Find Your Tribe

We are starting into the last week of March and the end of National Crochet Month, though it’s always time to celebrate crochet for me. One of the best ways to celebrate is to find a tribe of fellow crochet and yarn enthusiasts to gather with. I spend a lot of time with my group at Longmont Yarn Shoppe “Casual Crochet”. We meet each month on the first and third Wednesday of the month (and the 5th Wednesday if the month has five).

Last week we got together and we had some fun celebrating the end of NatCroMo. We had a lovely spread of snacks and drinks. Gail, the owner of Longmont Yarn Shoppe, treated us to these goodies. The core of our group, including myself, have been gathering together to crochet and learn from each other for at least 8 years now. Might actually be longer, I’ve sort of lost track of when exactly we started getting together.

I even brought in my latest big crochet hook. This hook is 31 mm in diameter (approximately 1.22 inches) and is a bit of a workout to crochet with. The smaller hook in the photo is a Clover Amour P/Q 15mm. Big difference in size between the 2.

Karen was the only one that was game for trying it out though. We had a lot of fun crocheting and laughing.

I am planning on working the 2 balls of Bernat Blanket Extra Thick I got to test out the hook into a lapghan. I picked a simple single crochet rectangle for the pattern as I plan on putting this on my lap when my cat wants to sit with me. Otherwise his claws get a bit pokey.

That was the second large hook I made this month. The first is hanging in the shop window and is even larger.

It was made from a 2 inch diameter pine dowel and was quite the workout to carve. The small hook in the picture with the dowel is the same in the photo further up with the big hook. I’ll be making a paper mache version of this giant hook after we take it out of the window. That way the shop can have one for display that isn’t quite so heavy. Seriously, this hook is like a baseball bat.

I hope you all have a great start to your last week of NatCroMo 2024. I’ll have a few more blog posts for you before April rolls around.

Happiness in a Circle

If you didn’t know, today is Pi-Day. For those of you that are new to visiting my blog I am a bit of a geek. I use geometry in my designing process all the time, but my favorite geometrical shapes are circles.

This blog post contains affiliate links, purchases through these links help support me without additional cost to you.

For those of you uncertain what Pi is and how it relates to circles…it is a mathematical constant that is the ratio of a circle’s circumference to its diameter, approximately equal to 3.14159. It also appears in many formulae across mathematics and physics. For most uses the abbreviated version of 3.14 is more than enough. March 14 is written as 3/14 for most of us here in the US, so some of us geeky souls like to refer to today as Pi-Day.

I have been playing with some circles lately, I made this fun little pouch as an experiment. It is still a work in progress, but so far I like what I’ve come up with. This was just 2 flat circles worked in 5 rounds of double crochet, I then crocheted them together and added a Romanian Cord to create a little wearable pocket for my phone and a few odds and ends when I am running around the house. The crochet hook is to give you a feel for the size of the pouch.

If you are wondering about how to get your flat circles as round as mine you can check out my post about Crocheting Really Round Circles here. I get very detailed in that post about crocheting flat circles and keeping their edges round.

If you are more interested in using Pi to crochet hats that fit the person they are made for, check out my Perfect Fit Crocheted Hat pattern. It is basically my Perfect Fit Crochet Hat class in a pattern. Everything you need to know for adjusting the size of your hat for fit and for the yarn you are using. You don’t even need to be a wizard at math, because I have some easy visual cheats included in the pattern. Once you have worked through the pattern you will understand how to adjust any crown-down constructed hat to fit your yarn and whomever you are making the hat for.

I recently purchased some 24 inch diameter floral hoops to use for creating some crochet art. The first piece I have been making is fairly free-form, so math hasn’t been as much help in this project. This is just the start of it. Once the hoop is filled in and the crochet open work is anchored to it, I’ll be adding crochet pieces to the foreground to make a fun little scene. The whole thing is currently anchored to my work surface so that I can stretch it as I go.

I do have some additional pieces planned that will involve more math as I fill in the hoop. I’ll share more images as these projects progress.

I bought my hoops on Amazon and am very happy with the quality of what I received. You can check them out by clicking here. These hoops are strong and well shaped without any distortion from shipping. They have them in variety of sizes, so I may be ordering some of the smaller ones for making framed snowflakes in the fall. The 24″ diameter ones were the largest offered on that product listing.

There’s No Place like Gnome

Happy National Crochet Month my friends! March has started off with a bang for me. I”m helping out with all sorts of fun stuff at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe and will be sharing more about that. Suffice to say that I’ve been so busy that I didn’t get a chance until today to do my first post of March to celebrate NatCroMo.

3 Colorful Crocheted Gnomes on a Gray background. Front Gnome had yellow body, gray beard and orange hat with floppy brim. Middle Gnome has bright blue body, white beard and magenta hat with small brim. Last Gnome has orange body with arms up in air, cream beard and green hat with small brim.

First of all say hello to my newest design, this is my “Cute Lil Gnome” pattern. This fun amigurumi is made using small bits of worsted weight yarn. Approximate yardage for each of the 4 pieces are: body -14 yards, Hat – 8.5 yards, Nose – 2 yards, and Beard – 3.5 yards.

Gnome held in hand with gray background. Gnome body is bright blue with a white beard, taupe nose and magenta hat. Hat has small brim.

I’ve been having fun making these little gnomes from various weights of yarn. The worsted weight gnomes are worked with Berroco Ultra Wool using a H (5mm) size hook and are 4.5 inches (10.6 cm) tall.

All my current crop of gnomes were having a little party with the Luv Bug at the shop on March 1st. The majority of the gnomes were made with Berroco Ultra Wool. The tiny one was made with KFI Collections “Teenie Weenie Wool”. The big one in pastel colors was made with some discontinued Lion Brand “Jiffy” that I had in my stash.

Crocheted toys, different sizes of gnomes surrounding a large Luvbug.

The big Gnome and Luv Bug are being crochet mascots at the Longmont Yarn Shoppe, so if you are in the area stop by and get your photo taken with them. We are also looking for suggestions for a name for the Gnome. If you stop in with a finished crochet project to get your photo taken at the shop, you can get a cute little butterfly or sheep stitch marker and enter the shop drawing to win an awesome product prize at the end of NatCroMo.

I designed this project so you only have to sew one seam. The hat is worked top down with the nose and beard crocheted at the end of the hat. The body is worked bottom up with the arms crocheted along the way. You fasten off the body with a long tail and use it to sew the body to the hat/head. A couple of fancy cluster stitches make the nose and hands, post stitches create the first round of the hat brim, but the rest of the project is single crochet, slip stitches and chain stitches.

The pattern currently has written instructions with some clarifying photo tutorials and 1 stitch chart. I’ll be updating the pattern at the end of March with stitch charts for all the parts and more photo tutorials. Once it is updated the price will go up. If you purchase your pattern now at the lower price, you will get the updated version for no additional cost when it is available.

Purchase the “Cute Lil Gnome” pattern here on Ravelry.

Make sure to check back regularly this month as I reveal more new patterns and all the creative ways I will be celebrating crochet with my local crochet community.

And So it Begins – 2024

I’ve been quiet on the blog since October, and now we are moving into another new year. That means a lot of you may be making new year’s resolutions. I tend to do that as well, though this year my nibling Lynnie posted about making silly or fun resolutions. I think that is a very good idea.

So my silly/fun resolutions for 2024 are:

Wear more sparkles. I love sparkly stuff. Glitter gets everywhere, so I am always looking for ways to have sparkle without spreading glitter from one end of the house to another. I ordered some fun sparkly hair barrettes and headbands today and I’m going to be wearing them every week. I’m also on the hunt for some sparkly fabrics (that don’t glitter bomb my house) to make some tops and accessories to use everyday.

This is my affiliate link to purchase the headbands, if you use it you support me without it costing you anything extra.

Watch funny movies every week. Everyone needs to laugh, so I’m letting myself do that regularly. It’s easy to get bogged down in all the serious stuff happening in the world and I’ll still care and act on that. But at least once a week I will renew my soul by watching something that makes me take a lighter look at life.

Read in my hammock chair every week. During the pandemic shutdown I got this awesome hammock chair and it was a great comfort to me. Not sure of the physiology of why it comforts me so much, but hanging out in it for an hour or two definitely calms and comforts me. I haven’t used it as much the past year or so, and I want to change that. I even have a big stand for it so I can use it indoors when the weather isn’t conducive to being outdoors.

I hope you can set some silly or fun resolutions for yourself as well. Wishing everyone a Happy and Healthy New Year.

Spiraling into October!

It’s October and it’s definitely Autumn up here on my mountain. Most of our aspen trees have dropped their leaves, we have had a few traces of snow as well. I am loving the cooler temperatures. I’m really not cut out for super hot days and we had a lot of those this past couple of months. October has always been a favorite month for me because I love autumn, but it is also my Birthday this month.

Pile of crocheted spirals with a variety of colors, size of stitches, and number of arms.

It is a very special birthday this year as I am celebrating my 6th decade traveling around our sun. I wanted to do some extra fun things to celebrate with my marvelous readers and decided this month is going to be all about the Spirals! If you have been following my blog you already know that I have an abiding fondness for crocheting circles and spirals. Working in the round just makes me very happy.

I have been planning for this month all summer. Starting next week I’ll finally be able to share some fun new designs that have been in the top secret drawer all summer. But right now let’s take a quick look at some of my flat spiral designs of the past (just in case you missed them the first time).

My early design experiments with spirals involved working continuous rounds then working surface crochet to emphasize the spiral. The first 2 patterns listed below used this technique.

Round flat crocheted yellow circle toy with bright green spiral on yellow. Small bright green crocheted balls spaced along outside of yellow circle as hands and feet. Round green crocheted head with little round nose and yellow eyes. Orange embroidered mouth.

“Flat Fuzzy Friend” is available on the ‘Crochet Uncut’ website as a free pattern. This is a great lovey for a little one or even a fun whimsical gift for an older child. This pattern was published in 2010.

Burgundy color lop-sided heart with light pink spiral in center.

“Spiral in a Heart” is available here on my blog as a free pattern and makes a fun little embellishment. I like to make these to decorate hats and gloves for loved ones. They are also really cute on cuddle blankets. This pattern was published in 2011

I began to get more into the math of circles worked in the round and that that gave me the idea to play with spirals that had more than 1 arm. Once I started down this path I started having way too much fun. Since then I have continued to play with different height of stitches and number of arms to create designs that incorporate spirals.

4 armed spiral crocheted in 4 colors (gold, bright green, orange, dark green) framed with brown and original 4 colors to make a square.

“Whirlwind Afghan Square” this was my first afghan square for the Moogly CAL in 2015. You can find the free pattern for this square here on my blog. {Not the most exciting photo I’ve ever taken, but you get the idea.} I also have a video and additional blog posts on working this square.

Yellow and Hot Pink crocheted spiral bordered with bright green, white, yellow and hot pink mitered corners to create square.

“Dizzy Corner Afghan Square” this square was part of the 2017 Moogly CAL the pattern is available here on my blog for free. This post includes a detailed photo tutorial on crocheting the spiral circle.

Cream colored crochet scarf with 3 armed blue tones spirals on each end.

“Whirling Ends Scarf” this fun scarf pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry shop. The pattern includes detailed photo tutorials and stitch charts for both the spirals and the body of the scarf. It was part of the Stitch Makers Virtual Crochet Conference in September 2019.

“Spirals and Lace Afghan Square” this was my square for the 2019 Moogly CAL. The free version of the pattern is available here on my blog with text and photos, or you can purchase the PDF version in my Ravelry shop with 7 full color pages that include detailed stitch charts for each element.

These are just a short review of some of the flat spiral designs I’ve created over the years. Next week we will have a couple of new designs to add to this list, so be sure to stop by again.

Floating Star Afghan Block Pattern

Happy Birthday to me! Again! That means it is time for an Afghan Block pattern in celebration of another trip around the sun! My block is #21 in the 2022 Moogly Afghan CAL too. You can find out more about the CAL and the links to the other blocks over on Mooglyblog.com. Check out what Tamara did with my block on her post about Block #21.

I had a lot of fun creating this block, especially since I was doing my favorite style of design where I go from 1 shape to another. In this block that is Round to Square. I’ve labeled the different parts of the pattern to help you stay on track when working your square.

Floating Star Afghan Block

designed by Andee Graves

Skill level:       Intermediate

Finished Size:  12” square

Materials:

Yarn – Worsted weight yarn – Sample uses Red Heart “With Love” 100% Acrylic (7 oz/198 g, 370 yds/338 m),

Color A: #1304 Santorini – Rnds 1-3, 13-14 (used 18.1 g / 34 yds)

Color B: #1502 Iced Aqua – Rnds 4-5, 8-12 (used 29.4 g / 55 yds)

Color C: #1101 Eggshell – Rnds 6 -7 (used 9.9 g / 18 yds)

Hook – J / 6mm or size needed to meet gauge

Notions Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge First 3.5 rounds of pattern = 4” across diameter

Abbreviations/Special Stitches

(RS) Right Side: The side that will be the textured side of the fabric.

(WS) Wrong Side: The side that will be the flat side of the fabric.

(PM) Place Marker

(sl st) Joining slip st: Insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop thru place and loop on hook, continue to pull up on working loop until original loop is tight.

(V-st) V-stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Ch 3 picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop and top side loop of previous stitch, slip stitch tightly.

(Fan) Pointed Fan Stitch: (3 dc, ch 3 picot, 3 dc) in indicated st or sp.

(Standing dc) Standing double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, [YO, pull thru 2 loops] 2 times.

(Standing hdc) Standing half double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook in indicated place, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull thru all 3 loops on hook.

(Standing BPdc) Standing Back Post double crochet: Start with a slip knot loop on hook, hold in place and YO, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double stitch.

(BPTr) Back Post Treble: YO twice, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard treble stitch.

(BPdc) Back Post double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard double crochet stitch.

(BPhdc) Back Post half double crochet: YO once, insert hook to one side of indicated stitch post from back to front, then to opposite side of post from front to back, YO, pull up a loop, complete like a standard half double crochet stitch.

Pattern Notes:

Start square with an adjustable slip knot. Beginning tail tightens the loop on the hook.

Keep tails on wrong side of square as you work to help track which is wrong side and right side.

All rounds are joined with a tight slip stitch to the indicated stitch or chain.

Stitch counts at the end of each round are shown in italicized brackets at end. After Rnd 8, stitch counts along each side are shown in italicized curly brackets after round count and do not include corner chain spaces.

Instructions

Rnd 1 (RS): Starting with adjustable slip knot, ch 4 {counts as center and first dc}, 11 dc in 4th chain from hook, join {see pattern notes} to top of beg ch. [12 dc]

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 4 {counts as first dc and ch-1 sp}, [dc in next st, ch 1] 11 times, join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4.  [12 dc, 12 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 3 (RS): (sl st, ch 3 {counts as first dc}, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, [3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 11 times, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color A. [36 dc]

Rnd 4 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing dc in 2nd dc of a 3 dc group, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st},  [ch 1, skip 2 sts, V-st in next st] 11 times, ch 1, join to first dc of rnd. [12 V-st, 12 ch-1 sp]

Rnd 5 (RS): Ch 3 {counts as first dc}, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st, [2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in first dc of next V-st, dc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, dc in 2nd dc of same V-st] 11 times, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, join to top of first ch-3. Fasten off Color B [60 dc]

Rnd 6 (RS): Attach Color C with Standing dc in center dc that was worked in a ch-1 sp of Rnd 4 V-st, (ch 1, dc) in same st {counts as first V-st}, [*skip 2 sts, V-st in sp before next dc, skip 2 sts,* V-st in next dc] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first dc of rnd. [24 V-sts]

Rnd 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp of first V-st, [*skip 2 sts, Fan in ch-1 sp of next V-st, skip 2 sts,* sc in ch-1 sp of next V-st] 11 times, Rep from * to * once, join to first sc of rnd. Fasten off Color C. [12 Fans, 12 sc]

Round to Square

Rnd 8 (RS): Attach Color B with Standing BPdc around post of first dc of a Fan, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,

[ch 1, *skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc next st, BPTr next st, skip next sc, BPTr next st, BPdc next st, BPhdc next st,* ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, BPdc each of next 2 sts, BPhdc next st] 3 times, ch 1, Rep * to * once, ch 3, Rep * to * once, ch 1, skip picot, BPhdc next st, BPdc each of next 2 sts, skip next sc, join to first BPdc of rnd.  PM in ch-3 sps to mark 4 corners. [16 BPTr, 32 BPdc, 24 BPhdc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 sp]

Rnd 9 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-3 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, dc in each of next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, loose sl st in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, join to first sc of rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 48 sc, 8 loose sl st, 8 hdc, 32 dc] {24 sts per side}

Rnd 10 (RS): Ch 1, [sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in next st of Rnd 9, hdc in each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 5 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made,

dc in each of next 5 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp of Rnd 8, sc in each of next 3 sts of Rnd 9] 4 times, join to first sc of Rnd. [4 ch-2 sps, 40 sc, 16 hdc, 56 dc]  {28 sts per side}

Square Rounds to 12”

Rnd 11 (WS): Turn, (sc, ch 1) in first st {counts as first hdc}, [hdc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in marked ch sp, move st marker up to ch-1 sp just made] 4 times, hdc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join to first hdc.  [120 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {30 sts per side}

Rnd 12 (RS): Ch 1, turn, [sc in each st until reach marked corner ch sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in marked ch sp, remove st marker] 4 times, sc in each st back to beg of Rnd, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off Color B. [128 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {32 sts per side}

Rnd 13 (WS): With WS facing attach Color A with Standing hdc to any st on side, Rep Rnd 11. [136 hdc, 4 ch-1 sp] {34 sts per side}

Rnd 14 (RS): Rep Rnd 12. Fasten off.  [144 sc, 4 ch-1 sp] {36 sts per side}

Finishing

Weave in tails and block. When pinning out to block it is helpful to pin points of star to lay flat and then gently steam to make them lay down on the surface of the block.

For those of you that may be wondering why the blog has been so quiet, I have been a busy little bee working on lots of freelance designs for various publications. I’ll share more about those designs once they are published. I’ve also been working away on developing more classes to teach at local shops, fiber festivals and hopefully online soon.

Thanks for stopping by.

Something New in Crochet is Coming…

Stitch Makers Live 2019 is coming soon and I’m so excited to be a part of it!

What is Stitch Makers Live?

Stitch Makers Live is a 3-day virtual event during which over 10 crochet designers and teachers (including me) are going to spend time with you – right on Facebook. 16 crochet sessions LIVE with industry experts!

Each class comes with a BONUS crochet pattern – to help you master those skills.

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

From September 19th thru September 21st , you can participate in every one of these classes. But that’s not all!

There’s even a virtual party in the evening after the last day is over!

PLUS, you’ll get full access to the recordings in the group for ONE FULL YEAR!

And YOU are invited! Click here to register to join the fun..

These are the industry professionals that will be joining me

·        Edie Eckman

·        Tamara Kelly of Moogly

·        Mary Beth Temple of Hooked For Life Publishing

·        Alexis Middleton of Persia Lou

·        Marie Segares of Underground Crafter

·        Jessie Rayot of Jessie At Home

·        Pia Thadani of Stitches ‘N’ Scraps

·        Linda Dean of Linda Dean Crochet

·        Julie Desjardins of ACCROchet

·        Courtney Whitehead of Creations by Courtney

These experts are passionate about crochet, and excited to share their knowledge with you. Whether your goal is to improve your skills in hat making, gather the bravery to begin your first sweater, or dive into short rows, our goal is to help you. The teachers and designers were handpicked to bring you the best instructors on a variety of crochet topics.

This is the first CROCHET ONLY online summit we know about – and we’re excited to launch it with you on board! 

Take advantage of Early Bird pricing and purchase your tickets before midnight eastern on Monday, September 2nd. After that tickets will go up to full price! 

So go ahead, register for Stitch Makers Live today!

I can’t wait to see you there!

Thinking about Christmas Crafting

Can you believe it is July already? Seems like once again the year has been moving way too fast. My oldest is preparing for a school trip to Switzerland at the same time I am preparing for my trip at the CGOA Chain Link Conference.

We took a break from travel prep to celebrate the 4th of July by attending the fireworks show in Estes Park. The weather was looking a bit iffy a couple hours before the show started, but cleared up in plenty of time. Last year we attended the show in Estes Park and it was very chilly, so this year we brought lots of blankets and our fleece jackets.

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

With July here it is time to make good on the promise I made myself last Christmas. I promised to do better about planning for my crocheted and other handmade gifts for 2019. With that in mind, I am going to take you all along with me as I work on some Christmas in July projects.

Most of my readers are currently in the midst of some of the hottest weeks of summer. That means we need crochet projects that don’t take up a lot of room on our laps to make us too warm. Some of us are traveling too, so small and portable is extra handy.

My go-to project when I want something small and quick to crochet are hats. They can be super easy or involved with complex stitch patterns. I really love to make plain solid color hats that can be the base for fun embellishment. They are also a very popular gift in my household, I skipped doing them one year and there was a loud protest.

Simple Double Crochet Hat

I have a free hat pattern here on the blog for a simple top-down double crochet hat. This hat is great for using a colorful yarn, or one of the gradient color changing yarns. This hat is an easy skill level, so even if you are just starting out crocheting you can complete it.

Whirlwind Hat

If you prefer a more challenging hat my Whirlwind Hat is another free pattern here on the blog. This is a perfect hat for using up smaller balls of yarn in your stash. It takes only 28 yards of worsted weight yarn for 3 of the colors and 46 yards for the color that will go into your brim.

Spiraling Stripes Hat

If you want to work a hat that uses only a 2-arm spiral you might like my Spiraling Stripes Hat, the pattern is available for purchase in my Ravelry shop. The pattern includes a detailed stitch chart of the crown and a step by step photo tutorial.

The fun thing about a 2-arm spiral is that the spiral is more distinct. I used a combination of colorful and semi-solid tonal hand-dyed yarn to really bring out the spiral in the project I made for this pattern. You could even work this hat as a gift for a sports fan and use the team colors.

Spiraling Crosses Hat

My Spiraling Crosses Hat makes use of textured stitches. It is a project using the staggered X-st in the round, the stitches create subtle spiraling ridges around the hat. The taller stitches also allow you to crochet it up quickly, ideal for a last minute gift. The pattern includes a stitch chart to help you understand how to work the increases.

Perfect Fit Crocheted Hat

If you are looking for a pattern that will help you understand how to adjust a crown-down hat to get the right size for your giftee, then my Perfect Fit Crocheted Hat pattern is worth the investment. It is like having a crochet class with me at a fraction of the cost. The best thing about this pattern is you can use any weight yarn to get a hat that is just the size you want. The tips for sizing a hat can also be applied to other crown-down hat patterns you might want to adjust.

Mountain Top Beanie

My very favorite hat design is my Mountain Top Beanie. It is a little more challenging to crochet, but the resulting fabric is well worth it. I include a stitch chart in the pattern that will help you with increases and when to turn the rounds. The pattern is available in my Ravelry Shop.

You want to make sure you have some good stitch markers handy when working on hats. They can help you keep track of your increases and the end of your rounds.

Most of my favorite stitch markers are made by the Clover Company. They make all of their products with a durable plastic that doesn’t break easily and has just enough “give” to be flexible. The newest stitch markers they have out “Quick Locking Stitch Markers”, come in a set that has 3 different sizes, 6 different colors and a nifty storage container. If you can’t find them in your local shops, click on the photo above and it will take you to them on Amazon.

If you prefer a stitch marker that doesn’t lock, I have found these Split Ring markers to work well. The little point at the opening makes them easy to slide onto your stitches. I don’t recommend using this style of marker if you are going to be pulling your project in and out of a bag. They will work their way out of your stitches. But if you are sitting and working in the same spot, and your project will only be disturbed when you pick it up, then they can be a great choice. Especially if you are a speedy crocheter.

Floating Diamonds Shawlette

I’m excited to be participating in the 2019 Celebrate Mom Blog Hop hosted by Pattern Paradise! Each day in May, a different crochet designer will be featured and share a new free pattern with you! There are lots of fun prizes too, so come join the fun! For the list of designers and all the details, go to this post => 2019 Celebrate Mom Blog Hop & Giveaway

My kids and I have a daily tradition that we start and end our days with a hug. But what do you do when your mom (or other dear friends) are far away? You can make them this lovely shawlette that can be a hug for the times you are out of arms reach.

It uses just one ball of Berroco’s “ReMix Light” yarn. Which is a perfect weight and fiber mix for a summer wearable. The open mesh and lace work also make for a very breathable fabric.

This is a little bit more challenging crochet project as you need to keep track of the changes for the diamond pattern. It is definitely one of those projects where you want to check your count at the end of each row to be sure you didn’t add or miss a stitch.

Floating Diamonds Shawlette

Designed by Andee Graves / M2H Designs

Skill level:  Intermediate

Finished Size: 59” (149.9 cm) wide x 11” (27.9 cm) tall after blocking

Materials

Yarn: Berroco “Remix Light” 30% Nylon, 27% Cotton, 24% Acrylic, 10% Silk, 9% Linen (3.5 oz/100 g, 432 yd/400 m), 1 Ball of Color # 6977

Hook: 7 / 4.5 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Notions: Yarn/tapestry needle, Stitch markers

Gauge: In V-st pattern 16 stitches and 9 rows = 4” (10.16 cm)

Special Stitches or Abbreviations

PM – Place stitch marker

V-st – V Stitch: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated place

Pattern Notes

Shawl is worked top-down from a stacked rows foundation with a center increase point and decreases at ends of rows. Once body of shawl is finished, yarn is cut and rejoined at end of foundation to work edging along sides and bottom edge.

The majority of the body of this shawl is worked in staggered V-stitches. This means the 2 legs of the V-stitch are worked in the space between two V-stitches.

Instructions:

Foundation Rows

Row 1: Ch 2, sc in second ch from hook.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first dc.

Rows 4 – 157: Alternate repeating Rows 2 and 3 (ending with a Row 3). PM in Row 79. [78 “scallops”]

Shawl Body

Row 1: Ch 2, turn to work along flat side of foundation rows, slip st in side of first sc row, ch 3 {counts as dc}, *skip next dc row, V-st in next sc row*, Repeat from * to * until work in sc row before marked sc row, (V-st,  ch 2, V-st) in marked sc row, move st marker to ch-2 sp just made, Repeat from * to * until work in next to last sc row, skip last dc row, dc in final sc row. [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 78 V-sts]

The marked ch-2 space is the increase point for the rest of the body of the shawl.

Row 2: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * until reach marked ch-2 sp, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, Repeat from * to * until 1 V-st is left in row, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 78 V-sts]

Rows 3-9: Repeat Row 2. Count at end of Row 9 – [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 78 V-sts]

Row 10: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 6 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 10, skip next 2 V-sts, Repeat from * to * 5 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 10, skip next 2 V-sts, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 10, skip next 2 V-sts, Repeat from * to * 5 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 10, skip next 2 V-sts, repeat from * to * 8 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 10 ch-10 sp, 68 V-sts]

Row 11: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 5 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in ch-10 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in ch-10 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st,  [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in ch-10 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to *4 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in ch-10 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 7 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 10 sc, 58 V-sts]

Row 12: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 4 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 6 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 30 sc, 48 V-sts]

Row 13: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 3 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 5 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 50 sc, 38 V-sts]

Row 14: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * 2 times, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, [V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once] 4 times, V-st in space before next V-st, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 5 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 70 sc, 28 V-sts]

Row 15: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, V-st in space before next V-st] 4 times, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, V-st in space before next V-st, [ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, V-st in space before next V-st] 4 times, ch 6, skip next V-st, sc in next ch-6 sp, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to* 3 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 90 sc, 18 V-sts]

Row 16: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 7 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 70 sc, 28 V-sts]

Row 17: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * 2 times, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * once] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 50 sc, 38 V-sts]

Row 18: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * 3 times, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 30 sc, 48 V-sts]

Row 19: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * 4 times, [V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 3 times] 4 times, V-st in next ch-6 sp, ch 6, skip next sc, sc in next sc, ch 6, skip next sc, V-st in next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 20 ch-6 sp, 10 sc, 58 V-sts]

Row 20: Ch 3 {counts as dc}, turn, skip first V-st, *V-st in space before next V-st, skip next V-st*, Repeat from * to * once, [V-st in first ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next sc, V-st in last ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times] 4 times, V-st in first ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next sc, V-st in last ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 5 times, (V-st, ch 2, V-st) in marked ch-2 sp, move st marker up to ch-2 sp just made, skip next V-st, repeat from * to * 5 times, [V-st in first ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next sc, V-st in last ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 4 times] 4 times, V-st in first ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next sc, V-st in last ch of next ch-6 sp, skip next V-st, Repeat from * to * 2 times, dc in top of previous row ch-3.  [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 68 V-sts]

Rows 21 – 23: Repeat Row 2. Fasten off at end of Row 23. [1 ch-2 sp, 2 dc, 68 V-sts]

Edging: With RS of foundation facing attach yarn with slip st in ch-2 at beginning of Row 1 {indicated by pink arrow in photo above}, working along side of Shawl body Rows, (ch 2, dc) in same ch-2 sp as slip st join, [(slip st, ch 2, dc) in top of next row] 22 times, slip st in last st at top of Row 23, turn to work along top of Row 23 stitches, ch 3, dc in first dc of first V-st, skip 2 sts, *[(slip st, ch 3, dc) in first dc of next V-st, skip 2 sts]* 33 times, (slip st, ch 3, dc) in marked ch-2 sp, remove st marker, Repeat from * to * 34 times, (slip st, ch 2, dc) in last dc of Row 23, turn to work along side of Shawl Body rows at last end, [(slip st, ch 2, dc) in top of next row] 22 times, slip st in sc at end of foundation rows,Fasten off. [23 small scallops at each end, 69 scallops along top of Row 23]

Finishing

Before weaving in ends, wet block work to open lace. Once shawlette has completely dried, weave in all loose ends.

The stitch markers in my project photos above are my favorite newest Clover stitch markers. They are light weight and come in a variety of colors and sizes. If you can’t find them locally you can click on the product photo below to find them on Amazon.com. This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

I hope you have a fun time crocheting this shawlette. If you make it and want to share photos with me of your finished project tag me on Instagram. You can follow me there using the icons at the top of the sidebar. Or just search for me as Andee.Graves.

Springtime Bunny

Easter is next weekend and I’ve always loved it as a celebration of Spring. Even though up here on the mountain it is usually still cold and even snowy, down in town there are signs of springtime everywhere. Trees getting green buds or even leaves, tulips and daffodils popping up and showing off their colors.

We will be keeping our eyes and ears open for the arrival of the first hummingbirds as the Easter bunny comes for a visit. We have already seen a few wild bunnies in our yard as they venture out of their warm burrows on the milder days.

Meanwhile I have a new fun coloring page for my readers. This bunny is celebrating springtime with his coat of flowers and greenery. You can download the full page PDF of the coloring page using the link below.

As a special treat for those of you preparing for the upcoming holiday I also have a card version of the bunny.

This page will print out with the bunny on half of a 8.5″ x 11″ page. Color your image then fold the paper into a 5″ x 8.5″ card. You can download the card coloring page PDF using the link below.

I hope you and your family have a wonderful Easter together.

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no additional cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

I colored the images in this post using my Chameleon Color Tones pencils. They are a densely pigmented pencil so even a light touch to the paper can give you beautiful color. If you can’t find them locally they are available online at Amazon.com. Click on the photo above to go straight to them.

If you prefer to color with markers, some of my favorites are the Staedtler Triplus Fineliners. If you can’t find them locally they are available on Amazon.com. Just click on the image above to go straight to them.