Pebbled Star Afghan Square

Oh wow! The past couple of weeks have been really crazy for me, I’ll share more about that later. The question right now is how did we get to October and my birthday again?! That means it is time for a fun pattern as a gift to all my dear readers to celebrate. This pattern is available free to all of you here on my blog, but if you would prefer a PDF version with stitch charts, is available for purchase in my Ravelry Shop.

I’m really happy with this afghan square, I had a lot of fun changing directions with the center square becoming a diamond shape, as well as the fun textures of the little clusters and surface single crochet. This square is #21 in the Moogly 2020 Afghan CAL, you can find the other gorgeous squares designed by lots of my other crochet blogging friends.

Tamara’s version of my square crocheted in gorgeous purples.

Pebbled Star Afghan Square

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size: 12” square

Materials:

Yarn – Worsted weight yarn in 4 colors : Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

  • Color A: #1401 Pewter
  • Color B: #1805 Bluebell
  • Color C: #1969 Wintergreen
  • Color D: #1101 Eggshell

Hook – J / 6mm

Notions – Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge: First 7 rounds of pattern = 4” across square


Abbreviations/Special Stitches

  • (RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.
  • (WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.
  • (PM) Place Marker
  • (Cl) 3 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.
  • (Fan) Fan Stitch: [(dc, ch 1) 3 times, dc] in indicated place.
  • (sl st loosely) Loose slip stitch: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook keeping loose like making a chain st.
  • (sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.
  • (V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.
  • (sc2tog) Single Crochet 2 together: Insert hook in first st, YO, pull up a loop, insert hook in second st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.
  • (FPsc) Front Post Single Crochet: These are the surface single crochets worked around the post of the single crochets in Rnds 11 and 15.

Pattern Notes:

  • Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.
  • First 2 rounds are worked without turning, then Rounds 3-8 are worked in turned rounds. Round 9 will be joined and worked in same direction as Round 8. Rounds 10 – 15 are worked in turned rounds. Rounds 16-19 are worked without turning. It is important that Cluster stitch rounds are worked as wrong side rounds to be sure that they “pop” to the right side of the square.
  • Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.
  • Stitch counts at the end of each round and row are shown in italicized brackets at end of each round or row.
  • When instructions specify “sl st loosely”, this means work those slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches.
  • Surface crochet embellishment will be worked after square is finished. When working surface crochet stitches be sure to keep tension loose so that stitches sit squarely on the surface.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Begin with Color A. Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd chain from hook, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [8 sc]

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd.  PM in each ch-2 sp to mark corners. [12 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 3 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, Cl in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [16 sc, 4 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 4 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made,* sc in next 5 sts] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next 2 sts, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [28 sc {7 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 5 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, [*Cl in next st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc next st, Cl next st,* sc next 3 sts] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in last 2 sts, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd.   [28 sc, 8 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 6 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in sts to end of Rnd, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [44 sc {11 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 7 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next 3 st, Cl in next st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, Cl in next st, sc next 3 sts, Cl next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd.  [40 sc, 12 Cl, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 8 (RS): Repeat Rnd 6. [60 sc {15 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 9 (RS): Change to Color B. With RS facing attach yarn at first sc on left corner.  Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, Fan in next st, skip 2 sts, (sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) 2 times*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [32 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 Fan, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, sc next st, ch 1, skip next 3 sts/sps, (V-st next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st) 2 times, V-st next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next 3 sts/sps, sc next st, sc next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 st, sc next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc next st, ch 1 skip next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [32 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 12 V-st, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sts/sps, [*(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, sc in next 4 sts/sps, sc2tog next st and sp, sc in next 5 sts/sps, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-1 sp,  sc in next 5 sts/sps, sc2tog next sp and st,* sc in next 4 sts/sps] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, sc in next st, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [88 sc, 8 sc2tog, 8 ch-2 sp]

Round 12 in progress, moving corner stitch markers.

Rnd 12 (WS): Change to Color C. With WS facing, attach new yarn in first sc at right corner, ch 1, sc in same st as join, [*ch 1, skip 1 st, sc next st, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc next st, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next st) 2 times, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc next st, ch 1 , slip st in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp at point of star, ch 1,* sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [ 16 V-st, 16 dc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Round 12 finished and new corners marked.

Rnd 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in same st as join, [*loose slip st in next ch-1 sp, skip slip st, loose slip st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st, hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next 2 sts, (V-st next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts) 2 times, V-st next ch-1 sp, Fan in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to middle ch-1 sp of Fan, V-st in next ch-1 sp, (skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp) 2 times, ch 1, skip 2 sts, hdc in next ch-1 sp*, sc in next st] 3 times, Repeat from * to * once, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd.  [8 ch-1 sp, 8 sc, 8 hdc, 8 loose slip st, 24 V-st, 4 Fan]

Rnd 14 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc and hdc in next st, skip next 2 sts/sps, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-1 sp, move stitch marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, dc next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, V-st in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (dc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts/sps, hdc and sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 2 loose slip sts, sc in next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [ 24 ch-1 sp, 16 sc, 32 hdc, 24 dc, 8 V-st, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 15 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st and sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [136 sc {34 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 16 – 19 (RS): Change to Color D.  Ch 1, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off at end of Rnd 19.

  • Rnd 16 count [144 sc {36 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
  • Rnd 17 count [152 sc {38 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
  • Rnd 18 count [160 sc {40 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
  • Rnd 19 count [168 sc {42 sc each side}, 4 ch-2 sp]
Completed thru Round 19.

Surface Crochet Outlines

If you are not familiar with working surface single crochet you may find it easier to work the surface crochet first on Rnd 15. If you want to work the surface crochet before finishing the square, complete Rnd 12 before doing the surface crochet on Rnd 11, and complete Rnd 16 before doing the surface crochet on Rnd 15.

Surface single crochet around stitches of Rnd 11:

With Color D attach yarn with a standing sc around the post of any of the sc along a straight edge before a side point, [continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the side point ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the slip st from Rnd 12 as the “post”, continue with FPsc around the post of each Rnd 11 sc until reach the corner point ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the inside strands of the 2 dc from Rnd 12 as the “post”] 4 times, continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the beginning of your surface crochet round, slip st to join to first FPsc of round. [112 FPsc {14 between each point counting 1 point]

Surface crochet/FP sc around posts of Rnd 15:

Inserting hook using inside strands of the 2 corner sc from Round 16.

With Color A attach yarn with a standing sc around the post of any of the sc along a straight edge before a corner ch-2 sp, [continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, work one FPsc using the inside strands of the 2 sc from Rnd 16 as the “post”] 4 times, continue working a FPsc around the post of each sc until you reach the beginning of your surface crochet round, slip st to join to first FPsc of round. [144 FPsc {36 each side counting 1 corner}]

Finishing

Weave in tails and block.

Josephine Cloche Crochet Pattern

I’m so excited to be part of the 4th Annual Stitch & Hustle Blog Hop: The Perfect Picot. Links to visit the other participating designers patterns are after this pattern, as well as a link to the “Win All You Need to Make This” Giveaway information. A big Thank You to WeCrochet.com for providing the yarn for all these designs.

Picots are a stitch that I love for edgings because they add a visual texture that creates a finished look. For this pattern I have incorporated the picot stitch for the edging on the brim of the hat and each flower has picots for additional texture and shaping of the petals. If you have a hard time working picots you can check out my blog post: Don’t Fear the Picot with photo tutorials to help you see how I work them. I have also included a mini photo tutorial in the instructions for Flower 1 to help you with the picots worked into the cluster stitches.

I hope you enjoy my pattern for this fun Cloche Hat. I named it after my Great Aunt Josephine, who was quite the style maven in the 1920s. I’ve always loved looking at old photos of her from those years and she was my inspiration.

I have been wanting to design a winter hat that shaded my eyes a bit during the winter as our Colorado winters can be very sunny. I have lots of summer hats that provide plenty of shade from the sun, but most of my winter hats are beanie styles. The drunken brim on this hat is has just enough extension to give a little protection, while the wool yarn makes for a lovely warm hat perfect for the colder weather.

Josephine Cloche

designed by Andee Graves

Pattern Details

Skill Level: Intermediate

Stitches used – Chain (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Half Double Crochet (hdc), Double Crochet (dc), Cluster (Cl), Extended Double Crochet (Exdc), Picot (picot)

Size: Finished size 23 inches head circumference at beginning of brim.

Materials:

Yarn – We Crochet “Swish Worsted”, 100% Fine Superwash Merino Wool (50 g; 110yds), #4 weight category

Color A – #25630 Rainforest Heather (Dark Teal)

Color B – #26067 Wonderland Heather (Pale Aqua)

Color C – #25147 Amethyst Heather (Deep Purple)

Color D – #26068 Conch (Bright Peach)

Hook – H (5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

yarn/tapestry needle,

16 stitch markers in 2 colors: 8 in first color, 8 in second color

Gauge:  Diameter of first 6 Rnds of Crown, also 9 rows and 16 sts of double crochet worked in the Rnd, both = 4 inches (10 cm)

Special Stitches/Abbreviations:

Picot – ch 3, insert hook thru front loop and top side loop of indicated st, YO, slip st tightly.

Cl (2 dc cluster) – (YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops) 2 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.

Exdc (Extended double crochet) – YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 1 loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] twice.

PM (Place Marker)

Pattern Notes:

This hat is worked crown down with standard increases in continuous rounds for the first 13 rounds, then worked is turned so that the front of the previous rounds’ stitches become the wrong side of fabric.

The band of the hat is worked in joined rounds with short rows worked to create an asymmetrical shaping. All band rounds and short rows are worked in the same direction.  I have included a photo of how I used stitch markers to help me keep track of where the stitch heights change. I used a different color marker for the regular band rounds from the markers for the short rows.

After band is finished work is turned again. Next a flared “drunken” brim is worked in joined rounds, without turning. Then work is turned to crochet the edging. If a more structured brim is desired the edging can be crocheted over millinery wire to stiffen.

Flowers are worked separately and can be sewn to the hat band or sewn to a pin backing to attach to hat.

Instructions

Crown

Rnd 1: Start with Color A using an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (1 sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd ch from hook. PM in last hdc with first color st marker. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st, PM in 2nd hdc made using second color st markers 7 times, move last st marker to last st made. [16 hdc]

Rnds 3-10: Hdc in each unmarked st, 2 hdc in each marked st moving st marker to 2nd st made. At end of Rnd 10 remove all markers except last st marker. [Count at end of Rnd 10 – 80 hdc]

Rnds 11 – 13: Hdc in each st to last st, move st marker up to last st of Rnd.

Step down at end of Rnd 13: Sc in next st, loosely sl st in next st, sl st in next st. Fasten off Color A, change to Color B.

Band

Rnd 1: Continue with Color B, ch 1, turn, sc in loose sl st from step down, sc next 6 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]

Short Row 1: With Color C. Attach new yarn with sl st at 10th st from beginning of previous Rnd, sc next 10 sts, hdc next 10 sts, dc next 20 sts, hdc next 10 sts, sc next 10 sts, sl st next st, fasten off yarn. [20 sc, 20 hdc, 20 dc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc next 7 sts, hdc next 18 sts, dc next 30 sts, hdc next 18 sts, sc next 7 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [14 sc, 36 hdc, 30 dc]

Short Row 2: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 3: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 4: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 4: With Color D. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 2.

Short Row 5: With Color C. Repeat Short Row 1.

Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off Color B, change to Color A.

Brim

Rnd 1: Continue with Color A, ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st around, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [80 hdc]

Rnd 2: Using 8 st markers PM in 3rd st then in every 10th st around, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in marked sts moving st marker to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [88 hdc]

Rnd 3: Add a st marker in 5th st past current st markers, total of 16 markers, ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [104 hdc]

Rnd 4 & 5: Ch 2, hdc in each un-marked st, 2 hdc in each marked st, move st markers to second st made, skip beginning ch-2, join with sl st to first hdc of Rnd. [end of Rnd 5 – 136 hdc]

Rnd 6 (Picot edging): Ch 1, turn, sc next 2 sts, picot in sc just made, (sc next 4 sts, picot in last sc just made) 33 times, sc in next 2 sts, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [136 sc, 34 picot]

All flowers start with an adjustable slip knot, if substituting magic circle ch 1 at start instead of ch 2.

Flower 1

Rnd 1: Color D, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [5 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 3, Cl in same sc as join, picot in Cl, ch 3 [(sl st, ch 3, Cl) in next sc, picot in Cl, ch 3,] 4 times, sl st in first sc again. Fasten off.


Flower 2

Rnd 1: With Color C, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as join, [ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, sc in next st] 4 times, ch 3, sc in next st, ch 1, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, dc, 3 Exdc, dc, hdc, sc) in ch-3 sp, skip to next ch-3 sp,] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 of Rnd.

Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, sc next st, (sc, picot in sc just made, sc) in next st, sc in next st, ch 2, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc] 5 times. Fasten off

Flower 3 

Rnd 1: With Color B, ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center of circle, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc]

Rnd 2: Ch 1, [(sc, ch 5, sc) in next st, ch 1, skip next st] 5 times, join with sl st to first sc of Rnd. [10 sc, 5 ch-1 sp, 5 ch-5 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, 2 dc, Exdc, ch 1, Exdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-5 sp] 5 times, join with sl st to beginning ch-1 sp.

Rnd 4: [Ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, {(sc, picot in sc just made) in next st/ch sp} 3 times, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sl st before next sc,] 5 times. Fasten off

Finishing

Weave in tails for hat.

Stack Flowers sandwiching flower 2 between 1 and 3. Use tails to sew them together referencing photo for staggering of petals.

Finish by sewing flowers to hat band where the pink X is shown in photo, or sew to a pin backing to make removable.

A PDF version of this pattern is available in my Ravelry Shop and includes stich charts for the flowers and crown. You can purchase it by clicking here: BUY NOW.

You can visit all the other designers in the Perfect Picot Blog Hop using the links below:

Be sure to enter the drawing for the fantastic giveaway “Win All You Need to Make This”. There will be 5 lucky winners for 5 different groups of designs. The drawing is open Worldwide and ends October 9th. Visit the Stitch & Hustle blog hop main post for all the details.

Crochet Really Round Circles

Have you ever noticed how working a flat circle in larger sizes with regular increases you end up with a polygon shape. The stitches between the increase points make a flat edge. These can be fun shapes, but what if you want the pleasing curve of a really rounded edge for your circle?

Today I’m posting a pattern for a 10 round flat circle that comes out really round, as well as the tips and tricks to make even larger flat rounds that will be really round.

The simple formula to remember for working flat circles is:

Number of stitches in Round 1 = Number of increases in each following round.

You can learn more about the number of stitches recommended for the first round for different stitch heights in my post: Another Pi Day Celebration. For my example today I’m using the half double crochet stitch which needs 8 stitches in the first round.

There are 2 methods of crocheting in the round: Continuous Spiral or Concentric Rounds. For today’s pattern I am using the continuous spiral method. It eliminates the noticeable joins and chains to get to taller stitch heights each round. It does mean you need to keep track of the final stitch in each round. I use a stitch marker that is a different color than my increase stitch markers. If you prefer to work concentric rounds you can apply these same tips for getting a really round circle.

When working circles you want your increases to be evenly spaced each round. My favorite way to keep track of my increases is to use stitch markers. In the case of our half double crochet circle, I place a stitch marker in each stitch at the end of Round 1. I also add my end of round stitch marker in the last stitch.

For all the following rounds I work 2 stitches in the marked stitch then move the stitch marker to the second stitch made. When I work the next round of the circle I crochet 2 stitches in the newly marked stitch and move it up the same way. The photo above shows the end of Round 2 with 8 increase markers (orange) and the last stitch marked with a larger yellow stitch marker.

If I continue increasing in this same style after about 5 rounds it becomes noticeable how the increases line up like the spokes of a wheel. The stitches on the last round will begin to flatten out along the edge giving an octagonal shape instead of a circle. The more rounds worked the more this becomes exaggerated. The photo above shows a completed 10 round circle worked this way.

The trick to creating a really round circle is to break up those “spokes” of increases. The easiest way to do that is to move your increase points before starting the next round. The stitch markers are still really handy, especially as you work larger rounds.

When working circles, whether really round style or the traditional spoke style of increases, the number of stitches in each increase section of your circle will be the same as the Round number you are working. Example (photo above) in Round 4 you will have 3 unmarked stitches and 1 marked stitch for 4 stitches in each section. This holds true no matter what height and number of stitches you begin with in Round 1.

End of Rnd 4 before starting Rnd 5: green arrows indicate where to move Increase St Markers

To break up the spokes of increases you will need to move your increases to the approximate center of each of these sections. Example: after completing Round 4 there are 3 unmarked stitches between each marked stitch. You will shift your stitch markers over to the middle of the unmarked stitches.

Let’s get you started crocheting your first Really Round Circle. For this pattern I have included suggested hook size and the gauge I got, but you can play with hook size and even yarn size to get a fabric that appeals to you. I worked my circles with a worsted weight acrylic yarn, if you used 100% cotton these rounds make great hot pads for your table top.

Really Round Circle

By Andee Graves

Finished Size: 10 Rounds 7.25 inches/18.5 cm diameter (across center),

Gauge: 5 Rounds = 4 inches/10 cm.

Yarn: Worsted Weight Acrylic Yarn, approximately 42 yards/38.4 meters, .67 oz/19 grams for one circle.

Hook: US Size I/9 (5.5.mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: 8 stitch markers in one color (Increase stitch markers), 1 stitch marker in different color (End-of-Round stitch marker), yarn needle for weaving in ends.

Pattern Notes: Stitch counts for each round are shown in italicized square brackets at end. Once you are sure of you count at end of Round 2 or 3, you may find it helpful to weave in the beginning tail to get it out of your way. Always move End-of-Round stitch marker to last stitch of each round as completed.

Instructions

Rnd 1: Start with an adjustable slip knot (YouTube Video here), Ch 2, (sc, 7 hdc) in 2nd chain from hook. Pull gently on beginning tail to tighten center. With increase stitch markers place 1 in each stitch, place End-of-Round stitch marker in last stitch. [1 sc, 7 hdc]

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each marked st, moving increase stitch markers to second st made in each stitch. [16 hdc]

End of Rnd 2, ready for Rnd 3.

Rnd 3: (Hdc in unmarked st, 2 hdc in marked st, move stitch marker to first st made) 8 times. [24 hdc]

End of Rnd 3, ready for Rnd 4.

Rnd 4: [Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move stitch marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [32 hdc]

Rnd 5: Move each Increase st marker back 2 sts from original marked st. [2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 3 sts] 8 times. [40 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 6.

Rnd 6: Move each Increase st marker forward 2 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [48 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 7.

Rnd 7: Move each Increase st marker back 3 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next st, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 4 sts] 8 times. [56 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 8.

Rnd 8: Move each Increase st marker forward 3 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [64 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 9.

Rnd 9: Move each Increase st marker back 4 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next 5 sts] 8 times. [72 hdc]

Increase St Markers after being moved to start Rnd 10.

Rnd 10: Move each Increase st marker forward 4 sts from original marked st. [hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in marked st, move st marker to second st made in marked st, hdc in next st] 8 times. [80 hdc]

Step Down to finish Circle: Hdc in next st, 2 hdc next st, hdc next 2 sts, sc next st, slip st next 2 sts. Fasten off and weave in ending tail.

Note: If you are wanting to crochet larger circles you may need to experiment with the length of the step-down in for your final round.

Cooling off with Snowflakes

A New Snowflake Crochet Pattern and Coloring Page

For those of you living in the Northern hemisphere like myself, you may be feeling the August heat. The other day it was 103F in Boulder when I took my youngest to the check-in day at his middle school. We were very happy to escape back up the mountain where it was significantly cooler.

With the summer heat, this is a great time to be thinking about the cooler temperatures of winter time. Especially snowflakes. What better way to contemplate snowflakes than to crochet or color some?

In my last post I promised you a new snowflake pattern and coloring page. The written instructions are below, and for those of you that prefer stitch charts you will find the chart in my latest coloring page.

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

In the image above I used every blue color pencil I had to create a cool themed page full of snow. When you are coloring a page like this, where all the spaces to color are fairly small or thin, it is handy to use a really sharp pencil.

My favorite sharpener to keep with my color pencils is this duo one made by the Bostitch company. It is easy to control so I don’t over-sharpen my pencils and the duo hole option allows you to sharpen jumbo pencils as well as regular pencils. If you can’t find this sharpener locally click on the photo above and it will take you to where you can purchase it at Amazon.com.

This snowflake pattern creates a fairly solid snowflake. If you work the 4th round join-as-you-go, you can create a fun fabric of snowflakes. I’ve shared my method for this joining after the pattern below. My sample above was worked in Aunt Lydia Metallic #10 Cotton Crochet Thread with a 1.75mm hook.

If snowflakes aren’t your favorite thing, this pattern will also work well for making floral motifs to join together. I worked these floral motifs using worsted weight yarn in a variety of colors from my stash with a size I / 5.5 mm hook. I changed colors after Rnd 1 and 2, then completed the motif with my green color for Rnds 3 and 4. This is a great way to use up bits and pieces of yarn you have left over from other projects.

For this pattern I am not telling you what size thread or yarn to use, nor what size hook. I have instead shared what size hook and the thread or yarn I used. I strongly recommend that you make a couple of snowflake motifs with different hook sizes to find the result you like best with the yarn or thread you have selected.

The 3 snowflake motifs above were each crocheted with DMC Cebelia Crochet Cotton using a different size hook.

The motif on the left was made with a size 4/1.25 mm hook. This made for a fairly tight fabric, which would work well for attaching with glue or sewn as an embellishment on a card or gift box, it wouldn’t be good for stiffening with an PVA solution like “Stiffy” because the solution would tend to fill in the small spaces between the thread and stitch definition might be lost.

The motif in the center was made with a size 2/1.50 mm hook. The fabric is a little softer, but still has a lot of definition to it. It would work really well to sew to a stiff fabric base like a felted hat or bag. Could also work well as a sewn or glued embellishment for a card or gift box. If a PVA solution was brushed on it could be stiffened to hang as a stand-alone ornament. Slightly more space between the threads means the solution can penetrate further and not obscure the overall stitch definition.

The motif on the right was made with a size 0/1.75 mm hook. This fabric is very soft. This motif would work great to be sewn onto a loose knit or woven fabric like a shirt, stocking hat, or mittens. It is also ideal for blocking and stiffening to hang as a stand-alone ornament. The loose fabric will allow the PVA solution to be absorbed well into the fabric, there should be minimal loss of stitch definition.

COOL SNOWFLAKE MOTIF

Designed by Andee Graves

Special Stitches

(Beg CL) Beginning Cluster Stitch: Ch 2, [Yarn over (YO), insert hook in st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops on hook] 2 times, YO, pull thru 3 remaining loops on hook.

(CL) 3 DC Cluster Stitch: [Yarn over (YO), insert hook in st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops on hook] 3 times, YO, pull thru 4 remaining loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

This snowflake begins with an Adjustable slip knot. If you need help with this technique check out my YouTube video.

Instructions

Rnd 1: Starting with an adjustable slip knot, ch 4, {counts as first dc and center}, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, tighten center, slip st to top of beginning ch. [12 dc]

Rnd 2: Work a Beg CL in same st as join, [ch 3, CL in next st, ch 2, CL in next st] 5 times, ch 3, CL in next st, ch 2, slip st to top of Beg CL. [12 CL, 6 ch-3 sp, 6 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, skip next CL, sc in next ch-2 sp]6 times, slip st to first dc of rnd. [36 dc, 6 sc, 6 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts, skip next sc] 6 times, slip st to first sc of rnd. Fasten off [48 sc, 6 ch-2 sp]

Weave in all ends.

Join-as-you-Go method for making a fabric of Motifs

When working Rnd 4, at each point where you want to join your new motif to a finished motif, instead of chaining 2: ch 1, slip st in ch-2 sp of motif you are joining to, then ch 1 and continue working Rnd 4 on your current motif as needed to finish. The Chart above illustrates this joining method.

When you are joining where 2 motifs are already joined it can be a little tricky. You can try inserting your hook into the slip stitch that is already there, or slip stitch snugly around the join point. Just be consistent in how you do those joins and it will work out fine.

If you need help on how to to stiffen your snowflakes for ornaments, check out my blog post: Sparkling Ice Snowflake.