 20 dc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc next 7 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]

Short Row 2: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 3: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 4: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 4: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 5: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off Color B, change to Color A.

Brim

Rnd 1: Continue with Color A, ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st around, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [80 hdc]

Rnd 2: Using 8 st markers PM in 3rd st then in every 10th st around, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in marked sts moving st marker to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [88 hdc]

Rnd 3: Add a st marker in 5th st past current st markers, total of 16 markers, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [104 hdc]

Rnd 4 & 5: Ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [end of Rnd 5 – 136 hdc]

Rnd 6 (Picot edging): Ch 1, turn, sc next 2 sts, picot in sc just made, (sc next 4 sts, picot in last sc just made) 33 times, sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [136 sc, 34 picot]

All flowers start with an adjustable slip knot, if substituting magic circle ch 1 at start instead of ch 2.

Flower 1

Rnd 1: Color D, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.


Flower 2

Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, dc, 3 Exdc, dc, hdc, sc) in ch-3 sp, skip to next ch-3 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 of Rnd.

Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, sc next st, (sc, picot in sc just made, sc) in next st, sc in next st, ch 2, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc] 5 times. Fasten off

Flower 3 

Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, [(sc, ch 5, sc) in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 5 times, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-5 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, 2 dc, Exdc, ch 1, Exdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-5 sp] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 sp.

Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, {(sc, picot in sc just made) in next st/ch sp} 3 times, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc,] 5 times. Fasten off

Finishing

Weave in tails for hat.

Stack Flowers sandwiching flower 2 between 1 and 3. Use tails to sew them together referencing photo for staggering of petals.

Finish by sewing flowers to hat band where the pink X is shown in photo, or sew to a pin backing to make removable.

A PDF version of this pattern is available in my Ravelry Shop and includes stich charts for the flowers and crown. You can purchase it by clicking here: BUY NOW.

You can visit all the other designers in the Perfect Picot Blog Hop using the links below:

Be sure to enter the drawing for the fantastic giveaway “Win All You Need to Make This”. There will be 5 lucky winners for 5 different groups of designs. The drawing is open Worldwide and ends October 9th. Visit the Stitch & Hustle blog hop main post for all the details.

Crochet Really Round Circles

Have you ever noticed how working a flat circle in larger sizes with regular increases you end up with a polygon shape. The stitches between the increase points make a flat edge. These can be fun shapes, but what if you want the pleasing curve of a really rounded edge for your circle?

Today I’m posting a pattern for a 10 round flat circle that comes out really round, as well as the tips and tricks to make even larger flat rounds that will be really round.

The simple formula to remember for working flat circles is:

Number of stitches in Round 1 = Number of increases in each following round.

You can learn more about the number of stitches recommended for the first round for different stitch heights in my post: Another Pi Day Celebration. For my example today I’m using the half double crochet stitch which needs 8 stitches in the first round.

There are 2 methods of crocheting in the round: Continuous Spiral or Concentric Rounds. For today’s pattern I am using the continuous spiral method. It eliminates the noticeable joins and chains to get to taller stitch heights each round. It does mean you need to keep track of the final stitch in each round. I use a stitch marker that is a different color than my increase stitch markers. If you prefer to work concentric rounds you can apply these same tips for getting a really round circle.

When working circles you want your increases to be evenly spaced each round. My favorite way to keep track of my increases is to use stitch markers. In the case of our half double crochet circle, I place a stitch marker in each stitch at the end of Round 1. I also add my end of round stitch marker in the last stitch.

For all the following rounds I work 2 stitches in the marked stitch then move the stitch marker to the second stitch made. When I work the next round of the circle I crochet 2 stitches in the newly marked stitch and move it up the same way. The photo above shows the end of Round 2 with 8 increase markers (orange) and the last stitch marked with a larger yellow stitch marker.

If I continue increasing in this same style after about 5 rounds it becomes noticeable how the increases line up like the spokes of a wheel. The stitches on the last round will begin to flatten out along the edge giving an octagonal shape instead of a circle. The more rounds worked the more this becomes exaggerated. The photo above shows a completed 10 round circle worked this way.

The trick to creating a really round circle is to break up those “spokes” of increases. The easiest way to do that is to move your increase points before starting the next round. The stitch markers are still really handy, especially as you work larger rounds.

When working circles, whether really round style or the traditional spoke style of increases, the number of stitches in each increase section of your circle will be the same as the Round number you are working. Example (photo above) in Round 4 you will have 3 unmarked stitches and 1 marked stitch for 4 stitches in each section. This holds true no matter what height and number of stitches you begin with in Round 1.

End of Rnd 4 before starting Rnd 5: green arrows indicate where to move Increase St Markers

To break up the spokes of increases you will need to move your increases to the approximate center of each of these sections. Example: after completing Round 4 there are 3 unmarked stitches between each marked stitch. You will shift your stitch markers over to the middle of the unmarked stitches.

Let’s get you started crocheting your first Really Round Circle. For this pattern I have included suggested hook size and the gauge I got, but you can play with hook size and even yarn size to get a fabric that appeals to you. I worked my circles with a worsted weight acrylic yarn, if you used 100% cotton these rounds make great hot pads for your table top.

Really Round Circle

By Andee Graves

Finished Size: 10 Rounds 7.25 inches/18.5 cm diameter (across center),

Gauge: 5 Rounds = 4 inches/10 cm.

Yarn: Worsted Weight Acrylic Yarn, approximately 42 yards/38.4 meters, .67 oz/19 grams for one circle.

Hook: US Size I/9 (5.5.mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: 8 stitch markers in one color (Increase stitch markers), 1 stitch marker in different color (End-of-Round stitch marker), yarn needle for weaving in ends.

Pattern Notes: Stitch counts for each round are shown in italicized square brackets at end. Once you are sure of you count at end of Round 2 or 3, you may find it helpful to weave in the beginning tail to get it out of your way. Always move End-of-Round stitch marker to last stitch of each round as completed.

Instructions

Rnd 1: Start with an adjustable slip knot (YouTube Video here), Ch 2, (sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd chain from hook. Pull gently on beginning tail to tighten center. With increase stitch markers place 1 in each stitch, place End-of-Round stitch marker in last stitch. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each marked st, moving increase stitch markers to second st made in each stitch. [16 hdc]

End of Rnd 2, ready for Rnd 3.

Rnd 3: (Hdc in unmarked st, 2 hdc in marked st, move stitch marker to first st made) 8 times. [24 hdc]

End of Rnd 3, ready for Rnd 4.

Rnd 4: [Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move stitch marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [32 hdc]

Rnd 5: Move each Increase st marker back 2 sts from original marked st. [2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 3 sts] 8 times. [40 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 6.

Rnd 6: Move each Increase st marker forward 2 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [48 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 7.

Rnd 7: Move each Increase st marker back 3 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 4 sts] 8 times. [56 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 8.

Rnd 8: Move each Increase st marker forward 3 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [64 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 9.

Rnd 9: Move each Increase st marker back 4 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 5 sts] 8 times. [72 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 10.

Rnd 10: Move each Increase st marker forward 4 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [80 hdc]

Step Down to finish Circle: Hdc in next st, 2 hdc next st, hdc next 2 sts, sc next st, slip st next 2 sts. Fasten off and weave in ending tail.

Note: If you are wanting to crochet larger circles you may need to experiment with the length of the step-down in for your final round.

Evening Stroll Beaded Earwarmer

Christmas is just 3 days away, not counting today, and you may need to make some last minute gifts. Check out the December issue of “I Like Crochet” online for some fun quick gift projects to crochet up.

You’ll see a new version of my Morning Walk Earwarmer, “Evening Stroll Beaded Earwarmer”. This beaded version gives a festive touch for wearing when you are out looking at Christmas lights. Or a great way to add some bling to your bundled up look for New Year’s Eve.

I love earwarmers. Especially when I had long hair I would wear wide to narrow ones. I would have the wide part in front and my hair pulled thru the opening with the narrow part on the back of my neck. Was really great when I was skiing for keeping my hair out of my face and ears warm at the same time.

Earwarmers are also great when a hat would be too warm as well as fitting in your coat pocket easier than a hat.

The pictured sample took approximately 52 grams of Anzula’s “It Could Be Worsted” merino/silk blend and used 68 beads. If you are really in a time crunch or a little short on yarn you can eliminate 1 repeat (2 rounds) of the rounds for a slightly narrower band.

The pattern used both the stringing method and “hoist-on” method of adding beads. If you need help with those beading techniques you can see my tutorials here in these posts: Stringing method – “Celebrating Crochet by Teaching” , and Hoist-on Method – “Making a Pendant”.

If you are looking for some really super quick gift projects, check out my blog post from this summer about snowflakes and my little wreath pin. These projects also are a great way to decorate your holiday packages.

Spirals & Lace Afghan Square

Happy Thanksgiving to all my U.S. readers. I’m so thankful to all of you coming to visit my blog.

I’m sharing this latest free pattern with you. I’m having fun with spirals again this time around. To keep things even more interesting I’ve added some Join-as-You-Go edgings for making the spiral grid that is the centerpiece for this square.

For those that prefer to have a PDF with stitch charts for each element and no ads, you can purchase the pattern for less than $4 thru my Ravelry Shop by clicking here.

Spirals and Lace Afghan Square

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size:

12” square

Materials:

Yarn  Worsted wt (Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yd/338 m)

  • Color A: #1704 Bubble Gum
  • Color B: #1308 Tan
  • Color C: #1538 Lilac
  • Color D: #1969 Wintergreen
  • Color E: #1101 Eggshell

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

Hook J / 6 mm

Notions 8 locking st markers (2 in one color, 6 in another color), Yarn/tapestry needle for weaving in ends

My favorite locking stitch markers are from the Clover company, like the ones above. If you can’t find them locally click on the photo above to find them on Amazon.

This handy 6 inch ruler is great for checking your gauge, especially with the center finding measure on one side it’s perfect for measuring center out motifs, whether squares or rounds. If you can’t find one locally click on the photograph above to find it on Amazon.

Gauge 1 Spiral Square = 3 inches square

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

Loose slip stitch (sl st loosely): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.

Joining slip st (sl st): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

Standing Double Crochet (Standing dc): make slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook) twice. If substituting for a chain start of a round, do not work the first 3 chains of the round instructions.

V-stitch (V-st): (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

Join-As-You-Go (JAY-Go)

Pattern Notes:

Overall square starts with 9 2-armed spiral rounds, then spirals are joined together in a grid with Join-as-you-Go round to square edging creating a 9.5 inch square. Bordering Rounds are worked along outside edge of this grid to finish.

Start each spiral with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. If you need help with this technique check out my video tutorial on my YouTube channel.

Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets.

Instructions

Spirals – Make 9

In Sample: 4 corner spirals used Colors A & B, 4 side spirals used Colors A & C, and center spiral used Colors C & B.

Note: Round 3 of Spirals specifies “sl st loosely”, this means work the indicated slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten it as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches in the edging rounds.

Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with first Color and adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (2 sc, 2 hdc) in second ch from hook, pull up long loop of first Color and remove hook, insert hook in same ch as previous work, pull up a loop of second Color on shaft of hook, ch 1, working over beginning tail (2 sc, 2 hdc) in same ch st, pull beginning tail of first Color to close center tightly. [2 sc, 2 hdc, in each color {8 sts total}]

Place st markers in each st using a different color marker to indicate the last st of each color section.

Rnd 2: Begin with first Color, *(2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of first Color, switch to second Color, Repeat from * to *. [8 hdc, in each color {16 sts total}]

Rnd 3: Begin with first Color, *(hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, remove st marker) 4 times*, pull up loop of first Color, switch to second Color, Repeat from * to *, [12 hdc in each color],

Switch back to first Color, **hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st loosely in next st, sl st in back loop of next st, fasten off and pull tail thru final sl st and snug**, switch to second Color, Repeat from ** to ** once. [10 hdc, 1 sc, 1 loose slip st, in each color of open sts]

Joining Spirals

Note: When working the sl st joins into the ch-sps of previous edgings it works better to lay the work on a flat surface and bring the working loop for the loose sl st over the top of the ch-sp and pull the working yarn thru from behind. This will give you a flat and tidy join.

Corner Spiral Squares Edging

Rnd 1:

Insert hook in any open stitch along edge of spiral round, pull up a loop of Color D, ch 1, working over beginning tail sc in same st as join, (*ch 1, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st, ch 2, dc & hdc in next st, ch 1, skip next st,* sc in next 2 sts) 3 times,  Repeat from * to * once, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd, fasten off and pull tail thru final st. [8 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp, 8 hdc, 8 dc]

Center Spiral Square JAY-Go Edging

Rnd 1: Insert hook in any open stitch along edge of spiral round, pull up a loop of Color D, ch 1, working over beginning tail sc in same st as join, (*ch 1, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st, ch 1, sl st tightly to adjacent ch-2 sp of a Corner Spiral edging, ch 1, return to center spiral, dc & hdc in next st, ch 1, skip next st,* sc in next 2 sts) 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd, fasten off and pull tail thru final st. [8 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 JAY-Go corner sp, 8 hdc, 8 dc]

Side Spiral Squares #1-3 JAY-Go Edging

Rnd 1: Insert hook in any open stitch along edge of spiral round that will be outside edge of square, pull up a loop of Color D, ch 1, working over beginning tail sc in same st as join, ch 1, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st, *ch 1, sl st tightly to adjacent ch-2 sp of a Corner Spiral edging, ch 1, return to side spiral, dc & hdc in next st,*

sl st loosely in nearest ch-1 sp of adjacent spiral edging, return to side spiral, skip next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st loosely in nearest ch-1 sp of adjacent spiral edging, return to side spiral, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st,

(ch 1, sl st tightly to adjacent corner join, ch 1, return to side spiral, dc & hdc in next st, sl st loosely in nearest ch-1 sp of adjacent spiral edging, return to side spiral, skip next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st loosely in nearest ch-1 sp of adjacent spiral edging, return to side spiral, skip next st, hdc & dc in next st) 2 times,

Repeat from * to * once, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd, fasten off and pull tail thru final st. [8 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 6 sl st JAY-Go sp, 4 ch-2 JAY-Go corner sp, 8 hdc, 8 dc]

Side Spiral Square #4 JAY-Go Edging

Work same as Side Spiral Squares #1-3 JAY-Go Edging but do NOT fasten off at end. [8 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 6 sl st JAY-Go sp, 4 ch-2 JAY-Go corner sp, 8 hdc, 8 dc]

Border

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 13 sts, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-2 sp, PM in ch-2 sp just made,* sc in next 28 sts] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next 14 sts, sl st to first sc of rnd. Fasten off. [120 sc, 4 ch-2 corner sps]

Rnd 2: Attach Color E with Standing dc in 14th st from any left ch-2 corner sp, *skip 2 sts, V-st in next st*, Repeat from * to * 3 times, skip next st, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 just made, skip 1 st, V-st in next st, Repeat from * to * 9 times, skip 1 st] 3 times, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 just made, skip 1 st, V-st in next st, Repeat from * to * 4 times, skip 2 sts, dc in same st as standing dc, ch 1, sl st to first dc {counts as final V-st of round}. Fasten off. [40 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 3: Attach Color C with a Standing dc in any ch-1 sp of any V-st, [V-st in each ch-1 sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in ch-2 sp, move marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, V-st in each ch-1 sp until reach beginning, dc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sl st to first dc of rnd {makes last V-st of Rnd}. Fasten off. [48 V-sts, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 4: Insert hook in any dc along a side, pull up a loop of Color E, ch 1, working over beginning tail sc in same st as join, [sc in each st and ch-1 sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st and ch-1 sp until reach end of Rnd, sl st to first sc. [152 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Finishing

Block gently, weave in loose ends.

This square is block #24 of the 2019 Moogly Afghan CAL. You can find Tamara’s version of my square and links to the other 23 squares by clicking here: MooglyBlog.

Floating Diamonds Shawlette

I’m excited to be participating in the 2019 Celebrate Mom Blog Hop hosted by Pattern Paradise! Each day in May, a different crochet designer will be featured and share a new free pattern with you! There are lots of fun prizes too, so come join the fun! For the list of designers and all the details, go to this post => 2019 Celebrate Mom Blog Hop & Giveaway

My kids and I have a daily tradition that we start and end our days with a hug. But what do you do when your mom (or other dear friends) are far away? You can make them this lovely shawlette that can be a hug for the times you are out of arms reach.

It uses just one ball of Berroco’s “ReMix Light” yarn. Which is a perfect weight and fiber mix for a summer wearable. The open mesh and lace work also make for a very breathable fabric.

This is a little bit more challenging crochet project as you need to keep track of the changes for the diamond pattern. It is definitely one of those projects where you want to check your count at the end of each row to be sure you didn’t add or miss a stitch.

Floating Diamonds Shawlette

Designed by Andee Graves / M2H Designs

Skill level:  Intermediate

Finished Size: 59” (149.9 cm) wide x 11” (27.9 cm) tall after blocking

Materials

Yarn: Berroco “Remix Light” 30% Nylon, 27% Cotton, 24% Acrylic, 10% Silk, 9% Linen (3.5 oz/100 g, 432 yd/400 m), 1 Ball of Color # 6977

Hook: 7 / 4.5 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Notions: Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge: In V-st pattern 16 stitches and 9 rows = 4” (10.16 cm)

Special Stitches or Abbreviations

PM – Place stitch marker

V-st – V Stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated place

Pattern Notes

Shawl is worked top-down from a stacked rows foundation with a center increase point and decreases at ends of rows. Once body of shawl is finished, yarn is cut and rejoined at end of foundation to work edging along sides and bottom edge.

The majority of the body of this shawl is worked in staggered V-stitches. This means the 2 legs of the V-stitch are worked in the space between two V-stitches.

Instructions:

Foundation Rows

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in second ch from hook.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc.

Rows 4 – 157: Alternate repeating Rows 2 and 3 (ending with a Row 3). PM in Row 79. [78 “scallops”]

Shawl Body

Row 1: Ch 2, turn to work along flat side of foundation rows, slip st in side of first sc row, ch 3 {counts as dc}, *skip next dc row, V-st in next sc row*, Repeat from * to * until work in sc row before marked sc row, (V-st,  ch 2, V-st) in marked sc row, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made, Repeat from * to * until work in next to last sc row, skip last dc row, dc in final sc row. [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 78 V-sts]

The marked ch-2 space is the increase point for the rest of the body of the shawl.

Row 2: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, Repeat from * to * until 1 V-st is left in row, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 78 V-sts]

Rows 3-9: Repeat Row 2. Count at end of Row 9 – [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 78 V-sts]

Row 10: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 6 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 10, skip next 2 V-sts, Repeat from * to * 5 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 10, skip next 2 V-sts, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 10, skip next 2 V-sts, Repeat from * to * 5 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 10, skip next 2 V-sts, repeat from * to * 8 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 10 ch-10 sp, 68 V-sts]

Row 11: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 5 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in ch-10 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in ch-10 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st,  [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in ch-10 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to *4 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in ch-10 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 7 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 10 sc, 58 V-sts]

Row 12: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 4 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 6 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 30 sc, 48 V-sts]

Row 13: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 3 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 5 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 50 sc, 38 V-sts]

Row 14: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 2 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 70 sc, 28 V-sts]

Row 15: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, V-st in space before next V-st] 4 times, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, V-st in space before next V-st, [ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, V-st in space before next V-st] 4 times, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to* 3 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 90 sc, 18 V-sts]

Row 16: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 70 sc, 28 V-sts]

Row 17: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * 2 times, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 50 sc, 38 V-sts]

Row 18: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * 3 times, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 30 sc, 48 V-sts]

Row 19: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * 4 times, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 10 sc, 58 V-sts]

Row 20: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in first ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next sc, V-st in last ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times] 4 times, V-st in first ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next sc, V-st in last ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 5 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * 5 times, [V-st in first ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next sc, V-st in last ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times] 4 times, V-st in first ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next sc, V-st in last ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 68 V-sts]

Rows 21 – 23: Repeat Row 2. Fasten off at end of Row 23. [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 68 V-sts]

Edging: With RS of foundation facing attach yarn with slip st in ch-2 at beginning of Row 1 {indicated by pink arrow in photo above}, working along side of Shawl body Rows, (ch 2, dc) in same ch-2 sp as slip st join, [(slip st, ch 2, dc) in top of next row] 22 times, slip st in last st at top of Row 23, turn to work along top of Row 23 stitches, ch 3, dc in first dc of first V-st, skip 2 sts, *[(slip st, ch 3, dc) in first dc of next V-st, skip 2 sts]* 33 times, (slip st, ch 3, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, remove st marker, Repeat from * to * 34 times, (slip st, ch 2, dc) in last dc of Row 23, turn to work along side of Shawl Body rows at last end, [(slip st, ch 2, dc) in top of next row] 22 times, slip st in sc at end of foundation rows,Fasten off. [23 small scallops at each end, 69 scallops along top of Row 23]

Finishing

Before weaving in ends, wet block work to open lace. Once shawlette has completely dried, weave in all loose ends.

The stitch markers in my project photos above are my favorite newest Clover stitch markers. They are light weight and come in a variety of colors and sizes. If you can’t find them locally you can click on the product photo below to find them on Amazon.com. This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

I hope you have a fun time crocheting this shawlette. If you make it and want to share photos with me of your finished project tag me on Instagram. You can follow me there using the icons at the top of the sidebar. Or just search for me as Andee.Graves.

Time for an Easter Basket

Easter is coming up in just a few weeks and I have a fun little pattern for you to crochet a basket for Easter goodies. This basket is small enough to be perfect for toddlers or as a special gift container.

The trickiest stitch in this project is the Back Post Single Crochet (BPsc). The single crochet isn’t a stitch you usually think of as having enough of a post to work this stitch. You are working it using the top loops of your stitch so that the newly made stitch is sitting on the back side of the stitch. Following is a photo tutorial to help you make this stitch.

Step 1 – BPsc
Step 2 – BPsc
Step 3 – BPsc
Step 4 – BPsc
  1. Insert the hook from back to front of stitch working into.
  2. Insert the hook from front to back of next stitch.
  3. Yarn over and pull up a loop thru both stitches (2 loops on hook).
  4. Yarn over and complete single crochet, Back Post single crochet made.

All rounds in this project are worked concentrically. Each round ends with a tight slip stitch to join. The next round will start with a chain stitch to get to stitch height. For best results you want to be sure that your slip stitch is very tight and that your beginning chain stitch is a little smaller than typical.

Tight Slip Stitch – Step 1
Tight Slip Stitch – Step 2

  1. Make slip stitch as usual.
  2. Without letting working yarn feed out, pull on hook to take out slack from slip stitch.

Happy Spring Basket

designed by Andee Graves / M2H Designs

Skill level:    Intermediate

Finished Size: 4.5” diameter at base, 3” tall in basket, and 6.25” with handle.

Materials:

Yarn 

Red Heart “With Love” (100% Acrylic), 7 oz/198 g; 370 yds/ 338 m, Color #1502 Iced Aqua

Red Heart “With Love – Stripes” (100% Acrylic), 5 oz/141 g; 223 yds/ 204 m, Color #1973 Candy Stripe

Hooks

I-9 / 5.5 mm

Notions

Yarn/tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Gauge:

Barely over 3″ at end of Rnd 4

Special Stitches or Abbreviations:

BPsc — Back Post Single Crochet

PM – Place stitch marker

Pattern Notes:

Basket is worked double-stranded with a smaller than usual hook to create a stiff fabric. It begins with a flat circle worked in joined rounds for the base, then the first round of side is worked as back post stitches to create a sharp edge to bottom of basket.

Handle is worked without cutting the yarn. A couple rows of single crochet are switched to working in joined rounds for length of handle, then a couple more rows of single crochet. Work is fastened off and then sewn to the opposite side on top edge of basket.

Instructions:

Base

Rnd 1: Working with 2 strands at same time, make an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 7 sc in second ch from hook, slip st to first sc of round. [7 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, slip st to first sc of round. [14 sc]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 7 times, slip st to first sc of round. [21 sc]

Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 7 times, slip st to first sc of round.  [28 sc]

Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 7 times, slip st to first sc of round. [35 sc]

Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 7 times, slip st to first sc of round. [42 sc]

Side

Rnd 1: Ch 1, BPsc in each st around, slip st to first st of round. [42 BPsc]

Rnd 2 – 8: Ch 1, sc in each st around, slip st to first st of round. [42 sc]

Handle

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn sc in next 5 sts, slip st to first st of row.

Rnd 4 – 25: Ch 1, sc in each st around, slip st to first sc of round.

Row 26: Ch 1, sc in each st.

Row 27: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sts.

Row 28: Repeat Row 27. Fasten off with 10 inch tail

Finishing

Count over 19 sts from both sides of the start of handle along top edge of basket. Sew loose end of handle to top edge of basket with a whip stitch to the remaining stitches opposite the handle start. Weave in all loose tails.

I hope you have a wonderful time making some baskets. Pop on over to my guest post at Mooglyblog.com for the pattern for crocheting the grass shown in the basket.

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

If you were wondering about the stitch marker I was using in the post for the grass pattern it was from this set of Clover stitch markers. I really like these markers because they are light weight, come in a variety of sizes and best of all…they are shaped to look like little sheep. Click on the image above and it will take you to where you can purchase them on Amazon.

Mountain Wildflower Afghan Square

It’s almost time for the singing to start with my birthday just around the corner. I have been considering the idea that I will continue to celebrate my birthday every year but I won’t add any more years. Theoretically it sounds good. So starting this year I am 55 forever. It is a nice round number.

My tradition the past 4 years has been to publish a complimentary crochet pattern for an Afghan Square here on the blog as a birthday gift from me to my readers. This year’s square is my “Mountain Wildflower Afghan Square”. It is Block #20 in the 2018 Moogly Afghan CAL as well.

This year I had a lot of fun playing with 2D texture. I used ch, slip st, sc, hdc, dc and cluster stitches. I am having you turn for some rounds, each round instructions are marked either RS or WS to help you stay on track.

There are times when you will be working toward a chain space that have a hdc before them. I wanted to talk a bit about the hdc before you get started crocheting and share the following photos as a guide.

The top of the hdc can look a lot like it is part of a chain space. This is good to keep in mind when working Round 7 of this square. In the photo above, the 2 pink arrows are showing the 2 chains of the ch-2 corner sp, the yellow arrow is the top of the last hdc before the chain space, the aqua arrow is the skipped st.

Sometimes it helps to get your finger behind the hdc to guide your hook.

This is the completed single crochet before the ch-2 space.

I used 4 colors in this square with 9 color changes. I’ve also listed the amounts of each color of yarn needed for 1 square, so you can have fun using up some of your scrap yarn stash. You could even use 9 different colors if you want. I have listed the amount of yarn needed for the 4 colors and there are break-outs in curly brackets for the amounts in each of the 9 color changes.

I chose the lighter green color for the third and fourth rounds to give the feel of leaves around the center flower.

Mountain Wildflower Afghan Square

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size:   12” (30 cm) square

Materials:

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn in 4 colors

Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

Color A: #1201 Daffodil (sample used approximately 18 yards/9 grams) for Rnd 1 {2 yds/1g} & Rnd 10-11 {16 yds/8g}

Color B: #1538 Lilac (sample used approximately 16 yards/8 grams) for Rnd 2 {4 yds/2g} & Rnd 12 {12 yds/6g}

Color C: #1562 Jadeite (sample used approximately 42 yards/21 grams) for Rnd 3-4{8 yds/4g} , Rnd 8-9 {17 yds/9g} & Rnd 13 {16 yds/8g}

Color D: #1621 Evergreen (sample used approximately 36 yards/18 grams) for Rnd 5-7 {17 yds/9g} & Rnd 14 {17 yds/9g}

Hook

J / 6mm

Notions

Yarn/tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Gauge

First 4 rounds of pattern = 4” across square

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

Right Side (RS): The side of fabric that will be considered the visible side of the fabric.

Wrong Side (WS): The side of fabric that will be considered the hidden side of the fabric.

Adjustable Slip Knot Start: Make your slip knot so the beginning tail tightens the loop on your hook. If you need further help with this technique I have a video, and a blog post that demonstrate it with more detail.

3 double crochet cluster st (Cl): (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.

Beginning 3 dc cluster st (Beg Cl): Ch 2, (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.

Loose slip stitch (loose slip st): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.

Joining slip st (slip st): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

V-stitch (V-st): (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated place.

Standing Double Crochet (Standing dc): make slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook) twice. If substituting for a chain start of a round, do not work the first 3 chains of the round instructions.

Pattern Notes:

Stitch counts at the end of each round and row are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round or row.

When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with flower center color (Color A). Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, sl st to top of beginning ch-4 of Rnd. Fasten off. [12 dc]

Rnd 2 (RS): Change to flower petal color (Color B): With RS facing, attach new color in any dc from Rnd 1, Beg Cl in same st as join, (ch 2, Cl in next st) 11 times, ch 2, sl st to top of Beg Cl. Fasten off. [12 ch-2 sp, 12 Cl]

Rnd 3 (RS): Change to Color C. With RS facing, attach new color in any ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 sc in same ch-2 sp, (3 sc in next ch-2 sp) 11 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [36 sc]

Rnd 4 (RS): Round to Square – Continue working with RS facing, ch 1, sc next st, [*ch 2, skip next 2 sts, (hdc, dc) next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) next st, PM in ch-2 sp just made, (dc, hdc) next st, ch 2, skip next 2 sts,* sc next 2 sts] 3 times; Repeat from * to * once, sc next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [8 sc, 8 hdc, 16 dc, 12 ch-2 spcs]

Rnd 5 (WS): Change to Color D. With WS facing attach new color into next ch-2 sp to left of a marked corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 sc in same ch-2 sp, [*sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked corner ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 2 sts,* 2 sc in next ch-2 sp,] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [56 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 6 (RS): Turn, ch 2, skip st where joined, *hdc in each st until reach marked corner ch-2 sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made,* Repeat from * to * 3 times, hdc in each st until reach start of Rnd, slip st to top of beginning ch-2. [64 hdc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 7 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first hdc, *sk 1 st, (hdc, dc) in next st, ch 1, (dc, hdc) in next st, skip next st, sc next st**, (hdc, dc, ch 2, dc, hdc) in marked corner ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next hdc,* [Repeat * to ** 2 times, Repeat * to * once] 2 times, Repeat * to ** once, skip next st, (hdc, dc) in next st, ch 1, (dc, hdc) in next st, skip next st, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [16 sc, 32 hdc, 32 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 8 (RS): Change to Color C. With RS facing, attach new color to a center ch-1 sp with slip st, *skip 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next sc, skip 2 sts, slip st loosely in next ch-1 sp,* [^skip 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next sc, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked corner ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made^, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 3 times, Repeat from ^ to ^ once, Repeat from * to * 2 times. [8 sc, 64 dc, 20 ch-2 sp 12 loose slip st]

Rnd 9 (WS): Turn, ch 1, *sc into ch-1 sp on Rnd 7 enclosing slip st from Rnd 8, ch 2, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, skip 2 sts*, Repeat from * to * once, [sc in next sc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked corner ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, skip 2 sts, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [60 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 36 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 10 (RS): Change to Color A. With RS facing attach yarn with slip st to first ch-1 sp in from right hand corner, ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, [*ch 1, skip next sc and ch-2 sp, V-st in next sc, ch 1,** skip next ch-2 sp and sc, sc in next ch-1 sp*, Repeat from * to * 2 times, Repeat from * to ** once, skip next sc, V-st in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-1 of V-st just made, ch 1, skip next sc, V-st in next sc, ch 1, skip next ch-2 sp and sc,^ sc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times, In 4th repeat of [ to ] end at ^, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [16 sc, 40 ch-1 sp, 24 V-st]

Rnd 11 (WS): Turn, ch 1, [*sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st*, Repeat from * to * 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-1 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, (Repeat from * to * 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, skip next sc,) 4 times] 4 times, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [116 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 12 (RS): Change to Color B. With RS facing attach new color with a standing dc in any sc along the middle of a side, [dc each st until reach ch-2 corner, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp] 4 times, dc each st until reach beginning of Rnd, slip st to top of first dc. Fasten off. [124 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnds 13 (WS): Change to Color C. With WS facing attach new color with a standing dc in any sc along the middle of a side, [dc each st until reach ch-2 corner, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp] 4 times, dc each st until reach beginning of Rnd, slip st to top of first dc. Fasten off. [132 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 14 (RS): Change to Color D. With RS facing attach new color with a standing dc in any sc along the middle of a side, [dc each st until reach ch-2 corner, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp] 4 times, dc each st until reach beginning of Rnd, slip st to top of first dc. Fasten off. [140 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Finishing

Weave in tails and block.

If you don’t want to make an entire afghan using this block pattern you can hop on over to check out the 2018 Moogly Afghan CAL and find some more block patterns to try out.

2×2 Shawl

As part of my continuing celebration of National Crochet Month I am sharing a pattern for my newest shawl design the 2×2 Shawl. I wanted to create a top down shawl in a simple stitch pattern that is relaxing and meditative to crochet. It is a perfect project to work on when crocheting with friends.

The simple stitch pattern really lets the vibrant color changes of Lion Brand Yarns “Shawl in a Ball” shine. Watching how the colors will come together is half the entertainment.  I wanted a big snuggly shawl that would really provide some coverage so I used 2 balls of this yarn.

I had only 22 g/70 yds of yarn left from the second ball. My favorite thing about a top-down shawl is that you can stop wherever you want, depending on the size shawl you want and the amount of yarn you have.

2×2 Shawl

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Easy

Finished Size:

2 balls = 74” (187.96 cm) wide x 32” (81.28 cm) tall

1 ball = 54” (137.16 cm) wide x 18” (45.72 cm) tall

Materials:

Yarn

Lion Brand Yarns “Shawl in a Ball” 58% Cotton, 39% Acrylic, 3% Other fiber (5.3 oz/150 g, 481 yd/440 m)

2 Balls of Color # 201 – Restful Rainbow

Hooks

J-10 / 6 mm

Notions

Yarn/tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Gauge:

Approximately 14 stitches and 5.5 rows = 4” (10.16 cm)

Special Stitches or Abbreviations:

PM – Place stitch marker

Pattern Notes:

Shawl is worked top-down with 3 increase points from a stacked rows foundation. 

If you wish to make a smaller shawl work the instructions for the body of the Shawl for fewer rows being sure to stop with a repeat of Row 4, then working the edging row (Row 35) to finish.

Instructions:

Foundation Rows

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in second ch from hook.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc.

Rows 4 – 41: Alternate repeating Rows 2 and 3 (ending with a Row 3).

Shawl Body

Row 1: Ch 3, turn to work into sides of sc rows, (3 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in first sc row, PM in ch-2 sp just made, *ch 2, skip next dc row, 2 dc in next sc row*, Repeat from * to * 8 times, ch 2, skip next dc row (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next sc row, PM in ch-2 sp just made, Repeat from * to * 9 times, ch 2, skip next dc row, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in last sc row, PM in ch-2 sp just made. [23 ch-2 sps, 50 dc]

The marked ch-2 spaces will be the increase points for the rest of the body of the shawl.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, skip 1 st, 3 dc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move marker up to ch-2 sp just made, [*ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp*, Repeat from * to * until work in marked ch-2 sp, (ch 2, 2 dc) in same marked ch-2 sp, move marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 2 times, ch 2, skip 1 st, 3 dc in next st. [27 ch-2 sps, 58 dc]

Row 3: Ch 3, turn, skip 1 st, 3 dc in next st, skip 1 st, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, skip 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move marker up to ch-2 sp just made, [*ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp*, Repeat from * to * until work in marked ch-2 sp, (ch 2, 2 dc) in same marked ch-2 sp, move marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 2 times, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, skip 1 st, 3 dc in next st. [29 ch-2 sps, 66 dc]

Row 4: Ch 3, turn, skip 1 st, 3 dc in next st, ch 2, skip 3 sts, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, [*ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp*, Repeat from * to * until work in marked ch-2 sp, (ch 2, 2 dc) in same marked ch-2 sp, move marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 3 times, Repeat from * to * until work in last ch-2 sp of Row, ch 2, skip 3 sts, 3 dc in next st. [33 ch-2 sps, 70 dc]

Row 5: Ch 3, turn, skip 1 st, 3 dc in next st, skip 1 st, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, [*ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp*, Repeat from * to * until work in marked ch-2 sp, (ch 2, 2 dc) in same marked ch-2 sp, move marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 3 times, Repeat from * to * until work in last ch-2 sp of Row, skip 1 st, 3 dc in next st. [35 ch-2 sps, 78 dc]

Rows 6 – 34: Alternate repeating Row 4 and Row 5 ending with a Row 4.

Stitch count at end of Row 34 [123 ch-2 sps, 250 dc]

If using only 1 ball of “Shawl in a Ball” stop at Row 22. [87 ch-2 sps, 178 dc]

Edging

Row 35: Ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next st, ch 2, 2 dc in next st, *skip next ch-2 sp, sc in next st, ch 2, 2 dc in next st*, Repeat from * to * until work in next to last st of Row, slip st in next st. Fasten off. [124 sc, 124 ch-2 sps, 248 dc]

Finishing

Weave in tails and block.

Spiraling Stripes Hat

I love spirals. You can probably tell that just by looking at my logo above. One of my happiest crochet moments was when I realized that I could crochet spirals, since then I have put them in many of my designs. My newest pattern is not only  a celebration of the beauty of spirals it is also a celebration of the functionality of spirals.

This is my Spiraling Stripes Hat. It is crocheted using 2 colors and a 2 – armed spiral. Spirals are another version of continuous rounds in crochet. This sort of construction makes a lovely elastic fabric for hats because you don’t have a seam of tight slip stitches joining each round.

The pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry Shop. This pattern includes a step by step photo tutorial and detailed stitch chart to help you understand crocheting the spiral.

I used Round Mountain Fibers worsted weight Superwash Merino wool for this hat. These were 2 colors from their Ornithology Collection: Puffin Blue and California Quail. Their hank size is 174 yards in 100 grams, so this is a slightly heavier weight worsted.

The CGOA Mega CAL continues

We are still celebrating National Crochet Month, which means a new pattern is now available for the CGOA Mega CAL.

This week’s pattern is “Almost Spring Mitts” designed by Karen McKenna. Be sure your CGOA membership is current because you won’t want to miss this out on this pattern and the others being offered the rest of this month.

Shining Day Wrap as Scarf 800 - Andee Graves M2H Designs

If you missed out on my Shining Day Wrap pattern don’t worry. It is now available for purchase thru my Ravelry Shop.