“Wraps for All Seasons” Blog Tour – Stop #2

Hi everyone. My book “Wraps for All Seasons” is going on a blog tour. We will be making 6 stops for this tour. Each of the bloggers will be giving away a copy of the book, so be sure to visit them to see what they have to share with you about my book.

kathy-lashley-elk-studio

Stop #2 is with the lovely Kathy Lashley of ELK Studio Handcrafted Crochet Designs. Kathy is not only a talented designer she is also a left-handed crocheter and is the teacher on “Learn to Crochet for Lefties” from the Annie’s folks.

sweet-roll-hat-project-by-kathy-lashley-elk-studio

Check out Kathy’s awesome hat pattern “Swirling Pebbles”. This hat is part of her Christmas Present CAL that she has put together to help her readers get a jump on holiday gift making. A quick project with a fun yarn that does all the color changing for you.

the-woodman-super-scarf-by-elk-studio

If you’ve been wanting to try out a pattern for a super scarf you’ll love her pattern for “The Woodman Super Scarf”. This design has a load of texture worked in 3 different colors of Red Heart Soft Yarn. Kathy chose Black, Charcoal and White for her sample, but with the wide range of colors in the Soft Yarn line you’ve got all sorts of options.

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The next stop for the “Wraps for All Seasons” blog tour will be next Friday, November 4th.

You can purchase my book at the Annie’s Craft Store or on Amazon.com.

“Wraps for All Seasons” Blog Tour – Stop #1

Hi everyone. My book “Wraps for All Seasons” is going on a blog tour. We will be making 6 stops for this tour. Each of the bloggers will be giving away a copy of the book, so be sure to visit them to see what they have to share with you about my book.

elena-hunt

The first stop on our blog tour is the lovely Elena Hunt of Beatrice Ryan Designs.

amazing-grace-blissful-slouchy

Elena is a talented designer and has lots of fun patterns available on her blog, like her “Amazing Grace Blissful Slouchy Hat”.  This design is part of her Amazing Grace series and you might recognize the fancy stitch pattern from the headband I crocheted awhile back.

Finished Headband on Model

That was from her “Amazing Grace Headband” pattern. You can find the whole series of Amazing Grace Patterns on her blog, just look at the top of the page for the tab to take you there.

effortless-poncho

And her “Effortless Chic Poncho”. The gorgeous striping came from the yarn Elena picked, Plymouth Encore Dynamo in Color #020. Beautiful and the yarn does the heavy lifting, so you get a relaxing time crocheting.

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The next stop for the “Wraps for All Seasons” blog tour will be next Friday, October 28th.

You can purchase my book at the Annie’s Craft Store or on Amazon.com.

It’s “I Love Yarn Day”!

Can you believe October is at the half way mark already? I know I’m finding it a big shocking.

But there are good things about reaching October 15th, the best being that it is “I Love Yarn” day. Of course I love yarn. Some members of my family might say I love it a bit too much, especially when it starts to take over the entire living room of our house.

Pile of Yarn

One of the ways folks are celebrating this day is by teaching other’s to play with yarn. Whether it is crocheting, knitting or weaving it is great fun to play with yarn. As you all know my favorite yarn craft is Crochet.

Later today I will have a video tutorial for my Fans & Lace Afghan Square up on my YouTube channel.  I like to make my annual Afghan Square a skill building project. Learning new tips and tricks when crocheting is one of my very favorite things about playing with yarn.  Passing those tips and tricks along to others is my next favorite.

In the Fans & Lace Afghan Square I played with making stitches in un-common ways like my “loose” slip stitch and my standing double crochet. I also worked stitches between stitches and into slip stitches.  The video uses a combination of stop motion animation and live action film to demonstrate everything you need to help you master these new skills.

It’s been taking me a little longer to cut it all together than expected. Of course I am running up against that corollary of Murphy’s Law, “If you are in a hurry, your technology will go on strike.” I’ve been having a bit of trouble with my computer and my camera deciding to be super slow.

Fingers crossed I will have everything sorted before my Saturday has run out of time.

*Update Saturday, October 15, 2016 6:45p.m. Sadly the video is not going to happen today. My computer ate all the work I had done on it the past 2 days, so it will be either Tuesday or Wednesday of next week before it goes up. Thanks for your patience.*

 

Changing Color, Changing the Look

We are going to have some more fun with my “Fans & Lace Afghan Square” today.

fans-n-lace-square-3-andee-graves-m2h-designs

When I first designed this square I picked out 3 colors that I thought looked nice together and began to crochet. But you don’t have to stick to just 3 colors. I thought I would show you some other fun things you can do with this square by using more colors or even changing when you change colors.

flas-2-colors-a

For this version of my square I used only 2 colors changing color where indicated in the pattern.

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In this square I used the same 2 colors, but started with the silver instead of the blue. I also changed colors every round after working the first 2 rounds. Notice the fun zig-zag effect created with the V-stitch rounds.

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I was inspired by Tamara’s square (Mooglyblog.com) she worked from my pattern. She used 6 colors working with the changes where I wrote them except in Round 12. I loved the orange zig-zag around her square and decided to play with that in some of my squares.

flas-4-colors

I also played with using 4 colors. Not sure how happy I am with how this square came out, but I do like the autumn colors in it.

flas-8-colors

In the pattern I have you fasten off your yarn and join with a new yarn color 7 times. If you wanted, you could use 8 different colors, like I did in the square shown above. This is a great way to use up scraps of leftover yarn in your work-basket.

To help you decide if you have enough yarn I have listed the 8 sections and the yardage each needs. I broke out the yardage for the individual rounds in the last 3 sections, in case you want to use a different color in each round. These were the yardages I used with Lion Brand Yarns “Vanna’s Choice” and a size I (5.5mm) hook. I’ve rounded the yardage up from the fractions so that you should have a little wiggle room.

If your gauge is very different from mine listed in the pattern you may have to adjust accordingly.

Rounds 1 & 2:  4 yards

Round 3:  2 yards

Round 4:  12 yards

Round 5:  4 yards

Round 6:  14 yards

Rounds 7 & 8: 26 yards  (Round 7: 10 yards, Round 8: 16 yards)

Rounds 9 & 10: 34 yards   (Round 9: 14 yards, Round 10: 20 yards)

Rounds 11 & 12: 42 yards   (Round 11: 18 yards, Round 12: 24 yards)

Now it is your turn to dive in and play with color. Be sure to stop by the blog this Saturday as it will be “I Love Yarn” day and I’ll be celebrating with a fun give-away and a video tutorial for the Fans & Lace Afghan Square.

Working the Standing DC Stitch

fans-n-lace-sq-closeup-andee-graves-m2h-designs

In my Fans & Lace Afghan Square I started a number of the rounds with the “Standing Double Crochet Stitch”. Some of you may not know this stitch, so I wanted to share a little photo tutorial with tips on working it.

I like the standing dc for starting a new color instead of fastening on the new yarn color with a slip stitch, then chaining 3 to be the first dc. I have used the chain 3 method in the Fans & Lace square too, but only for when I am not changing the color in the next round.

standing-dc-1

To start a standing double crochet, make a slip knot in your new yarn color and place the loop over the shaft of your hook.

standing-dc-2

Yarn over on the shaft of the hook like you would do for working any double crochet in a project. Use you thumb or forefinger to keep the yarn over from twisting away.

standing-dc-3

Insert your hook into the stitch or space where you want to make your first double crochet.

standing-dc-4

Yarn over and pull up a loop. 3 loops on the shaft of your hook.

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Yarn over, pull thru 2 of the loops on your hook. 2 loops left on hook.

standing-dc-6

Yarn over, pull thru the last 2 loops on your hook. You’ve made your double crochet stitch and attached your new color of yarn in one go. Continue crocheting as normal.

When you are working rounds that end with a slip stitch join there is a little trick that I like to use for working into the standing dc.

standing-dc-7

Insert your hook into the standing dc and pull the tail to get the slip knot (yellow arrow) below your hook, complete your slip stitch.

standing-dc-8

The completed slip stitch (purple arrow) should sit in front of the knot (yellow arrow) of your standing dc.

fans-n-lace-sq-closeup-andee-graves-m2h-designs

In Round 4 of the Fans & Lace Square I started the round with a standing dc as part of a cluster stitch. You could call this a “Standing Cluster”.  In a cluster stitch the base of the double crochets being used are worked first, then the last step pulls thru all the top loops of those stitches to bind them together.

standing-cl-1

I start the cluster with my slip knot loop  and a yarn-over on the shaft of my hook, then insert the hook into the space where I will work the cluster (just like I did for the standing dc).

standing-cl-2

Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).

standing-cl-3

Yarn over and pull thru 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook).

standing-cl-4

Yarn over, insert into space again (3 loops on hook).

standing-cl-5

Yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).

standing-cl-6

Yarn over, pull thru 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook).

standing-cl-7

Yarn over, insert into space a 3rd time (4 loops on hook).

standing-cl-8

Yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).

standing-cl-9

Yarn over, pull thru 2 loops on hook (4 loops on hook).

standing-cl-10

Yarn over, pull thru all 4 remaining loops.

completed-cluster

Cluster stitch completed.

If you haven’t seen the pattern for my Fans & Lace Afghan Square you can find it by clicking here.

Fans & Lace Afghan Square

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October 13, 2016: Hello dear readers and new visitors just a little update to this post.

Happy Birthday to Me! I’m 21 today! No, not 21 years old, my Fans & Lace Afghan Square is block #21 in the 2016 Moogly Afghan CAL.

If you hadn’t heard about the Moogly Afghan CAL it’s not too late to join the fun. You can hop on over to Mooglyblog.com to get all the details and see Tamara’s interpretation of my square.

My video tutorial “Fans & Lace Square – Part 1” for this pattern will be is up on my YouTube Channel this Saturday.

Thank you so much to Veronique HoRaive for providing a French Translation of this pattern, you can find the PDF of the pattern here. fans-and-lace-afghan-square-french-1

Check out today’s blog post to find for some fun ideas on playing with color choices and the number of colors used in the square. “Changing Color, Changing the Look”.

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It’s October again and the first week has gone flying by! I’ve less than a week before I celebrate my birthday, but I thought I would get an early start with my present to all my lovely readers.

fans-n-lace-square-3-andee-graves-m2h-designs

This is my newest afghan square. I was playing with changing the height of stitches within the rounds. This is a skill building pattern with techniques that some may find challenging. Next week I’ll have a video on my YouTube channel that will walk you thru the pattern and the tricky bits.

I worked my sample square with just 3 colors, but you can use fewer or more than that. Next week I will also have a post showing you how changing the number of colors and when you change colors can dramatically change the appearance of your square.

FANS & LACE AFGHAN SQUARE

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size:

12” square

Materials:

Yarn

Worsted wt (Sample uses Lion Brand Yarns “Vanna’s Choice” 100% Acrylic (5 oz/142g, 251 yd/230 m)

Color A: #142 Rose (sample used approximately 52 yards)

Color B: #101 Pink (sample used approximately 48 yards)

Color C: #146 Dusty Purple (sample used approximately 38 yards)

Hook

I / 5.5mm

Notions

Yarn/tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge

First 2 rounds of pattern = 2” across square

Pattern Notes

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. *If you haven’t ever used an Adjustable Slip Knot this video shows you how.

Round 2 specifies “sl st loosely”, this means work the indicated slip stitches similar to a chain stitch and do not pull the working loop to tighten them as in a joining slip stitch. You will be working into those loose slip stitches in Round 3.

Special Stitches and Abbreviations

(Standing dc) Standing Double Crochet: make slip knot in yarn and place loop snugly on shaft of hook, yo, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook] 2 times. If substituting for a chain start of a round, do not work the first 3 chains of the round instructions.

(3dc Dec) 3 double crochet decrease: YO, insert hook in first st, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops, [YO insert hook in next st, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops] 2 times, YO pull thru all remaining loops on hook.

(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Fan) 10 Treble Fan: (5 Tr, ch 1, 5 Tr) in indicated st or sp.

(CL) 3 double crochet Cluster: [YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops] 3 times, YO pull thru remaining loops on hook.

(8TrShl) 8 Treble Shell: (4 Tr, ch 1, 4 Tr) in indicated st or sp.

(GrnShl) Granny Shell: 3 dc worked in indicated st or sp.

Instructions

Rnd 1: Starting with Color A, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, sl st to top of beginning ch-4. Gently pull beginning tail to tighten center. [12 dc]

Rnd 2:  [Sl st loosely before next dc in space between stitches, ch 3, 3dcDec worked across next 3 sts, ch 3] 4 times, sl st tightly into first loose sl st. Fasten off. [4 3dc dec, 8 ch-3 sps]

Rnd 3:  Change to Color B. (Standing dc, ch 1, dc) in any loose sl st, {counts as first V-st}, [*ch 2, skip ch-3 sp, (sc, ch 3 sc) in top of Dec, ch 2, skip ch-3 sp,* V-st next sl st] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, sl st to first V-st. Fasten off. [8 sc, 8 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-3 sps, 4 V-sts]

Rnd 4:  Change to Color C. Begin as with Standing dc, YO, insert hook into ch-1 sp of any V-st in Rnd 3, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru 2 loops on hook, [YO, insert hook in same ch-1 sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops] 2 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook {counts as first CL}, [*skip 4 sts, Fan in next ch-3 sp, skip 4 sts,* CL in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, sl st to beginning CL. Fasten off. [4 CL, 4 Fans]

Rnd 5:  Change to Color B. Standing dc in any CL from Rnd 4, ch 1, dc in same st {counts as first V-st},[*ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 3, skip 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, skip 2 sts, sc next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts,* V-st next st] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, sl st to first V-st of round. Fasten off. [16 sc, 4 V-sts, 12 ch-3 sps, 8 ch-2 sps]

Rnd 6:  Change to Color A. Standing dc in ch-1 sp of any V-st in Rnd 5, [ch 1, dc] 2 times in same ch-1 sp, [*skip ch 2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next sc, skip 1 ch-3 sp, 8Tr Shl in next ch-3 sp, skip next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next sc, skip next ch-2 sp,* ({dc, ch 1} 2 times, dc) in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, sl st to first dc of Rnd. Fasten off. [28 dc, 32 Tr, 12 ch-1 sp, 8 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 7:  Change to Color C. Standing dc in first ch-1 sp in direction of work from corner ch-1 sp, dc in same ch-1 sp, skip one st, 2 dc next ch-1 sp, [*skip 2 sts, GrnShl in next ch-2 sp, skip 2 sts, GrnShl next st, skip 2 sts, (GrnShl, ch 2, GrnShl) in next ch-1 sp, skip 2 sts, GrnShl next st, skip 2 sts, GrnShl in next ch-2 sp, skip 2 sts,* {2 dc in next ch-1 sp} 2 times] 3 times, Rep from * to * once, sl st to first dc of Rnd. [24 GrnShl, 16 dc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 8:  Ch 3 {counts as dc}, *dc in each st along side until reach corner ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp,* Rep from * to * until work last corner of square, dc in each st until reach first dc of Rnd, sl st to first dc. Fasten off. [104 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {26 dc each side}]

Rnd 9:  Change to Color A. (Standing dc, ch 1, dc) in 12th dc in direction of work from ch-2 corner sp, {counts as first V-st}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st next st,* Rep from * to * until 2 dc remain before corner ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in corner ch-2 sp] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts are left before first V-st of Rnd, skip 2 sts, sl st to first st of V-st. [40 V-st, 4 ch-2 sp {10 V-st each side}]

Rnd 10: (Loosely sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp {counts as first GrnShl}, [*GrnShl in ch-1 sp of each V-st* until reach ch-2 sp at corner, (dc, ch 2, dc) in corner ch-2 sp] 4 times, Rep from * to * until reach first GrnShl of Rnd, sl st to first st of GrnShl. Fasten off. [40 Gr Shl, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {10 GrnShl each side}]

Rnd 11: Change to Color B. (Standing dc, ch 1, dc) in middle st of any GrnShl along a side {counts as first V-st}, [*V-st in middle st of each GrnShl *until work in last GrnShl before corner ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in corner ch-2 sp] 4 times, Rep from * to * until reach first V-st of Rnd, sl st to first st of V-st. [48 V-st, 4 ch-2 sp {12 V-st each side}]

Rnd 12: Repeat Rnd 10. [48 GrnShl, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {12 GrnShl each side}]

Finishing

Weave in tails and block.

Picking colors for Free Form Crochet

Pile of Yarn from Scotts Bluff Valley Fiber Arts Fair
Pile of Yarn from Scotts Bluff Valley Fiber Arts Fair

Remember all that yarn I brought back with me from the Scotts Bluff Valley Fiber Arts Fair? I’m putting some of it together with other yarn from my stash to make a free form crochet scrumble.

When I made my first free form scrumble years ago I thought it would be an easy way to use up left-over odds and ends from my stash. That was when I discovered that one of the trickiest things about free form, is picking the colors of yarn to use together. I wasn’t all that happy with my first scrumbles, but I was intrigued enough to persist.

hank-ready-to-go

 

A great short cut for choosing colors is to pick out a multi-colored yarn that appeals to you, then match it with solid yarns in the colors that are in the variegated yarn. This is exactly what I did to begin this project. I used this hand-dyed yarn as my guide for picking the other colors.

If you are like me, a large percentage of your yarn stash is dominated by a couple of colors. In my case I have lots of Purples and blues. I purchased the hand-dyed hank of yarn knowing that I would have other yarns in my stash that would work with it. If you don’t already have a variegated yarn you want to use in your free-form project, look at your stash for color inspiration before purchasing one.

yarns-for-ff-project

In the end you want a variety of shades as well as colors for your yarn choices. I looked at lighter and darker variations of the colors in my variegated yarn. Like the very deep blue in the furry yarn, that deep color and texture will add some interesting effects to the final fabric. The bright Lime will create contrasting pops.

Hopefully I’ll have some pretty Free Form scrumbles to show you in the next couple of weeks.

My New Book!

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Well, I’ve been mostly quiet about this project, waiting for the book to actually be available. You can purchase it now on the Annie’s Craft Store, online here.

Pile of Swatches

I’ll be telling you a lot more about this book and my inspiration and processes creating these designs over the next couple of months. You might recall this teaser shot of swatches from last Autumn. That was the beginning of this book.

For now, I’ll just leave you with some eye-candy of the designs so beautifully photographed by the folks at Annie’s.

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Modifying a Pattern

daisies-in-vals-garden
Daisies in Val’s Garden

My friend Val and I get together most Tuesday mornings to crochet and visit. This Tuesday she was determined to finish up some small projects that she had in her basket. One of those projects was a headband she was making from my “Springtime Headband” pattern.

headband-open

She wanted the headband to be adjustable, so I came up with a modification to add a button band and buttons to it. We were both pleased with how the finished headband looked and Val was really happy to have one of her projects completed.

Blog Headband alone

 

I thought some of my readers might enjoy using this modification as well. I’m posting the changes we made. The original pattern can be found on my “Crochet and Springtime” post from March 2015. The post also includes a photo tutorial on making cluster and puff stitches.

buttoned-up

SPRINGTIME HEADBAND w/BUTTONS

modifications and design by Andee Graves 

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Headband is approximately 3.25”/8.125cm wide x 23”/55cm long.

YARN

Worsted weight yarn – approximately 35g or 82 yards

Val was using Lion Brand Yarns, Vanna’s Choice, I used Lion Brand Yarns, Wool-ease for my original project.

CROCHET HOOKS

Size US 7 / (4.5mm)

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS

2 – buttons 3/4 inch diameter

Stitch markers

Yarn needle

GAUGE

6 rows & 9 sts in hdc = 2” 

SPECIAL STITCHES

3 DC Cluster Stitch (Cl): (Yo, insert hook into indicated st or sp, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, yo, pull thru 4 loops remaining on hook.

Puff Stitch (Puff): (Yo, insert hook into indicated st or sp, yo, pull up a loop to desired height) 5 times, 11 loops on hook, yo, pull thru 10 loops on hook, 2 loops left on hook, yo, pull thru remaining 2 loops on hook.

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): Yo, insert hook into indicated st or sp, yo pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo pull up a loop, yo pull thru all 4 loops on hook.

V-Stitch (V-st): (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

NOTES

The Cluster stitches and Puff stitches in this project have more texture because they are “squished” between 2 shorter stitches. The texture is created on the back of the rows. The finished project will have the textured side as the right side of the fabric.

Once the first 65 rows of the headband are crocheted button band row is added and edging is worked all the way around with the right side of fabric facing you.

INSTRUCTIONS

For the buttoned version of this headband work Rows 1 – 65 in original pattern.

 

 

Button Band:

buttonband-reading-sts

Row 66: Turn, DO NOT CHAIN, sc in first st, ch 2 (counts as first dc), *sk 1 st, V-st next st, sk 1 st, dc next st, Repeat from * once. [3 dc, 2 V-st]

buttonband-st-diagram

EDGING 

Ch 1, with RS facing turn band to work along first long edge, *work sc spaced evenly along edge in ends of rows (3 sc in the ends of the every 2 rows), ch 2, turn to work along end of headband, sc in next 9 sts, ch 2*, turn to work along second long edge, Repeat from * to *, sl st to first sc in round.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block lightly, if desired.  Sew buttons to right side (textured side) to align with openings in V-sts.

With the colder weather we are beginning to have up here on the mountain it is time to have some extra layers of warmth handy when I’m walking the dog or taking the boys to school. I may be putting an ear warming headband in the glovebox of my car, just in case.

They are also great quick gift projects for those of you thinking about your holiday gift-giving lists.

 

Pretty and Easy Foundation

length-of-fndtn

A foundation that I have been playing with a lot lately uses a “stack” of alternating single and double crochet rows. I don’t really have a name for it other than Stacked Foundation.

Update May 16, 2017: I’ve decided to refer to this foundation as the Stacked Rows Foundation. I now have a video on my YouTube Channel demonstrating both the single crochet rows version and the scalloped version that alternates single crochet and double crochet rows.

chain-2

As I’ve said before, I love “small start” crochet projects. You can’t get much smaller than this start, typically I start with chaining 2, then working in the second chain from the hook. The fun part is I can use it for a long foundation, like the long top edge of a shawl or wrap, it could even work for an afghan. The stitch spacing of the first row in the project is the deciding factor for using this foundation.

A few of my testers have had a hard time understanding the foundation. So I thought it would be helpful to do a blog post especially about this foundation.

Right Angle Wrap Photo courtesy of Annie's Publishing/Crochet! Magazine
Right Angle Wrap
Photo courtesy of Annie’s Publishing/Crochet! Magazine

If you have crocheted my design “Right Angle Wrap”, that first appeared in the “Crochet! Magazine” July 2011 issue, you may see some similarity to that foundation. For that design I used stacked rows of single crochet stitches. I came up with this foundation because so many folks had complained to me about the foundation single crochet (fsc) that I liked to use. I found that working rows of 1 stitch could create a flexible foundation that was rather prettier along the “raw” edge than the typical fsc.

length-of-fndtn-scallops

For this latest foundation I am using stacked rows that alternate single and double crochet stitches. Again these are just very short rows of 1 stitch. Because you need a chain 3 to get to the correct height of your double crochet stitch, there is a lovely subtle scalloped look to one side of the foundation.

length-of-fndtn-row-1-wrk-pts

The first row of the project is worked off the opposite side from the chain 3s, into the single crochets. The bright blue dots indicate where your hook is inserted to work the first row of the project once the foundation is finished.

work-sc-in-2nd-ch-from-hook

To start, make a regular slip knot and chain 2. Insert hook under the top leg and back bump of the second chain from the hook.

completed-1st-sc

Make a single crochet stitch.

ch-3-4th-v-from-hook

Chain 3, turn to work a double crochet stitch into the top of the previous single crochet. If you are having a difficult time locating the top of the single crochet stitch, count to the 4th V from your hook, that is the top of your stitch.

insert-hook-front-to-back

The Vs should be pointing away from your hook before you insert the hook. You always want to insert the hook from front to back (or right to left when looking at the Vs pointing downward) for your stitches in this foundation. Finish your double crochet stitch.

ch-1-for-next-sc-row

Next you’ll chain 1 for your single crochet row. Again look at the Vs to locate the top of your double crochet stitch on the previous row. You will work into the second V.

I’ll continue alternating single and double crochet rows until I reach the length I want for my foundation. Typically I begin and end this foundation with a single crochet row.

swatch-of-v-sts-on-stacked-fndtn

This is a great foundation to use for my favorite stitch pattern: V-stitches. I skip the double crochets and work a V-stitch in each of the single crochets. This sample is a simple swatch of rows, usually when I incorporate this foundation I am working an increase at each end, but it works this way as well.

I’ll be re-visiting this foundation in a number of my patterns over the next year. Hopefully this will help everyone understand how to crochet it.