Floating Star Afghan Block Pattern

Happy Birthday to me! Again! That means it is time for an Afghan Block pattern in celebration of another trip around the sun! My block is #21 in the 2022 Moogly Afghan CAL too. You can find out more about the CAL and the links to the other blocks over on Mooglyblog.com. Check out what Tamara did with my block on her post about Block #21.

I had a lot of fun creating this block, especially since I was doing my favorite style of design where I go from 1 shape to another. In this block that is Round to Square. I’ve labeled the different parts of the pattern to help you stay on track when working your square.

I’ll have this pattern as an ad-free PDF with stitch charts available for sell on Ravelry.com at the end of November if you prefer that format.

Floating Star Afghan Block

designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size:  12” square

Materials:

Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

Color A: #1304 Santorini – Rnds 1-3, 13-14 (used 18.1 g / 34 yds)

Color B: #1502 Iced Aqua – Rnds 4-5, 8-12 (used 29.4 g / 55 yds)

Color C: #1101 Eggshell – Rnds 6 -7 (used 9.9 g / 18 yds)

Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge

Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge First 3.5 rounds of pattern = 4” across diameter

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.

(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.

(PM) Place Marker

(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Ch 3 picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop and top side loop of previous stitch, slip stitch tightly.

(Fan) Pointed Fan Stitch: (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Standing dc) Standing double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] 2 times.

(Standing hdc) Standing half double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

(Standing BPdc) Standing Back Post double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double stitch.

(BPTr) Back Post Treble: YO twice, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard treble stitch.

(BPdc) Back Post double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double crochet stitch.

(BPhdc) Back Post half double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard half double crochet stitch.

Pattern Notes:

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.

Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.

All rounds are joined with a tight slip stitch to the indicated stitch or chain.

Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. After Rnd 8, stitch counts along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count and do not include corner chain spaces.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in 4th chain from hook, join {see pattern notes} to top of beg ch. [12 dc]

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 4 {counts as first dc and ch-1 sp}, [dc in next st, ch 1] 11 times, join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4.  [12 dc, 12 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 3 (RS): (sl st, ch 3 {counts as first dc}, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 11 times, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color A. [36 dc]

Rnd 4 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing dc in 2nd dc of a 3 dc group, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st},  [ch 1, skip 2 sts, V-st in next st] 11 times, ch 1, join to first dc of rnd. [12 V-st, 12 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in first dc of next V-st, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st] 11 times, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color B [60 dc]

Rnd 6 (RS): Attach Color C with Standing dc in center dc that was worked in a ch-1 sp of Rnd 4 V-st, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in sp before next dc, skip 2 sts,* V-st in next dc] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first dc of rnd. [24 V-sts]

Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp of first V-st, [*skip 2 sts, Fan in ch-1 sp of next V-st, skip 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next V-st] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first sc of rnd. Fasten off Color C. [12 Fans, 12 sc]

Round to Square

Rnd 8 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing BPdc around post of first dc of a Fan, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,

[ch 1, *skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc next st, BPTr next st, skip next sc, BPTr next st, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,* ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, BPdc each of next 2 sts, BPhdc next st] 3 times, ch 1, Rep * to * once, ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, join to first BPdc of rnd.  PM in ch-3 sps to mark 4 corners. [16 BPTr, 32 BPdc, 24 BPhdc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-3 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, join to first sc of rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 48 sc, 8 loose sl st, 8 hdc, 32 dc] {24 sts per side}

Rnd 10 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in next st of Rnd 9, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made,

dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in each of next 3 sts of Rnd 9] 4 times, join to first sc of Rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 40 sc, 16 hdc, 56 dc]  {28 sts per side}

Square Rounds to 12”

Rnd 11 (WS): Turn, (sc, ch 1) in first st {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in marked ch sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join to first hdc.  [120 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {30 sts per side}

Rnd 12 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in marked ch sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. [128 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {32 sts per side}

Rnd 13 (WS): With WS facing attach Color A with Standing hdc to any st on side, Rep Rnd 11. [136 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {34 sts per side}

Rnd 14 (RS): Rep Rnd 12. Fasten off.  [144 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {36 sts per side}

Finishing

Weave in tails and block. When pinning out to block it is helpful to pin points of star to lay flat and then gently steam to make them lay down on the surface of the block.

For those of you that may be wondering why the blog has been so quiet, I have been a busy little bee working on lots of freelance designs for various publications. I’ll share more about those designs once they are published. I’ve also been working away on developing more classes to teach at local shops, fiber festivals and hopefully online soon.

Thanks for stopping by.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

I’m participating in the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. Come join the fun! 28 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, and sewing projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week will have a theme.

Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens
Week 2 (July 8-14): Women
Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone
Week 4 (July 22-28): Home
Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets

We’ve also partnered with some of our favorite companies to get some great prizes for you. Find out more information about participating designers, the schedule, and how to enter to win the prizes on Underground Crafter. The deadline for entering the giveaway is Thursday, August 4, 2022 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.

How To Join the 2022 Christmas in July Make Along

  • You can join in by crocheting, knitting, sewing, or making the projects as you have time.
  • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CIJMakeAlong2022 on all social media.
  • If you’d like to chat with other crafters, join the Underground Crafters Facebook group
  • By the end of the Make Along, you’ll have up to 31 awesome projects. Get ready for the handmade holiday season while having fun with us!

Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along post as it is released.

Today I am sharing with you my pattern for making the “Cuddlebug Pet Bed”. As many of you know my old dog Kenna left us for her journey over the Rainbow Bridge back in early February. We found a very young dog (10 months old) at the Humane Society of Boulder in late February.

This is Daisy Mae, she has completely stolen our hearts. She is a super sweet doggie, but she can be pretty destructive with her chewing overnight. So she stays in her kennel while we are all sleeping. I decided to make a new bed pad for her kennel to spoil her. Yes it may get chewed on, though she has been pretty good with her kennel bedding so far.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

This project is also about using up scrap yarn and re-use of other materials I had around the house. You can use any scraps of worsted weight yarn you have on hand to make your own pet bed. I recommend using acrylic yarns as they can be machine washed with ease. You’ll be using 4 strands of yarn together, so you won’t have to worry about weaving in tails except at the beginning and end of the project.

I cut up a piece of foam padding that was part of an old folding futon we had in my youngest kiddo’s room. The cover of the futon had been destroyed in one section, but the foam was still in decent shape. I measured the kennel and then used an old bread knife to saw the foam to the size I needed.

You can adjust the size of the pet bed pattern for your pet. You just need to know the size of the rectangle you want the final bed to be.

Draw out your rectangle on the foam you are using, if not using foam then draw your rectangle size on an appropriate size sheet of paper. Find the center of the rectangle along the length. See photo above.

Then draw 45 degree lines from the corners intersecting the center line.

The length between the intersections is the length you need your foundation to be (see photo above). Crochet the stacked rows foundation to that length. You need an even number of stitches for the foundation, so add 1 row to foundation if needed to get an even number.

Cuddlebug Pet Bed

Designed by Andee Graves

SKILL LEVEL: Easy

FINISHED SIZE:  31 x 19 x 4 inches (77.5 x 47.5 x 10 cm)

YARN:

Caron “One Pound” (100% Acrylic; 812 yds / 16 oz, 742 m / 453.6 g)

Project used approximately 2850 yards of yarn.

CROCHET HOOK: US N/P (10 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS:

Yarn needle, Stitch markers, 4 – 1 inch buttons

GAUGE:  In Up & Down Stitch pattern:  7.5 stitches 7 rows = 4″ (10 cm)

SPECIAL STITCHES

Up & Down Stitch: Alternates single crochet stitches worked into double crochet stitches, and double crochet stitches worked into single crochet stitches.

PATTERN NOTES

This project is crocheted holding 4 strands of yarn together the whole time. It is is a great way to use up scraps, when one strand gets close to running out, overlap the new strand about 8 – 10 inches and continue crocheting. Both the ending strand and new strand will be caught up in the body of the stitches. No weaving in ends except at the end and beginning of your project.

The bed is worked center out in the round from a long stacked rows foundation as a large rectangle in up & down stitch (also known as Grit or Griddle stitch). The first round of the sides is work as front post single crochet to make a sharp turn along the top edge. Then rounds are worked in single crochet to get to the height of the foam being used to stuff the bed.

A second rectangle is worked for the bottom of the bed, then sewn to the last round of the sides, leaving one end open. Buttons are sewn along the bottom piece at the opening and chain loops are attached to the side to close the open end.

Tip: Mark the beginning stitch of the round to help you find it at the end of round. Every round should start with single crochet.

INSTRUCTIONS

Bed Top

Stacked Rows Foundation

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in previous row sc.

Row 3 – 20: Rep Row 2.

Turn to work into the sides of the Stacked Rows Foundation stitches.

Rnd 1:  Ch 1,  sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from * to * until reaching end of foundation, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work in end of foundation, sc & dc in end, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work along opposite side of stacked rows foundation, Repeat from * to * beginning in first st until reaching end of foundation, ch 1, turn 90 degrees to work in end of row, sc & dc in end of row, ch 1, turn 90 degrees, join with slip st to first st of Rnd PM in corner ch-1 sps.  (22 dc, 22 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, *(sc, ch 1, dc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made,  sc in dc, dc in sc until reach next marked ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (26 dc, 26 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn, [*sc in dc, dc in sc* until reach marked ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, sc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, join with sl st to first st of round. (30 dc, 30 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 4: : Ch 1, turn, [*sc in dc, dc in sc* until reach marked ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, dc) in marked sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, repeat from * to * until reach end of Rnd, join with sl st to first st of round. (34 dc, 34 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnds 5 – 16: Alternate repeating Rnd 3 and Rnd 4.  (Rnd 16: 82 dc, 82 sc, 4 ch-1 sp)

Rnd 17: Ch 1, turn, [FPsc in each st until reach marked ch-1 sp, skip marked sp, remove st marker] 4 times, FPsc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (164 FPsc)

Rnd 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st until reach beginning of Rnd, join with slip st to first st of Rnd. (164 sc)

Rnds 19 – 23: Rep Rnd 18. Fasten off at end of Rnd 23.

Bed Bottom

Repeat Foundation and Rnds 1 – 15 from Bed Top. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends.

Sew Bed Bottom Round 15 stitches to top of Bed Top Rnd 24 stitches using a whip stitch. Leave one short end of bed open. Chain 15 with 1 strand of yarn and H (5mm) hook to make button loops. Attach button loops to last round of Bed Top along opening.  Sew buttons on Bed bottom aligning with button loops.

Warm up your Hands

Cold fingers might not be your biggest concern right now, it is summer time here in the US currently. But fingerless mitts are a fun project to crochet in the summer as they are a quick and small. I love to crochet fingerless mitts as they don’t take a lot of fuss or yarn. You can get as fancy as you want or use a show stopping yarn and let it be the star of your project.

c2009 Red Heart

The first design I had published was a fingerless mitt project for Red Heart Yarn in sock weight yarn that was published in October 2009. You can still find that pattern on the Yarnspirations website.

This July I’ll be teaching my “Warm up your Hands (Crocheting Fingerless Mitts)” class at the CGOA Chain Link Conference in New Orleans. This class will get introduce you to the tricks for making fingerless mitts that will be a stretchy fun layer to wear alone or over commercial gloves.

In class you will make a cuff with a thumb opening worked in DK/light worsted yarn that allows for practicing the techniques needed for making fingerless mitts of any size. You will leave with patterns for full size mitts in sock weight yarn and dk/light worsted yarn.

You’ll learn working in the round with and without turning (and why those make a difference in your fabric). Simple shaping in a tube. How to crochet ribbing that has great elasticity. Modifications to the pattern for making the mitts larger or smaller.  Working 2 at a time when crocheting a pair of anything. Finishing tips and tricks for a polished appearance to your completed project.

You can register for this class at the CGOA website by clicking here.

Slippers that Fit!

Human beings come in a lot of sizes and shapes and our feet even more so. That leaves the question of getting slippers and other foot coverings to fit properly. Historically foot wear was made to fit the individual and out of materials that were somewhat malleable. Leather and wool being two of the most commonly used.

This summer you can take a class with me at the CGOA Chain Link conference and learn all the tips and tricks you need to crochet slippers that will always fit. You don’t even need to be a wizard at math to get great fitting results.

As part of the class you will create a paper pattern to use for sizing your slipper and you will get the full pattern for my “One Skein Joy Slippers”, along with all the information you need for modifying the size of the slipper. You will also learn how to adjust the pattern to work with different weights of yarn so you can “stash bust” when making slippers.

You can register for this class at the CGOA website by clicking here.

Wrapped in Crochet

Summer is just around the corner and it’s time to make something special to wrap around your shoulders when you need a bit of warmth in the air conditioning or to ward off the chilly breeze when walking on the beach.

My latest design the “Pavona Wrap” for “I Like Crochet” is an ideal pretty layer to make for yourself or as a gift. Crocheted in Universal Yarns “Bamboo Pop” the combination of cotton and bamboo rayon is cool against your skin when temperatures start to climb, but provides just a touch of warmth when needed.

The wrap used a semi-solid lace pattern in the main body with open lace stripes on the ends to add a strong graphic finish. It is crocheted in 2 pieces off of a central foundation.

You can find the pattern on at ILikeCrochet.com in the June 2022 issue of their online magazine.

Spring Time is Here!

It is feeling like spring here in Colorado and next week is Interweave YarnFest! It has been a long time for all of us waiting to be together safely again. I’m so excited to be teaching my 3 workshops and looking forward to see other fiber enthusiasts in person. Online registration for workshops closes tomorrow, April 13th so make sure to grab your spot.

The morning of April 20th I’ll be teaching “Needle Felt a Curly Sheep Pin” from 9 a.m. to Noon. This workshop is perfect for those that love sheep motifs and fiber. If you have ever wanted to try out needle felting this is the perfect class for you. The workshop kit contains everything you need to make the Curly Sheep Pin, so you only have to bring yourself. I’ll be providing surfaces for folks to work on during the workshop and at the end of 3 hours you will have a cute pin to wear (or magnet for your fridge)

That afternoon I’ll be teaching “Stitch Chart Bootcamp” from 1:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. If you have always been mystified by crochet stitch charts this is the workshop for you. You’ll learn all the things to look for to decipher stitch charts and will be crocheting from stitch charts alone by the end of the workshop. I’ll also be showing you the different symbols from other countries so you can work from those stitch charts even if you don’t understand the accompanying text.

The morning of April 21st I’ll be teaching “Needle Felting in 3D” from 9 a.m. to Noon. This is the workshop to take if you want to take your needle felting to the next level. Wool is a wonderful medium to use for sculpture. Once you know some basic tips and tricks you can make all sorts of fun pieces as toys, jewelry or decorations. The class kit will have all sorts of materials for you to try out the techniques I’ll be teaching. I will be providing felting surfaces for students to use during the workshop.

There are seats available in all my workshops, so if you have been waiting to register for one of them now is a great time to do it. Online registration closes April 13th CLICK HERE TO REGISTER. If you purchase a workshop ticket, you will automatically receive a FREE 3-day marketplace ticket and tote bag {Limit one per customer}.  All the booths in the marketplace are filled up and going to be showcasing lots of yarn and fiber goodies for your shopping pleasure.

Make sure to say “Hi” if you are going to be at YarnFest.

All My Love Heart Crochet Pattern

I hope your Valentine’s Day is full of love and joy. To help you celebrate I have created this fun little crochet pattern and a new coloring page.

This blog post contains affiliate links

Colorful coloring page with a variety of heart shapes and 1 large heart with crochet stitch chart of heart pattern. 5 crocheted hearts in yellow, blue, fuschia, pale pink and teal surround the page. Background is light oak wooden surface.

The PDF of the coloring page can be downloaded from my blog, I have also included it as the 3rd page of the PDF version of the “All My Love Heart” pattern available in my Ravelry Shop.

2 pieces of paper laying on a light oak wooden surface. The piece on top left side is the coloring page filled in with bright colors, the piece on bottom right is the page with just the line drawing of coloring page.

I colored my page with my Staedler Noris Club colored pencils. I have found these to be a great inexpensive pencil for coloring. I also really like the Anti-Breaking System these pencils have. I can get super sharp points without losing chunks of the lead.

All My Love Heart Motif Pattern

This little heart is a great way to add some love to your crochet projects, or work a bunch up in a variety of colors to decorate handmade cards.  Needing only a little over 8 yards of worsted weight yarn to make, they are a prefect way to use up those bits of yarn scraps.

5 Crocheted hearts in different colors.

by Andee Graves

Skill level:  Intermediate Stitches Used: Slip Stitch, Chain, Single Crochet, Double Crochet, Picot

Materials

Yarn  & Hook: Worsted Weight yarn with Size H (5 mm) Hook. Samples in photo are made with Berroco Ultra Wool worsted weight yarn in a variety of colors from my stash with a size H / 5 mm hook.

Heart is 2 1/8 inches across widest point and 2” tall  from top of bumps to bottom point.

Notions

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Special Stitches

Chain 2 Picot: Ch 2, slip st in top of previous stitch working under the front loop and top side loop. If you need help with this technique visit my blog post: Don’t Fear the Picot.

Pattern Notes:

This heart motif begins with an Adjustable slip knot. If you need help with this technique check out my YouTube video.

Instructions

Rnd 1: Starting with an adjustable slip knot, ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook, tighten center, slip st to top of first sc. [7 sc]

Rnd 2:  Skip first st, 5 dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st, slip st to to of first sc of Rnd 1. [14 dc]

Rnd 3:  Sc in first st, 2 sc in each of next 4 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, ch-2 picot in previous sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in each of next 4 sts, (sc, slip st) in last st. [24 sc]

Fasten off and pull ending tail thru slip st and tighten. Weave in all ends.

Have a great time crocheting hearts and showing your love. Tag me on Instragram: @andee.graves so I can see how your hearts turned out and how you used them.

Interweave YarnFest for Fiber Fun in Colorado!

I’m so pleased to share that I am going to be teaching at the Interweave YarnFest this April. YarnFest runs from Wednesday April 20th – Saturday April 23rd. There are lots of exciting workshops and 3 of them will be taught by me.

Image of Red Violet and Denim color yarn balls with Interweave YarnFest logo covering a third of image on a light grey background. Official Instructor in dark grey large letters and below that in smaller letters "Take a look at what I'll be teaching April 20-23, 2022."

You can visit the website by clicking here, once you are on the home page the Green “Register” button takes you to the pages to view all the workshops being offered. You can sort thru the offerings using the drop down menus to tailor the view to what interests you most.

You can save $20 on a workshop if you register before midnight (ET) January 31, 2022!

If you don’t live in the Colorado Front Range, this is a great way to treat yourself to a visit to the area and some fun with yarn and fiber as well. YarnFest is held in the Loveland Embassy Suites Hotel, a great place to stay to enjoy the festival and Colorado.

The workshops I will be teaching are…

An image of the pin which is a little round base relief sheep front view with curly white fleece, simple brown face and ears and little round brown front legs on an abstract colorful background.
Needle Felt a Curly Sheep Pin
Wednesday April 20th 9a – 12p (Mtn Time)

This workshop is a great introduction to needle-felting, especially if you haven’t ever tried it out before. You will be making a fun little project that will introduce you the basics for making a successful needle felting project. You may end up with a whole little flock of sheep.

The workshop kit includes full color handout, 1 felting needle, all the fiber you’ll need to create the class project and pin backs. I’ll be bringing surfaces for students to work on, so you will only need to bring your excitement to learn.

Foreground is a red violet lacy snowflake, background is a collage of various crochet stitch charts.
Stitch Chart Bootcamp
Wednesday April 20th 1:30p – 4:30p (Mtn Time)

This workshop is especially for those that have been mystified by crochet stitch charts, or maybe you can figure them out better when they are part of a written pattern. The first time I ever encountered crochet stitch charts I was thrilled. I had struggled with written patterns for years, but stitch charts helped me bridge the gap and suddenly I was pattern following genius. Over the past 15 years I have collected an extensive library of stitch dictionaries, books and magazines that feature stitch charts. Many of these are in languages I can’t read, but the stitch charts allow me to decipher those patterns too.

Come join me in this workshop you will leave knowing exactly what the stitch charts are telling you. You will be crocheting various small projects in class working from stitch charts only as part of this “bootcamp”.

Don’t worry, I’m a really nice drill sergeant.

Main image is a photograph of a 3 dimensional white bunny sitting on it's back legs. Inside bunny's ear is pink with a pink nose and dark black shiny eye. Bunny is sitting on a multi-colored surface with a gray background.
Needle Felting in 3D
Thursday April 21st 9a – 12p (Mtn Time)

I have always loved to do sculpture. I’ve sculpted in clay, wood and stone; but needle felting is one of my very favorites. Sculpting in fiber is full of easy choices and wonderfully therapeutic.

In this workshop I’ll share all the tips and tricks for making 3D sculptures using needle felting. You will learn how to build shapes and join them together, different ways of creating underlying structures to support larger sculptures, refining your sculptures and how to embellish your sculptures with other materials.

The workshop kit includes a full-color handout, 2 different felting needles, all the fiber you’ll need to create the class projects, beads and other embellishment materials.

Click here to visit the Interweave YarnFest website and register to attend. Remember Register before midnight (Eastern) January 31, 2022 for $20 off one of your workshops. Further details are on the website.

Lots of New Designs

As many of you have noticed the blog has been rather quiet the past couple of months. Fortunately I had signed up to do some hops and tours with other designer friends or I may not have posted anything at all.

What have I been doing instead of blogging you may ask? I’ve been working on a bunch of freelance designs for magazines. I’ve been designing a number of pieces for “Crochet World”, “Crochet! Magazine” and “ILikeCrochet.com”.

White sofa with 2 pillows in corner. 1 pillow is solid cream color with 3 textured diamond shapes showing. Second pillow in front is all textured with cream color square in center surrounded by squares of dark gray, taupe, dark gray and cream.

Plenty of Clusters Pillow Set in the August 2021 issue of Crochet World. This is a pattern for 2 different square pillows that are covered with texture using my favorite textural stitch; the cluster bobble. I’ve been playing with cluster bobbles a lot lately, so you’ll be seeing them in my freelance patterns and my indie pattern line over the next 6 months.

Background is a white brick wall with a white lap and candle in left corner. Foreground is a white sofa with a red square pillow sitting on top of a green textured blanket on the seat of sofa. In center of image and in front of red pillow is a round white pillow with a textured round bright green circle topped by a a red 3d bow creating a Christmas wreath on the pillow.

Jolly Wreath Pillow in the Fall 2021 Crochet World: Have a Happy Crochet Christmas special issue. More bobbles for nubbly wreath on a cuddly round pillow to decorate for Christmastime in your home.

Black model with long wavy hair wearing a light aqua colored jacket with her hands pulled up near the base of her neck. On her hands are white fingerless mitts with thumb gussets. Mitts have a simple ribbed textured pattern running lengthwise.

Falling Snow Fingerless Mitts in the Autumn 2021 Crochet! Quick and Easy Crochet special issue. Do you need a quick gift for the holidays? These are the perfect project. Worked with just 1 skein of Berroco “Ultra Wool Chunky”, you can finish a pair in just a couple hours.

Caucasian model with should length brown hair and a dark green long sleeve shirt looking down Around her neck is golden yellow lacy cowl with points along the bottom edge.

The One Skein Mathilde Cowl in the August 2021 issue of ILikeCrochet.com online magazine. This fun cowl has lace points on one side. As the name suggests it uses just one skein of Berroco Ultra Wool worsted weight, so it is a quick project to work up. You can make it in all your favorite colors.

Lovely Lace Ponchette in the Winter 2021 issue of Crochet! Magazine. Designed in one of my favorite yarns, Berroco “Folio”. This is a super soft yarn with great warmth, so this lacy layer is perfect for a cozy cover-up as the temperatures drop.

Glacier Wrap in the December 2021 issue of Crochet World magazine. Another fun lacy pattern that uses cluster stitches for visual texture. Worked from the center out both ends are finished with a pretty pointed border.

If you missed these issues when they were on the newsstand you can get back issues on the Annie’s Website or on the ILikeCrochet.com website.

I have more freelance designs that will be coming out over the next 9 months, so keep an eye out here on the blog for me to share about those as well as some new designs in my indie pattern line.

Touch of Love Afghan Square Pattern

I have my annual afghan square pattern for you all to enjoy in celebration of my birthday. It is also Square #21 of the 2021 Moogly Afghan CAL. This is the “Touch of Love Afghan Square” and I’ve shown it in the above photo in 3 different color styles. The pattern does not include instructions on changing colors, I’ve left that decision to you. I have included information on how much yarn of each color I needed for the 3 samples I made.

Sample 1 is a single color that lets the texture of the stitches be the star.

Sample 2 uses accent color changes with the hearts in a solid color.

Sample 3 uses color changes on each bobble stitch round to create additional texture and really makes the hearts pop out. When I worked with the 2 colors in the center heart square I didn’t cut my yarn between color changes. Instead I pulled a loop of the next color up through the slip stitch that joined the previous color. I tightened the slip stitch, then pulled up a long loop of the previous color and put a locking stitch marker in it to keep the loop from being lost. After working the new color round I used the same method to switch back to my previous color. There is a little “holding your mouth just right” with this method, but it is well worth saving yourself having to weave in a bunch of ends when you finish the square.

Tamara’s version of my square is shown in the photo above. She chose to change colors at the same points I did for my Sample 2 of the square. You can read about how she worked the square and see the other wonderful squares in this year’s CAL by visiting the Moogly Blog.

Typically when working bobble textures on a project I design it in a graph with single crochets as the background. I wanted a softer fabric for this afghan square, so I used a linen stitch as the background. This took a little experimenting to get the balance for the fabric to have drape and the bobbles to “pop”. I hope you’ll be as happy with the result as I am.

Pattern is available here in text form and also available for purchase as an Ad-free PDF that includes stitch charts for the entire block in my Ravelry Shop.

Touch of Love Afghan Square

Designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size:  12” square

Materials:

Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love”, 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m)

Sample 1

  • #1780 Sweet Pink – Rnds 1 – 21  (used 80.5 g / 151 yds)

Sample 2

  • #1780 Sweet Pink – Rnds 1-2 & 18  (used 6.2 g / 12 yds)
  • #1720 Blush – Rnds 3-17  (used 52.5 g / 99 yds)
  • #1538 Lilac – Rnds 19 & 21  (used 13.9 g / 26 yds)
  • #1101 Eggshell – Rnd 20  (used 8.9 g / 17 yds)

Sample 3

  • #1720 Blush – Rnds 1-3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17-18  (used 22.8 g / 43 yds)
  • #1538 Lilac – Rnds 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 & 20  (used 44.8 g / 84 yds)
  • #1780 Sweet Pink – Rnd 19  (used 7.8 g / 15 yds)
  • #1101 Eggshell – Rnd 21  (used 6.1 g / 12 yds)

Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge

Notions

Yarn/tapestry needle

Stitch markers

Gauge

First 7 rounds of pattern = 4” across square

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.

(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.

(PM) Place Marker

(3dcCL) 3 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO pull thru remaining 4 loops on hook.

(4dcCL) 4 double crochet cluster st: (YO, insert hook in indicated st or sp, YO pull up a loop, YO pull thru 2 loops on hook) 4 times, YO pull thru remaining 5 loops on hook.

(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

Pattern Notes:

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook. (Video tutorial)

Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.

Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. Overall counts of stitches along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count.

In Round 19 and 20 the V-stitches are started with a chainless single crochet and 3 chains as the first double crochet and ch-1 of the V-stitch. The rounds are joined with a slip stitch to the 2nd chain of that first ch-3.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 2, (sc, ch 2) 4 times in 2nd chain from hook, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd. PM in each ch-2 sp. [4 sc, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn [(sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, slip st to join to first sc of Rnd. [8 sc, 4 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp]

Rnd 3 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to join to first sc of Rnd. [12 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {5 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 4 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move up st marker to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [4 4dcCL, 16 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {7 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [20 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {9 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 6 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp,* ch 1, skip 1 next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, Rep from * to * once, 3dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 4 3dcCL, 24 sc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {11 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, {sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd.  [28 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {13 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 8 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times,  sl st to first sc of Rnd.  [8 4dcCL, 8 3dcCL, 32 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {15 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [52 sc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {17 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 10 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next 2 sts/sps, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next 2 sts/sps, ch 1, skip 1 next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 8 3dcCL, 48 sc, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {19 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd.  [60 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {21 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 12 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 4dcCL in next st, {sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st} 2 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 2 times, 4dcCL in next st, sc in next st, 3dcCL in next st, sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [8 4dcCL, 12 3dcCL, 48 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp] {23 sts btwn ch-2 sps}

Rnds 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 6 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st/sp} 5 times, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd.  [52 sc, 48 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {25 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 14 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*{sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dcCL in next st} 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, 4dcCL in next st,* {sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip 1 next st} 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, 4dcCL in next st, Rep from * to * once] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [12 4dcCL, 16 3dcCL, 56 sc, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {27 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 15 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 5 sts, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [76 sc, 40 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {29 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 16 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [*sc in next 2 st/sp, {4dcCL in next st, sc in next st} 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp,* {ch 1, skip 1 next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip 1 st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 sp} 3 times, ch 1, skip next st, Rep from * to * once, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd. [16 4dcCL, 72 sc, 36 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {31 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 17 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [{sc in next st/sp, ch 1, skip next st} 8 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, {ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st/sp} 7 times, ch 1, skip next st] 4 times, sl st to first sc of Rnd.  [68 sc, 64 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 sp {33 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 18 (WS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st/sp until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. [140 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {35 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 19 (RS): Turn, (sc, ch 3, dc) in first st {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in next st*, Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts remain un-worked, skip last 2 sts, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch-3. [52 V-sts, 4 ch-2 sp {13 V- sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 20 (WS): Ch 1, turn, skip next st, (sc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-1 sp {counts as first V-st of Rnd}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in next st,* Rep from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in marked ch-2 sp,  move st marker to ch-2 sp just made] 4 times, Rep from * to * until 2 sts remain un-worked, skip last 2 sts, sl st to 2nd ch of first ch-3. [52 V-sts, 8 dc, 4 ch-2 sp {13 V- sts & 2 dc btwn ch-2 sps}]

Rnd 21 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in marked ch-2 sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each remaining st or sp until reach start of Rnd, slip st to first sc of Rnd. Fasten off. [172 sc, 4 ch-2 sp {43 sts btwn ch-2 sps}]

Finishing

Weave in tails and block.