Saint Patrick’s Day is this coming Sunday and I decided to make up a little clover for all my lovely readers.
This quick little shamrock can be crocheted up in just a few minutes with about 4 yards of worsted weight yarn. I used Berroco’s Ultra Wool and a 5mm hook for the shamrocks shown above. You can sew or glue your shamrock onto a pin back to create a fun brooch to wear or sew the finished shamrock unto a hat, gloves, or scarf.
I have a PDF version available through my Ravelry shop that also includes a stitch chart. The PDF version is available for free in my Ravelry shop with coupon code 2024QSSPD through 11:30 p.m. Mountain Time Saturday, March 16, 2024. Just place the pattern in your cart and when checking out put the coupon code in the code spot.
3.5 oz/100 g, 219 yds/200 m (1.8 g/4 yds for 1 Shamrock)
Hook H / 5 mm or size needed to obtain consistent fabric
Gauge is not critical to this project; fabric needs to be consistent and tight. Shamrock can be worked with different weight of yarn, just adjust the size hook so you get the desired result.
Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, pin back if turning into brooch/pin
Special Stitches and Abbreviations
Adjustable Slip Knot: Make like a regular slip knot but use the beginning tail to form the working loop. Pulling on the beginning tail snugs the working loop on the shaft of the hook. If desired can use the magic circle method instead, just count your circle as the first chain stitch. Click here for my YouTube video if you need helpwith the Adjustable Slip Knot.
2 Extended Double crochet Cluster (2ExDcCL): [Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 1 loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times, yo, pull through remaining 3 loops on hook.
Pattern Notes
This shamrock is worked from the center out in 2 rounds, at the end of the second round you chain a length then work back towards the body of the shamrock to create the stem.
Pattern Instructions
Rnd 1: Make an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 6 hdc in second ch from hook, join with a slip st to first hdc of round. (6 hdc)
Rnd 2: (Ch 4, 2ExDcCL, hdc, 2ExDcCL, ch 4, slip st) in first st, [slip st loosely in next st, (slip st, ch 4, 2ExDcCL, hdc, 2ExDcCL, ch 4, slip st) in next st] 2 times, slip st loosely in next st,
{Stem} ch 6, sc in back bump of second ch from hook, slip st loosely in back bump of each of next 4 chs, slip st to join to Rnd 1 between last and first hdc. Fasten off.
I used Vanna’s Choice with an I hook (5.5mm) for the brighter green Shamrock shown above, you can see that it came out a bit bigger than the shamrocks made with Berroco Ultra Wool.
Happy Saint Patrick’s Day to all my Irish and Irish Heritage readers.
In keeping with my crochet spirals theme I wanted to share some dimensional spirals with you. So far everything I’ve shared has been flat spirals but they are also wonderful for making hats with. I like making my hats from the crown down to the brim to take full advantage of the stretchiness of the fabric. My favorite method is to work continuous rounds, which is basically a spiral. Creating hat patterns that use different color spiral arms is an easy adjustment. 2 of my favorite spiral hats are below.
Whirlwind Hat
This hat pattern is sized for a small adult head (circumference 21″) here on my blog. This pattern uses a four-arm spiral to create a colorfully striped top-down hat. It is a great pattern for using up leftover bits of yarn from your stash. Each spiral arm uses approximately 28 yards, 1 spiral uses 46 yards as it is a spiral arm and the brim. Click here to check out the pattern.
Spiraling Stripes Hat
This 2 arm spiral hat that was inspired by the folks at Round Mountain Fibers. They hand-dye some incredible colors. I wanted to create a hat that would blend a semi-solid and variegated color together. The sample I made had some interesting pooling of the colors so I got an almost plaid look in the finished hat.
This is another sample I made from the pattern using 2 solid color worsted weight yarns. This was made with Berroco Ultra Wool. The pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry Shop. The pattern includes stitch charts and is written for a small adult size (21″ circumference).
If you are interested in making these hats in smaller or larger sizes you just need to stop increasing the crown of the hat when you reach the size you want, then work the sides of the hat in keeping with the size of the crown.
If you want a really detailed run-down on adjusting the size of top down hats you can purchase my “Perfect Fit Crocheted Hat” pattern in my Ravelry Shop. This pattern is basically my hat class in pattern form, it walks you thru the ins and outs of making a hat just the size you want.
I hope you are having a wonderful October, I’ll have a few more fun posts about crocheting spirals before the month is out.
Hello my friends, today is my actual Birthday! I’m 60 years young today! So I have a 6 inch blanket square to celebrate my 60th. Doesn’t everyone love alliteration with their crochet patterns?
Like all small spiral projects this is a great pattern to use up those odds and ends of worsted weight yarn that you have remaining from other projects. Just pick 2 contrasting colors for your spirals, you’ll only need 7 yards for each spiral arm.
This square is part of the Melange Blanket Mystery Crochet-Along with Underground Crafter. This is a year long project that is coming to a conclusion soon. Be sure to check out this post at Underground Crafter that has all the links for the other squares, great information on joining your squares together and the information and links you need to get in on a chance to win some of the marvelous give-away prizes.
Color A: Marina #28437 (approximately 7 yards/ 3.2 grams) Spiral Arm 1
Color B: Seashell #28447 (approximately 7 yards/ 3.2 grams) Spiral Arm 2
Color C: Tranquil #28453 (approximately 20 yards/9.5 grams) Square Border
Hook J / 6mm
Notions
Yarn/tapestry needle
8 Medium Locking Stitch markers (2 in one color, 6 in second color)
Gauge
First 5 rounds of pattern = 4” across circle
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
(Standing dc) Standing Double Crochet: make slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook) twice.
(sl st loosely) Loose slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.
(sl st) Slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(Edc)Extended Double Crochet: YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru first loop on hook, (YO, pull thru 2 loops on hook) 2 times.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. If you prefer to start with a magic loop crochet 1 less chain stitch at start.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round.
Square starts with a 2 color hdc spiral circle as the center, then rounds are worked to square the circle.
When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches for the next round.
Instructions
Spiral Circle
Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with Color A, ch 2, (sc, 3 hdc) in second ch from hook, pull up long loop of color A and remove hook, insert hook in same ch as previous work, pull up a loop of Color B on shaft of hook, ch 1, (sc, 3 hdc) in same ch st, pull beginning tail of Color A to close center tightly. Place st markers in each st using a different color marker to indicate the last st of each color section. [1 sc, 3 hdc, in each color]
Rnd 2: Begin with Color A, *(2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to *. [8 hdc, in each color]
Rnd 3: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to color B, Repeat from * to *. [12 hdc, in each color]
Rnd 4: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to *. [16 hdc, in each color]
Rnd 5: Begin with Color A, *(hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 4 times*, pull up loop of Color A, switch to Color B, Repeat from * to * once,
**hdc next st, sc next st, sl st loosely in back loop and back bar of next st, sl st in back loop and back bar of next st**, fasten off Color B, switch to Color A, Repeat from ** to ** once, fasten off Color A. [21 hdc, 1 sc, 2 slip st, in each color]
Square Border
Remove every other st marker leaving 4 markers equally spaced around circle.
Rnd 6 (Round to Square 1): With RS facing attach Color C yarn with a standing dc in any marked st, 2 Edc in same st, *skip 2 sts, hdc next st, hdc & sc next st, sc next st, sc & hdc next st, hdc next st, skip 2 sts, (2 Edc, dc, ch 2, dc, 2 Edc) next marked st, move marker to ch-2 sp just made*; Repeat from * to * 2 times; skip 2 sts, hdc next st, hdc & sc next st, sc next st, sc & hdc next st, hdc next st, skip 2 sts, (2 Edc, dc) in same st as join, ch 2, sl st to first dc of Rnd. [16 Edc, 8 dc, 16 hdc, 12 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]
Rnd 7 (Round to Square 2): Turn (sc, ch 1 {counts as first hdc}, hdc, ch 2, hdc ) in first marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made, [*hdc in each of next 4 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 4 sts,* (2 hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, sl st to top of first hdc. [48 hdc, 20 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {17 sts}]
Rnd 8: Turn, sc in first st, ch 1 {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in marked ch-2 sp, move marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st until reach start of Rnd, sl st to top of first hdc. [76 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps {19 sts each side}]
In keeping with my love of crocheting spirals I have a fun afghan square pattern for you all. This idea has been kicking around in my brain for a couple of years. I finally sat down and worked out the design with yarn and wrote up the pattern. It has a few challenges to keep it interesting, but those of you that are feeling intrepid will have lots of fun with it.
Worsted wt (Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/ 198 g, 370 yd/ 338 m)
Color A: Eggshell (sample used approximately 67.5 yards/ 36 grams)
Color B: Bluebell (sample used approximately 14 yards/ 7.5 grams)
Color C: Bubblegum Pink (sample used approximately 14 yards/ 7.5 grams)
Color D: Country Blue (sample used approximately 14 yards/ 7.5 grams)
Hook Size J (6 mm)
Notions
Medium Locking Stitch Markers: 8 in 1 color, 4 in 2nd color
Large Locking Stitch Markers 4 in any color
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Gauge Small spiral square = 4” across
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
Standing Single Crochet (Standing sc): make slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook.
Loose slip stitch (loose slip st): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.
Joining slip st (slip st): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
Double Crochet Cross Stitch (X-st): Skip one st, dc in next st, working around previously made dc, dc in skipped st. Each X-st uses 2 sts and creates 2 sts.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.
Stitch counts at the end of each round and row are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round or row.
Square starts with 4 small four color dc spiral squares that are joined together as the center, then a border of 5 rounds is worked as a frame.
When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches.
Instructions
Spirals (make 4)
Rnd 1: Begin with an adjustable slip knot in Color A, ch 2, (sc, hdc, dc) in second ch from hook {center ch st}, pull up working loop of current color and remove hook, place a large locking stitch marker in working loop to secure,
*insert hook in center ch st, pull up a loop of new color on shaft of hook, ch 1, working over beginning tail (sc, hdc, dc) in same ch st, pull up working loop of current color and remove hook, place a large locking stitch marker in working loop to secure*,
Rep from * to * with 2 other colors, 4 different colors total for the arms of your spiral, gently pull beginning tail of Color A to close center tightly. Place medium st markers in each st using a different color marker to indicate the last st of each color section. [1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc in each color]
Rnd 2: Begin with Color A, *(2 dc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 3 times, pull up working loop of current color and secure*, [switch to next color, Repeat from * to *] 3 times. [6 dc in each color]
Rnd 3: Begin with Color A, *(dc in next st, 2 dc in marked st, move st marker up to second st worked) 3 times, pull up working loop of current color*, [switch to next color, Repeat from * to *] 3 times. [9 dc in each color]
Rnd 4 (Round to Square): Begin with Color A,
*Tr in next st, (Tr, ch 1, Tr) in next st, 2 dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st loosely in next st, sl st in back loop of next st*, cut Color A with 10” tail, [switch to next color, Repeat from * to *] 3 times, cut Color B & C with 6” tail, cut Color D with 10” tail. [3 Tr, 1 ch-1 sp, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 loose sl st, 1 sl st in each color,{44 sts and 4 ch-1 sp around. 2nd sl st is not counted}]
Weave in center tails of spiral. Weave in Color B & C ending tails. Sew 4 spiral squares together with a whip-stitch using Color A and D ending tails (refer to photo for placement).
PM in ch-1 sp corners of joined spirals block (Color C Corners).
Square Border
Rnd 1: With RS facing, attach Color A in 3rd st to the right of corner ch-sp with a standing sc, *sc in each st and ch-sp until reach the marked corner ch-sp, (sc, ch-2, sc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made*, Repeat from * to * 3 times, sc in each st and ch-sp until reach beginning of Rnd, sl st to first sc of rnd to join. [104 sc, 4 ch-2 sp, {26 sc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in st before join {counts as first X-st of Rnd}, *X-st over next 2 sts*, Repeat from * to * 11 times, [(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, Repeat from * to * 13 times] 3 times, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made, Repeat from * to * once, join to top of ch-3 with slip st. [52 X-sts, 16 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, {13 X-sts, 4 dc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Rnd 3: Turn, sc, ch 1 in first st {sc and ch 1 count as first hdc of Rnd}, [hdc in each st until reach marked ch-sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in marked ch-sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st until reach end of Rnd, join to first hdc with slip st. [128 hdc, 4 ch-2 sp {32 hdc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Rnds 4 & 5: Repeat Rnd 3.
Count end of Rnd 4 [136 hdc, 4 ch-2 sp {34 hdc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Count end of Rnd 5 [144 hdc, 4 ch-2 sp {36 hdc each side between ch-2 sps}]
Hello my friends, I have another fun afghan square for you. I have been traveling and having all sorts of adventures with my family this summer. Early in June I went to Ireland with the Craft Tours trip hosted by Tamara Kelly of Moogly Blog. Appropriately this square pattern is Block #18 for the Moogly 2023 Afghan CAL and was inspired by the beautiful gardens we saw on the Ireland trip. You can find out more about the Moogly 2023 Afghan CAL and how Tamara adapted her colors for my design here.
Clematis Garden Afghan Square
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 12” square
Materials:
Yarn
Worsted wt (Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yd/338 m)
Color A: Daffodil (sample used approximately 2 yards/ 1.1 gram) Rnds 1-2
Color B: Oxford (sample used approximately 70 yards/ 37.6 grams) Rnds 3-4: 3.8 g, Rnds 9-13: 33.5 g
Color C: Lilac (sample used approximately 6.5 yards/ 3.5 grams) Rnd 5
Color D: Jade (sample used approximately 22.5 yards/ 12.1 grams) Rnds 6-8
Hook J / 6mm
Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers
Gauge First 4 rounds of pattern = 4” across square
Special Stitches and Abbreviations:
Place stitch marker (PM)
Standing Double Crochet (Standing dc): Make slip knot and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo and insert hook into indicated place, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice.
4 dc Shell Stitch (Shl): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated place.
Single crochet spike stitch (scSpike): Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop back to original round/row, 2 loops on hook, YO, pull thru both loops on hook to complete single crochet.
Extended Double Crochet stitch (ExtDC): YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 1 loop on hook, (YO, pull through 2 loops on hook) 2 times.
V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated place.
Granny Shell Stitch (GrShl): 3 dc in indicated place.
3 dc Cluster Stitch (CL): (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 3 times, YO pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.
Pattern Notes:
Square is worked center out. Attach yarn using a slip stitch unless otherwise stated. Keep tails to wrong side of fabric and weave in as work progresses. Ch 3 at beginning of rounds counts as a double crochet stitch unless otherwise stated. Be sure to pay close attention if a round is Right Side (RS) or Wrong Side (WS).
Instructions
Rnd 1 (WS): With Color A begin with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (sc, ch 2) 4 times in second ch from hook, sl st to first sc, gently tighten center of square, PM in ch-2 sps to mark corners. (4 sc, 4 ch- 2 spcs)
Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc.
Fasten off Color A. (12 sc, 4 ch- 2 spcs)
Rnd 3 (RS): With back side of Rnd 2 facing attach Color B with standing dc in middle sc of any side, dc in same st as join, [*sk next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, sk next st,* Shl in next st]3 times, repeat from * to * once, 2 dc in same st as join, ch 1, sl st to first dc of Rnd {completes first Shl of Rnd}. (4 Shl, 4 ch- 2 spcs)
Rnd 4 (RS): Ch 3, dc in same ch-sp as join, [ch 1, sk next 3 sts, Shl in next ch-sp] 7 times, move st markers up to ch-1 sp of Shls worked in marked ch-2 sps, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join, ch 1, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 {completes first Shl of Rnd}.
Fasten off Color B. (8 Shls, 8 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 5 (RS): With front side of Rnd 4 facing, attach Color C in ch-1 sp of side Shl with standing dc, dc in same ch-sp as join, [*ch 2, sk 2 sts, scSpike in corresponding sp between Shl and corner dc of Rnd 3, ch 2, sk 2 sts, Shl in marked ch-1 sp of next Shl, move st marker up to ch-1 sp of Shl just made, ch 2, sk 2 sts, scSpike in next corresponding sp between corner dc and next Shl of Rnd 3, ch 2, sk 2 sts,* Shl in ch-1 sp of next Shl] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join, ch 1, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3, {completes first Shl of Rnd}.
Fasten off Color C. (8 Shls, 16 ch-2 sps, 8 scSpike)
Rnd 6 (RS) Squaring up: With front side of Rnd 5 facing, attach Color D to ch-1 sp of side Shl, ch 1, sc in same sp as join, [*ch 1, sk 2 sts and ch-sp, (2 Tr, ExtDC) in next st, ch 2, sk ch-sp and 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-1 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 2, sk 2 sts and ch-sp, (2 Tr, ExtDC) in next st, ch 1, sk ch-sp and 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next Shl] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc of Rnd.
(4 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 16 Tr, 8 ExtDC, 12 ch-2 sp, 16 dc {17 sts each side between corner ch-2 sps})
Rnd 7 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first ch-1 sp, [*sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 space just made, sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st,* sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sl st to first sc of Rnd.
(76 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {19 sc each side between corner ch-2 sps})
End of Rnd 7 WS of Square
End of Rnd 7 from RS of Square
Rnd 8 (RS) V-sts: Ch 4, turn, dc in next st {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 3 times, [*(dc, ch-2, dc) in marked ch-sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, V-st in next st,* (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 6 times] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, (sk 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, sk 2 sts, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 to join.
Fasten off Color D. (28 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 9 (RS) Granny Shls: With front side of Rnd 8 facing, attach Color B with standing dc in ch-1 sp of any V-st along a side, 2 dc in same ch-sp as join {counts as first GrShl}, *sk 2 sts, GrShl in ch-1 sp of next V-st,* Repeat from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, sk 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, sl st to first dc of first GrShl to join.
(28 GrnShl, 16 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {25 sts each side between corner ch-2 sps})
Rnd 10 (WS) Bobbles: Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, (CL in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) 4 times, CL in next st, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, CL in next st,* (sc in each of next 2 sts, CL in next st) 8 times] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, (sc in each of next 2 sts, CL in next st) 3 times, sc in next st, sl st to first sc of Rnd.
(36 CL, 72 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {27 sts each side between ch-2 sp corners})
End of Rnd 10 WS of Square
End of Rnd 10 RS of Square
Rnd 11 (RS): Turn, sc, ch 2 {counts as first dc}, [dc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, dc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, sl st to join to 2nd ch of first ch-2.
(124 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {31 dc each side between ch-2 sp corners})
Rnd 12 (WS): Repeat Rnd 11. (140 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {35 dc each side between ch-2 sp corners})
End of Rnd 12 RS of Square
Rnd 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move stitch marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, sl st to first sc to join.
Fasten off Color B. (148 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {37 sc each side between ch-2 sp corners})
It’s beginning to warm up more days on my mountain and the bunnies are venturing out to see if they can find any fresh greens to nibble. We will still get some snow storms before our real warm weather arrives, but I am enjoying every hour of warmth we get. Easter is coming up this weekend and I have a fun little crochet pattern for you. The written version is below, for those of you that prefer a stitch chart or PDF version you can purchase it in my Ravelry Shop by clicking here.
Spring Bunny
designed by Andee Graves
This fun little bunny can be worked flat facing either left or right. Add your bunny as an embellishment to hats, mittens, sweaters or blankets. Or make the stuffy version for a fun little toy to add to Easter baskets or as a gift for a bunny lover in your life.
Finished Size: Finished bunny is approximately 4.25” tall
Materials
Yarn: Worsted Weight yarn, #4 weight category,
1 Flat Bunny uses approximately 7-10 yards of yarn. Stuffy Bunny uses approximately 15 – 20 yards of yarn
Sample was made with Premier “Every Day Worsted Anti-Pilling”, 180 yds/165 m, 3.5 oz/100 g,
Hook: H / 5mm or size needed to obtain gauge.
Notions: Yarn/tapestry needle, Poly fiber fill if making stuffy
Gauge: First 2 dc rounds = 2 3/8” (6 cm) diameter
Special Stitches:
Chain 4 Picot (ch-4 Picot) Chain 4, slip stitch in previous stitch made using front loop and top side loop.
Pattern Notes
Round 1 of stitches is worked into an adjustable slip knot, if you prefer the magic circle start, make 1 less chain stitch at the start of Round 1.
For Stuffy version use the scraps left from weaving in the beginning tails and Side 1 ending tail to stuff the bunny’s head.
Instructions for Flat Bunny
Right Facing Bunny
Rnd 1: Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 3 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in third chain from hook, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (12 dc) Tighten center and weave in beginning tail.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 {counts as first dc}, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 4 sts, (dc, ch-4 Picot, dc) in next st, 2 dc in each of next 6 sts, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc, 1 ch-4 Picot)
Row 3 (Bunny head): Ch 3 {counts as first Tr}, Tr in same st as join, 3 Tr in next st, *ch 7, working in back bumps of chs just made, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip st thru front loop and top side loop of previous Tr, * {first ear made}, Rep from * to * once, {second ear made}, (dc, ch 2, slip st) in next st. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 6 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc)
Left Facing Bunny
Rnd 1: Work same as Right Facing Bunny.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 {counts as first dc}, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each of next 7 sts, ch-4 Picot, 2 dc in each of next 4 sts, join with slip st to top of beginning ch. (24 dc, 1 ch-4 Picot)
Row 3 (Bunny head): Ch 2, dc in same st as join, *ch 7, working in back bumps of chs just made, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip st thru front loop and top side loop of previous dc, *{first ear made}, Rep from * to * once, {second ear made}, 3 Tr in next st, (Tr, ch 3, slip st) in next st. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 6 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc)
Finishing
Weave in ending tail or use to sew bunny to project.
Instructions for Bunny Stuffy
Side 1 Bunny
Rnds 1 – 2: Work same as Right Facing Flat Bunny. Save beginning tail scrap.
Row 3 (Bunny head): Work same as Right Facing Flat Bunny but work only first Ear. Fasten off. (5 Tr, 4 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc) Weave in ending tail, saving ending tail scrap.
Side 2 Bunny
Rnds 1 – 2: Work same as Left Facing Flat Bunny. Save beginning tail scrap.
Row 3 (Bunny head): Work same as Left Facing Flat Bunny but work only first Ear. Fasten off leaving 20” long tail. (5 Tr, 4 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc)
Finishing
Holding Side 1 and 2 with WS together, using a whip stitch sew around Rnd 2 of body of bunny from 1 side of head to other, place a bit of fiber fill stuffing inside circle of bunny body. Sew along base of bunny head to close circle.
Sew around head, using a whipstitch and leaving bunny ears free, use beginning tail and ending tail scraps to lightly stuff head before sewing nose. Weave in last tail and trim excess.
In the image above you can see how I squished my bunny stuffy to make him sit on a flat bottom. I didn’t stuff the body very firmly so that I had some squishability when the bunny was finished.
I hope you are having a wonderful return to spring and enjoy crocheting some bunnies of your own.
Happy Birthday to me! Again! That means it is time for an Afghan Block pattern in celebration of another trip around the sun! My block is #21 in the 2022 Moogly Afghan CAL too. You can find out more about the CAL and the links to the other blocks over on Mooglyblog.com. Check out what Tamara did with my block on her post about Block #21.
I had a lot of fun creating this block, especially since I was doing my favorite style of design where I go from 1 shape to another. In this block that is Round to Square. I’ve labeled the different parts of the pattern to help you stay on track when working your square.
Floating Star Afghan Block
designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Finished Size: 12” square
Materials:
Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),
Color A: #1304 Santorini – Rnds 1-3, 13-14 (used 18.1 g / 34 yds)
Color B: #1502 Iced Aqua – Rnds 4-5, 8-12 (used 29.4 g / 55 yds)
Color C: #1101 Eggshell – Rnds 6 -7 (used 9.9 g / 18 yds)
Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge
Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers
Gauge First 3.5 rounds of pattern = 4” across diameter
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
(PM) Place Marker
(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
(Ch 3 picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop and top side loop of previous stitch, slip stitch tightly.
(Fan) Pointed Fan Stitch: (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp.
(Standing dc) Standing double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] 2 times.
(Standing hdc) Standing half double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
(Standing BPdc) Standing Back Post double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double stitch.
(BPTr) Back Post Treble: YO twice, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard treble stitch.
(BPdc) Back Post double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double crochet stitch.
(BPhdc) Back Post half double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard half double crochet stitch.
Pattern Notes:
Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.
Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
All rounds are joined with a tight slip stitch to the indicated stitch or chain.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. After Rnd 8, stitch counts along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count and do not include corner chain spaces.
Instructions
Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in 4th chain from hook, join {see pattern notes} to top of beg ch. [12 dc]
Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 4 {counts as first dc and ch-1 sp}, [dc in next st, ch 1] 11 times, join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. [12 dc, 12 ch-1 sp]
Rnd 3 (RS): (sl st, ch 3 {counts as first dc}, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 11 times, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color A. [36 dc]
Rnd 4 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing dc in 2nd dc of a 3 dc group, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [ch 1, skip 2 sts, V-st in next st] 11 times, ch 1, join to first dc of rnd. [12 V-st, 12 ch-1 sp]
Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in first dc of next V-st, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st] 11 times, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color B [60 dc]
Rnd 6 (RS): Attach Color C with Standing dc in center dc that was worked in a ch-1 sp of Rnd 4 V-st, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in sp before next dc, skip 2 sts,* V-st in next dc] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first dc of rnd. [24 V-sts]
Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp of first V-st, [*skip 2 sts, Fan in ch-1 sp of next V-st, skip 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next V-st] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first sc of rnd. Fasten off Color C. [12 Fans, 12 sc]
Round to Square
Rnd 8 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing BPdc around post of first dc of a Fan, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,
[ch 1, *skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc next st, BPTr next st, skip next sc, BPTr next st, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,* ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, BPdc each of next 2 sts, BPhdc next st] 3 times, ch 1, Rep * to * once, ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, join to first BPdc of rnd. PM in ch-3 sps to mark 4 corners. [16 BPTr, 32 BPdc, 24 BPhdc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 sp]
Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-3 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, join to first sc of rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 48 sc, 8 loose sl st, 8 hdc, 32 dc] {24 sts per side}
Rnd 10 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in next st of Rnd 9, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made,
dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in each of next 3 sts of Rnd 9] 4 times, join to first sc of Rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 40 sc, 16 hdc, 56 dc] {28 sts per side}
Square Rounds to 12”
Rnd 11 (WS): Turn, (sc, ch 1) in first st {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in marked ch sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join to first hdc. [120 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {30 sts per side}
Rnd 12 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in marked ch sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. [128 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {32 sts per side}
Rnd 13 (WS): With WS facing attach Color A with Standing hdc to any st on side, Rep Rnd 11. [136 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {34 sts per side}
Weave in tails and block. When pinning out to block it is helpful to pin points of star to lay flat and then gently steam to make them lay down on the surface of the block.
For those of you that may be wondering why the blog has been so quiet, I have been a busy little bee working on lots of freelance designs for various publications. I’ll share more about those designs once they are published. I’ve also been working away on developing more classes to teach at local shops, fiber festivals and hopefully online soon.
I colored my page with my Staedler Noris Club colored pencils. I have found these to be a great inexpensive pencil for coloring. I also really like the Anti-Breaking System these pencils have. I can get super sharp points without losing chunks of the lead.
All My Love Heart Motif Pattern
This little heart is a great way to add some love to your crochet projects, or work a bunch up in a variety of colors to decorate handmade cards. Needing only a little over 8 yards of worsted weight yarn to make, they are a prefect way to use up those bits of yarn scraps.
Yarn & Hook: Worsted Weight yarn with Size H (5 mm) Hook. Samples in photo are made with Berroco Ultra Wool worsted weight yarn in a variety of colors from my stash with a size H / 5 mm hook.
Heart is 2 1/8 inches across widest point and 2” tall from top of bumps to bottom point.
Notions
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Special Stitches
Chain 2 Picot: Ch 2, slip st in top of previous stitch working under the front loop and top side loop. If you need help with this technique visit my blog post: Don’t Fear the Picot.
Pattern Notes:
This heart motif begins with an Adjustable slip knot. If you need help with this technique check out my YouTube video.
Instructions
Rnd 1: Starting with an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center, slip st to top of first sc. [7 sc]
Rnd 2: Skip first st, 5 dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st, slip st to to of first sc of Rnd 1. [14 dc]
Rnd 3: Sc in first st, 2 sc in each of next 4 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, ch-2 picot in previous sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 4 sts, (sc, slip st) in last st. [24 sc]
Fasten off and pull ending tail thru slip st and tighten. Weave in all ends.
Have a great time crocheting hearts and showing your love. Tag me on Instragram: @andee.graves so I can see how your hearts turned out and how you used them.
I’m excited to share with you that I’m participating in the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. Be sure to join the fun! 28 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, sewing, and crafting projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week will have a theme.
Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens Week 2 (July 8-14): Women Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone Week 4 (July 22-28): Home Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets
My Braided Ribs Neck Cozy pattern is a fun to crochet and quick gift for anyone on your gift making list. Just use an appropriate color for the person you are giving it to. As a neck cozy it uses approximately 200 yards of worsted weight yarn. Or add another skein of yarn to make it longer, leave off the button holes and you have a warm scarf.
Buttoned along front edge
You can style your finished cozy 2 different ways. 1) Bring the button end over the left shoulder and button along opposite end, or…
Overlapped ends and buttoned
2) Bring the button end over right shoulder and overlap ends to button.
Braided Ribs Neck Cozy by Andee Graves
Skill Level: Intermediate
Finished size: 6.75 inches (16.8 cm) wide x 30 inches (75 cm) long
Stitches used: Foundation Single Crochet (fsc), Chain (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Double Crochet (dc)
Materials:
Yarn – Berroco “Ultra Wool” worsted weight, 100% superwash wool, 219 yds/200 m, 3.5 oz/100 g
1 skein Color #3318
Hook – I-9 (5.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions – yarn/tapestry needle, 5 – 1/2” Buttons
Gauge: In X-stitch pattern 15 stitches and 8.25 rows = 4” Gauge is not critical, you want a soft fabric.
Special Stitches/Abbreviations:
X-st – Cross Stitch: Skip 1 st, dc in next st, working around the first dc made dc in the previous skipped st. if you need help making this stitch I have a tutorial on my blog post: The Secrets to Crocheting the X-stitch.
Pattern Notes:
All double crochet rows start with a modified turning chain. Turn and work a single crochet in first stitch, chain 2. Counts as first double crochet of the row.
Instructions
Row 1 (RS): Work 26 fsc.
Row 2: Turn, (sc, ch 2) in first st {counts as first dc here and thru-out pattern}, [X-st using next 2 sts] 12 times, dc in last st. (12 X-sts, 2 dc)
Row 3: Turn, (sc, ch 2) in first st, dc in next st, [X-st using next 2 sts] 11 times, dc in last 2 sts. (11 X-sts, 4 dc)
Rows 4 – 63: Alternate repeating Rows 2 and 3.
Row 64: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, [ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Buttonholes created in Row 64 and 65.
Row 65: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, [2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in last 2 sts. Fasten off. (26 sc)
Finishing
Button placement.
Gently Block and weave in ends. Sew buttons on Right side of fabric at beginning of neck cozy along righthand edge of fabric to align with buttonholes from Row 64.
I hope you enjoy this pattern, feel free to tag me @andee.graves on Instagram with photos of your finished projects. Make sure you check out all the other fun designs from the 28 other crafty bloggers thru the rest of July. We’ve also partnered with some of our favorite companies to get some great prizes for you, scroll on down for more information.
Learn more about participating designers, the schedule, and how to enter to win the prizes on Underground Crafter. The deadline for entering the giveaway is Wednesday, August 4, 2021 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.
How To Join the 2021 Christmas in July Make Along
You can join in by crocheting, knitting, sewing, or making the projects as you have time.
Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CIJMakeAlong2021 on all social media.
If you’d like to chat with other crafters, join the Underground Crafters Facebook group
By the end of the Make Along, you’ll have up to 31 awesome projects. Get ready for the handmade holiday season while having fun with us!
Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along post as it is released.
It has been super hot even here in Colorado, so I am looking for small projects to work on and hats are one of my favorites. I’m teaching a class next week “Spiraling Stripes Hat” that is a great way to add stripes to your hats without any seams. You can still register for this class until 8 a.m. Central time this Sunday, July 18, 2021.
I like the look of ribbed brims in knit hats, but since I crochet much faster than I knit, I wanted a version for when I was wielding my hook. After a lot of experimenting over the past 15 years I have settled on using “skinny” half double crochet post stitches as my all time favorite method. You will see this ribbing in a lot of my hat patterns (like the Spiraling Stripes Hat).
For those of you that have never worked post stitches, their name comes from the fact that they are worked around the “post” of a stitch instead of under the top 2 strands of a stitch. This gives them much more of a textured look and changes how the fabric behaves.
With a taller stitch like the double crochet it is quite easy to see the “post” of the stitch and to work around the center of this post when working post stitches. For a stitch like the Half Double or Single crochet that becomes a bit more fiddly to find.
The first time I tried using post stitches for my ribbing I decided to do what I call “skinny” post stitches. Instead of working down into the stitch, I use the very top of the post just under the “v” that makes the top of the stitch (the bit of brown yarn the arrow is pointing to in the photograph above). This creates a slimmer looking stitch because the base of the post stitch isn’t stretched around the thickest part of the other stitch.
By the way this tutorial is showing the post stitches and finished work for right-handed crocheters. If you are left-handed and crochet with your hook in the left-hand, then reverse what I’m doing here.
For the ribbing affect I alternate my post stitches, so I needed an even number of stitches. I generally start with a FPhdc, and end the round with a BPhdc. The first round of ribbing is the trickiest.
Once you have finished that round it just becomes a matter of working FP stitches into FP stitches and BP into BP. In the photo above you can see both the appearance of the ribbing from the front and back.
For a Front Post half double crochet (FPhdc): Insert the hook from front to back to the right of the post you want to work around, then bring the hook from the back to the front under the top of the stitch to the left of the post (indicated by arrow in photo above). Yarn over and pull up a loop thru all the stitches, yarn over and complete your hdc. The post of this new stitch will be sitting on the front of your fabric.
For a Back Post half double crochet (BPhdc): Insert the hook from back to front to the right of the post you want to work around, then bring the hook from the front to the back under the top of the stitch for the left of the post (indicated by arrow in photo above).
Yarn over and pull up a loop thru all the stitches, yarn over and complete your hdc. The post of this new stitch will be sitting on the back of your fabric.
Finished Back Post Half Double Crochet
This is how I make my “skinny” front post and back post half double crochet stitches. You can modify this technique with any crochet stitch, but the half double crochet is my favorite. Practice working your skinny post stitches with this quick and easy headband pattern.
Summer Stretch Headband
Designed by Andee Graves
Skill level: Intermediate
Special Stitches
Materials:
Yarn – Berroco “Ultra Wool” worsted weight, 100% superwash wool, 219 yds/200 m, 3.5 oz/100 g
Color A – #3346, Color B – #3312, Color C – #3315
Hook – H (5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions – yarn/tapestry needle
Gauge: 8 FSC = 2”
Special Stitches/Abbreviations:
fsc (Foundation Single Crochet)
FPhdc (Skinny Front Post Half Double Crochet) – The post stitch is worked under the top 2 strands of the stitch. YO, insert hook into top of previous st from front to back, then bring hook from back to front thru top of next st (this is working around post of st), YO, pull up a loop thru both st tops, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
BPhdc (Back Post Half Double Crochet) – The post stitch is worked under the top 2 strands of the stitch. YO, insert hook into top of previous st from back to front, then bring hook from front to back thru top of next st (this is working around post of st), YO, pull up a loop thru both st tops, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.
Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.
Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.
PM (Place Marker)
Pattern Notes:
Headband is worked in a 1×1 rib using skinny front and back post half double crochet stitches, then flower is worked in 2 parts and sewn to headband.
Instructions
Headband
Rnd 1: With Color A, crochet 96 fsc, without twisting join with a sl st in first fsc.(96 fsc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, FPhdc around post of first st, [BPhdc around post of next st, FPhdc around post of next st] 47 times, BPhdc around post of last st and base of beginning ch-2, sl st to top of first FPhdc. (48 FPhdc, 48 BPhdc)
Rnds 3 & 4: Repeat Rnd 2.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 96 sts around, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. (96 sc)
Use beginning tail to close gap at beginning of Rnd 1, weave in all loose ends.
Flower 1
Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.
Flower 2
Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 2, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 2, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]
Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, dc, Exdc, picot, Exdc, dc, sc) in ch-2 sp, skip next st, sl st in ch-1 sp, skip to next ch-2 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning sc of Rnd. Fasten off
Finishing
Weave in tails on flowers, then use remaining tails to sew Flower 1 to Flower 2, then both flowers on headband. Best spot to sew them is over joining seam. When weaving in ends follow the “columns” of your post stitches so you don’t lose the stretchiness of your ribbing.
Mamas2Hands 