This is the perfect way to wrap up my Spiraling October on the last day of the month! I’m so excited to be able to share with all my readers about this new project with Furls Crochet. This is my “Spiraling Blocks Blanket” that is available as a kit on the Furls Website. This lovely blanket is a fun way to work with spirals in blocks that are then sewn together for a cozy layer that is perfect for decoration and warmth.
The kit comes with an intermediate level pattern and has instructions for making the blanket in 2 sizes. The Small Throw Kit – 6 blocks x 8 blocks; 40” x 53” {100 cm x 132.5 cm} is $95. The Regular Throw Kit – 8 blocks x 10 blocks; 53” x 66” {132.5 cm x 165 cm} is $145. That price includes your pattern, all the yarn for the size selected and a beautiful size I/5.5 mm Furls Streamline Hook.
For just this week my readers can get this kit for 15% off by using the coupon code ANDEE15 before November 3rd at 11 p.m. EDT, so go grab yours quick!
The kit is available in 4 color palettes at the Furls website: CLICK HERE TO GET YOURS! My blanket used the Vortex color pallette. Colors A – H (the first 7) are the arms of the spirals. For my blanket I picked the “Tundra” color as my Color A. Color I (the 8th Color) is your overall border color. It is used to border each spiral and for the finishing border of the blanket. You can see more details about the colors in each palette on the Furls website.
My Hawaiian inspired colors that I used.
The 8 Colors I selected for my blanket were colors that reminded me of my trip to Hawaii a couple years ago. A variety of blues and greens for the amazing changing shades of the ocean and some earthy tones for the gorgeous shoreline. If those colors aren’t appealing to you there are 3 other color combinations selected by the folks at Furls for you.
I designed this so my color A gives a pinwheel effect, yes it was the inspiration for my Block #21 for the Moogly blog that you saw earlier this month. You don’t have to fuss too much for this design as long as you have 1 arm of your spiral made with color A, it’s just all about how you orient the squares when you join them together.
The really great thing about this project is that it is very portable way of making a blanket. Each bordered spiral square is about 6.5 inches square, so they are super portable. I worked the individual spiral blocks carrying around the 4 colors I needed. Then had a bag of 10 spiral squares that I used while working on the outside border whenever I had a moment.
The photo above shows my pile of blocks as I was working on the block borders. I had a lot of fun taking this project along when I was running errands, especially when I was waiting in line.
Once I finished the blocks I laid them all out on my bed to decide on the order to join them. In the pattern I have provided a joining map and list of the number of blocks with the combinations of colors. I was going for a shore to sea feeling with my layout. You can mix and match colors and placement however you like it best though. That is part of the fun.
I hope you have as much fun making your Spiraling Blocks Blanket as I did. I was nice and cozy under it as I finished sewing together my blocks and then crocheting a final border around the outside. Be sure to grab your kit before November 3rd to get the 15% discount.
Thanks for going on this fun journey of spirals with me during the month of October. Next month is going to be all about Hats and the Holidays. If you are interested in taking my class on Zoom for the Linked Stitches Hat this coming Sunday, be sure to register online at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe.
Hello my friends, today is my actual Birthday! I’m 60 years young today! So I have a 6 inch blanket square to celebrate my 60th. Doesn’t everyone love alliteration with their crochet patterns?
Like all small spiral projects this is a great pattern to use up those odds and ends of worsted weight yarn that you have remaining from other projects. Just pick 2 contrasting colors for your spirals, you’ll only need 7 yards for each spiral arm.
This square is part of the Melange Blanket Mystery Crochet-Along with Underground Crafter. This is a year long project that is coming to a conclusion soon. Be sure to check out this post at Underground Crafter that has all the links for the other squares, great information on joining your squares together and the information and links you need to get in on a chance to win some of the marvelous give-away prizes.
Color A: Marina #28437 (approximately 7 yards/ 3.2 grams) Spiral Arm 1
Color B: Seashell #28447 (approximately 7 yards/ 3.2 grams) Spiral Arm 2
Color C: Tranquil #28453 (approximately 20 yards/9.5 grams) Square Border
Hook J / 6mm
Notions
Yarn/tapestry needle
8 Medium Locking Stitch markers (2 in one color, 6 in second color)
Gauge
First 5 rounds of pattern = 4” across circle
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
(Standing dc) Standing Double Crochet: make slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook) twice.
(sl st loosely) Loose slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.
(sl st) Slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(Edc)Extended Double Crochet: YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru first loop on hook, (YO, pull thru 2 loops on hook) 2 times.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. If you prefer to start with a magic loop crochet 1 less chain stitch at start.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round.
Square starts with a 2 color hdc spiral circle as the center, then rounds are worked to square the circle.
When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches for the next round.
Instructions
Spiral Circle
Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with Color A, ch 2, (sc, 3 hdc) in second ch from hook, pull up long loop of color A and remove hook, insert hook in same ch as previous work, pull up a loop of Color B on shaft of hook, ch 1, (sc, 3 hdc) in same ch st, pull beginning tail of Color A to close center tightly. Place st markers in each st using a different color marker to indicate the last st of each color section. [1 sc, 3 hdc, in each color]
Rnd 2: Begin with Color A, *(2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to *. [8 hdc, in each color]
Rnd 3: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to color B, Repeat from * to *. [12 hdc, in each color]
Rnd 4: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to *. [16 hdc, in each color]
Rnd 5: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to * once,
**hdc next st, sc next st, sl st loosely in back loop and back bar of next st, sl st in back loop and back bar of next st**, fasten off Color B, switch to Color A, Repeat from ** to ** once, fasten off Color A. [21 hdc, 1 sc, 2 slip st, in each color]
Square Border
Remove every other st marker leaving 4 markers equally spaced around circle.
Rnd 6 (Round to Square 1): With RS facing attach Color C yarn with a standing dc in any marked st, 2 Edc in same st, *skip 2 sts, hdc next st, hdc & sc next st, sc next st, sc & hdc next st, hdc next st, skip 2 sts, (2 Edc, dc, ch 2, dc, 2 Edc) next marked st, move marker to ch-2 sp just made*; Repeat from * to * 2 times; skip 2 sts, hdc next st, hdc & sc next st, sc next st, sc & hdc next st, hdc next st, skip 2 sts, (2 Edc, dc) in same st as join, ch 2, sl st to first dc of Rnd. [16 Edc, 8 dc, 16 hdc, 12 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 7 (Round to Square 2): Turn (sc, ch 1 {counts as first hdc}, hdc, ch 2, hdc ) in first marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made, [*hdc in each of next 4 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 4 sts,* (2 hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, sl st to top of first hdc. [48 hdc, 20 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {17 sts}]
Rnd 8: Turn, sc in first st, ch 1 {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st until reach start of Rnd, sl st to top of first hdc. [76 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps {19 sts each side}]
In keeping with my love of crocheting spirals I have a fun afghan square pattern for you all. This idea has been kicking around in my brain for a couple of years. I finally sat down and worked out the design with yarn and wrote up the pattern. It has a few challenges to keep it interesting, but those of you that are feeling intrepid will have lots of fun with it.
Worsted wt (Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/ 198 g, 370 yd/ 338 m)
Color A: Eggshell (sample used approximately 67.5 yards/ 36 grams)
Color B: Bluebell (sample used approximately 14 yards/ 7.5 grams)
Color C: Bubblegum Pink (sample used approximately 14 yards/ 7.5 grams)
Color D: Country Blue (sample used approximately 14 yards/ 7.5 grams)
Hook Size J (6 mm)
Notions
Medium Locking Stitch Markers: 8 in 1 color, 4 in 2nd color
Large Locking Stitch Markers 4 in any color
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Gauge Small spiral square = 4” across
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
Standing Single Crochet (Standing sc): make slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook.
Loose slip stitch (loose slip st): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.
Joining slip st (slip st): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
Double Crochet Cross Stitch (X-st): Skip one st, dc in next st, working around previously made dc, dc in skipped st. Each X-st uses 2 sts and creates 2 sts.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.
Stitch counts at the end of each round and row are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round or row.
Square starts with 4 small four color dc spiral squares that are joined together as the center, then a border of 5 rounds is worked as a frame.
When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches.
Instructions
Spirals (make 4)
Rnd 1: Begin with an adjustable slip knot in Color A, ch 2, (sc, hdc, dc) in second ch from hook {center ch st}, pull up working loop of current color and remove hook, place a large locking stitch marker in working loop to secure,
*insert hook in center ch st, pull up a loop of new color on shaft of hook, ch 1, working over beginning tail (sc, hdc, dc) in same ch st, pull up working loop of current color and remove hook, place a large locking stitch marker in working loop to secure*,
Rep from * to * with 2 other colors, 4 different colors total for the arms of your spiral, gently pull beginning tail of Color A to close center tightly. Place medium st markers in each st using a different color marker to indicate the last st of each color section. [1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc in each color]
Rnd 2: Begin with Color A, *(2 dc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 3 times, pull up working loop of current color and secure*, [switch to next color, Repeat from * to *] 3 times. [6 dc in each color]
Rnd 3: Begin with Color A, *(dc in next st, 2 dc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 3 times, pull up working loop of current color*, [switch to next color, Repeat from * to *] 3 times. [9 dc in each color]
Rnd 4 (Round to Square): Begin with Color A,
*Tr in next st, (Tr, ch 1, Tr) in next st, 2 dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st loosely in next st, sl st in back loop of next st*, cut Color A with 10” tail, [switch to next color, Repeat from * to *] 3 times, cut Color B & C with 6” tail, cut Color D with 10” tail. [3 Tr, 1 ch-1 sp, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 loose sl st, 1 sl st in each color,{44 sts and 4 ch-1 sp around. 2nd sl st is not counted}]
Weave in center tails of spiral. Weave in Color B & C ending tails. Sew 4 spiral squares together with a whip-stitch using Color A and D ending tails (refer to photo for placement).
PM in ch-1 sp corners of joined spirals block (Color C Corners).
Square Border
Rnd 1: With RS facing, attach Color A in 3rd st to the right of corner ch-sp with a standing sc, *sc in each st and ch-sp until reach the marked corner ch-sp, (sc, ch-2, sc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made*, Repeat from * to * 3 times, sc in each st and ch-sp until reach beginning of Rnd, sl st to first sc of rnd to join. [104 sc, 4 ch-2 sp, {26 sc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in st before join {counts as first X-st of Rnd}, *X-st over next 2 sts*, Repeat from * to * 11 times, [(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, Repeat from * to * 13 times] 3 times, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made, Repeat from * to * once, join to top of ch-3 with slip st. [52 X-sts, 16 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, {13 X-sts, 4 dc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 3: Turn, sc, ch 1 in first st {sc and ch 1 count as first hdc of Rnd}, [hdc in each st until reach marked ch-sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in marked ch-sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st until reach end of Rnd, join to first hdc with slip st. [128 hdc, 4 ch-2 sp {32 hdc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Rnds 4 & 5: Repeat Rnd 3.
Count end of Rnd 4 [136 hdc, 4 ch-2 sp {34 hdc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Count end of Rnd 5 [144 hdc, 4 ch-2 sp {36 hdc each side between ch-2 sps}]
It’s October and it’s definitely Autumn up here on my mountain. Most of our aspen trees have dropped their leaves, we have had a few traces of snow as well. I am loving the cooler temperatures. I’m really not cut out for super hot days and we had a lot of those this past couple of months. October has always been a favorite month for me because I love autumn, but it is also my Birthday this month.
It is a very special birthday this year as I am celebrating my 6th decade traveling around our sun. I wanted to do some extra fun things to celebrate with my marvelous readers and decided this month is going to be all about the Spirals! If you have been following my blog you already know that I have an abiding fondness for crocheting circles and spirals. Working in the round just makes me very happy.
I have been planning for this month all summer. Starting next week I’ll finally be able to share some fun new designs that have been in the top secret drawer all summer. But right now let’s take a quick look at some of my flat spiral designs of the past (just in case you missed them the first time).
My early design experiments with spirals involved working continuous rounds then working surface crochet to emphasize the spiral. The first 2 patterns listed below used this technique.
“Flat Fuzzy Friend” is available on the ‘Crochet Uncut’ website as a free pattern. This is a great lovey for a little one or even a fun whimsical gift for an older child. This pattern was published in 2010.
“Spiral in a Heart” is available here on my blog as a free pattern and makes a fun little embellishment. I like to make these to decorate hats and gloves for loved ones. They are also really cute on cuddle blankets. This pattern was published in 2011
I began to get more into the math of circles worked in the round and that that gave me the idea to play with spirals that had more than 1 arm. Once I started down this path I started having way too much fun. Since then I have continued to play with different height of stitches and number of arms to create designs that incorporate spirals.
“Whirlwind Afghan Square” this was my first afghan square for the Moogly CAL in 2015. You can find the free pattern for this square here on my blog.{Not the most exciting photo I’ve ever taken, but you get the idea.} I also have a video and additional blog posts on working this square.
“Dizzy Corner Afghan Square” this square was part of the 2017 Moogly CAL the pattern is available here on my blog for free. This post includes a detailed photo tutorial on crocheting the spiral circle.
“Whirling Ends Scarf” this fun scarf pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry shop. The pattern includes detailed photo tutorials and stitch charts for both the spirals and the body of the scarf. It was part of the Stitch Makers Virtual Crochet Conference in September 2019.
These are just a short review of some of the flat spiral designs I’ve created over the years. Next week we will have a couple of new designs to add to this list, so be sure to stop by again.
Hello my friends, I have another fun afghan square for you. I have been traveling and having all sorts of adventures with my family this summer. Early in June I went to Ireland with the Craft Tours trip hosted by Tamara Kelly of Moogly Blog. Appropriately this square pattern is Block #18 for the Moogly 2023 Afghan CAL and was inspired by the beautiful gardens we saw on the Ireland trip. You can find out more about the Moogly 2023 Afghan CAL and how Tamara adapted her colors for my design here.
Clematis Garden Afghan Square
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 12” square
Materials:
Yarn
Worsted wt (Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yd/338 m)
Color A: Daffodil (sample used approximately 2 yards/ 1.1 gram) Rnds 1-2
Color B: Oxford (sample used approximately 70 yards/ 37.6 grams) Rnds 3-4: 3.8 g, Rnds 9-13: 33.5 g
Color C: Lilac (sample used approximately 6.5 yards/ 3.5 grams) Rnd 5
Color D: Jade (sample used approximately 22.5 yards/ 12.1 grams) Rnds 6-8
Hook J / 6mm
Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers
Gauge First 4 rounds of pattern = 4” across square
Special Stitches and Abbreviations:
Place stitch marker (PM)
Standing Double Crochet (Standing dc): Make slip knot and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated place, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice.
4 dc Shell Stitch (Shl): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated place.
Single crochet spike stitch (scSpike): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop back to original round/row, 2 loops on hook, YO, pull thru both loops on hook to complete single crochet.
Extended Double Crochet stitch (ExtDC): YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 1 loop on hook, (YO, pull through 2 loops on hook) 2 times.
V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated place.
Granny Shell Stitch (GrShl): 3 dc in indicated place.
3 dc Cluster Stitch (CL): (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 3 times, YO pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.
Pattern Notes:
Square is worked center out. Attach yarn using a slip stitch unless otherwise stated. Keep tails to wrong side of fabric and weave in as work progresses. Ch 3 at beginning of rounds counts as a double crochet stitch unless otherwise stated. Be sure to pay close attention if a round is Right Side (RS) or Wrong Side (WS).
Instructions
Rnd 1 (WS): With Color A begin with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (sc, ch 2) 4 times in second ch from hook, sl st to first sc, gently tighten center of square, PM in ch-2 sps to mark corners. (4 sc, 4 ch- 2 spcs)
Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc.
Fasten off Color A. (12 sc, 4 ch- 2 spcs)
Rnd 3 (RS): With back side of Rnd 2 facing attach Color B with standing dc in middle sc of any side, dc in same st as join, [*sk next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, sk next st,* Shl in next st]3 times, repeat from * to * once, 2 dc in same st as join, ch 1, sl st to first dc of Rnd {completes first Shl of Rnd}. (4 Shl, 4 ch- 2 spcs)
Rnd 4 (RS): Ch 3, dc in same ch-sp as join, [ch 1, sk next 3 sts, Shl in next ch-sp] 7 times, move st markers up to ch-1 sp of Shls worked in marked ch-2 sps, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join, ch 1, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 {completes first Shl of Rnd}.
Fasten off Color B. (8 Shls, 8 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 5 (RS): With front side of Rnd 4 facing, attach Color C in ch-1 sp of side Shl with standing dc, dc in same ch-sp as join, [*ch 2, sk 2 sts, scSpike in corresponding sp between Shl and corner dc of Rnd 3, ch 2, sk 2 sts, Shl in marked ch-1 sp of next Shl, move st marker up to ch-1 sp of Shl just made, ch 2, sk 2 sts, scSpike in next corresponding sp between corner dc and next Shl of Rnd 3, ch 2, sk 2 sts,* Shl in ch-1 sp of next Shl] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join, ch 1, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3, {completes first Shl of Rnd}.
Fasten off Color C. (8 Shls, 16 ch-2 sps, 8 scSpike)
Rnd 6 (RS) Squaring up: With front side of Rnd 5 facing, attach Color D to ch-1 sp of side Shl, ch 1, sc in same sp as join, [*ch 1, sk 2 sts and ch-sp, (2 Tr, ExtDC) in next st, ch 2, sk ch-sp and 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-1 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 2, sk 2 sts and ch-sp, (2 Tr, ExtDC) in next st, ch 1, sk ch-sp and 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next Shl] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc of Rnd.
(4 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 16 Tr, 8 ExtDC, 12 ch-2 sp, 16 dc {17 sts each side between corner ch-2 sps})
Rnd 7 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first ch-1 sp, [*sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 space just made, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st,* sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc of Rnd.
(76 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {19 sc each side between corner ch-2 sps})
End of Rnd 7 WS of Square
End of Rnd 7 from RS of Square
Rnd 8 (RS) V-sts: Ch 4, turn, dc in next st {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 3 times, [*(dc, ch-2, dc) in marked ch-sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, V-st in next st,* (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 6 times] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, sk 2 sts, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 to join.
Fasten off Color D. (28 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 9 (RS) Granny Shls: With front side of Rnd 8 facing, attach Color B with standing dc in ch-1 sp of any V-st along a side, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join {counts as first GrShl}, *sk 2 sts, GrShl in ch-1 sp of next V-st,* Repeat from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, sk 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, sl st to first dc of first GrShl to join.
(28 GrnShl, 16 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {25 sts each side between corner ch-2 sps})
Rnd 10 (WS) Bobbles: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, (CL in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) 4 times, CL in next st, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, CL in next st,* (sc in each of next 2 sts, CL in next st) 8 times] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, (sc in each of next 2 sts, CL in next st) 3 times, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd.
(36 CL, 72 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {27 sts each side between ch-2 sp corners})
End of Rnd 10 WS of Square
End of Rnd 10 RS of Square
Rnd 11 (RS): Turn, sc, ch 2 {counts as first dc}, [dc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, dc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, sl st to join to 2nd ch of first ch-2.
(124 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {31 dc each side between ch-2 sp corners})
Rnd 12 (WS): Repeat Rnd 11. (140 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {35 dc each side between ch-2 sp corners})
End of Rnd 12 RS of Square
Rnd 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move stitch marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, sl st to first sc to join.
Fasten off Color B. (148 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {37 sc each side between ch-2 sp corners})
It’s beginning to warm up more days on my mountain and the bunnies are venturing out to see if they can find any fresh greens to nibble. We will still get some snow storms before our real warm weather arrives, but I am enjoying every hour of warmth we get. Easter is coming up this weekend and I have a fun little crochet pattern for you. The written version is below, for those of you that prefer a stitch chart or PDF version you can purchase it in my Ravelry Shop by clicking here.
Spring Bunny
designed by Andee Graves
This fun little bunny can be worked flat facing either left or right. Add your bunny as an embellishment to hats, mittens, sweaters or blankets. Or make the stuffy version for a fun little toy to add to Easter baskets or as a gift for a bunny lover in your life.
Finished Size: Finished bunny is approximately 4.25” tall
Materials
Yarn: Worsted Weight yarn, #4 weight category,
1 Flat Bunny uses approximately 7-10 yards of yarn. Stuffy Bunny uses approximately 15 – 20 yards of yarn
Sample was made with Premier “Every Day Worsted Anti-Pilling”, 180 yds/165 m, 3.5 oz/100 g,
Hook: H / 5mm or size needed to obtain gauge.
Notions: Yarn/tapestry needle, Poly fiber fill if making stuffy
Gauge: First 2 dc rounds = 2 3/8” (6 cm) diameter
Special Stitches:
Chain 4 Picot (ch-4 Picot) Chain 4, slip stitch in previous stitch made using front loop and top side loop.
Pattern Notes
Round 1 of stitches is worked into an adjustable slip knot, if you prefer the magic circle start, make 1 less chain stitch at the start of Round 1.
For Stuffy version use the scraps left from weaving in the beginning tails and Side 1 ending tail to stuff the bunny’s head.
Instructions for Flat Bunny
Right Facing Bunny
Rnd 1: Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 3 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in third chain from hook, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (12 dc) Tighten center and weave in beginning tail.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 {counts as first dc}, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 4 sts, (dc, ch-4 Picot, dc) in next st, 2 dc in each of next 6 sts, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc, 1 ch-4 Picot)
Row 3 (Bunny head): Ch 3 {counts as first Tr}, Tr in same st as join, 3 Tr in next st, *ch 7, working in back bumps of chs just made, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip st thru front loop and top side loop of previous Tr, * {first ear made}, Rep from * to * once, {second ear made}, (dc, ch 2, slip st) in next st. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 6 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc)
Left Facing Bunny
Rnd 1: Work same as Right Facing Bunny.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 {counts as first dc}, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 7 sts, ch-4 Picot, 2 dc in each of next 4 sts, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc, 1 ch-4 Picot)
Row 3 (Bunny head): Ch 2, dc in same st as join, *ch 7, working in back bumps of chs just made, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip st thru front loop and top side loop of previous dc, *{first ear made}, Rep from * to * once, {second ear made}, 3 Tr in next st, (Tr, ch 3, slip st) in next st. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 6 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc)
Finishing
Weave in ending tail or use to sew bunny to project.
Instructions for Bunny Stuffy
Side 1 Bunny
Rnds 1 – 2: Work same as Right Facing Flat Bunny. Save beginning tail scrap.
Row 3 (Bunny head): Work same as Right Facing Flat Bunny but work only first Ear. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 4 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc) Weave in ending tail, saving ending tail scrap.
Side 2 Bunny
Rnds 1 – 2: Work same as Left Facing Flat Bunny. Save beginning tail scrap.
Row 3 (Bunny head): Work same as Left Facing Flat Bunny but work only first Ear. Fasten off leaving 20” long tail. (5 Tr, 4 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc)
Finishing
Holding Side 1 and 2 with WS together, using a whip stitch sew around Rnd 2 of body of bunny from 1 side of head to other, place a bit of fiber fill stuffing inside circle of bunny body. Sew along base of bunny head to close circle.
Sew around head, using a whipstitch and leaving bunny ears free, use beginning tail and ending tail scraps to lightly stuff head before sewing nose. Weave in last tail and trim excess.
In the image above you can see how I squished my bunny stuffy to make him sit on a flat bottom. I didn’t stuff the body very firmly so that I had some squishability when the bunny was finished.
I hope you are having a wonderful return to spring and enjoy crocheting some bunnies of your own.
I love March. It is National Crochet Month, National Crafting Month and it has my favorite geeky day…Pi Day.
March 14 is written as 3/14 for most of us here in the US and 3.14 is the short form for Pi. For those of you uncertain what Pi is…it is a mathematical constant that is the ratio of a circle’s circumference to its diameter, approximately equal to 3.14159. It also appears in many formulae across mathematics and physics.
For my crochet design work I tend to use the short form of 3.14. That is more than enough accuracy for creating circles for hats, bags and rugs.
This month I’ve been busy with fun crochet projects at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe. We yarn bombed the tree in front of the shop. My friend Margie in the Casual Crochet group also has us all participating in “Random Acts of Crochet Kindness”. My favorites are the ones made using Googly Eye Finger Puppets.
Like this snuggly “Pocket Hug”. If you would like to make your own Pocket Hug I’ve included the pattern here today. I had fun coming up with the basic circle that I used for this pattern. I had to get a little creative with how I worked the center of the circle, since it is worked around the ring of the Googly Eye Finger Puppet.
CL (2 double crochet Cluster Stitch) – (yo, insert hook in indicated place, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.
Pattern Notes:
Round 1 of stitches is worked into the finger ring of the googly eye puppet.
Instructions
Circle with Arms
Rnd 1: With googly eyes of puppet facing, attach yarn with a slip st in the puppet finger ring, ch 1, 10 sc in ring, ch 2, bring hook behind googly eyes, sl st to join to first sc worked in ring. (10 sc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 2: (Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc) in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 9 sts, 4 dc in ch-2 sp, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2 {counts as first hdc}, hdc in next st, 2 hdc next st, hdc in next st, ^ ch 6, CL in 3rd st from hook, sc in back bar of each of next 3 chs, sl st thru front loop and side loop of previous hdc,^ hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, *(hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st)3 times,* Rep from ^ to ^ once, Rep from * to * once, sl st to join to top of beginning ch-2. (32 hdc, 6 sc, 2 CL)
Heart
This is my Simple Sweetheart pattern from February 2012
Rnd 1: Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. (7 sc)
Rnd 2: Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, (dc, picot, dc) in next st, dc in next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd 1. Fasten off. (14 dc, 1 picot)
Finishing
Use tails for sewing pieces together. Sew Heart to front of Circle below eyes. Fold arms of circle so they are hugging the heart, sew in place. Weave in any remaining tails.
I hope you are all enjoying the festive season. It seems like December gets here faster every year. But to start off my December I have a fun little pattern to share with you, this little bear can be an ornament on your tree or stocking stuffer. They have a pouch to hold a standard gift card on their back.
This pattern is part of the 2022 Holiday Stashdown CAL you can find all the details on following along or catching up by clicking on the Stashdown link above. The Holiday Stashdown CAL is the fifth and final crochet along of 2022 hosted in the CAL Central Facebook and Ravelry groups. This call includes 22 free crochet patterns for winter holiday gifts, decorations, gift wrap, and more! Join us to make wonderful projects, chat with other crocheters, and enter for your chance to win a prize!
I chose this little bear gift card holder because you can make them with bits of yarn left over in your stash from other projects. The entire project takes less than 65 yards to crochet.
A Very Beary Christmas (Gift Card holder)
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill Level: Intermediate
Description: Slide a gift card into the pouch of this sweet little teddy bear as a fun way to celebrate the holidays with your family or friends. Make them for stocking stuffers or add a hanging loop to add to your holiday tree.
Notions: Safety Eyes (9-10 mm) or buttons for Bears eyes (if making for a child under 5 years embroider eyes with black yarn), black pearl cotton for embroidering mouth, appropriate yarn and embroidery needles for finishing, a handful of polyfill for stuffing.
Hooks H-8/5mm
Gauge: 4 rounds for Head Back = 2”/5 cm diameter in “With Love”; 1 7/8”/4.7 cm diameter in “Ultra Wool”.
Pattern notes: All rounds for bear are worked in spirals unless otherwise noted. Use an adjustable slip knot to make tightening center of rounds easier. Weave in beginning tails as you finish each piece or when instructed in pattern. Leave long tails at ends of pieces to use to sew bear together. Pouch is made in joined rounds without turning. You may find it helpful to use a stitch marker in the last stitch of the round to help you keep track of rounds.
The RS of fabric for all the bear pieces is the back side of your fabric, the WS is the front of stitches.
Instructions:
Head (Back) Bear Color
Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st) 6 times. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times.(18 sc)
Rnd 4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times, fasten off with 6 inch tail. (24 sc)
Head (Front) Bear Color with Nose Color
Rnd 1: With main color, ch 2, (3 sc, {switch to nose color} 3dcCL {switch back to main color}, 3 sc) in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc, 1 CL)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in CL, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts. (13 sc)
Rnd 3: (*sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*) 3 times, sc in each of next 3 sts, Rep from * to * 2 times. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around, fasten off with a 10 inch long tail.
Ears (make 2) Bear Color
Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in next 3 sts, sl st next 2 sts, fasten off with 8 inch long tail.
Arms (make 2) Bear Color
Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, weave in beginning tail.
Rnd 3: (1 sc in next st, sc2tog next st) 3 times.
Rnd 4 – 7: sc in each st around, fasten off with an 8 inch long tail.
After Rnd 4 lightly stuff hand end with poly fill.
Legs (make 2) Bear Color
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, weave in beginning tail.
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 4: (1 sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts) 3 times.
Rnd 5 – 8: Sc in each st around, fasten off with an 8 inch long tail.
After Rnd 5 lightly stuff foot end with poly fill.
Body (make 1) Bear Color
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in back bar of 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in sam place as first 3 sc. (7 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, 4 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. (15 sc)
Rnd 3: *(Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 3 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (21 sc)
Rnd 4: *(Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 4 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (27 sc)
Rnd 5: *(Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 5 sts, 3 st in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (33 sc)
Rnd 6: *Sc in each of next 16 sts*, 3 st in next st, Repeat from * to * once, sl st in next 2 sts, fasten off with a 10 inch long tail. (35 sc)
Card Pouch (make 1) Pouch color
Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 11, sc in back bar of 2nd ch from hook, sc in back bar of each rem ch to end, turn to work along the opposite side of chain, sc in each 10 sts, sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)
Rnds 3 – 16: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off.
Bowtie (make 1) Bow Color
Ch 15, sl st tightly in 10th ch from hook, ch 9, sl st tightly in 10th ch from hook, ch 5, fasten off. Pull on beginning and ending tails to tighten knots. Trim short.
Cut an additional 10 inch length of same color, wrap around center of bow 2 or 3 times and tie in back, use loose ends to sew in place on bear following finishing directions.
Finishing
Embroider mouth on RS of Front Head. Sew buttons or place safety eyes on Front of Head.
Sew front and back of head together using a whip stitch joining last rounds. Leave a small opening and stuff with fiberfill, after stuffing sew opening closed.
Sew body of bear to front layer of card pouch using photo for reference as to placement. It is helpful to have a card in pouch while sewing. Sew to front layer of pouch using a whip stitch, leaving a small opening and stuff with fiberfill, after stuffing sew opening closed.
Sew ears, with tops pointed outward and WS facing forward, to either side of top half of bear’s head.
Sew Head to top of body and front layer of pouch
Using long ending tail sew Arms and Legs to body spaced as in photo.
Place bow in front under head on body, sew in place.
Weave in any remaining tails. Add your favorite method for ornament hanging to top of Bear’s head.
Happy Birthday to me! Again! That means it is time for an Afghan Block pattern in celebration of another trip around the sun! My block is #21 in the 2022 Moogly Afghan CAL too. You can find out more about the CAL and the links to the other blocks over on Mooglyblog.com. Check out what Tamara did with my block on her post about Block #21.
I had a lot of fun creating this block, especially since I was doing my favorite style of design where I go from 1 shape to another. In this block that is Round to Square. I’ve labeled the different parts of the pattern to help you stay on track when working your square.
Floating Star Afghan Block
designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 12” square
Materials:
Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),
Color A: #1304 Santorini – Rnds 1-3, 13-14 (used 18.1 g / 34 yds)
Color B: #1502 Iced Aqua – Rnds 4-5, 8-12 (used 29.4 g / 55 yds)
Color C: #1101 Eggshell – Rnds 6 -7 (used 9.9 g / 18 yds)
Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge
Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers
Gauge First 3.5 rounds of pattern = 4” across diameter
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
(PM) Place Marker
(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
(Ch 3 picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop and top side loop of previous stitch, slip stitch tightly.
(Fan) Pointed Fan Stitch: (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp.
(Standing dc) Standing double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] 2 times.
(Standing hdc) Standing half double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
(Standing BPdc) Standing Back Post double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double stitch.
(BPTr) Back Post Treble: YO twice, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard treble stitch.
(BPdc) Back Post double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double crochet stitch.
(BPhdc) Back Post half double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard half double crochet stitch.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.
Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
All rounds are joined with a tight slip stitch to the indicated stitch or chain.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. After Rnd 8, stitch counts along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count and do not include corner chain spaces.
Instructions
Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in 4th chain from hook, join {see pattern notes} to top of beg ch. [12 dc]
Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 4 {counts as first dc and ch-1 sp}, [dc in next st, ch 1] 11 times, join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. [12 dc, 12 ch-1 sp]
Rnd 3 (RS): (sl st, ch 3 {counts as first dc}, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 11 times, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color A. [36 dc]
Rnd 4 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing dc in 2nd dc of a 3 dc group, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [ch 1, skip 2 sts, V-st in next st] 11 times, ch 1, join to first dc of rnd. [12 V-st, 12 ch-1 sp]
Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in first dc of next V-st, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st] 11 times, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color B [60 dc]
Rnd 6 (RS): Attach Color C with Standing dc in center dc that was worked in a ch-1 sp of Rnd 4 V-st, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in sp before next dc, skip 2 sts,* V-st in next dc] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first dc of rnd. [24 V-sts]
Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp of first V-st, [*skip 2 sts, Fan in ch-1 sp of next V-st, skip 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next V-st] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first sc of rnd. Fasten off Color C. [12 Fans, 12 sc]
Round to Square
Rnd 8 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing BPdc around post of first dc of a Fan, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,
[ch 1, *skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc next st, BPTr next st, skip next sc, BPTr next st, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,* ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, BPdc each of next 2 sts, BPhdc next st] 3 times, ch 1, Rep * to * once, ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, join to first BPdc of rnd. PM in ch-3 sps to mark 4 corners. [16 BPTr, 32 BPdc, 24 BPhdc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 sp]
Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-3 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, join to first sc of rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 48 sc, 8 loose sl st, 8 hdc, 32 dc] {24 sts per side}
Rnd 10 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in next st of Rnd 9, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made,
dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in each of next 3 sts of Rnd 9] 4 times, join to first sc of Rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 40 sc, 16 hdc, 56 dc] {28 sts per side}
Square Rounds to 12”
Rnd 11 (WS): Turn, (sc, ch 1) in first st {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in marked ch sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join to first hdc. [120 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {30 sts per side}
Rnd 12 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in marked ch sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. [128 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {32 sts per side}
Rnd 13 (WS): With WS facing attach Color A with Standing hdc to any st on side, Rep Rnd 11. [136 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {34 sts per side}
Weave in tails and block. When pinning out to block it is helpful to pin points of star to lay flat and then gently steam to make them lay down on the surface of the block.
For those of you that may be wondering why the blog has been so quiet, I have been a busy little bee working on lots of freelance designs for various publications. I’ll share more about those designs once they are published. I’ve also been working away on developing more classes to teach at local shops, fiber festivals and hopefully online soon.
I have my annual afghan square pattern for you all to enjoy in celebration of my birthday. It is also Square #21 of the 2021 Moogly Afghan CAL. This is the “Touch of Love Afghan Square” and I’ve shown it in the above photo in 3 different color styles. The pattern does not include instructions on changing colors, I’ve left that decision to you. I have included information on how much yarn of each color I needed for the 3 samples I made.
Sample 1 is a single color that lets the texture of the stitches be the star.
Sample 2 uses accent color changes with the hearts in a solid color.
Sample 3 uses color changes on each bobble stitch round to create additional texture and really makes the hearts pop out. When I worked with the 2 colors in the center heart square I didn’t cut my yarn between color changes. Instead I pulled a loop of the next color up through the slip stitch that joined the previous color. I tightened the slip stitch, then pulled up a long loop of the previous color and put a locking stitch marker in it to keep the loop from being lost. After working the new color round I used the same method to switch back to my previous color. There is a little “holding your mouth just right” with this method, but it is well worth saving yourself having to weave in a bunch of ends when you finish the square.
Tamara’s version of my square is shown in the photo above. She chose to change colors at the same points I did for my Sample 2 of the square. You can read about how she worked the square and see the other wonderful squares in this year’s CAL by visiting the Moogly Blog.
Typically when working bobble textures on a project I design it in a graph with single crochets as the background. I wanted a softer fabric for this afghan square, so I used a linen stitch as the background. This took a little experimenting to get the balance for the fabric to have drape and the bobbles to “pop”. I hope you’ll be as happy with the result as I am.
Pattern is available here in text form and also available for purchase as an Ad-free PDF that includes stitch charts for the entire block in my Ravelry Shop.
Touch of Love Afghan Square
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 12” square
Materials:
Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love”, 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m)
(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
(PM) Place Marker
(3dcCL) 3 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.
(4dcCL) 4 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 4 times, YO pull thru remaining 5 loops on hook.
(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. (Video tutorial)
Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. Overall counts of stitches along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count.
In Round 19 and 20 the V-stitches are started with a chainless single crochet and 3 chains as the first double crochet and ch-1 of the V-stitch. The rounds are joined with a slip stitch to the 2nd chain of that first ch-3.
Instructions
Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (sc, ch 2) 4 times in 2nd chain from hook, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd. PM in each ch-2 sp. [4 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn [(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [8 sc, 4 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 3 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd. [12 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {5 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 4 (WS):Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [4 4dcCL, 16 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {7 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [20 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {9 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 6 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp,* ch 1, skip 1 next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, Rep from * to * once, 3dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 4 3dcCL, 24 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {11 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, {sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [28 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {13 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 8 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 8 3dcCL, 32 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {15 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [52 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {17 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next 2 sts/sps, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, ch 1, skip 1 next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 8 3dcCL, 48 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {19 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [60 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {21 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 12 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 4dcCL in next st, {sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 2 times, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 12 3dcCL, 48 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp] {23 sts btwn ch-2 sps}
Rnds 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 6 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st/sp} 5 times, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [52 sc, 48 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {25 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 14 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*{sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st} 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st,* {sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 next st} 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, 4dcCL in next st, Rep from * to * once] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [12 4dcCL, 16 3dcCL, 56 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {27 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 15 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [76 sc, 40 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {29 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 16 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*sc in next 2 st/sp, {4dcCL in next st, sc in next st} 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp,* {ch 1, skip 1 next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, Rep from * to * once, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [16 4dcCL, 72 sc, 36 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {31 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 17 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 8 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st/sp} 7 times, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [68 sc, 64 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {33 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 18 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st/sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [140 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {35 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 19 (RS): Turn, (sc, ch 3, dc) in first st {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in next st*, Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts remain un-worked, skip last 2 sts, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch-3. [52 V-sts, 4 ch-2 sp {13 V- sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 20 (WS): Ch 1, turn, skip next st, (sc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-1 sp {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in next st,* Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts remain un-worked, skip last 2 sts, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch-3. [52 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {13 V- sts & 2 dc btwn ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 21 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [172 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {43 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]
Mamas2Hands 