Tag: Crochet How-To

Skinny Post Stitch Ribbing

Categories Crochet, Crochet Design, Crochet How-Tos, How Tos, Online, PatternLeave a Comment on Skinny Post Stitch Ribbing

It has been super hot even here in Colorado, so I am looking for small projects to work on and hats are one of my favorites. I’m teaching a class next week “Spiraling Stripes Hat” that is a great way to add stripes to your hats without any seams. You can still register for this class until 8 a.m. Central time this Sunday, July 18, 2021.

Click here to Register for this Class

I like the look of ribbed brims in knit hats, but since I crochet much faster than I knit, I wanted a version for when I was wielding my hook. After a lot of experimenting over the past 15 years I have settled on using “skinny” half double crochet post stitches as my all time favorite method.  You will see this ribbing in a lot of my hat patterns (like the Spiraling Stripes Hat).

For those of you that have never worked post stitches, their name comes from the fact that they are worked around the “post” of a stitch instead of under the top 2 strands of a stitch. This gives them much more of a textured look and changes how the fabric behaves.

With a taller stitch like the double crochet it is quite easy to see the “post” of the stitch and to work around the center of this post when working post stitches. For a stitch like the Half Double or Single crochet that becomes a bit more fiddly to find.

The first time I tried using post stitches for my ribbing I decided to do what I call “skinny” post stitches. Instead of working down into the stitch, I use the very top of the post just under the “v” that makes the top of the stitch (the bit of brown yarn the arrow is pointing to in the photograph above). This creates a slimmer looking stitch because the base of the post stitch isn’t stretched around the thickest part of the other stitch.

By the way this tutorial is showing the post stitches and finished work for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed and crochet with your hook in the left-hand, then reverse what I’m doing here.

For the ribbing affect I alternate my post stitches, so I needed an even number of stitches. I generally start with a FPhdc, and end the round with a BPhdc. The first round of ribbing is the trickiest.

Once you have finished that round it just becomes a matter of working FP stitches into FP stitches and BP into BP. In the photo above you can see both the appearance of the ribbing from the front and back.

For a Front Post half double crochet (FPhdc): Insert the hook from front to back to the right of the post you want to work around, then bring the hook from the back to the front under the top of the stitch to the left of the post (indicated by arrow in photo above).  Yarn over and pull up a loop thru all the stitches, yarn over and complete your hdc. The post of this new stitch will be sitting on the front of your fabric.

For a Back Post half double crochet (BPhdc): Insert the hook from back to front to the right of the post you want to work around, then bring the hook from the front to the back under the top of the stitch for the left of the post (indicated by arrow in photo above).

Yarn over and pull up a loop thru all the stitches, yarn over and complete your hdc. The post of this new stitch will be sitting on the back of your fabric.

Finished Back Post Half Double Crochet

This is how I make my “skinny” front post and back post half double crochet stitches. You can modify this technique with any crochet stitch, but the half double crochet is my favorite. Practice working your skinny post stitches with this quick and easy headband pattern.

Summer Stretch Headband

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level: Intermediate

Special Stitches

Materials:

Yarn – Berroco “Ultra Wool” worsted weight, 100% superwash wool, 219 yds/200 m, 3.5 oz/100 g

Color A – #3346, Color B – #3312, Color C – #3315

Hook – H (5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions – yarn/tapestry needle

Gauge: 8 FSC = 2”

Special Stitches/Abbreviations:

fsc (Foundation Single Crochet)

FPhdc (Skinny Front Post Half Double Crochet) – The post stitch is worked under the top 2 strands of the stitch. YO, insert hook into top of previous st from front  to back, then bring hook from back to front thru top of next st (this is working around post of st), YO, pull up a loop thru both st tops, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook. 

BPhdc (Back Post Half Double Crochet) – The post stitch is worked under the top 2 strands of the stitch. YO, insert hook into top of previous st from back to front, then bring hook from front to back thru top of next st (this is working around post of st), YO, pull up a loop thru both st tops, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.

Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.

Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.

PM (Place Marker)

Pattern Notes:

Headband is worked in a 1×1 rib using skinny front and back post half double crochet stitches, then flower is worked in 2 parts and sewn to headband.

Instructions

Headband

Rnd 1: With Color A, crochet 96 fsc, without twisting join with a sl st in first fsc.(96 fsc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, FPhdc around post of first st, [BPhdc around post of next st, FPhdc around post of next st] 47 times, BPhdc around post of last st and base of beginning ch-2, sl st to top of first FPhdc. (48 FPhdc, 48 BPhdc)

Rnds 3 & 4: Repeat Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 96 sts around, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. (96 sc)

Use beginning tail to close gap at beginning of Rnd 1, weave in all loose ends.

Flower 1

Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.

Flower 2

Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 2, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 2, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, dc, Exdc, picot, Exdc, dc, sc) in ch-2 sp, skip next st, sl st in ch-1 sp, skip to next ch-2 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning sc of Rnd. Fasten off

Finishing

Weave in tails on flowers, then use remaining tails to sew Flower 1 to Flower 2, then both flowers on headband. Best spot to sew them is over joining seam. When weaving in ends follow the “columns” of your post stitches so you don’t lose the stretchiness of your ribbing.

The Secrets to Crocheting the X-stitch

Categories Crochet, How Tos3 Comments on The Secrets to Crocheting the X-stitch

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There was a little delay getting this post finished because we were preparing for adding a new family member. The little sweetie in the photo above. We have been wanting to get a kitten for about 7 months and this week everything came together for Ms. Areya (R-ree-Yah) to join us. I confess, part of the delay is because I am having way too much fun getting kitten cuddles. This is our first baby kitten in 14 years, so we are all enjoying her tiny time, she is just 8 weeks old. You will probably see her photo-bombing the blog a bit over the next couple of months.

Now back to learning about crocheting the X-stitch…

The X-stitch is one of my second favorite stitches to use in my crochet designs. The fabric you can create with it is stretchy and has a pleasing texture. I often think that crocheting it is a little like dancing the two-step; 2 steps foward, 1 step back.

One thing I have noticed about this stitch (and a lot of crochet stitches) is that the written directions for working the stitch can sound very intimidating, when actually working the stitch is fairly easy.

Because there are not standardized terms for the name of all crochet stitches you can encounter a lot of different X-stitches. There are versions of the X-stitch out there that use taller stitches and more skipped stitches, so remember to check the stitch definitions in the pattern you are working to be sure that you know which version is being used.

My favorite version of this stitch is very simple. It is 2 double crochet stitches, worked into 2 stitches, with the second stitch worked over and around the first one. After reading that you are likely thinking I’m nuts to say it is simple.

In my Cliffhouse Cowl pattern I defined the X-stitch as: Skip 1 un-worked st forward, dc in next st, working around 1st dc, dc in skipped st.

Let’s break it down with an illustration.

Step 1: Skip 1 un-worked st forward (indicated by pink arrow),

Step 2: dc in next st (indicated by green arrow),

Step 3: working around first dc, dc in skipped st (indicated by pink arrow).

In this step you are crocheting around the post of the first stitch at the same time as you are working your double crochet in the top of the previously skipped stitch. The first stitch is surrounded by the second stitch.

Stacked or Staggered X-stitches

Stacked X-sts
Staggered X-sts

When you are working rows or rounds of the X-st you can stack them or stagger them. You’ll get 2 very different looks to your fabric depending on which you choose.

Cliffhouse Cowl –
Andee Graves M2H Designs

For my Cliffhouse Cowl the X-sts are stacked and worked in the round.

Spiraling Crosses Hat –
Andee Graves M2H Designs
Spiraling Crosses Gauntlets –
Andee Graves M2H Designs

In my Spiraling Crosses Hat and Spiraling Crosses Gauntlets the X-sts are staggered and worked in the round.

The stitch chart above shows both stacked and staggered X-sts worked in the round. The purple stitches are the 2nd dc of each X-st. When working staggered X-sts your join for each round will move to the right if you are right-handed, and to the left if you are left-handed (assuming you hold the hook in your left hand).

At the start of each X-st round the beginning chain 3 acts as your first dc of your first X-st. The lovely part of this is that your join in the finished project will not be as obvious as it can look with other stitch patterns.

Second X-st of Round

It can be a little tricky to see where your next X-st should be worked after working that starting X-st in your first round. The stitch that you joined to for your foundation looks like it should be your first skipped stitch (indicated with yellow arrow – this is the stitch that the slip stitch join was worked into for the previous round or foundation), but it is the next stitch over (indicated with pink arrow) and the first dc will be worked in the next stitch (indicated with the green arrow).

When you get to the end of your round you will finish your last X-st and then slip stitch tightly in the third chain of your beginning chain 3. I find it really helps to place a locking stitch marker in that third chain at the beginning of the round, then when I get to the end of the round it’s very easy to see where to join to.

My favorite locking stitch markers are made by the Clover Company. They are flexible and durable and come in a couple of sizes, colors and styles. I have lots of the orange and green ones that I’ve added to my project bag over the years. If you can’t find them locally you can purchase them on Amazon, just click on the photo above and it will take you right to them.

The new stitch markers from Clover that I have been falling in love with are the “Quick Locking Stitch Markers”. They come in sets of 2 colors for each size, or you can get the variety pack that has a nifty carrying case with 3 different sizes. I really love these markers because they are super flexible and they are little sheep shapes. If you can’t find them locally just click on the photo above and it will take you right to them on Amazon.