Retro Ric-Rac Afghan Square

Another trip around the sun and another Afghan Square pattern for my readers. Once again I wanted to create a square that is a little easier than some of my other squares. This square has a bit of a Retro vibe with skinny V-stitches creating the fun Ric Rac border. The square starts off with a classic granny square for round 1, then alternating colors for each round worked in Linen Stitch to create a fun striped effect.

This square is Block #21 in the 2025 Moogly CAL. You can see Tamara’s notes on her square here at MooglyBlog.com as well as finding the links to the other CAL blocks.

Retro Ric Rac Afghan Square

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:         Easy Intermediate

Finished Size:  12” square

Materials:

Yarn  – Worsted weight yarn in 3 colors – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

Color A: #1101 Eggshell {aprox 31 g, 58 yds/53 m}

Color B: #1502 Iced Aqua {aprox 40 g, 74 yds/68 m}

Color C: #1538 Lilac {aprox 14 g, 26 yds/24 m}

Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge

Notions – Yarn/tapestry needle, Locking stitch markers (4)

Gauge – First 6 rounds of pattern = 4” across square

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the primary/public side of the fabric.

(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the back side of the fabric.

(PM) Place Marker

(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop through indciated place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight. Where instructed for color changes, pull a loop of old color and new color through loop on hook.

(Standing dc) Standing Double Crochet: Make slip knot and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated place, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice.

(SkV-st) Skinny V-stitch: 2 dc in indicated st or sp, next row or round 2 dc are worked between the 2 dc on previous row or round.

Pattern Notes:

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.

Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.

Stitch counts at the end of each round and row are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round.

Center will be started with granny shells then worked in linen stitch, switching between 2 colors each round {without cutting yarn} to create vertical stripes, then 5 rounds of Stacked Skinny V sts to create zig-zags changing colors each round. Final 2 rounds of single crochet are both worked as RS rounds.

Rounds are not turned for every round, check if Round is listed as RS or WS.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS) Color A: Begin with Color A. Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc},

(dc, ch 2, {3 dc, ch 2} 3 times, dc) in 4th chain from hook, sl st to join to top of beginning ch, PM in each ch-2 sp. [4 Shl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 2 (RS) Color A: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [ch 1, skip next st (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 1, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd pulling up a loop of Color B through sl st {you will have a loop both colors on hook} Do Not Fasten off Color A, pull up longer working loop of Color A and move to WS of square along with working yarn of Color A. [12 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 3 (WS) Color B: With Color B, ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd pulling up previous loop of Color A through sl st. Do Not Fasten off Color B, pull up longer working loop of Color B and move to WS of square along with working yarn of Color B. [16 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 4 (RS) Color A: With Color A, ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 2 times, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp*} 3 times, ch 1] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, ch 1, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd pulling up previous loop of Color B through sl st. Do Not Fasten off Color A, pull up longer working loop of Color A and move to WS of square along with working yarn of Color A. [20 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 5 (WS) Color B: With Color B, ch 1, turn, [*sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st*, Repeat from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1] 4 times, Repeat from * to * until reach beginning of Rnd, join with sl st first sc of Rnd pulling up previous loop of Color A through sl st. Do Not Fasten off Color B, pull up longer working loop of Color B and move to WS of square along with working yarn of Color B. [24 sc, 20 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 6 (RS) A: With Color A, ch 1, turn, [*sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st*, Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1] 4 times, Rep from * to * until reach beginning of Rnd, join with sl st first sc of Rnd pulling up previous loop of Color B through sl st. Do Not Fasten off Color A, pull up longer working loop of Color A and move to WS of square along with working yarn of Color A. [28 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 7 (WS) B: Repeat Rnd 5. [32 sc, 28 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 8 (RS) A: Repeat Rnd 6. [36 sc, 32 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 9 (WS) B: Repeat Rnd 5. Fasten off Color B. [40 sc, 36 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 10 (RS) A: Repeat Rnd 6. Fasten off Color A. [44 sc, 40 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 11 (WS): With Color C and wrong side facing, begin with Standing dc in any ch-1 sp along a side, dc in same sp as first st {counts as first SkV-st of Round}, skip next st, [SkV-st in each ch-1 sp until reach marked ch-2 sp at corner, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp until reach start of Rnd, join with sl st to Standing dc at start. Fasten off Color C. [40 SkV-st, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 12 (RS): With Color A and RS facing, begin with Standing dc between 2 dc of any SkV-st along a side, dc in same place as first st {counts as first SkV-st of Round}, skip next 2 sts, [SkV-st in between the 2 dc of each SkV-st until reach marked ch-2 sp at corner, (SkV-st, ch 2, SkV-st) in ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, SkV-st in between the 2 dc of each SkV-st until reach start of Rnd, join with sl st to Standing dc at start. Fasten off Color A. [48 SkV-st, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 13 (WS): With Color B and WS facing, begin with Standing dc between 2 dc of any SkV-st along a side, dc in same place as first st {counts as first SkV-st of Round}, skip next 2 sts, [SkV-st in between the 2 dc of each SkV-st until reach marked ch-2 sp at corner, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, SkV-st in between the 2 dc of each SkV-st until reach start of Rnd, join with sl st to Standing dc at start.

Fasten off Color B. [48 SkV-st, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 14 (RS): Repeat Rnd 12. [56 SkV-st, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 15 (WS): With Color C, repeat Rnd 13. [56 SkV-st, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 16 (RS): With Color A and RS facing, attach with sl st to any st along the side, ch 1, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each st until reach start of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [128 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 17 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each st until reach start of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [136 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Finishing

Weave in tails and block.

Linked Stitches Hat

October is almost done and I’m winding down my spiral blog posts. I wanted to share a different sort of spiral with you all today. As you know I love crocheting in the round, it is a great way to create amazing borders on a project as well as a fun way to create shaping. Today I want to talk about continuous rounds in crochet.

Working a continuous round in crochet is often a spiral style. Especially when you are crocheting top down hats or amigurumi. When you work concentric rounds in crochet you join the first stitch to the last stitch of the round, but for continuous rounds you are working the rounds without joins and step-up to the first stitch of the next round after the last stitch of the previous round. Continuous rounds also eliminate those pesky seams. When working an increasing circle, like for the crown of a hat, your rounds look like a classic spiral.

My flat fuzzy friend is an example of a classic double crochet spiral worked as a continuous round, then surface crochet is worked to emphasize the spiral.

I used the classic double crochet spiral as a continuous round for my Simple Double Crochet Hat design as well. But I don’t really like how open the stitches are for a hat made with double crochet stitches. That open stitch work is great for a warm climate hat, but on my mountain I need something a little less breezy. This inspired me to start playing around with how to work a double crochet hat that didn’t have all the open spaces.

Last spring I bought a beautiful silk scarf with a rainbow of colors and decided I needed a hat to go with it. I had lots of fun selecting a yarn at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe that would match it. The selected yarn was Cosette by Dream in Color and is a glorious cashmere blend that was a delight to work with. My plan was to use the yarn to crochet a double crochet hat that used linked double crochet stitches.

I took that project with me on my trip to Philadelphia and Ireland. It was a great project to work on when traveling as it was small enough to fit in my carry-on for flights and my day-pack during our various bus trips. After a lot of experiments and little bit of frogging I finally settled on how I wanted the design to work.

The finished hat is my Snowy Rainbow Hat. The pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry Shop. This pattern includes stitch charts and instructions on making the hat in various sizes.

I’m also teaching a class on working this hat at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe, Sunday, November 5th 12:30 p.m. – 3:30 p.m. (Mountain Time) {2:30 p.m. – 5:30 p.m. Eastern; 1:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Central, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Pacific}. This class will be a hybrid class, so you can join me via Zoom or In-person. You can register for the Zoom seats here on the Longmont Yarn Shoppe website, and for the In-person seats here. For the class I recommend working with a solid color worsted weight yarn, the image above shows the hat worked in Berroco’s Ultra Wool. In class we will make a baby size hat so you can practice all the elements of making the hat and learning linked double crochet stitches in the round.

With cold weather and holiday gift giving right around the corner, hats are a great project to have in your works-in-progress. If you want to personalize your hat gifts you can have fun adding little embellishments. I love to add flowers to my hats or little snowflakes. For the younger members on my gift list I will sometimes turn a basic hat into a monster face. I made one for my nephew years back and when he outgrew it he asked me to turn it into a ball.

Hats using Spirals

In keeping with my crochet spirals theme I wanted to share some dimensional spirals with you. So far everything I’ve shared has been flat spirals but they are also wonderful for making hats with. I like making my hats from the crown down to the brim to take full advantage of the stretchiness of the fabric. My favorite method is to work continuous rounds, which is basically a spiral. Creating hat patterns that use different color spiral arms is an easy adjustment. 2 of my favorite spiral hats are below.

Whirlwind Hat

This hat pattern is sized for a small adult head (circumference 21″) here on my blog. This pattern uses a four-arm spiral to create a colorfully striped top-down hat. It is a great pattern for using up leftover bits of yarn from your stash. Each spiral arm uses approximately 28 yards, 1 spiral uses 46 yards as it is a spiral arm and the brim. Click here to check out the pattern.

Spiraling Stripes Hat

This 2 arm spiral hat that was inspired by the folks at Round Mountain Fibers. They hand-dye some incredible colors. I wanted to create a hat that would blend a semi-solid and variegated color together. The sample I made had some interesting pooling of the colors so I got an almost plaid look in the finished hat.

This is another sample I made from the pattern using 2 solid color worsted weight yarns. This was made with Berroco Ultra Wool. The pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry Shop. The pattern includes stitch charts and is written for a small adult size (21″ circumference).

If you are interested in making these hats in smaller or larger sizes you just need to stop increasing the crown of the hat when you reach the size you want, then work the sides of the hat in keeping with the size of the crown.

If you want a really detailed run-down on adjusting the size of top down hats you can purchase my “Perfect Fit Crocheted Hat” pattern in my Ravelry Shop. This pattern is basically my hat class in pattern form, it walks you thru the ins and outs of making a hat just the size you want.

I hope you are having a wonderful October, I’ll have a few more fun posts about crocheting spirals before the month is out.

Dizzy Dot Blanket Square Pattern

Hello my friends, today is my actual Birthday! I’m 60 years young today! So I have a 6 inch blanket square to celebrate my 60th. Doesn’t everyone love alliteration with their crochet patterns?

Like all small spiral projects this is a great pattern to use up those odds and ends of worsted weight yarn that you have remaining from other projects. Just pick 2 contrasting colors for your spirals, you’ll only need 7 yards for each spiral arm.

This square is part of the Melange Blanket Mystery Crochet-Along with Underground Crafter. This is a year long project that is coming to a conclusion soon. Be sure to check out this post at Underground Crafter that has all the links for the other squares, great information on joining your squares together and the information and links you need to get in on a chance to win some of the marvelous give-away prizes.

I also have an ad-free PDF version that includes a stitch chart available for purchase in my Ravelry shop.

Dizzy Dot Square

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:    Intermediate

Finished Size: 6” square

Materials:

Yarn 

Worsted weight (WeCrochet “Brava” 100% Premium Acrylic (3.5 oz/100g, 218 yd/199 m)

  • Color A: Marina #28437 (approximately 7 yards/ 3.2 grams) Spiral Arm 1
  • Color B: Seashell #28447 (approximately 7 yards/ 3.2 grams) Spiral Arm 2
  • Color C: Tranquil #28453 (approximately 20 yards/9.5 grams) Square Border

Hook J / 6mm

Notions

  • Yarn/tapestry needle
  • 8 Medium Locking Stitch markers (2 in one color, 6 in second color)

Gauge

First 5 rounds of pattern = 4” across circle

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

(Standing dc) Standing Double Crochet: make slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook) twice.

(sl st loosely) Loose slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.

(sl st) Slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

(Edc) Extended Double Crochet: YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru first loop on hook, (YO, pull thru 2 loops on hook) 2 times.

Pattern Notes:

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. If you prefer to start with a magic loop crochet 1 less chain stitch at start.

Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round.

Square starts with a 2 color hdc spiral circle as the center, then rounds are worked to square the circle.

When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches for the next round.

Instructions

Spiral Circle

Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with Color A, ch 2, (sc, 3 hdc) in second ch from hook, pull up long loop of color A and remove hook, insert hook in same ch as previous work, pull up a loop of Color B on shaft of hook, ch 1, (sc, 3 hdc) in same ch st, pull beginning tail of Color A to close center tightly. Place st markers in each st using a different color marker to indicate the last st of each color section. [1 sc, 3 hdc, in each color]

Rnd 2: Begin with Color A, *(2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to *. [8 hdc, in each color]

Rnd 3: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to color B, Repeat from * to *. [12 hdc, in each color]

Rnd 4: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to *. [16 hdc, in each color]

Rnd 5: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to * once,

**hdc next st, sc next st, sl st loosely in back loop and back bar of next st, sl st in back loop and back bar of next st**, fasten off Color B, switch to Color A, Repeat from ** to ** once, fasten off Color A. [21 hdc, 1 sc, 2 slip st, in each color]

Square Border

Remove every other st marker leaving 4 markers equally spaced around circle.

Rnd 6 (Round to Square 1): With RS facing attach Color C yarn with a standing dc in any marked st, 2 Edc in same st, *skip 2 sts, hdc next st, hdc & sc next st, sc next st, sc & hdc next st, hdc next st, skip 2 sts, (2 Edc, dc, ch 2, dc, 2 Edc) next marked st, move marker to ch-2 sp just made*; Repeat from * to * 2 times; skip 2 sts, hdc next st, hdc & sc next st, sc next st, sc & hdc next st, hdc next st, skip 2 sts, (2 Edc, dc) in same st as join, ch 2, sl st to first dc of Rnd. [16 Edc, 8 dc, 16 hdc, 12 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 7 (Round to Square 2): Turn (sc, ch 1 {counts as first hdc}, hdc, ch 2, hdc ) in first marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made, [*hdc in each of next 4 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 4 sts,*  (2 hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, sl st to top of first hdc. [48 hdc, 20 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {17 sts}]

Rnd 8: Turn, sc in first st, ch 1 {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st until reach start of Rnd, sl st to top of first hdc. [76 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps {19 sts each side}]

Finishing Weave in tails and block.

Spiraling into October!

It’s October and it’s definitely Autumn up here on my mountain. Most of our aspen trees have dropped their leaves, we have had a few traces of snow as well. I am loving the cooler temperatures. I’m really not cut out for super hot days and we had a lot of those this past couple of months. October has always been a favorite month for me because I love autumn, but it is also my Birthday this month.

Pile of crocheted spirals with a variety of colors, size of stitches, and number of arms.

It is a very special birthday this year as I am celebrating my 6th decade traveling around our sun. I wanted to do some extra fun things to celebrate with my marvelous readers and decided this month is going to be all about the Spirals! If you have been following my blog you already know that I have an abiding fondness for crocheting circles and spirals. Working in the round just makes me very happy.

I have been planning for this month all summer. Starting next week I’ll finally be able to share some fun new designs that have been in the top secret drawer all summer. But right now let’s take a quick look at some of my flat spiral designs of the past (just in case you missed them the first time).

My early design experiments with spirals involved working continuous rounds then working surface crochet to emphasize the spiral. The first 2 patterns listed below used this technique.

Round flat crocheted yellow circle toy with bright green spiral on yellow. Small bright green crocheted balls spaced along outside of yellow circle as hands and feet. Round green crocheted head with little round nose and yellow eyes. Orange embroidered mouth.

“Flat Fuzzy Friend” is available on the ‘Crochet Uncut’ website as a free pattern. This is a great lovey for a little one or even a fun whimsical gift for an older child. This pattern was published in 2010.

Burgundy color lop-sided heart with light pink spiral in center.

“Spiral in a Heart” is available here on my blog as a free pattern and makes a fun little embellishment. I like to make these to decorate hats and gloves for loved ones. They are also really cute on cuddle blankets. This pattern was published in 2011

I began to get more into the math of circles worked in the round and that that gave me the idea to play with spirals that had more than 1 arm. Once I started down this path I started having way too much fun. Since then I have continued to play with different height of stitches and number of arms to create designs that incorporate spirals.

4 armed spiral crocheted in 4 colors (gold, bright green, orange, dark green) framed with brown and original 4 colors to make a square.

“Whirlwind Afghan Square” this was my first afghan square for the Moogly CAL in 2015. You can find the free pattern for this square here on my blog. {Not the most exciting photo I’ve ever taken, but you get the idea.} I also have a video and additional blog posts on working this square.

Yellow and Hot Pink crocheted spiral bordered with bright green, white, yellow and hot pink mitered corners to create square.

“Dizzy Corner Afghan Square” this square was part of the 2017 Moogly CAL the pattern is available here on my blog for free. This post includes a detailed photo tutorial on crocheting the spiral circle.

Cream colored crochet scarf with 3 armed blue tones spirals on each end.

“Whirling Ends Scarf” this fun scarf pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry shop. The pattern includes detailed photo tutorials and stitch charts for both the spirals and the body of the scarf. It was part of the Stitch Makers Virtual Crochet Conference in September 2019.

“Spirals and Lace Afghan Square” this was my square for the 2019 Moogly CAL. The free version of the pattern is available here on my blog with text and photos, or you can purchase the PDF version in my Ravelry shop with 7 full color pages that include detailed stitch charts for each element.

These are just a short review of some of the flat spiral designs I’ve created over the years. Next week we will have a couple of new designs to add to this list, so be sure to stop by again.

Clematis Garden Afghan Square

Hello my friends, I have another fun afghan square for you. I have been traveling and having all sorts of adventures with my family this summer. Early in June I went to Ireland with the Craft Tours trip hosted by Tamara Kelly of Moogly Blog. Appropriately this square pattern is Block #18 for the Moogly 2023 Afghan CAL and was inspired by the beautiful gardens we saw on the Ireland trip. You can find out more about the Moogly 2023 Afghan CAL and how Tamara adapted her colors for my design here.

Clematis Garden Afghan Square

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:         Intermediate

Finished Size: 12” square

Materials:

Yarn 

Worsted wt (Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yd/338 m) 

Color A: Daffodil (sample used approximately 2 yards/ 1.1 gram) Rnds 1-2

Color B: Oxford (sample used approximately 70 yards/ 37.6 grams) Rnds 3-4: 3.8 g, Rnds 9-13: 33.5 g

Color C: Lilac (sample used approximately 6.5 yards/ 3.5 grams) Rnd 5

Color D: Jade (sample used approximately 22.5 yards/ 12.1 grams) Rnds 6-8

Hook J / 6mm

Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge First 4 rounds of pattern = 4” across square

Special Stitches and Abbreviations:

Place stitch marker (PM)

Standing Double Crochet (Standing dc): Make slip knot and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated place, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice.

4 dc Shell Stitch (Shl): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated place.

Single crochet spike stitch (scSpike): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop back to original round/row, 2 loops on hook, YO, pull thru both loops on hook to complete single crochet.

Extended Double Crochet stitch (ExtDC): YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 1 loop on hook, (YO, pull through 2 loops on hook) 2 times.

V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated place.

Granny Shell Stitch (GrShl): 3 dc in indicated place.

3 dc Cluster Stitch (CL): (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 3 times, YO pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Pattern Notes:

Square is worked center out. Attach yarn using a slip stitch unless otherwise stated. Keep tails to wrong side of fabric and weave in as work progresses. Ch 3 at beginning of rounds counts as a double crochet stitch unless otherwise stated. Be sure to pay close attention if a round is Right Side (RS) or Wrong Side (WS).

Instructions

Rnd 1 (WS):  With Color A begin with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (sc, ch 2) 4 times in second ch from hook, sl st to first sc, gently tighten center of square, PM in ch-2 sps to mark corners. (4 sc, 4 ch- 2 spcs)

Rnd 2 (WS):  Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc.

Fasten off Color A. (12 sc, 4 ch- 2 spcs)

Rnd 3 (RS):  With back side of Rnd 2 facing attach Color B with standing dc in middle sc of any side, dc in same st as join, [*sk next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, sk next st,* Shl in next st]3 times, repeat from * to * once, 2 dc in same st as join, ch 1, sl st to first dc of Rnd {completes first Shl of Rnd}. (4 Shl, 4 ch- 2 spcs)

Rnd 4 (RS): Ch 3, dc in same ch-sp as join, [ch 1, sk next 3 sts, Shl in next ch-sp] 7 times, move st markers up to ch-1 sp of Shls worked in marked ch-2 sps, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join, ch 1, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 {completes first Shl of Rnd}.

Fasten off Color B. (8 Shls, 8 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 5 (RS): With front side of Rnd 4 facing, attach Color C in ch-1 sp of side Shl with standing dc, dc in same ch-sp as join, [*ch 2, sk 2 sts, scSpike in corresponding sp between Shl and corner dc of Rnd 3, ch 2, sk 2 sts, Shl in marked ch-1 sp of next Shl, move st marker up to ch-1 sp of Shl just made, ch 2, sk 2 sts, scSpike in next corresponding sp between corner dc and next Shl of Rnd 3, ch 2, sk 2 sts,* Shl in ch-1 sp of next Shl] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join, ch 1, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3, {completes first Shl of Rnd}.

Fasten off Color C. (8 Shls, 16 ch-2 sps, 8 scSpike)

Rnd 6 (RS) Squaring up: With front side of Rnd 5 facing, attach Color D to ch-1 sp of side Shl, ch 1, sc in same sp as join, [*ch 1, sk 2 sts and ch-sp, (2 Tr, ExtDC) in next st, ch 2, sk ch-sp and 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-1 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 2, sk 2 sts and ch-sp, (2 Tr, ExtDC) in next st, ch 1, sk ch-sp and 2 sts,*  sc in ch-1 sp of next Shl] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc of Rnd.

(4 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 16 Tr, 8 ExtDC, 12 ch-2 sp, 16 dc {17 sts each side between corner ch-2 sps})

Rnd 7 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first ch-1 sp, [*sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 space just made, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st,* sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc of Rnd.

(76 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {19 sc each side between corner ch-2 sps})

End of Rnd 7 WS of Square
End of Rnd 7 from RS of Square

Rnd 8 (RS) V-sts: Ch 4, turn, dc in next st {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 3 times, [*(dc, ch-2, dc) in marked ch-sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, V-st in next st,* (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 6 times] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, sk 2 sts, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 to join.

Fasten off Color D. (28 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)

Rnd 9 (RS) Granny Shls: With front side of Rnd 8 facing, attach Color B with standing dc in ch-1 sp of any V-st along a side, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join {counts as first GrShl}, *sk 2 sts, GrShl in ch-1 sp of next V-st,* Repeat from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, sk 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, sl st to first dc of first GrShl to join.

(28 GrnShl, 16 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {25 sts each side between corner ch-2 sps})

Rnd 10 (WS) Bobbles: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, (CL in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) 4 times, CL in next st, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, CL in next st,* (sc in each of next 2 sts, CL in next st) 8 times] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, (sc in each of next 2 sts, CL in next st) 3 times, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd.

(36 CL, 72 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {27 sts each side between ch-2 sp corners})

End of Rnd 10 WS of Square
End of Rnd 10 RS of Square

Rnd 11 (RS): Turn, sc, ch 2 {counts as first dc}, [dc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, dc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, sl st to join to 2nd ch of first ch-2.

(124 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {31 dc each side between ch-2 sp corners})

Rnd 12 (WS): Repeat Rnd 11. (140 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {35 dc each side between ch-2 sp corners})

End of Rnd 12 RS of Square

Rnd 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move stitch marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, sl st to first sc to join.

Fasten off Color B. (148 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {37 sc each side between ch-2 sp corners})

Finishing Weave in tails. Gently block.

If you would like an Ad-Free PDF version of this pattern that includes stitch charts you can purchase it in my Ravelry Shop here.

A Beary Little Christmas Pattern

2 versions of "Beary Christmas Giftcard Holder". 1 bear is brown with brown eyes, black nose and red bow with a green pouch, other bear is gray with black button eyes, blue nose, pink bow and light blue pouch. Both are laying on a wooden background with Mamas2hands.com and logo at bottom of image.

I hope you are all enjoying the festive season. It seems like December gets here faster every year. But to start off my December I have a fun little pattern to share with you, this little bear can be an ornament on your tree or stocking stuffer. They have a pouch to hold a standard gift card on their back.

8th Annual Holiday Stashdown promo image.

This pattern is part of the 2022 Holiday Stashdown CAL you can find all the details on following along or catching up by clicking on the Stashdown link above. The Holiday Stashdown CAL is the fifth and final crochet along of 2022 hosted in the CAL Central Facebook and Ravelry groups. This call includes 22 free crochet patterns for winter holiday gifts, decorations, gift wrap, and more! Join us to make wonderful projects, chat with other crocheters, and enter for your chance to win a prize!

I chose this little bear gift card holder because you can make them with bits of yarn left over in your stash from other projects. The entire project takes less than 65 yards to crochet.

A Very Beary Christmas (Gift Card holder)

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill Level: Intermediate

Description: Slide a gift card into the pouch of this sweet little teddy bear as a fun way to celebrate the holidays with your family or friends. Make them for stocking stuffers or add a hanging loop to add to your holiday tree.

Finished Size: 6.25” (15.6 cm) –  5.5” (13.75 cm) inches tall

Materials:

Yarn Worsted Weight Acrylic yarn: Pouch takes about 15 yards, Bear takes less than 50 yards, nose 1 yard and bowtie 2 yards.

Sample 1: Red Heart “With Love”, #4 medium , 100% Acrylic, 7 oz/198 g, 370yards/338 m.

Sample 2: Berroco “Ultra Wool”, #4 Medium, 100% superwash wool, 3.5 oz/100 g, 219 yds/200 m.

Notions: Safety Eyes (9-10 mm) or buttons for Bears eyes (if making for a child under 5 years embroider eyes with black yarn), black pearl cotton for embroidering mouth, appropriate yarn and embroidery needles for finishing, a handful of polyfill for stuffing.

Hooks H-8/5mm

Gauge: 4 rounds for Head Back = 2”/5 cm diameter in “With Love”;  1 7/8”/4.7 cm diameter in “Ultra Wool”.

Pattern notes: All rounds for bear are worked in spirals unless otherwise noted. Use an adjustable slip knot to make tightening center of rounds easier. Weave in beginning tails as you finish each piece or when instructed in pattern. Leave long tails at ends of pieces to use to sew bear together. Pouch is made in joined rounds without turning.  You may find it helpful to use a stitch marker in the last stitch of the round to help you keep track of rounds.

The RS of fabric for all the bear pieces is the back side of your fabric, the WS is the front of stitches.

Instructions:

Head (Back) Bear Color

Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st) 6 times. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6 times.(18 sc)

Rnd 4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times, fasten off with 6 inch tail. (24 sc)

Head (Front) Bear Color with Nose Color

Rnd 1: With main color, ch 2, (3 sc, {switch to nose color} 3dcCL {switch back to main color}, 3 sc) in 2nd ch from hook. (6 sc, 1 CL)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in CL, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts. (13 sc)

Rnd 3: (*sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*) 3 times, sc in each of next 3 sts, Rep from * to * 2 times. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: (sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: Sc in each st around, fasten off with a 10 inch long tail.

Ears (make 2) Bear Color

Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in next 3 sts, sl st next 2 sts, fasten off with 8 inch long tail.

Arms (make 2) Bear Color

Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, weave in beginning tail.

Rnd 3: (1 sc in next st, sc2tog next st) 3 times.

Rnd 4 – 7: sc in each st around, fasten off with an 8 inch long tail.

After Rnd 4 lightly stuff hand end with poly fill.

Legs (make 2) Bear Color

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, weave in beginning tail.

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 4: (1 sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts) 3 times.

Rnd 5 – 8: Sc in each st around, fasten off with an 8 inch long tail.

After Rnd 5 lightly stuff foot end with poly fill.

Body (make 1) Bear Color

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in back bar of 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in sam place as first 3 sc. (7 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 2 sts, 4 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. (15 sc)

Rnd 3: *(Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 3 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (21 sc)

Rnd 4: *(Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 4 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (27 sc)

Rnd 5: *(Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 2 times*, sc in each of next 5 sts, 3 st in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, Repeat from * to * once. (33 sc)

Rnd 6: *Sc in each of next 16 sts*, 3 st in next st, Repeat from * to * once, sl st in next 2 sts, fasten off with a 10 inch long tail. (35 sc)

Card Pouch (make 1) Pouch color

Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 11, sc in back bar of 2nd ch from hook, sc in back bar of each rem ch to end, turn to work along the opposite side of chain, sc in each 10 sts, sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (20 sc)

Rnds 3 – 16: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off.

Bowtie (make 1) Bow Color

Ch 15, sl st tightly in 10th ch from hook, ch 9, sl st tightly in 10th ch from hook, ch 5, fasten off. Pull on beginning and ending tails to tighten knots. Trim short.

Crocheted bow without sewing wrap.

Cut an additional 10 inch length of same color, wrap around center of bow 2 or 3 times and tie in back, use loose ends to sew in place on bear following finishing directions.

Bowtie with sewing wrap in place.

Finishing

Brown bear without bowtie.

Embroider mouth on RS of Front Head. Sew buttons or place safety eyes on Front of Head.

Sew front and back of head together using a whip stitch joining last rounds. Leave a small opening and stuff with fiberfill, after stuffing sew opening closed.

Sew body of bear to front layer of card pouch using photo for reference as to placement. It is helpful to have a card in pouch while sewing. Sew to front layer of pouch using a whip stitch, leaving a small opening and stuff with fiberfill, after stuffing sew opening closed.

Sew ears, with tops pointed outward and WS facing forward, to either side of top half of bear’s head.

Sew Head to top of body and front layer of pouch

Using long ending tail sew Arms and Legs to body spaced as in photo.

Place bow in front under head on body, sew in place.

Weave in any remaining tails. Add your favorite method for ornament hanging to top of Bear’s head.

Floating Star Afghan Block Pattern

Happy Birthday to me! Again! That means it is time for an Afghan Block pattern in celebration of another trip around the sun! My block is #21 in the 2022 Moogly Afghan CAL too. You can find out more about the CAL and the links to the other blocks over on Mooglyblog.com. Check out what Tamara did with my block on her post about Block #21.

I had a lot of fun creating this block, especially since I was doing my favorite style of design where I go from 1 shape to another. In this block that is Round to Square. I’ve labeled the different parts of the pattern to help you stay on track when working your square.

Floating Star Afghan Block

designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size:  12” square

Materials:

Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

Color A: #1304 Santorini – Rnds 1-3, 13-14 (used 18.1 g / 34 yds)

Color B: #1502 Iced Aqua – Rnds 4-5, 8-12 (used 29.4 g / 55 yds)

Color C: #1101 Eggshell – Rnds 6 -7 (used 9.9 g / 18 yds)

Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge

Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge First 3.5 rounds of pattern = 4” across diameter

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.

(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.

(PM) Place Marker

(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Ch 3 picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop and top side loop of previous stitch, slip stitch tightly.

(Fan) Pointed Fan Stitch: (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Standing dc) Standing double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] 2 times.

(Standing hdc) Standing half double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

(Standing BPdc) Standing Back Post double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double stitch.

(BPTr) Back Post Treble: YO twice, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard treble stitch.

(BPdc) Back Post double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double crochet stitch.

(BPhdc) Back Post half double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard half double crochet stitch.

Pattern Notes:

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.

Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.

All rounds are joined with a tight slip stitch to the indicated stitch or chain.

Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. After Rnd 8, stitch counts along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count and do not include corner chain spaces.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in 4th chain from hook, join {see pattern notes} to top of beg ch. [12 dc]

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 4 {counts as first dc and ch-1 sp}, [dc in next st, ch 1] 11 times, join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4.  [12 dc, 12 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 3 (RS): (sl st, ch 3 {counts as first dc}, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 11 times, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color A. [36 dc]

Rnd 4 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing dc in 2nd dc of a 3 dc group, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st},  [ch 1, skip 2 sts, V-st in next st] 11 times, ch 1, join to first dc of rnd. [12 V-st, 12 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in first dc of next V-st, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st] 11 times, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color B [60 dc]

Rnd 6 (RS): Attach Color C with Standing dc in center dc that was worked in a ch-1 sp of Rnd 4 V-st, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in sp before next dc, skip 2 sts,* V-st in next dc] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first dc of rnd. [24 V-sts]

Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp of first V-st, [*skip 2 sts, Fan in ch-1 sp of next V-st, skip 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next V-st] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first sc of rnd. Fasten off Color C. [12 Fans, 12 sc]

Round to Square

Rnd 8 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing BPdc around post of first dc of a Fan, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,

[ch 1, *skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc next st, BPTr next st, skip next sc, BPTr next st, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,* ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, BPdc each of next 2 sts, BPhdc next st] 3 times, ch 1, Rep * to * once, ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, join to first BPdc of rnd.  PM in ch-3 sps to mark 4 corners. [16 BPTr, 32 BPdc, 24 BPhdc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-3 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, join to first sc of rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 48 sc, 8 loose sl st, 8 hdc, 32 dc] {24 sts per side}

Rnd 10 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in next st of Rnd 9, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made,

dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in each of next 3 sts of Rnd 9] 4 times, join to first sc of Rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 40 sc, 16 hdc, 56 dc]  {28 sts per side}

Square Rounds to 12”

Rnd 11 (WS): Turn, (sc, ch 1) in first st {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in marked ch sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join to first hdc.  [120 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {30 sts per side}

Rnd 12 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in marked ch sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. [128 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {32 sts per side}

Rnd 13 (WS): With WS facing attach Color A with Standing hdc to any st on side, Rep Rnd 11. [136 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {34 sts per side}

Rnd 14 (RS): Rep Rnd 12. Fasten off.  [144 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {36 sts per side}

Finishing

Weave in tails and block. When pinning out to block it is helpful to pin points of star to lay flat and then gently steam to make them lay down on the surface of the block.

For those of you that may be wondering why the blog has been so quiet, I have been a busy little bee working on lots of freelance designs for various publications. I’ll share more about those designs once they are published. I’ve also been working away on developing more classes to teach at local shops, fiber festivals and hopefully online soon.

Thanks for stopping by.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

I’m participating in the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. Come join the fun! 28 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, and sewing projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week will have a theme.

Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens
Week 2 (July 8-14): Women
Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone
Week 4 (July 22-28): Home
Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets

We’ve also partnered with some of our favorite companies to get some great prizes for you. Find out more information about participating designers, the schedule, and how to enter to win the prizes on Underground Crafter. The deadline for entering the giveaway is Thursday, August 4, 2022 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.

How To Join the 2022 Christmas in July Make Along

  • You can join in by crocheting, knitting, sewing, or making the projects as you have time.
  • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CIJMakeAlong2022 on all social media.
  • If you’d like to chat with other crafters, join the Underground Crafters Facebook group
  • By the end of the Make Along, you’ll have up to 31 awesome projects. Get ready for the handmade holiday season while having fun with us!

Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along post as it is released.

Today I am sharing with you my pattern for making the “Cuddlebug Pet Bed”. As many of you know my old dog Kenna left us for her journey over the Rainbow Bridge back in early February. We found a very young dog (10 months old) at the Humane Society of Boulder in late February.

This is Daisy Mae, she has completely stolen our hearts. She is a super sweet doggie, but she can be pretty destructive with her chewing overnight. So she stays in her kennel while we are all sleeping. I decided to make a new bed pad for her kennel to spoil her. Yes it may get chewed on, though she has been pretty good with her kennel bedding so far.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

This project is also about using up scrap yarn and re-use of other materials I had around the house. You can use any scraps of worsted weight yarn you have on hand to make your own pet bed. I recommend using acrylic yarns as they can be machine washed with ease. You’ll be using 4 strands of yarn together, so you won’t have to worry about weaving in tails except at the beginning and end of the project.

I cut up a piece of foam padding that was part of an old folding futon we had in my youngest kiddo’s room. The cover of the futon had been destroyed in one section, but the foam was still in decent shape. I measured the kennel and then used an old bread knife to saw the foam to the size I needed.

You can adjust the size of the pet bed pattern for your pet. You just need to know the size of the rectangle you want the final bed to be.

Draw out your rectangle on the foam you are using, if not using foam then draw your rectangle size on an appropriate size sheet of paper. Find the center of the rectangle along the length. See photo above.

Then draw 45 degree lines from the corners intersecting the center line.

The length between the intersections is the length you need your foundation to be (see photo above). Crochet the stacked rows foundation to that length. You need an even number of stitches for the foundation, so add 1 row to foundation if needed to get an even number.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

Designed by Andee Graves

SKILL LEVEL: Easy

FINISHED SIZE:  31 x 19 x 4 inches (77.5 x 47.5 x 10 cm)

YARN:

Caron “One Pound” (100% Acrylic; 812 yds / 16 oz, 742 m / 453.6 g)

Project used approximately 2850 yards of yarn.

CROCHET HOOK: US N/P (10 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS:

Yarn needle, Stitch markers, 4 – 1 inch buttons

GAUGE:  In Up & Down Stitch pattern:  7.5 stitches 7 rows = 4″ (10 cm)

SPECIAL STITCHES

Up & Down Stitch: Alternates single crochet stitches worked into double crochet stitches, and double crochet stitches worked into single crochet stitches.

PATTERN NOTES

This project is crocheted holding 4 strands of yarn together the whole time. It is is a great way to use up scraps, when one strand gets close to running out, overlap the new strand about 8 – 10 inches and continue crocheting. Both the ending strand and new strand will be caught up in the body of the stitches. No weaving in ends except at the end and beginning of your project.

The bed is worked center out in the round from a long stacked rows foundation as a large rectangle in up & down stitch (also known as Grit or Griddle stitch). The first round of the sides is work as front post single crochet to make a sharp turn along the top edge. Then rounds are worked in single crochet to get to the height of the foam being used to stuff the bed.

A second rectangle is worked for the bottom of the bed, then sewn to the last round of the sides, leaving one end open. Buttons are sewn along the bottom piece at the opening and chain loops are attached to the side to close the open end.

Tip: Mark the beginning stitch of the round to help you find it at the end of round. Every round should start with single crochet.

INSTRUCTIONS

Bed Top

Stacked Rows Foundation

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in previous row sc.

Row 3 – 20: Rep Row 2.

Turn to work into the sides of the Stacked Rows Foundation stitches.

Rnd 1:  Ch 1,  sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from * to * until reaching end of foundation, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work in end of foundation, sc & dc in end, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work along opposite side of stacked rows foundation, Repeat from * to * beginning in first st until reaching end of foundation, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work in end of row, sc & dc in end of row, ch 1, turn 90 degrees, join with slip st to first st of Rnd PM in corner ch-1 sps.  (22 dc, 22 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made,  sc in dc, dc in sc until reach next marked ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (26 dc, 26 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, [*sc in dc, dc in sc* until reach marked ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, sc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, join with sl st to first st of round. (30 dc, 30 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 4: : Ch 1, turn, [*sc in dc, dc in sc* until reach marked ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, dc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, join with sl st to first st of round. (34 dc, 34 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnds 5 – 16: Alternate repeating Rnd 3 and Rnd 4.  (Rnd 16: 82 dc, 82 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 17: Ch 1, turn, [FPsc in each st until reach marked ch-1 sp, skip marked sp, remove st marker] 4 times, FPsc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (164 FPsc)

Rnd 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (164 sc)

Rnds 19 – 23: Rep Rnd 18. Fasten off at end of Rnd 23.

Bed Bottom

Repeat Foundation and Rnds 1 – 15 from Bed Top. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends.

Sew Bed Bottom Round 15 stitches to top of Bed Top Rnd 24 stitches using a whip stitch. Leave one short end of bed open. Chain 15 with 1 strand of yarn and H (5mm) hook to make button loops. Attach button loops to last round of Bed Top along opening.  Sew buttons on Bed bottom aligning with button loops.

Puff Star Afghan Hexagon

Wow! The last couple of months have been zipping by, and I am so happy to finally be able to share one of the projects I’ve been keeping under my hat. I’m participating in the 2021 Stitch & Hustle Blog Hop: Puff the Magic Stitch. A big thank you to WeCrochet.com for providing the yarn for this blog hop and to Michele of Stitch & Hustle for organizing the hop.

My design is the Puff Star Afghan Hexagon. You can have so much fun mixing up the colors for the various elements of this fun hexagon, the final round is a Jay-Go edging that makes it easy to join your hexagons together to create an afghan of any size. I’ve included the amounts of yarn needed for the A, B, C & D colors as written, so if you want you can use these hexagons as a scrap busting project. If you do scrap hexagons I recommend using a single color for the Jay-Go Rounds to tie your afghan together.

Puff stitches are a great textural element to have in your crochet toolbox. They are especially nice because they create a texture on both sides of your fabric. If you haven’t ever made puff stitches they can be a bit tricky. My mom would have said, “You have to hold your mouth just right.” The most important thing to keep in mind is that you want all the loops you pull up to be the same length, that way your puff stitches won’t get wonky.

My favorite style of puff stitch has an extra step at the end that captures all the puff stitch loops and makes a clean “top” for the stitch. For this pattern the majority of the puffs are made using 4 yarn-overs and the first puff stitch in Round 2 and 4 are started with a chain-2 then 3 yarn-overs.

Image shows crochet hook with 2 loops on it (one loop is coming thru all the "puff" loops) and arrows showing the direction to pull a yarn-over thru the 2 loops.
The last step of my preferred puff stitch.

Be sure to scroll down after the pattern for links to more fun free patterns featuring the puff stitch and to find out about the great yarn giveaways that are part of this blog hop.

This pattern is also available for purchase as an Ad PDF download in my Ravelry shop. The PDF includes stitch charts for the entire hexagon as well as a stitch diagram of the Join-as-you- Go technique.

Puff Star Afghan Hexagon Pattern

Pattern Details

Skill Level: Intermediate

Materials:

Yarn – We Crochet “Brava”, Worsted weight, category #4, 100% premium Acrylic (100 g; 218 yds)

The colors I used for the hexagons are shown above and starting in the left top corner are: Mint (C28438), Seashell (C28447), Marina (C2843), Tidal Speckle (C29246), Tranquil (C28454). Then I used Asphalt Heather (C28411) {not pictured} for joining my hexagons together.

I had one ball of each of the hexagon colors and have been playing with using each of them for the various A, B & C instructions. For one hexagon the approximate amount of yarn needed for each Color is:

  • Color A: Rnds 1, 2 & 4 = 8.5 g (19 yds);
  • Color B: Rnds 3, 5, 7 & 8 = 8 g (18 yds);
  • Color C: Rnds 6 & 9 – 7 g (16 yds);
  • Color D: Rnd 10 = 5 g (11 yds).

Hook – I-9 (5.5 mm)

Notions – yarn/tapestry needle, stitch markers

Finished Size: 10 inches from point to point and 8.5 inches across middle between sides.

Gauge:  First 3 Rounds in pattern = 2.75” across middle between sides

Special Stitches/Abbreviations:

BegPuff (Beginning Puff Stitch) – Ch 2, [Yo, insert hook into indicated place, yo, pull up a loop to needed height] 3 times, yo pull thru 6 loops on hook, yo pull thru final 2 loops on hook {like making a single crochet}.

Puff (Puff Stitch) – [Yo, insert hook into indicated place, yo, pull up a loop to needed height] 4 times, yo pull thru 8 loops on hook, yo pull thru final 2 loops on hook {like making a single crochet}.

CL (2 Double Crochet Cluster) – [Yo, insert hook into indicated place, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook] 2 times, yo, pull thru remaining 3 loops on hook.

sc2tog (Single Crochet 2 Together) – Insert hook in first indicated st/sp, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo pull up a loop, yo, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

hdcVst (Half Double Crochet V-stitch) – (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in indicated stitch or space.

V-st (Double Crochet V-stitch) – (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated stitch or space.

Pattern Notes:

Starting with an adjustable slip knot this afghan block is worked in concentric hexagonal rounds.

All rounds are worked with right side (RS) facing except round 6. Round 6 is worked with wrong side (WS) facing so the cluster bobble stitches will push to RS of fabric.

When skipping stitches chains count as 1 stitch each, unless otherwise stated.


Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): With Color A, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, slip st to first sc of Rnd. (6 sc)

Rnd 2 (RS): BegPuff st in same sc as join, ch 3, [Puff st in next sc, ch 3] 5 times, slip st to top of BegPuff st. Fasten off Color A. (6 Puff, 6 ch-3 sp)

Rnd 3 (RS): Change to Color B, With RS facing join in right hand side of ch-3 sp with a slip st, ch 1, (3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc) in same ch-3 sp, [ch 1, skip next st, (3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc) in next ch-3 sp] 5 times, ch 1, skip next st, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off Color B. (36 sc, 6 ch-1 sp, 6 ch-2 sp)

Rounds 1-3 finished

Rnd 4 (RS): Change to Color A, with RS facing, join in any ch-1 sp with a slip st, BegPuff st in same ch-1 sp, [*ch 1, skip 1 st, dc next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, (Puff, ch 3, Puff) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip 1 st, dc next st, ch 1, skip 1 st*, Puff in next ch-1 sp] 5 times, Rep from * to * once, slip st to first Puff st of Rnd. Fasten off Color A.  (18 Puff, 12 dc, 24 ch-1 sp, 6 ch-3 sp)

Rnd 5 (RS): Change to Color B, with RS facing join in ch-1 sp to left of center Puff on one side, ch 1, 2 sc in same ch-1 sp, skip next dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp, skip next Puff, [*(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in next ch-3 sp, skip next Puff*, (2 sc in next ch-1 sp, skip next st) 4 times,] 5 times, Rep from * to * once, (2 sc in next ch-1 sp, skip next st) 2 times, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off Color B. (72 sc, 6 ch-2 sp)

Puff Star Crocheted thru Round 5.

Rnd 6 (WS): Change to Color C, with WS facing join yarn in first sc before ch-2 sp at point, ch 1, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, skip next st, sc next 2 sts, CL next st, sc next st, CL next 2 sts, sc next st, CL next st, sc next 2 sts, skip next st] 6 times, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off Color C. (48 sc, 24 CL, 6 ch-2 sp)

Note: At this point your hexagon is looking a little ruffly, don’t worry we are fixing that in the rest of the rounds.

Rnd 7 (RS): Change to Color B, with RS facing join in second sc before ch-2 sp at point, ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in next st, (sc in next st, sc2tog using next 2 sts) 3 times*, sc in next 2 sts] 5 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to first sc of Rnd. (48 sc, 18 sc2tog, 6 ch-2 sp)

Starting Round 8

Rnd 8 (RS): Ch 4, dc in same st as join {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, skip 2 sts, [*(hdcVst, ch 2, hdcVst) in next ch-2 sp*, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next st) 3 times] 5 times, Repeat from * to * once, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, slip st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. Fasten off Color B. (12 hdcVst, 18 V-st, 6 ch-2 sp)

Rnd 9 (RS): Change to Color C, with RS facing join in second ch-1 sp before ch-2 sp at point, ch 4, dc in same ch-1 {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, skip 2 sts, [*V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, skip 1 st*, (V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts) 4 times] 5 times, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts) 3 times, slip st to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. Fasten off Color C. (30 V-st, 12 dc, 6 ch-2 sp)

Rnd 10 (RS) Jay-Go Rnd: Change to Color D, with RS facing join in ch-1 sp of second V-st before ch-2 sp at point, ch 1, sc in same sp as join, [*ch 3, skip 2 sts, sc in next ch sp*, Repeat from * to * until work in ch-2 sp at point, ch 3, sc in same ch-2 sp] 6 times, Repeat from * to * until reach last V-st before beg of Rnd, ch 3, skip 2 sts, slip st to first sc of Rnd. (42 ch3 sp, 42 sc)

2 Hexagons joined along 1 side.

For first Hexagon of project work Rnd 10 as written, when joining to another hexagon change the ch-3 sps to (ch 1, slip st, ch 1) working the slip st in the corresponding ch-3 sp on the side or sides of hexagon(s) you are joining to.

Finishing

Weave in all tails and block gently.

If desired, you can work a border of sc around the outside edges of your finished afghan, place 2 sc in each open ch-3 sp and 1 sc in each side of point joins.

In addition to all the fun free patterns using the puff stitch, you can enter to win giveaways of all the yarn needed to make groupings of the patterns available in the hop. The Giveaways start today and go thru October 8, 2021. You can learn more about the blog hop and giveaway by visiting the Stitch & Hustle blog post.

Pufftastic Bandana Cowl, Talara Hooded Duster, and Puff Star Afghan Hexagon

Follow any of the links below to check out the other patterns in this Blog Hop.